PhilbertZ

Hey guys, So I'm running into an issue after refinishing/painting my dash. In the process of taking it apart (after removal), the liners for the 3 gauges in the middle snapped each of their two mounting tabs that keep them in place. Now I’m putting it back together and having the darnedest time lining up the liners with the dash and the 3-gauge pod module – since they are staggered and at an angle and all, it’s juggling a lot and I’m coming up short. Any of you guys who have messed with an S130 dash have any ideas on how to better patch this up? I really want to finish this project – been at it for 3 months in my spare time and the garage needs the Z out! I briefly thought about just installing without, and then retrofitting some kind of liner from the outside of the dash, but I really have no idea how I would do that…maybe with small pieces of Velcro? Not sure if this photobucket image will imbed on this site (wirks for other v bulletin forums), but these are the bezels (pre resotration!) in question - there are liners that go on the INSIDE of the dash, between the dash and the actual gauges - they block the lights from the other gauges from bleeding out of the dash I think.... You can see the black looking liners between the dash and the gauge pod unit.... Thanks for any ideas! Phil

Thanks Tony - sounds like this was it. I replaced the whole suspension bushing set with Poly a couple years back...torqued it all to spec back then, but I guess I should have checked in on the settings more often after that...just wiggled its way loose until it ate it on the freeway! Haven't found the washer yet though...Big O is trying to find replacement parts. I looked online but it appears prothane only sells sets and not these washers/bushings by themselves :/ Phil

Thanks Macambra for the reply - much appreciated. I have the FSM (got it from the same site) but didn't find much in there. But that's moot now, as it seems Big O found the issue - and it's NOT the proportioning valve. My passenger side tension rod is missing it's front washer, nut and bushing, which they think is causing the control arm to pull back when braking, and steer the car to the right. This makes complete sense to me. It also makes sense since I heard/felt something metal and hard bounce off my floorboards on the right side when I braked on the freeway a few weeks back. Little bummed that I didn't figure this out myself (I took the wheel and caliper off to inspect), and that Big O didn't spot it first (I told them about the freeway incident when I brought it in) - they told me it needed brake lines (I agree) and sold me on replacing calipers since they were in there already (to "save on labor")....arg.

Hi guys, been away for a while - so long that I remember the old forum and cannot for the life of me figure out how to SEARCH on this one...so I apologize for starting a new thread on this (I tried Google for about 30 minutes before posting this). My 1980 280ZX has been pulling to the right under braking at any speed. I took off the front pass wheel and checked out the caliper on that side, and the pads seemed fine (I installed new pads/rotors all around less than 3,000 miles ago). I bled the brakes - stopped well but still pulled to the right under braking. So, took it into Big O tires this weekend to take advantage of the $125 rebate deal and get new tires all around (mine were 9+ years old). I also told them about the braking/pulling issue and asked them to look into it. They called me yesterday, telling me that the brake lines in the front are cracked (this I knew) and they thought that ballooning brake lines on one side were leading to one pad engaging sooner than the other. They also recommended new front calipers, since it could be a sticking piston, and, since they had the wheels off already.....so I bit and had them do new front calipers and brake hoses. Talked to them today and it's STILL pulling (!). The guy is telling me that they need to replace the proportioning valve and are having a hard time finding one. He tells me that the ZX proportioning valve acutally splits left/right and not front/rear - is that true? So, I'm getting up there in repair costs and want to keep it as sane as possible - and I don't like the idea of throwing parts at a problem - I really don't like that. Does this sound like a reasonable explanation (the proportioning valve controlling SIDES of the braking system, and thus being the likely culprit)? Is there a good source for these or should I ask them to get a manual one (they seem to run around $50-70)? Please help - I don't want to keep throwing money at this..... Thanks Phil PS - if someone could tell me how to search on this forum I'd really appreciate it

Thanks everyone - it WAS the alternator after all UNFORTUNATELY, he already told the mechanic to replace it with a stock alt :/ I really lobbied hard for the higher amp one but it was too late! Shucks. I need to convince him to replace his fusible links, as I'm sure those are ready to catch fire sooner than later! Thanks again for your help this week on this! Phil

Thanks guys - this looks solid: http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1 NewZed - I assume you'd disconnect the battery ground before removing the "hot" regulator wire, correct? Thanks guys - great information. Phil

Thanks guys - will have him check alternator first! Phil

Thanks Bartman. I'm a n00b when it comes to eletrical gremnlins myself, and have been the victim of a dead alternator (on the freeway - really fun...). My assumption is, however, that if the alternator is bad, wouldn't that just allow the battery to drain while the engine was running (since the alternator's job is to charge it while the engine is running)? Or, are you saying that the alternator is creating a contact beteween the battery and the body ground where it's not supposed to (because it's gone bad)? easy thing to check....just want to understand the logic. Thanks!

Thanks Pharo - great feedback and a place to start - I've forwarded this on to him and we'll see what comes of it Pretty sure the key was out during all tests, yes - but will confirm. Phil

My friend's 1976 280Z has suddently developed a parasitic battery drain. His charge light on the dash stays on indefinitely. He's put a lighted probe between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable and the light stays lit, no matter what fuse he pulls (short, right?). He's also pulled every fuse, one at a time, and the charge light stays on. He hasn't touched the fusable links yet (I don't have them in my ZX so I'm not familiar) - could they be the cuplrit? He's at wit's end trying to diagnose it. Radio is removed but still same symptoms. I mentioned a "kill switch" in the cab, but that's a short term solution...would like to solve this once and for all. Where would you guys start? Thanks!

