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Six_Shooter

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Six_Shooter last won the day on June 15 2014

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About Six_Shooter

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  • Birthday 02/24/1977

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    Ontario, Canada

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  1. For anyone that wondered what happened to this car, like I have been over the last few years, this project is no more. A member of another forum bought what was left of the car and it was ROUGH. He's using the few good parts as donor parts for his car. This is the most recent picture of it. lol
  2. *sigh*, my turbo L28 was not the current swap I was talking about, please read for detail. My current swap is a GM LX9 (3.5L V6) that is mated to a Nissan 300ZX TT trans, and a bunch of other parts all put together that were never intended to be, but no, I didn't do a swap. FWIW, I believe I'm the only person to swap this engine into an S30, and so therefore I had to pave my own way and was not able to buy mounts, or even follow what someone else had done. I simply mentioned my personal turbo L28 experience because you mention a turbo L28 swap. The only difference between the two is tha
  3. Right, this is not hard info to find, what I need are not friction disc external diameters, but measurements of the bolt circles, the major and minor diameters of the friction discs, pressure plate thickness, would be a bonus. Basically the engineering dimensions would be perfect. I plan to use this with a non Nissan Flywheel/engine, which is why I can't simply use the friction disc major diameters as knowing if the clutch will fit or not.
  4. See this is where you and I differ. I've never spent $3000 on an engine and transmission, because I shop around. I can get LSxs and (auto) trans (4L60E) around here all day for usually less than $1000 (CDN) (4.8/5.3 truck engines), if I wanted to go that route, which I never will. Some of those engines and transmissions even come with the ECM and harness. If I spend more than $2000 on making mounts and the EFI and fuel system to work with it, then I'm doing something VERY wrong. I don't buy race car parts for my street cars, I buy street car parts and most of the time they are either jun
  5. Ktm, I do all of my own work, always have. Also where did I say anything about LSx? I didn't. On top of that if i spent more than about $3k installing an LSx in my car, I'd very disappointed. I'll never install an LSx in any of my cars though, there are better engines for less money, they just have less cylinders.
  6. I agree, if you're spending 10K on most swaps, you're doing it wrong, or paying for someone else to do it and probably buying all new parts/crate engine. I'm not sure I've ever spent more than about $2K on a swap, including the engine, maybe $2.5K. That is of course, myself performing all labour, and I usually use less mainsteam engines, so they will cost less than the "it" engines.
  7. I assume you mean fuel level, since to mention tapping into the stock wires... No, there is no direct replacement from Auto Meter for the S30, however... People have used Ford ranged gauges with a couple resistors providing a volatge dividing network with sucess. I have used a GM 0-90 gauge, and it works almost exactly backwards to the Nissan range, so E is really F and visa-versa. I had intended to flip the sender around so that it would have worked correctly (E being E, etc), but never got around to it and went back to the original gauge.
  8. I ground off more than 1/8" IIRC. I basically ground down until I felt there was just enough material left to hold the clip, probably somewhere around 3/32 to 1/8" left.
  9. Take a look at the top of the trans, if there is a plate that is about 1" wide and 5 to 7" long, then it's a 4 speed, if not then it's trans tear down time. I've seen more than a few people assume that just because the trans was in a 280Z (2+2) that it is a 5-speed, when the 5 speed was an option and many had 4 speeds installed. The fact that it's harder to move the gear shift to the right to go into the reverse and possible 5th gate, makes me think that it's actually a 4 speed.
  10. The 240Zs have no less distance between the diff and the companion flange than 260 or 280Zs from what I have seen, and knowing that a majority of the suspension parts are interchangeable. Flipping cages and grinding the end of the axle gained between 1/4 to 5/16" on each axle. At full droop where the distance between the companion flanges and the diff is shortest, my driver side axles slides in with between 1/8 and 1/4" to spare, and the passenger side is a tight squeeze past the lip, but then I still need to pull the axle cup and companion flange together to mate them. My companion flange ad
  11. You might be able to do as I did and flip the outer CV cages along with some grinding of the end of the end of the shafts to get the clearance you need. As far as the concern with the CLSD itself, I can't tell you got sure, but any kid noise likely isn't good.
  12. I have been looking for a while now, but can't seem to locate anything that lists dimensions of the bolt patterns, clutch disc dimensions, inner and outer diameters of the friction materials, etc. I need to replace my clutch, and since the fitment of my clutch for my combo was not exactly ideal to start with, I'd like to find something better. For those that have a puzzled look on your face right now, I have a rather unique combination of engine, trans and flywheel happening. The engine is an LX9 (3.5L GM V6, aka a "3500"), a 3.1/3.4 flywheel from 1988 to 1994 F-body and a 1992 300ZX TT trans
  13. While there are no issues with oil and copper, I'd try and find some aluminum tube to make that transition. IIRC there are some "metal Supermarkets around, I believe that's the name. I think there is one located in Cambridge that might have some aluminum tubing. Alternatively, you could get some aluminum block, drill intersecting holes and weld that in place, that might also help provide an easy method of adding bracing to the pickup.
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