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Briguy280Z

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Posts posted by Briguy280Z

  1. I can't believe the turnout this year (Even with the rain)...and i met sooo many Hybridz owners and Z-car enthusiasts I was exhausted by the end of the day. What a weekend...I learned so much! I was amazed that I got second place this year never knew I even had a shot at it.

     

    Thanks for all that nice comments this year

     

    The pictures on my site are more than a year old...going to try to spend some time creating my new web page. I’ll post some MSA 2004 Pictures shortly

  2. 1. Year of motor/mods: 1998 stock LS1 soon LS6 intake with tuning

    2. Tranny: T56 with custom "W" mount.

    3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts:maichor style motor mounts...at this time looking at dressing up the motor a bit.

    4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, Custom fuel level convertion circuit stock fuel guage Camaro tank and Corvette style fuel pressure regulator(Nice reg/filter setup)

    5. Date you started on the project, date finished: Bought the car in 94 started LS1 Sometime in 2002. LS1 conversion finished in 2004. The car will never be Finished.

    6. Other car mods 4 caliper toyo brakes, cast rear drums Arrow kit with cali wing, Alluminum drive shaft Complete smog legal conversion(who cares?)

     

    Sorry fellas, havent been around much just starting to work on the car again for this years car shows...see ya there

     

    You guys make any licence plate frames for Hybridz yet?

     

    Website is offline..changes isp

  3. The wire harness is not that difficult to do. its just about the right size. The only difficult part is labeling all the wires to where they are supposed to go. It depends on how much your time is worth....labeling and installing the wire harness took about 2 days...can be done in a weekend. I prefer being occupied, other wise i would be walking the mall with my wife :cry2:

  4. Yes you will love the LS-1 in your Z. I love seeing peoples faces when i drop the hammer and take off like a bat out of hell.... :flamedevil:

     

    Your in a good location where you can keep the smog off your car. Mine has all the smog equipment and is CA legal! There is lots of obsticals that you will come accross wile doing the swap. Keep searching the Forum and you will find the answer some times in 2 or 3 diffrent posts. If it isnt it drop a post and we will answer it again.

     

    Good Luck

     

    Mike (i love those motor mounts) corvette bracket location not camaro

  5. I didn't even think twice when i started my engine. Coolant was in it started it up and never turned back...some leaks here and there but no air pockets.

     

    My heater hose is hooked up so i would check the bypass you did.

    220degrees in nothing for this engine especially when its idleing. I always get nevous when my tstat goes to red...but thats how the engine runs If it gets over 235 and nothing is happening then i would worry. Check out the GM service manual its all in there!!?!

     

    Theres easy ways to check your tstats before you install them...i due anyways so i dont have to do it twice.

     

    GM Manual--

     

    The PCM will turn the cooling fans on low speed when any of the following conditions exist at idle:

     

    Certain PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are set.

    The ECT above 108°C (226°F).

    The A/C high side pressure above 215 psi.

    Once the low speed fans are turned ON by Engine Coolant Temperature, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when that temperature has dropped about 4°C (7°F). If the low speed cooling fans are turned ON by high A/C head pressure, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when the pressure has dropped to 190 psi. The minimum ON time for the low speed cooling fans is 50 seconds.

     

    The cooling fans are turned OFF at certain vehicle speeds. Adequate airflow through the A/C condenser and radiator occurs with vehicle movement to properly cool the A/C refrigerant and engine coolant without the assistance of the cooling fans.

     

    High Speed Cooling Fans

    The High Speed Cooling Fans are controlled by the PCM based on the following inputs:

     

    The A/C system.

    The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.

    The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

    The PCM will enable both fans on high speed when any of the following conditions exist:

     

    Certain PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set.

    The ECT above 112°C (234°F).

    The A/C high side pressure above 248 psi.

    Once the high speed cooling fans are turned ON by the Engine coolant temperature, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when that temperature has dropped about 4°C (7°F). If the high speed cooling fans are turned ON by high A/C head pressure, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when the pressure has dropped to 208 psi. The minimum ON time for the high speed cooling fans is 30 seconds.

     

    good luck

  6. I love this idea....first on the block with a very powerful engine. Not only is it powerful but it is one sweet looking engine. I saw one on a Chrysler 300 and i almost couldn't keep my eyes off of it.

     

    hemi.jpg

    enlarge_1.jpg

     

    There are some sweet performance parts for these engines.

     

    Keep us posted

     

     

    "Its time to think of something different when the idea becomes the institution"

  7. I really like your conversion and i am interested in the information. I will be following this thread for a wile. I just have a suggestion if i may. Could you use rubber elbos and use the strait allumium where you can use it. It is hard to bend SS but you can make it look nice. Check out these guys, i am sure that it will withstand 30psi boost without a problem. This is pretty thick stuff

     

    http://www.airflo.com/rubberparts.html

     

    You can take care of that air box by installing a K&N so you can make up some room. I know you are looking to keep it cali legal...you can install a K&N without having any problems with the Referee. I did and my LS-1 passed without a problem.

