reintr0ducing
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Posts posted by reintr0ducing
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Mines is fubar'ed. Looking for one in decent shape. I also would need shipping to Honolulu, HI 96813.
If you have one you want to get rid of, please email me at lancesugiyama@gmail.com as I rarely check PM's
Thanks
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Please disregard, found what I needed! Thanks Eric!
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No longer available. I didn't hear from you and I cut it in two when I cut the roof off.
Bummer! I totally forgot to check forums. If anybody else is chopping up a car please text or email me! Contact info is in the first post
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Anybody chopping up a Z? Looking for the metal behind and under the c pillar since mines is rusty.
For some reason I can't upload pics on my phone so email me lancesugiyama@gmail.com or text 808-381-2074 and I can send you pics of what I need.
Thanks!
PLEASE EMAIL OR TEXT ME IF YOU HAVE WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR! I rarely jump on forums anymore 808-381-2074 or lancesugiyama@gmail.com
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Trying to figure out where I'm having problems on swapping my '76 280 (automatic) to SU's. I've been searching for the last couple of hours...
Disconnected all the efi harness connectors on the drivers side (injectors, afm, cold start, water temp sensors to cold start) but left the ecu and the other half of the harness untouched for now, unbolted the manifold and swapped on my spare round top su's. Changed out the pump for a low pressure and a regulator.
Turned key and click. No power to fuel pump and no crank from the starter. My friend plugs in the big connector under the (disconnected) AFM and the fuel pump powers on with the key in the on position but still no crank.
At this point it's late so we call it a night for dinner and beer.
Sitting in my favorite chair armed with my iPad and a six pack of Guinness, I learned most people wire the fuel pump to turn on with either a switch or the key in the on position (which will still pump in the event of an accident, I know). Will work on that next time I work on the car. What I've been trying to search for is why the starter won't kick over. Electricity is black magic and wizardry to me but my friend is helping me with that end. Should we be looking into the neutral safety switch being that this is an auto? Jumper wire to the starter? Also, anything else I'm missing in the whole swap to carbs process?
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Just wanted to throw out some options I have found while dealing with my car.
Panels and Patch Panels:
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=30
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02o04b
https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal
Glass Panels:
http://www.ztrix.com/other-z-zx-parts/
Glass and Carbon Panels:
http://retro-spec.myshopify.com/collections/datsun
Frame Rails and Floor Pans:
http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_4&zenid=eb291577759b57b38408d098266790cc
Thanks, didn't realize MSA was cheaper than Tabco. Really hoping somebody has a solid parts car they're cutting up so I can save some money though.
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Before I send all my money to tabco I figure I'll try here first. Looking for good metal from the bottom of the car (rockers, front and rear lower fenders, and door skin). I would need shipping to Honolulu, HI 96813 also.
Thanks,
Lance
EDIT: I'M ALSO LOOKING FOR DECENT CONDITION 240Z FRONT TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLIES.
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Trying to convert my 510 to ZX hardware. I need the front hubs to finish up my front coilover set up and in the rear I'm looking for later model parts ('82-'83). The consumable parts I'm buying new (rotors, pads, etc.), but the ebrake handle, cables, proportioning valve, clips, bolts, etc. would be great.
I live in Hawaii (96813) so please add shipping costs into your asking price... I think most everything should easily fit into a USPS flat rate box or two.
Best way to get a hold of me is through email:
lancesugiyama@gmail.com
Thanks!
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ssr longchamps 15x7.5 -8 fronts and 15x8 -14 rear. i've got a pair of 20mm project kics spacers i'm gonna throw on the front to cure the sunkeness, until a wider pair of 'champs can be had at a reasonable price. this is with techno toy tuning coilover and camber plates.
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doesnt Modern Motor Sports make this hub you are looking for? I was looking to do the samething.
another problem with modern motorsports parts is that it seems like ross doesn't want to take my money and sell me stuff.
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i'll take your old ones for a little project that i'm doing. can be your old ones, take off's from when you did an engine swap or whatever, basically as long as they're still in decent enough shape to not fall apart.
mahalo!
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There's two holes at about the same level as the 510 emblem on the left side, but I'm not sure what's supposed to be there. I'm starting to think it may have been some emblem put on by a dealer at some point.
i know this is an old build thread and idk if you're still working on the goon, but the emblem holes are where there used to be a "nissan automatic" emblem. can't find a picture of it right now though...
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Very slow. It's kinda like watching paint dry lol. It takes two weeks to fill up a page. All I can say is as soon as hybridz changed servers/ website this rb forum went down hill fast. I don't know about the other sections.
i noticed a lot of the automotive related blogs that i follow have slowed down big time too. they used to all be updated daily but now once a week, if that.
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i've got a question for the brake gurus. i really wanted to order the modern motorsports 240sx rear brake kit because sx parts are so readily available. i've tried to contact ross for the last couple of months but have received no answer. i know a few people run 240sx rears with custom brackets... i was wondering, what brackets do people use? the offset maxima brackets that are modified? (i assume they would have to be modded as it clearly states in the MM information page that the offset from the standard maxima bracket would not allow use of 240sx calipers. can anybody confirm or deny this?
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there's always a demand for stuff like this. try posting it on club4ag.com too... although it's not "jDm TyTe Yo", the hachi guys are crazy for deep dished rims. and jack the price up on them. hahaha.
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damn, i just read through 21 pages of your thread and the easy wiring guide for the RB25. my brain is fried but i want to try an RB swap so bad. hahaha. is it just me or a bunch of your older pictures not loading?
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So goes business.
