dirtbiker245

This may be a long shot, but my company is interested in a LZ22E Piston. Its okay if you only have one as I just need a sample of one for a new product that we are developing. It can be used and abused, so long as its still okay to make measurements off of. Phone: (818)585-3177.

thanks for the link j.soileau!

geez, i wish I would have known about that before hand. Being that I have already made this really custom CLEAN looking plexiglass bracket that holds all the coil packs and looks really good in the engine bay as well... i still think im gonna go with this custom one, so I need to still figure out which side is ground and which is for power.

while that does sound like a good idea. Im trying to use what I already have. I dont want to be wasting a set of perfectly good coils. No need to go buy new ones when these work fine. Basically, Im not trying to be cheap, but I dont feel the need to go buy new coils when I already have a set. hope that makes sense. Any ideas on which is positive and which is negative? or anybody know a way to possibbly ohm test it to find out?

I am working on a 240 turbo setup that had a TecII ecu on it. I am converting it to a megasquirt setup because the ECU went out on the TecII. I am planning on using the coil packs that mounted on the TecII ( I have made a bracket out of plastic that holds all the coil packs and has holes to put pins into the connections on the back of the coil packs). the problem is that I cant tell which pin is ground and which is for the positive feed. NO, IT IS NOT MARKED. im not an idiot. lol. any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks! and theres a picture attached for reference.

JC, again, those stock setups have some kind of filter before the pump. Some kind of SCREEN to get big things out. Its not a fine filter, but it has SOMETHING. The problem here is that I have a STRAIGHT line coming out of the bottom of the tank with NO filtering, NO screen, NOTHING. I think ive got it figured out though nonetheless. Im just gonna try a walbro and i'll let you guys know how it works out.

Jc, no matter how clean I make the tank and how perfect i get the tank.. hell, it could be a brand new tank, it still is a good idea to have SOME kind of screen/filter to help keep big stuff out that could have come in just from contaminated fuel at a gas pump. Thats all I am looking for. Every tank I have ever worked on has some kind of screen thats usually at the pickup IN the tank. Unfortunately, with this setup, I am unable to do the conventional in tank screen on the pickup so im looking for a inline type filter. I'll check out summit. Thanks for the info

I want it there so as to not worry about debris getting in the pump and wrecking it. I have a filter AFTER the pump but I had a pump fail and I think it was due to sediments in the tank. This fuel tank has been modified by the previous owner to have the fuel pickup on the ABSOLUTE bottom of the tank so instead of debris piling up on the bottom of the tank, it goes straight into the pump. What would you suggestions be to my situation? Should i just run a walbro with no filter and hope for the best?

also, keep in mind on z32 clutches, there is 2 spots to bleed the air out of the lines and if you dont use both, you wont get all the air out. 1 of the spots is the slave cylinder. The other spot is under the hood of the car on the passenger side inner fender. Its a metal line that comes up to a metal block of sorts that has a bleed valve on it. NOTE: I have only ever seen this bleed port on TWIN TURBO Z's. Alot of guys take this bleed point line out to clean up the engine bay, but if yours is still there, you will want to bleed it, that will probably be your problem.... hope that helps!

sorry, its for a 1970 240z with a 280turbo l28. And to clarify, I want to put the filter between the tank and the pump so on the LOW pressure side of the pump. The problem is that the tank has a 12mm outlet and the pump has a 12mm inlet, SO I want an inline filter that preserves the 12mm flow size so as not to restrict flow. Hope that makes more sense and clarifies anything that you werent sure about.

Im gonna be running a 255lph walbro in-line pump on my turbo setup. Im trying to find a good in-line filter that has a 12mm inlet and 12mm out and wont be too restrictive. Does anybody know of a place to buy one offhand? Thanks for your help!

im actually experiencing almost the same problem right now! Ive got a 70 240 with a 280 turbo motor in it. The pump keeps somehow getting air. Then I hear it cavitating and then the pump dies on me... :-/ Ive been through two pumps before I realized this is what was going on. after seeing one person suggest it could be a crack in the line that under pressure is letting air in, im gonna just go get a completely new tank to pump line. Good luck with correcting your problem... i'll keep you updated on mine too and let you know if I get it fixed. Dont worry, you arent the only person to ever experience this!

Im currently taking apart an r180 rear end and have encountered some difficulty removing the half shaft FLANGES from the differential. I got them to move in and out a VERY small amount but am unable to get them to pull all the way out of the differential which im pretty sure is the way they are supposed to be removed. Does anybody have any hints or tips on removing them? and does anybody know of any DIY guides somewhere on this site or online? I couldnt find any so far. Thank you for all your help!

Glad you got that figured out. I hope that doesnt turn into a heat problem with the turbo SO close to the master cylinder. Its gonna be heating up your brake fluid before you even push the brakes... lol. Something to think about. I would try and come up with some kinda good heat shield to keep it insulated or you might find yourself in a world of problems.

any pictures of some rims on cars?