     

    I think a taurus fan and griffin would work well unless your really squezzing it in there?

     

    Keep the pic's comming!!!!

     

     

    "Its time to think of something different when the idea becomes the institution"

  8. I've been looking at the pics on the third page and reading as the progress continues. Looks like a very good job and really like the motor mounts. I've been thinking about redesigning mine to move the motor left more so that my a/c doesnt hit. and give some more room for the exhaust. Keep posting pics

     

    Good job!!

     

    Brian

  9. I used the 98 ls-1 exhaust manifolds but did some modifications to make them fit. On the drivers side i had to remove the O2 bung and relocate it on the inside of the exhaust manifold. I did this by useing a hole saw and cutting it out and using the piece from the opposite side and welded them all back in. Make sure (if you use the O2) to place it in a location where it will not hit the block The steering rod was really close to the manifold so i placed a rod and hit it with a hammer to dent in the area were the exhaust was hitting. I removed both stock exhaust connectors and replaced them with corvette flanges so it would be easier to install the mufflers and pipes.

     

    I like those ZO6 manifolds!!! I would replace mine if i knew that they worked.

  10. Many said it wasnt possable and even the referee. But today i successfully completed a LS-1 280Z engine change Referee Inspection in California. It was farly quick but i'll tell you how it went.

     

    First I sat down with the Referee and he asked many questions about the equipment and i told him it was basicly a stock 98 Camaro. Then he asked about ABS and i said NO. Then we went out to the shop to test it on the dyno and wa-la passed with flying colors....CLEAN! We went back and completed the paperwork with no more mention of ABS or anything. Went to DMV Registered the beast and got my plates....WHOOT. :D:D Here is a bit of proof

     

    registration3.jpg

     

    Plate.jpg

     

    It is possable to complete a California LS-1 Engine Change and i have the proof :!::!:

     

    I would like to thank Hybridz.org, Speartech.com, LS1tech.com, Electro-Tech.com (help with Fuel Guage Circuit), Jeromio, Maichor, Phantom, Brad454, Summit Racing, Autometer, AutoTap, my Father and everyone else for there support.

  11. Ok I still don’t have the measurement too busy bla bla bla....I got a ref appointment on Thursday and trying to get everything together.

     

    I used the JTR transmission mount design. I don’t know how much it would cost but a metal shop can do it for you if you don’t want to order it. I had mine done for free cuz i used to work at a metal shop as a CAD designer. One of these days i can draw them up completely and finish a correct drawing. for a fee!! JK

     

    The engine is very strait with the rear differential and very minimal vibration. Only turning left...hehe dam AC Unit

     

    But otherwise just to put my 2 cents in. I spent allot of time and money to make this car worth doing. Not only did i change the motor but all the springs, rubbers and stripped the original paint. I bought the car about 7 years ago for $250 and i was going to do a JTR conversion. With not much money i did as much as i could. After being a college grad i was able to do other things than just a JTR conversion. LS-1 came up when i found this forum and i did it. No plans or conversion kits but a motor and a forum. (I love you guys) Question after question I had to ask Jeromio and others to see what i can do to fit this beast in this car. If it wasn’t for you guys I don’t know if I would have done to get the car complete. This was a hobby not just a mission to go fast but something i did with my own hands (A Z-car enthusiast) with a little help from a metal shop which i provided the designs and a GM service manual was able to finish the car. (Cross fingers for Thursday)

     

    I could of dumped 5k into my 944 turbo and made a 400 rwhp Porsche. But the challenge and of doing something like this was more inspiring

     

    It might take some time but i will get back to you with a reply

     

    Briguy280z

  12. I have tring to update my drawing but havent had the time to measure the mounts. I really used 4x2 rectangle tubing with a Z-bar on each side. I welded the nuts on the inside of the tubing and welded the ends closed so that no water could get in. I liked th rectangled tubing because it has more of a tailerd look. You could use Channel and would loose about half the weight. Also when i used the rectangle tubing the sides are rounded which made the 2 inch channel lower than maichor and the oil pan hit. so i had to use some spacers above the rubber mounts to raise the engine about a quarter of an inch. I'll get under the car tomarrow and measure it out for you guys..

     

    Thanks

  13. Ha I got the best of the best

     

    I worked for a machine shop as a lazer programmer and made mine the same dimension but changed the style so they looked a lil cleaner. :twisted: I think i still have the program to run them on a lazer. Made them up absolutly free. You could probably say i got paid to make them. :D

     

    Although i never did use them....after changing my mind and putting an LS-1 in. I am going to put them up for sale at the car show this April. Complete set spacers hood latch and trans bracket. :wink:

     

    Saving money you will do about anything!!!

