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PhilbertZ

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Posts posted by PhilbertZ

    Injector cooler on turbo motor

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    Thanks guys, I'll leave it off. Still in the learning curve on this fuel injection/tubo stuff and didn't want to have to chase a bad signal of some sort to the computer because the goofy thing wasn't there. It rarely gets 100 here and if it does, I'll drive the Benz, it has a/c : )

     

    Be sure to read the "EFI Bible":

    http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ectionbook.pdf

     

    Right click, choose "save as," and read it. It's for the 280 (S30-not S130) cars but is a great reference for the EFI system on our cars too. Helped me out a lot when diagnosing my smog issues. The FSM (on the site below) is fantastic too since it's model/year specific and has tons of ECU tests you can run with a simple OHMmeter.

     

     

    Also, this is a great reference:

    http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

    Injector cooler on turbo motor

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    I have not had any problems not running one. But some people do. You can run without it and the first time It vapor locks put it on so it wont happen again. It wont hurt anything it just may make it annoying if you do have problems.

     

     

    I think as long as you're not in Arizona in 100+ degree heat, you'll be fine running without this. I took mine out and am not missing it...several here have too. It's for vapor lock in the fuel rail I believe.

    Both Headlights out on '76 280Z: Fusible Links or Relay?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Guys,

     

    A friend at work recently got a 1976 280Z from his dad (original owner) and is coming across some gremlins here and there. I'm trying to help where I can but have a 1980 ZX and am learning as I go myself.

     

    I've done searches on this here and elsewhere online and looked through the FSM and Manual from Xenon's site.

     

    Problem: both his headlights suddenly don't work. All the fuses look fine.

     

    Where should he start?

    I'm thinking:

    1) check fusible links - same spot as S130, on the inside passenger fender right? I would recommend checking the links as well as thier connections for corrosion, and sanding/dielectric greasing for good measure.

    2) Check relays - where are they in the 280Z? Can't find that in the manual...

    3) Anything else I'm missing?

     

    Thanks!

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Take a look inside your old cat. You should be able to see right through it, with a nice honey-comb. If you can't see light, then it's clogged and will eat power, if there's just a straight-through hole, then most likely retarded timing or running rich burned it out. If it looks physically in tact, then it's likely just old and worn out, but not damaged.

     

     

    I can see light through it but it's opaque - cannot see an abjoect through it. It looks like there's a screen door mesh material inside, with lots of soot caked on, and some light, far on the other end.

     

    My truck's is kind of the same way, and I need to get that smogged soon too (87 4runner). Hmmm...maybe they're the same size and fitment - swapping would be a nice option for smog ;)

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by PhilbertZ
    accidentally hit "post" early...wasn't finished typing

    Thanks everyone - I finally PASSED today - with flying colors!

     

    As mentioned in this thread and others, these are the steps I took to get the car in proper EFI order:

     

    New parts:

    - Cat

    - O2 sensor

    - Wires

    - Plugs

    - Cap/Rotor

    - new fuel filter

     

    Work/tests Done:

    - valve adjustment

    - timing check (running stock timing marks)

    - Complete run of FSM ohmmeter ECU tests (thermotime switch failed)

    - Plugged Thermotime switch hose with sheared and smoothed bolt - just in case)

    - New BOSCH eletrical connectors on injectors, thermotime switch, engine temp sensor (also cleaned off all connections with emory board and treated with dieletric grease)

     

    Got the car really hot on a freeway cruise before the test and it passed with the following levels:

     

    HC (PPM):

    15 MPH: 210 (max allowed) 47 (actual on my car)

    25 MPH: 178 (max allowed) 11 (actual on my car)

    CO%:

    15 MPH: 1.35 (max allowed) 0.08 (actual on my car)

    25 MPH: 1.15 (max allowed) 0.01 (actual on my car)

     

    Amazing how they contrasted to the original 2 failed tests I had. I think the CAT I installed after the second failed test was the real difference maker.

    Now here's my question:

    Now that I've passed and seem to know what to do to keep it in "Green" form, shouild I put the OEM (likely very clogged) CAT back on until the next test? I've heard the aftermarket California cats clog up fast, and I really don't want to shell out another $265 on this. Are there any performance gains/losses when using the old clogged cat, or just running a straight pipe where the CAT was? Where would I get this done (straight pipe CAT delete) if that's a good option? I don't drive the car much - less than 4,000 miles a year, but want it to be fun when I do....

    Thanks everyone who has helped me on this project - really appreciate it!

    Oil on sparkplug

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Yes I left the injector in. I pulled the spark plug and cleaned it then put it back in and unplugged the electrical connector from the injector. (if injector is working properly then it shouldn't open or operate). Then disconnect the coil so the car wont start and turn it over a few times. Pull the plug again, if there is gas on the plug with the injector unplugged then its stuck. My next step was to replace the injector...

     

    Thanks - I tried this yesterday with my final barrage of tests before taking to smog (third time this past few months) and FINALLY passed - with flying colors this time.

     

    This site's been a wealth of knowledge for me in terms of learning about EFI - thanks everyone!

    Oil on sparkplug

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks but the issue is solved, it was fuel not oil, due to a stuck injector.

     

    glad you solved it!

     

    how do you test for a stuck injector? Is it visible to the eye when you remove it? Do you need to do anything to test it when you remove it? Can you test an injector without removing it?

