Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About BQR280Z

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/06/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bear Creek, WI
  1. Oldhemi is spot on. They do weigh a considerable amount. Best case, remove them and fab up some aluminum mounts for your 240 bumpers. I removed all four of my mounts for this year, along with a fair amount of other things. Came up with a gross savings of 141# for this year. Pounds per horsepower is the name of the game. Bill
  2. If you have all the mounting hardware for your 240 bumpers, you can remove them. If you need the mounting point you can drain and compress the shocks, then drill and cross pin them so they stay compressed. Bill
  3. When I shaved my handles I ran a manual cable for the passenger side through into the engine compartment. The cable termminates with a loop pull in the area where the battery originally sat. I run a fiberglass hood and use a single hood pin in place of the original latch. Access to the engine compartment is available if the battery does dead so then I can open the passenger door. Bill
  4. My passenger window has been a problem since I bought the Z. Took the door apart for the handle shave and found this broken roller. It is the one that rides on the inside of the door towards the interior. It would roll a half turn then pop out. So I made up new parts on the lathe, with the roller in aluminum instead of plastic. We shall see if that takes care of it. Bill
  5. Yes you can weld aluminum just fine with your Miller 185. Add a Miller spool gun kit and a tank of argon and you are good to go. The soft aluminum wire will not push through the standard wire feed hand torch. The spool gun only pushes 4" or so and works fine for up to .25 alum. (multiple passes) Bill
  6. Chartoo, I really don't know who made them. They came with the car when I bought it, but I would bet they are old like late 70's ish. Bill
  7. No, those are earlier pics of the car. Still has door handles, steel hood, no diffuser, side vent emblems, leaking gas tank. It was on the road for 6 years, been down for 1.5 years with current face lift. Still working on a few things, new smaller aluminum radiator, block-off panel, splitter turnbuckle mounts. So far this year weight is down 104 pounds. Should shoot the new paint in a week or two, and be ready for car shows in June. Bill
  8. The diffuser is from a Ford GT, not a Mustang but the $175,000.00 Ford GT40 replicas. I used to work for a company that cut the roofs off Gt's and made open roadsters out of them X1's. The GT's are considerably wider than our Z's so I cut material from the center and narrowed it. Bill
  9. The wheels are Enkei "Blades" I still have the 15" with tires if you are interested. The Enkei's are aluminum modular wheels, there are some pressed steel knock-offs that have the same basic shape. Since I do my own painting, a face lift was not that big a deal, although a gallon of Viper Race Yellow cost $246.00 yesterday. The first time I painted it the same gallon was $130.00. Bill
  10. This time around I'm going bumperless. And yes wheels are getting changed. From 15x7, zero offset to 17x8, 40mm offset w/R compund rubber. You are right about the pics of my car, it was just showing its age a little and the hood was starting to bubble bad. So it was time for a face lift, but I still like my color/stripe package. Bill
  11. Yes they are truck/trailer lights, and they are LED. I took the lenses from the incandescent ones and bonded them to the LED bases. I liked the convex better than the flat lenses. Bill
  12. Here's a couple of shots of the rear diffuser in place. Bill
  13. Hey guys, Tell me what you think of my new mods for the Z. Shaved door handles, welded up and smoothed cowl panel, fiberglass hood, reshaped front end, side vent scoops, narrowed Ford GT rear difuser. Paint will be Viper Race Yellow with white stripes.
  • Create New...