Briguy280Z

Hey All I used the JTR kit for my 280z conversion back in 2001 when I was going to put a SBC in college. Then I got a killer deal on a LS-1 and T56 package with all the accessories. Then I made a custom crossmember for the corvette mounting style. But now that the car is back on the radar I’m ripping it all out and installing an apex-engineered front end crossmember to my Tecno Toy Tuning front end suspension. I need to find a supercharger to install on the car. Any ideas https://www.apexengineered.com/s30---240z--260z--280z.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/gtx2-front-lower-control-arms-and-tc-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z

I was looking on the internet and couldn't find the unattainable replacement heater control valve. I stumbled on to this little jewel and saw the body was exactly like the 280z but the actuator was not the same. Mine had a broken diaphragm at the top which drained about a quart of anti-freeze into my passenger side footwell. I removed the top of the Volvo model and replaced it with the original Z so I could use the original actuator. Zcarsource used to rebuild them but they are not out of business. But this is an fairly easy replacement for $100. https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7482/Heater-Control-Valve-PV-Amazon-for-Volvo-MTC-171404-673452-108671 Just for those Z owners that don't have heat.

Ok, I got my driveshaft last week and i'am pretty happy with the result. FYI on Driveshaft Fab: Take the 400R input shaft and Q45 flange but they will not be able to use the Q45 flange because it is designed with nonserviceable u-joints but its nice to use as a reference. So they will need to order (Powertrain Industries #3102-69) Q-45 flange that can use the 1310 u-joint. It is alot beefier of a u-joint than the stock q45 u-joint and its serviceable. Anyways when you install the differential bolted down to it's final position you will need to take a measurement from the Flange face to the Transmission Seal. Mine was 28 3/4" but take a measurement with yours inplace because it will be different with each car. Take all this information down to your local driveline shop and they will make it...mine was done in 5 hours, so i picked it up the same day. I think the diameter for my shaft is 2 5/8" which clears everything under the car. All this came out to about $244.00 with a steel shaft. If you want allumium you will have to pay $100-$150 more. I figured it was so short allready allumium wouldn't make much difference. As for the drivability I am very satisfied. I laided into the gas abit much with my wife in the car and she was about ready to walk home from there. LOL!! Alot quieter that the u-joints and smooth excelleration. I went back and saw two nice even black patches of rubber. SWEET!!!

You have the rear mounted swaybar on your 240Z. My 280z has the front mounted swaybar and dont have as much options as you would. Anyone with a 280z has a fix for this situation?

I just installed the Q45 differential on my car and have the same problem. I couldnt get the CV mounted with the end link in place, so i removed the swaybar. I was planning on shortening the end link but would that mean i would have to drop the swaybar mount down the same distance? or just shortening the swaybar be easier? Has anyone shifted the swaybar mount forward 3/4 inch and see if this clears? Trying to find which way i want to go? thanks Brian

When I last talked to Ross he was working on a final cost for a complete package. I am not sure what he will be retailing this setup as...I had an email into him and got a responce that he will be back today sometime. Maybe he'll chime in on order status and priceing. Drive Line got ordered today...he said it will be ready tomarrow.

User Review Modern Motorsport Rear Differential Package: Includes: 1 - Front Differential Mount & Hardware 1 - Mustache Bar & Hardware(For Both Q45 & R230) 1 - Rear Crossmember Support Brace & Hardware & Spacers 8 - Upper Mounting Spacers 4 - End Stops 2 - Axles 2 - R230 Companion Flanges Complete Package to install Few things to make the install go a little faster When removing the old differential loosen all the U Joint and driveshaft bolts first before you remove them. this allows you to use the E-Brake to hold the shafts from moving when untightening the bolts for the shafts and the drive line. I didn't remove the control arms to install the Differential, and dont think its nessessary to do so, but i had a helper. Wives are good at jacking...lol If you look at the Mustache bar it has provisions for both R200 and r230 mounting. The R200 mounts in both positions without any interferance with anything but the R230 cannot be mounted to the top mounting position without modification. I am not sure what you have to do because i used the R200 Diff. I decided to use the top mounting position to see where everything lays out. The front mount attaches to the retension strap mounting holes right above the front crossmember. Before mounting the front differential mount you have to bend out two sheet metal tabs, they will interfear with the front mount. I had my wife jack up the differential wile i guided it up to its correct location and then bolted it down. Modifications to crossmembers: By mounting the q45 R200 differential in the upper location i was able to clear the front crossmember with very little modification. You will have to cut a tab in the crossmember to clear the front differential mount. Rear Crossmember has to be modified to clear the larger differential cover. I took a cutoff wheel on a small grinder and cut along the arc for a nice clean look. I cleaned up the cuts with the grinder and then a metal file. Then everything got sent off to be powdercoated. My camaro gas tank gets in the way a bit when mounting the crossmember so i did it in parts. I am sure if you had a Z tank install as one piece would not be much of a problem. I had some problems at the end when trying to install the r230 CV. The stock swaybar end links get in the way of the CV boots. I think i have read somewhere that you can run with out the swaybar. I plan on putting it back in when i get a shorter end links. I am using Modern Motorsports Rear disk conversion for about a year now and have not any problems with. It was a very easy install and clearance with this is not an issue I did the companion flange conversion wile everything was out getting powdercoated. I cant wait to get on the road with this guy!!! Overall the install was quick and strait forward. Really no supprises except for the end links interfearing. I read that even the 280zxt cv boots even interfear with the end links. Maybe someone will chime up with a solution with this last detail. Mounting the differential at the top postion allows be a strait shot to the t-56 input flange. I used a laser to see how strait the shaft is going to be and i was amazed that its about 1-2 degrees inline with the transmission. I talked to Jay at Powertrain and he feels as long as i am within 1-2 degrees vibration should be minimal. Driveshaft is going to be ordered tomarrow, not sure on the turnaround on this but should be on the road by the end of the week. Then i'll put it to the test then! I have to give it to Ross and Modern Motorsport for a pretty complete package and taking out alot of the guess work when doing this install. Thanks Ross and Modern Motorsport Good Job!!! Brian