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    If you are going through tail pipe testing, don't forget to be sure your ignition timing is at factory specs or even slightly retarded from that, you have a clean set of spark plugs in, plugs wires are also good/not too old. Poor ignition performance will cause subtle misfires, subtle enough you really can't hear them, but enough to fail smog tests. :wink:

     

    Typically the N/A Z cars run "noticeably" stronger with improved fuel mileage with the ignition advanced 5-7 degrees from the OE spec, but tends to kill the NoX when going through tail pipe testing. :wink:

     

     

    Thanks - I'll do that before I take it in. Plugs are newer (last 4,000 miles) but I'll get some new ones.

     

    So I'm clear, "advancing" the timing would mean, moving it from the factory spec 10-12 degrees BTDC to about 16-19 degrees before, correct?

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks BRAAP - that sounds easy enough to do.

     

    I think I'm going to take it in this weekend for my third smog attempt - I can't seem to think of anything else to change/test at this point, beyond what I've done in the past couple months (hopefully, adding the new cat since my second failed test will prove to have been the missing link).

     

    Thanks for your help guys - much appreciated!

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks guys - I actually have the EFI bible already in hand - was using it initially for my ECU tests (and to learn about EFI for the first time) before using the FSM for the tests. I must have missed the part about the cold start valve only workind during cranking - sorry! I didn't realize I could delete it as well- do you guys have recommendations on the best way to do this that looks "stock" so i would pass visual inspection? I could snip the wires close to the plug on the cold start valve I suppose...

     

    I've been researching plugs since Eric's last post and the site you provided now is perfect. Most of the sites I've visited reference using new plugs and running on WOT to best diagnose the engine - but the plugs in the link Eric posted seem to be well used ones that I could just pull now to diagnose - am I correct in that assumption?

     

    I really wish there were an easier way to diagnose CO and HC mix without having to get smogged - I've been fiddling with this issue since I failed smog 2 months ago and now my registration is expired - would be nice to have a means to check my work to see if what I'm doing is working or not - I've done/replaced since then:

    - Cat

    - O2 sensor

    - Wires

    - Cap/Rotor

    - valve adjust

    - timing check (running stock timing marks)

    - Complete run of FSM ohmmeter ECU tests (thermotime switch failed)

    - new fuel filter

     

    Can you guys think of anything else I could change/test before taking it back to get smogged a third time?

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Eric - I'll check out my plugs and do more research on what they tell me.

     

    Can you elaborate a little on the misinformation? A PM would be great, or if you want to chime in on that thread to keep in on topic and help others in the future with similar issues?

     

    Thanks for clearing that up on the thermotime switch - so, basically if the engine is warm (77 degrees or warmer), and you're starting it for the first time, the cold start valve doesn't do anything (engine just starts with 6 injectors doing their normal job)...but if the engine is below 77 degrees when starting it up, the cold start valve "helps" by injecting some extra gas into the intake - but only when cranking?

     

    This would mean, even if the thermotime switch were faulty, I wouldn't be getting any extra gas put into the engine while it's running (after cranking at start), right?

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Eric.

     

    I've got a thread already on my efforts - see here:

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151866&page=2

     

    I'm following the FSM's tests for the EFI system using my ohmmeter and done most of them I think. The O2 sensor was replaced a month ago, along with wires, plugs, cat, cap and rotor. Did valve adjustment and timing after all that too.

     

    I have failed twice this summer, with high O2 and HC levels - see other post linked above for numbers.

     

    When doing the thermotime switch test, I disconnect the battery, starter ground and cold start valve (and O2 sensor) before checking continuity (hot and cold). It works at cold levels, but when the engine is warm, it's giving the same continuity as when it's cold, which means (I think) that it's telling the cold start valve to keep dumping fuel into the intake even when the engine is nice and warm (leading to my rich environment).

     

    The cold start valve works from what I can tell through testing - it squirts has when I hook it up manually to the battery (using the FSM test methods).

     

    I have not tested the car at the smog station with the new cat yet - I want to replace the thermotime switch, do one more timing/valve adjustment, and then take it in.

     

    Thanks for the part number-I'll see if I can track it down. I'm hoping there's a "generic" part that I could use, since this car seems to use a lot of BOSCH parts that other makes/models used (SAAB being one of them, with the connectors I got recently).

     

    Cheers,

    Phil

    Cannot find Thermotime switch part # for 1980 280ZX

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hi guys,

     

    I'm looking to replace my thermotime switch, as I've failed smog and the switch tested bad when I was going through the FSM troubleshooting checklist (my guess is that it doesn't work and the cold start valve is churning extra fuel into the engine, even when it's "warm"....

     

    Problem is, I can't seem to find the darn thing online!

     

    I've gone local to my autoparts store and they don't have it and cannot order it. I've searched at RockAuto, and Summitracing - no parts!

     

    I did more searching online and came up with this great page:

    http://market.autopartsfair.com/nissan-engine_parts/280-1983-fuel_injection-c4010_12906bos_3.html

    ....But I cannot order from the page/cart - it's like it's a phantom page teaser!

     

    I've searched everywhere online and come up with a ton of stuff for SAAB and others (using BOSCH parts), but the part numbers are different from the one I found on the "Phantom" site above. here is an example of a search result:

    http://www.google.com/products?q=bosch+thermo+time+switch%2C+280&aq=f

     

    Does anyone know if this is a pretty generic BOSCH part that will work with my S130 as well? I think the BOSCH connectors are the same (I Bought a bunch to replace my old connectors on my injectors, cold start valve, etc...)....

     

    Please help me find this so I can (hopefully) finally pass smog!

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Phil

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