Wow - that IS a rat's nest, so sorry. I'd recommened removing the battery before doing the carb cleaner thing, just in case you cause a short to a live wire....could flame up. For the FSM and tons of other good resources, check out this site: http://xenons130.com/ Good luck - hope you sort it out!

Gotta love the 2+2 slick tops!

Thanks everyone for chiming in here on this. He bought a master and slave cylinder and I did the job in a couple hours today at his place. When we took the rubber booth off the slave, black fluid went everywhere, as was stated here....so it seems like that was the culprit. Replaced both cylinders, flushed the system and bled it (lots of dark crap came out!), and it now shifts just fine and dandy. The only issue now is that there is pedal play in the clutch - it seems that there is a lot of play within the hole in the clutch pedal where the master cylinder shaft attaches with the bolt and cotter pin. The pedal just goes in about an inch before the master cylinder starts to engage. I adjusted the stopper stud/nut on the opposite side of the clutch pedal, but I maxed it out and there's still some play. Not a terrible thing - just not "perfect" I really like this car. He's going to give it to his 16 year old soon...need to convince him to trade me for my S130 Thanks again guys!

It was a cheap and easy fix However, even though I replaced the cruise control stopper (also missing), CC still doesn't work :/

Thanks everyone! Looks like he's going to replace both cylinders, and I'll do the work for him, since I've done the master before on my Z. I'll let you know how it turns out. Cheers, Phil

Thanks guys for chiming in so soon. So, the travel on the slave cylinder - is that shorter than normal - is that why you guys think it's still the hydraulics and not the clutch itself? I remember when my clutch went out, the cluthc pedal feel never changed - it was all isolated to the transmission.

A friend at work has a 76 280Z that he got from his dad last year (Original owner) and the car's been in great mechanical shape but is now showing its age. Recently, he asked me about this condisiton in his clutch; I dropped by after work to check it out (thought it was the master cyclinder leaking or slave cylinder, since mine went on the 280ZX I have a couple years ago). After checking out the car in person, I'm stumped. Here are the symptoms: (no leaks at master, slave cylinders, and the fluid level is within normal operating levels) - the clutch pedal has very little resistance when pressed. Resistance is constant but very light (think Honda clutch but even lighter!) - The slave cylinder is moving the clutch fork when depressed (I confirmed this lying on the ground while he depressed the clutch); it moved the piston about half an inch in/out when operating. - He tells me that, when driving, he'll put the clutch all the way in, shift, and then the gear engages pretty much as SOON as he starts releasing the clutch (before, it would release an inch or so, then start to engage). He says this dleta between release and engagement has gotten smaller (worse) in recent attempts to drive it. This all happened within short time frame. I feel like it's not a fluid/pressure/cylinder issue, since those things are not leaking and the slave is doing it's job (but is 1/2" travel normal?). Does this mean the clutch is going? Do the fail this quickly? I had one die on me years ago in my Corolla, but it would start slipping in the high gears, then "zzzzing" and the gear no longer works. This is different and that's why I'm stumped. Any ideas/troubleshooting he/I can try before he has this thing towed to his mechanic? Thanks in advance! Phil

That could explain why it's never worked! Thanks Guess I'll get a second stopper and report back when installed. Phil

thanks guys - I'm so glad I posted here and learned the cause for this. I broke down and called the dealer to see if they may have this 30 year old part....lo and behold they did - for less than $3.00. I picked it up today, installed it, jumped the Z, and HOORAY - no more brakelights!! Below are some photos to guide anyone looking at this in the future who may come across the same problem. The one thing that startled me (and this just happened now while looking at all the photos I took), is that there seems to be a second switch, also actuated by the brake pedal - and I'm missing that stopper too! Does anyone know what that switch is for? PHOTOS!

THANK YOU! WOW! I *did* come across that on the driver's side floor well today - the yellow plastic "plug" of sorts - that must be it!! where does it attach?

Guys, Very strange problem I haven't come across before. I went to start my ZX yesterday after sitting for a week and turn the key and NOTHING - no voltage at all - everything is dead. I checked and no lights were left on or doors left ajar...just dead. the battery was replaced in October - and I've left it to sit for up to 2 weeks at a time before with no issue so it's not the battery. I jumped it this morning and it started fine. However, when running I noticed that the 2 brake lights were ON! I checked the pedal and there was no play/sticking. I also forced the brake down with a crammed in golf club to see if that changed the lights at all - nothing - still on (as if someone were standing on the brakes before and after the golf club was applied). Any idea what could be causing this constant power to my brake lights? I disconnected the plugs to each taillight after charging the car to avoid this again, but I don't want to live like that forever.... PLEASE HELP. Thanks! BTW, here are the photos of my voltage gauge: Engine off, with key in: Engine on:

If nothing else, that's a really clean dash

the S130 is the red headed step child of the Datsun family...especially for after market parts Good luck - let me know what you find - mine work now but I'm sure I'll be in your boat one of these days too soon....

Good luck....there are plenty of options for the S30 but the S130 OEM ones are hard to come by....no one seems to sell reproductions. You're new here - do some searching on this site for "weather stripping" and "S130" and you'll find some ideas. borrowing from other, newer junkyard cars is a popular option I think. My solution: turn up the stereo!

How have I not seen this thing around town??? Looks fantastic!