     

    LOL :lol:

    Briguy280z

  14. Jeromio used the same gas tank as i did but i didn't take out the rear tire. One thing that Jeromio's had that mine didnt was a fuel pressure regulator....if it doesn't have a regulator AC Delco makes a regulator/ filter that works fine. Mine hangs down about 4 inches lower than his but the rear differenial is still lower than my tank. I figued if the diff didnt hit the tank wont eather. lil more noticable from the rear. I used the straps from the camaro and brased & rivited the ends of the Zcar straps so i could used the same mounting method. Put allot of padding and points to tighten down to so that it didnt crush my evap canister. Its been awile but i built a circuit for the fuel gauge to convert the computer signal to the gauge. It works very well but i did some changes from the site....i just got to sit down and draw it out again.

     

    Check out a Cyrus post...he had a presmog z 71 i believe also and he had some problems with california smog laws, i dont remember what but you might want to check it out....I think if you swap it and keep it on the down-low you should be fine....FYI

     

    Briguy280z

  15. Depends on what you accually want to do with the car. I dont know what state you are in and that can be a factor also. I live in Cali and smog laws made me do the whole smog OBDII swap. If you dont care about being legal or aren't required then you dont need very much at all.

     

    If you are in a smog reqirement area this is what i would take....your lucky i had to search for my stuff

    -Air Pump

    -Both CATS with 4 O2 sensors (be carfull O2's are easy to break dont drop them)

    -Fuel Tank (With all EVAP equipment...I believe it is all with the tank 2000+)

    -BCM unless you are going to build a VATS Module

    -PCM with wire harness and inline connectors for fuel tank and BCM Connectors

    -Control Box 1 & 2 (relays with fueses for fan control and other options--you may need only one)

     

    Other things you may need

    -GM Service Manual if you are going to use the original harness

     

    I used a tarus fan and a griffin radiator so i dont know if those will fit but thats all i can think of right now...i will leave other info if i forgot something..

     

    Good luck

    Briguy280z

  16. Ouch now that really hurts, my motor mounts look like junk, jeromio's and maichor's too. Copying a good plan is one thing but putting someone elses design down just cuz u don't like it is another. I think everyone did a great job with the motor mounts with how many swaps involving a LS-1 in a Z-car. Design your own if you think you can do better!!! WE ARE HERE TO HELP NOT PUT EVERYONE ELSES DOWN BECAUSE WE DID IT DIFFERENTLY.:twisted:

     

    Briguy280Z

  17. Yea the MAF is apart of the air cleaner, nice little setup but pulls in to much hot air. Speed and Performace parts in Arizona

     

    Nion, i tossed that shifter about 5 months ago i use a lou's short stick with a hurst nob. That one was made up to be able to drive the car....i should of saved it so i could sent it to you :wink:

     

    Well thats not so bad i guess...i plan on dyno sometime next month...finishing odds and ends before MotorSports Car show

    No programming has been done to the computer, it is stock and i rewired the harness....suprised everything works HEHEHE

  18. Phantom, i used a street and performance intake and what i am finding out is that i pull in approx 190 degree air when i am not moving at operating temperature. After gaining some speed it does drop to about 100 degrees. After reading some forum i was told that 1% HP drop every 10 degrees above ambiant air temp. I like what mas28O did and sure will keep HP up when he hits operating temperature.

     

    My problem is that i have an electrical center and coolant overflow on the passanger side. I am going to try to use a cupple of 45 and 90's to get out on the drivers side. Also another idea was to punch out a hole in the wheelwell

     

    Any other ideas???

    My Picshttp://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z/

  19. Did you try to connect the intake comming in from the drivers side instead of the passanger side. Is the radiator hose too much in the way or do you think it would be possable to route it through? My problem is that i have a electrical box and the coolant container on that side. I would be nicer on the otherside....just wandering what you thought?

  20. I never said it was hard to connect the fuel system. The point was to prevent mistakes that I made with my conversion. My fuel lines around exhaust and hot points is covered with insulation and topped with sheet metal to keep everything kewl.

     

    If I was at the beginning of the conversion such as you I would do the return closer to the motor. i thought that there was a regulator in the tank like i had read in the GM service manual. I assumed the V-6 was the same way but i was wrong. I converted and removed one hard line and used the return line for the EVAP canister. It would be going out of my way and more expensive to return the fuel from the rail.

     

    FYI

     

    I will be visiting the Ref up their in concord. He has already passed one other LS1 smog legal conversion. :wink:

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