I used a Griffin 26" alluminum radiator..Then i bent a peice of welding rod and took it down to Autozone and rummaged through their radiator hoses. I'll take a look and see if the #'s are still on the hoses when i get home

Good Job! Getting another LS-1 Z on the road!

I am going to do the Q45 rearend swap currently have all the q45 parts but i am lacking the halfshaft/ halfshaft adapters, mustashe bar and front mount. I noticed the parts lists and was wonder what everyone did for the drive shaft? -Brian

To my understanding is that cold air sucking up through the headers can cause damage to vales because of the hot metal getting hit with cold air. I believe it can cause them to stress fracture or crack. Just though it was something you should be aware of. Anyways Good job

The headers that i am using now are the original camaro headers with modifications to the collector flanges. The problem i am having with this style is that the collector is too close to the firewall and radiates into the interior, that and i have to run cats. I was looking at the JTR headers and love the looks but you said they hit the C5 motor mount.(which are the ones that i am using). Is this something a little modification to the mount would heal or is it impossable to consider doing this at all. Ceramic coating would heal any access exhaust heat and plan on coating back to the y pipe. I was looking for some picture with a test fit with the JTR headers and C5 mounts passenger side. Brake booster is there just look closer Yellow stripe (remember the little rubber disk) It had fell when it took it out the first time and almost flew through the windshield a few times.

VinhZXT, what was in the way of the JTR (sanderson headers) on the passenger side. Your using the same style Corvette mounts and i was considering changing mine over to the JTR style. I agree it looks as if they could tip the header to the rear it would work better. The manifolds i have heat the firewall up too hot and need a better solution.

When swapping the Q45 vlsd into a long nose r200 casing does the shaft length change or is it the same? Also i was wonder how this swap is holding up i got spacers for the ring gear and ready to send out the shafts to get them resplined and want to make sure i got the right lengths. I know that the passenger side is longer than the drivers side. Can someone provide the lengths so i can compaire. I want to get the companion flanges from MM. Those billet flangs just look so sweet!

I would like to know the variaty of uses for this differential. And how well the performance is holding up. So far i have heard about twisting splines and viscous material wearing out...not sure how true it is. Any other issues come up? Any input would be appreciated! Please include engine specification and hp if known. Thanks Brian

This will be updated as things roll-on Installation of the Q45 R-200 vlsd into a 280Z R200 housing. So far I have gathered the nessessary parts for the drive axles (or so it seemed) I picked up a Q45 lsd with drive axles at a local yard. I also got some 5 bolt flanges off of a 90 300zx. Important things that i could not find on the forum. 1- 5 bolt flanges are not the same spline count as the 6 bolt flanges 5 bolt flange is 27 count 6 bolt flange is 30 count I confermed this fact today. Not sure if its easyer to get a nother set of compaintion flanges that are 6 bolt or just have the shafts to fit? next task find a machine shop that will cut the axles and respline(if there is such a thing.) to a 27 count spline so that i will have one side 27 and other 30. Some things i need to know from the experienced members. How would i measure the shaft length from center to center of the flange adapters? Any help on this would be great! I will be pulling the differential down to remove the core soon. I remember reading the it takes some force to pry out the differential flanges. Cupple of prybars and a hammer should do it. Anyone please drum in any help would be appreaciated.

Each side of the cv needs to attach some how and Tim covered it pretty good in his pictoral thread. Pretty sweet tutorial- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90068

I am looking for a few things to finish up this project. Is the spline count the same with a 5 bolt flange vs a 6 bolt flange? Axle shafts--Where can i get these? Adapter Plates--5 bolt pattern 300zx na Bushings--to attach the ring gear so close but yet so far! Thanks

So far this is what i have Have 1-R200 from 280z 1-R200 from Q45 2-companion flanges from 300zx (5 bolt) not Threaded 2-companion flanges from q45 (six bolt) Threaded Need 1-Driver side Axles (Size??) 1-Passanger side (Size??) 2-Adapter for companion flange (5 Bolt) 2-12 mm spaces for bolts (ring gear) So far $300 Broke two tools trying to get the differential out--grrr

I picked up a q45 r200 from the jy and some companion flanges from a 90 300zx na 5 bolt. I would like to use the r200 long but i am a little fuzzy on a few things. The 12mm bolt spacers - not sure where to find these. Have a machine shop make them? The companion flange couldn't you thread the companion flange or would the alluminum be too soft to do this? Are they about 1" thick? Is there any advantages between the 5 bolt and 6 bolt cv units?The q45 will have the 6 bolt and the 300zx has the 5 bolt. Having a problem finding someone to make axle shafts. Any suggestion? I would really like to see a picture of the q45 innards in the r200 long casing. Does the axles differ in length than tim240z setup? This is a matter of opinion but should i buy another r200 long and fit the q45 in that....would this make the process easyier or no difference? Thanks Brian