Those fake Greddy manifolds are what we call "Freddy" manifolds.
I've seen some studies on them several years back. One guy cut one in half and showed how horrible the ports were inside. He had to grind away a bunch of material to clean it up. It looked like a porcupine died in the port or something.
The cheap casting was so porous that it was causing leaks in the middle between runners. There was no way to identify this until you really inspected it very closely. Once you apply a ton of boost pressure, it would be blowing air right out those holes... wasting power, and causing the engine to run rich for no apparent reason.
Once he fixed all that and welded it back together, it worked. He then said he'd buy the more expensive one next time and avoid all the trouble.
There are 'good' knock-off parts out there. You have to research them and find people showing good results from them before you try, though. I personally don't run any. There are name brands that are not Japanese that produce great quality parts... as the Japanese gouge their prices really bad.
You wonder why companies like Apexi and Trust are at risk of going out of business? How about the exorbitant prices they charge for their parts? Lot's of the R&D involved is simply buying a part from an American company and stamping their name on it. Then they double the price. I'm not going to start listing specific parts here, but I discovered a lot of dead-on rebadged American parts in Japan when I lived there for 5 years. We ordered as much as we could from the states to save money.
JDM = BS. If you can get the part elsewhere, go for it. Even the Japanese manufacturers are moving all their production out to China. (actually, the likely beat us to the punch, as they are right next door and shipping costs a lot less)
i agree with you. i'm not saying apexi, trust, etc. are the best. i'm just using it as an example. another example i was reading about would be skunk2 and asr (both american companies) getting their designs counterfeited and lesser quality parts branded as theirs. i do agree with you on a lot of companies overcharging for their (JDM) name. personally, if a american made or no name company can make a product that is as good or better (with quality and proof that it works), then of course i will consider them.
http://www.topsecretjpn.com/accessories.shtml
lol @ the last product listed. i love top secret a ton, but would never pay $295 for a SHIFT BOOT.
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burninator is correct. the name branded parts will almost always have tons of research and development behind the part to make sure it's a quality part. i've experienced/seen/heard way too many horror stories of generic parts not working as they should or even damaging the car.
for a personal example, on my old mr2 turbo i installed a trd replica short shifter and it sucked. it refused to get into gear, sometimes it would pop out of gear and back into neutral, etc. i then purchased a genuine trd short shifter and it worked like it was supposed to. the replica was a huge waste of 50 bucks for me as i couldn't even sell it after to anyone to the mr2 community for $20.
also i refuse to buy replica parts because they rob the companies that put the money into the R&D. case in point: voltex (one of the BEST jdm aero makers in the biz) stopped selling CF hoods for the evo 8 and 9 in the US because seibon ripped off the design and undercut the price. sure everyone knows if you can sell a product for less, that's business. however, voltex windtunnel tests their aero and is crafted in japan, while seibon copies designs and is made in china.
if replica companies keep copying designs then how long will the big companies be able to afford the R&D to keep putting out quality parts?
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quick question for you. i've just installed nearly the same suspension set up in my 240z. i've got techno toy tuning camber plates and top hats, ground control coilovers, shortened struts with tokico illumina mr2 shocks in the front and 240z shocks in the rear. i'm not too sure what brand my bumpsteer spacers are (previous owner installed them). i've got everything welded up and sitting tight, but everytime i hit a bump or a patch of bad road (lots of them where i live), i get all kinds of rattles. is your set up like this? is there anything i can do to combat this?
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fantastic tool! the spindle pin came out with very little effort. not too sure if it's because my car doesn't see the rain very often or if the suspension was redone recently, but it came out with no problem.
MAHALO JOHN!
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trying mines out tomorrow! will report back with results!
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Something like this: (are these indians?)
those are SSR MKIII. the places i always go to drool is:
club4ag forum (hachi guys, same 4x114.3 and they always have good jdm wheels)
infinitwheels.com (so cal based shop. good selection, not too much deep dish though)
rbmotoring.com (kind of like infinit, but with less 4x114.3 and more 17's 18's and 19's)
rarejdmwheels.blogspot.com (guy is based out of malaysia i think. fantastic pricing (even with shipping), great packaging and quality wheels although he caters more towards toyota owners. he stocks a lot of TOM'S wheels.)
i found my SSR longchamps on club4ag for a good price ($900, $1100 shipped to hawaii). 15x7.5 -7 and 15x8 -14. not as crazy as some people, but i'm stuffing these under stock fenders. i'm too much of a wuss to cut up my fenders for flares even though i <3 flares.
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Z family,
I am getting tooled up to make another batch of pullers does anybody else need/want one?
If so just let me know.
Thanks,
John
i may need one as well!
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Looks like EM-Automotive is out of biz-or at least no more info left on them. No items for sale on ebay, no web site history. Would like to do some research on the other higher end brands however about the different options. It would be nice to say I have tein, or apexi coils on my car
that's what i was thinking. it'd be nice to be able to say that i have some ohlins (my favorites!), but any higher end coilovers would push the price up which would defeat the purpose of this being a cheap mod. i ended up choosing ground controls because for the price to build my own coilovers like this with coils of my choice just doesn't make sense. why try to backyard a suspension with no guarantee that it'll really work when you can go with a proven set up?
it really was a tough choice though. the inner fan boy in me died a little. hahaha.
MSA Weatherstrip kit review
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I'm going to bump this up because I'm in the process of purchasing a weatherstripping kit for my 280z. Has anybody purchased a kit from a vender recently can give a testimonial to it's fit? Do the Precision seals still have a gap in the windshield? I'm going the Kia route for the doorseals but will need every other seal.