KasbeKZ

i have a clutch line on the way. i hope that's it! as for the two ports, yes i'm very aware of both of them. i'm under the impression that they are bother required because if the top one wasn't there, then there would be more opportunity for air to get trapped in the bottom of the line.

that's something i hadn't thought of. there are no springs that i know of on that side. but extending while there is no pressure on the peddle may be a problem. i'll check that out. thanks for the advise.

back ground: i just changed the clutch to a new exedy clutch. new pressure plate, disk, TOB, and pilot bushing. everything looked the same as the parts that i took off. i also put a used fidanza flywheel on. no problems with it. pressure plate and flywheel are properly torqued, and the pilot bushing is pushed in to exactly where the old one was (not too far in the crank). symptoms: as soon as i got everything put back together, i pushed the clutch in, and got nothing. nothing at all. i bled it, got very little response, lots of air, and the air never stopped. so, i said "the master is bad" (because i had already replaced the slave when i got the car, so it's not too old). so i got a new master from napa. put it on, adjusted the clutch out to hopefully make sure that the TOB was getting pushed far enough. the old master looked pretty bad. lots of sludge and stuff anyway, back to the symptoms. the master change made the pedel instantly feel better. after a pump or two, the clutch felt normal. so after bleeding (start at bottom, then top, back to bottom, back to top, then bottom again), the clutch still goes strait to the floor on the first pump. after 2 or 3, it feels fairly normal. watching it underneath, the fork is getting pushed back a fair amount. about 1/4-1/2 inch away from the back of the hole that it's in. so i look and look for problems. i check that the TOB is not on backwards. it's not. it's fine. i make sure the fork is touching in all the right places. looks fine as far as i can see. the slave is not leaking. then, i pushed on the fork with my hand. i find that i can push it about 1/4-1/2 inch back, by hand, without seeing ANY movement from the TOB. then, the slave cylinder extends because it's under pressure, meets the fork, and takes pressure to be pushed back. ideas: in summary, the clutch takes a pump to get feeling good. after being let to sit for 3 seconds, it goes back to the floor upon the first pump. there is no more air in the line. so, it's possible that the slave is bad. i expect first thing tomorrow i will be running out to buy a slave, and maybe a new line. other than that, i can push the clutch fork back almost a half inch with my hand before it even moves the TOB. this can possibly explain why it takes a pump to get the clutch pressurized enough to push the fork back that far. BUT! after a few pumps, the peddle does feel exactly how it should, and always has. the fork gets pushed back to the same spot that it always has (going by visual memory), and the clutch is seemingly dis-engaged. tomorrow, i will be checking to see if it is disengaged enough to allow slip. i'll test by starting the engine and pushing the clutch in and seeing if i can make the sound of the spinning front shaft go away. please throw some ideas at me. it's strange. the fact that i can push the fork by hand is strange. but the fact that after a pump, i can get it to feel normal is strange. i don't see what i could have put back together wrong. i even tested it while the tranny was on the floor to make sure everything was moving right. it's such a simple mechanism!

n/m. stupid question

thanks. i'll look for it

i have a question to add to this. i've used duplicolor or whatever to go from gray to black, and yellow to black. so i know the black one works. buy i'm sceptical about going from black to tan with this stuff. i would love to have parts of my interior tan. any experience with this?

i use the brand of "dye" from advanced auto, and have great results. not the best for leather, because it wears off my leather seats about every 3 weeks, but for all else, it is great. i think it's called duplicolor or something like that. has the nice modern style spray nozzel that doesn't clog as easily

i'd like to add a bit to the area of the PTU recal. that recal must have been ended because i tried to have the dealer give me a free series two and they wouldn't do it. they said my car had no recal. it's a 1990, and i know it had the series one, because i needed an adapter to get the new one to fit

ok.... don't mess with your tentioner. don't let fluid out, and don't try to run the car with anything on the tentioner broken. that is one of the most vital components of the car. get a new tentioner. now, it rotated back left you say? what? a few inches? or the marks did? the marks will not be lining up anymore, after it has turned over a few times. you will be lucky to get it lined up like that again just by turning the engine over. if it just turned back a few inches, that was just the engine settling due to compression. maybe i mis understood your question though

no i did not know that. thanks a lot. actually, the reason i started with this forum was because i saw a lot of members here from the east, and my original forum, zdriver, has a lot of people from the west and mid-west, and only 2 or 3 from the east. thanks a lot

thanks

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=699268&forum=technical&dtSearch=0

i got tired of the hole in that dash, so i had a local sign maker/artist print me up a custom decal and rubbed it on a carbon fiber back. i like it a lot. what do you all think? BTW, i'm new here, so this is kinda my introductory thread, and i have recently made this, so i'm still a bit exited about it. i go to ODU, in norfolk VA, and i've been on forums here and there for a while now, but i'm new to this one