dirtbiker245

This may be a long shot, but my company is interested in a LZ22E Piston. Its okay if you only have one as I just need a sample of one for a new product that we are developing. It can be used and abused, so long as its still okay to make measurements off of. Phone: (818)585-3177.

thanks for the link j.soileau!

geez, i wish I would have known about that before hand. Being that I have already made this really custom CLEAN looking plexiglass bracket that holds all the coil packs and looks really good in the engine bay as well... i still think im gonna go with this custom one, so I need to still figure out which side is ground and which is for power.

while that does sound like a good idea. Im trying to use what I already have. I dont want to be wasting a set of perfectly good coils. No need to go buy new ones when these work fine. Basically, Im not trying to be cheap, but I dont feel the need to go buy new coils when I already have a set. hope that makes sense. Any ideas on which is positive and which is negative? or anybody know a way to possibbly ohm test it to find out?

I am working on a 240 turbo setup that had a TecII ecu on it. I am converting it to a megasquirt setup because the ECU went out on the TecII. I am planning on using the coil packs that mounted on the TecII ( I have made a bracket out of plastic that holds all the coil packs and has holes to put pins into the connections on the back of the coil packs). the problem is that I cant tell which pin is ground and which is for the positive feed. NO, IT IS NOT MARKED. im not an idiot. lol. any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks! and theres a picture attached for reference.

JC, again, those stock setups have some kind of filter before the pump. Some kind of SCREEN to get big things out. Its not a fine filter, but it has SOMETHING. The problem here is that I have a STRAIGHT line coming out of the bottom of the tank with NO filtering, NO screen, NOTHING. I think ive got it figured out though nonetheless. Im just gonna try a walbro and i'll let you guys know how it works out.

Jc, no matter how clean I make the tank and how perfect i get the tank.. hell, it could be a brand new tank, it still is a good idea to have SOME kind of screen/filter to help keep big stuff out that could have come in just from contaminated fuel at a gas pump. Thats all I am looking for. Every tank I have ever worked on has some kind of screen thats usually at the pickup IN the tank. Unfortunately, with this setup, I am unable to do the conventional in tank screen on the pickup so im looking for a inline type filter. I'll check out summit. Thanks for the info

I want it there so as to not worry about debris getting in the pump and wrecking it. I have a filter AFTER the pump but I had a pump fail and I think it was due to sediments in the tank. This fuel tank has been modified by the previous owner to have the fuel pickup on the ABSOLUTE bottom of the tank so instead of debris piling up on the bottom of the tank, it goes straight into the pump. What would you suggestions be to my situation? Should i just run a walbro with no filter and hope for the best?

also, keep in mind on z32 clutches, there is 2 spots to bleed the air out of the lines and if you dont use both, you wont get all the air out. 1 of the spots is the slave cylinder. The other spot is under the hood of the car on the passenger side inner fender. Its a metal line that comes up to a metal block of sorts that has a bleed valve on it. NOTE: I have only ever seen this bleed port on TWIN TURBO Z's. Alot of guys take this bleed point line out to clean up the engine bay, but if yours is still there, you will want to bleed it, that will probably be your problem.... hope that helps!

sorry, its for a 1970 240z with a 280turbo l28. And to clarify, I want to put the filter between the tank and the pump so on the LOW pressure side of the pump. The problem is that the tank has a 12mm outlet and the pump has a 12mm inlet, SO I want an inline filter that preserves the 12mm flow size so as not to restrict flow. Hope that makes more sense and clarifies anything that you werent sure about.

Im gonna be running a 255lph walbro in-line pump on my turbo setup. Im trying to find a good in-line filter that has a 12mm inlet and 12mm out and wont be too restrictive. Does anybody know of a place to buy one offhand? Thanks for your help!

im actually experiencing almost the same problem right now! Ive got a 70 240 with a 280 turbo motor in it. The pump keeps somehow getting air. Then I hear it cavitating and then the pump dies on me... :-/ Ive been through two pumps before I realized this is what was going on. after seeing one person suggest it could be a crack in the line that under pressure is letting air in, im gonna just go get a completely new tank to pump line. Good luck with correcting your problem... i'll keep you updated on mine too and let you know if I get it fixed. Dont worry, you arent the only person to ever experience this!

Im currently taking apart an r180 rear end and have encountered some difficulty removing the half shaft FLANGES from the differential. I got them to move in and out a VERY small amount but am unable to get them to pull all the way out of the differential which im pretty sure is the way they are supposed to be removed. Does anybody have any hints or tips on removing them? and does anybody know of any DIY guides somewhere on this site or online? I couldnt find any so far. Thank you for all your help!

Glad you got that figured out. I hope that doesnt turn into a heat problem with the turbo SO close to the master cylinder. Its gonna be heating up your brake fluid before you even push the brakes... lol. Something to think about. I would try and come up with some kinda good heat shield to keep it insulated or you might find yourself in a world of problems.

any pictures of some rims on cars?

So... My dad has this 70 240z with a 280z turbo motor with aftermarket turbo running 10psi boost with tec2 ecu, electromotive ignition, 3 inch exhaust all the way back and other various supporting mods.. Basically its pretty well built.. So, our problem is it has STOCKER rims on it, which do look fine, but obviously we need some more rubber on the ground cause its not cutting it AT ALL!!! What do you guys suggest for rims? He drives the car MOSTLY on the track but does take it for drives occasionally. He wants something that will keep the stock look/feel and not look STUPID obviously. But we are looking for something that is ALOT lighter and wider so we can get more rubber on the ground. Basically... give me some rim recommendations with that information. And PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if you have any pictures, they would be much appreciated. Thanks guys!

thanks alot guys! i'll pm you my number so you can forward it to him in case he lost it....

I paid stevosupremo for a racer brown cam he had advertised, and after talking to him, he said he also had a head for sale. I paid him for BOTH the head and the cam... and... he seems to have dissapeared.. he had over 300 posts on the forum... so im guessing hes a good guy... does anybody know him? possibly give him a call? I wanted to email him but the email thing is blocked....

wow, thanks willens, that mws thing is AMAZING. The videos are really nice, and very thorough.... yes it doesnt cover EVERY nit-picky detail, but it is a great help to see the swap be performed and to get an idea of what will be involved in the swap I got excited just watching it!

This page has EVERYTHING you are looking for.... http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1049892 Also, I am currently doing this swap. For you to be able to successfully swap it all out and do everything "right" I would suggest looking for a totalled TT car that you can use as a donor car. That way you will have everything that you need RIGHT there. If you buy each piece individually, just the turbos alone will put you up around a grand... down pipes, intercoolers, intercooler piping... Id reccomend oil cooler (the stock tt has an oil cooler) recirc or blow off valves, boost controller OR upgraded ecu... Its more involved then you would think.... ive been planning on my swap for over 2 years and just now am going to start wrenching away on it... If you have any questions... feel free to ask... Im going to be swapping the TT motor, oil cooler, intercoolers, ecu, and transmission into a 2+2. I dont claim, nor do I know even CLOSE to everything about this topic... but ive done alot of research and I know my fair share... Good luck!