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Everything posted by reintr0ducing

  1. I'm going to bump this up because I'm in the process of purchasing a weatherstripping kit for my 280z. Has anybody purchased a kit from a vender recently can give a testimonial to it's fit? Do the Precision seals still have a gap in the windshield? I'm going the Kia route for the doorseals but will need every other seal.
  2. Mines is fubar'ed. Looking for one in decent shape. I also would need shipping to Honolulu, HI 96813. If you have one you want to get rid of, please email me at lancesugiyama@gmail.com as I rarely check PM's Thanks
  3. Please disregard, found what I needed! Thanks Eric!
  4. Bummer! I totally forgot to check forums. If anybody else is chopping up a car please text or email me! Contact info is in the first post
  5. Anybody chopping up a Z? Looking for the metal behind and under the c pillar since mines is rusty. For some reason I can't upload pics on my phone so email me lancesugiyama@gmail.com or text 808-381-2074 and I can send you pics of what I need. Thanks! PLEASE EMAIL OR TEXT ME IF YOU HAVE WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR! I rarely jump on forums anymore 808-381-2074 or lancesugiyama@gmail.com
  6. Trying to figure out where I'm having problems on swapping my '76 280 (automatic) to SU's. I've been searching for the last couple of hours... Disconnected all the efi harness connectors on the drivers side (injectors, afm, cold start, water temp sensors to cold start) but left the ecu and the other half of the harness untouched for now, unbolted the manifold and swapped on my spare round top su's. Changed out the pump for a low pressure and a regulator. Turned key and click. No power to fuel pump and no crank from the starter. My friend plugs in the big connector under the (disconnected) AFM and the fuel pump powers on with the key in the on position but still no crank. At this point it's late so we call it a night for dinner and beer. Sitting in my favorite chair armed with my iPad and a six pack of Guinness, I learned most people wire the fuel pump to turn on with either a switch or the key in the on position (which will still pump in the event of an accident, I know). Will work on that next time I work on the car. What I've been trying to search for is why the starter won't kick over. Electricity is black magic and wizardry to me but my friend is helping me with that end. Should we be looking into the neutral safety switch being that this is an auto? Jumper wire to the starter? Also, anything else I'm missing in the whole swap to carbs process?
  7. Thanks, didn't realize MSA was cheaper than Tabco. Really hoping somebody has a solid parts car they're cutting up so I can save some money though.
  8. Before I send all my money to tabco I figure I'll try here first. Looking for good metal from the bottom of the car (rockers, front and rear lower fenders, and door skin). I would need shipping to Honolulu, HI 96813 also. Thanks, Lance EDIT: I'M ALSO LOOKING FOR DECENT CONDITION 240Z FRONT TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLIES.
  9. Trying to convert my 510 to ZX hardware. I need the front hubs to finish up my front coilover set up and in the rear I'm looking for later model parts ('82-'83). The consumable parts I'm buying new (rotors, pads, etc.), but the ebrake handle, cables, proportioning valve, clips, bolts, etc. would be great. I live in Hawaii (96813) so please add shipping costs into your asking price... I think most everything should easily fit into a USPS flat rate box or two. Best way to get a hold of me is through email: lancesugiyama@gmail.com Thanks!
  10. ssr longchamps 15x7.5 -8 fronts and 15x8 -14 rear. i've got a pair of 20mm project kics spacers i'm gonna throw on the front to cure the sunkeness, until a wider pair of 'champs can be had at a reasonable price. this is with techno toy tuning coilover and camber plates.
  11. another problem with modern motorsports parts is that it seems like ross doesn't want to take my money and sell me stuff.
  12. i'll take your old ones for a little project that i'm doing. can be your old ones, take off's from when you did an engine swap or whatever, basically as long as they're still in decent enough shape to not fall apart. mahalo!
  13. just a heads up, those are ssr formula mesh. formula meshies have the stepped lip, while reverse mesh will have a flat lip.
  14. i had these before i found a pair of gradient old school recaros. great seat, i loved um, but mines needed to be redone as well. $650 is cheap! someone pick these up asap!
  15. i know this is an old build thread and idk if you're still working on the goon, but the emblem holes are where there used to be a "nissan automatic" emblem. can't find a picture of it right now though...
  16. i noticed a lot of the automotive related blogs that i follow have slowed down big time too. they used to all be updated daily but now once a week, if that.
  17. i've got a question for the brake gurus. i really wanted to order the modern motorsports 240sx rear brake kit because sx parts are so readily available. i've tried to contact ross for the last couple of months but have received no answer. i know a few people run 240sx rears with custom brackets... i was wondering, what brackets do people use? the offset maxima brackets that are modified? (i assume they would have to be modded as it clearly states in the MM information page that the offset from the standard maxima bracket would not allow use of 240sx calipers. can anybody confirm or deny this?
  18. there's always a demand for stuff like this. try posting it on club4ag.com too... although it's not "jDm TyTe Yo", the hachi guys are crazy for deep dished rims. and jack the price up on them. hahaha.
  19. damn, i just read through 21 pages of your thread and the easy wiring guide for the RB25. my brain is fried but i want to try an RB swap so bad. hahaha. is it just me or a bunch of your older pictures not loading?
  20. i agree with you. i'm not saying apexi, trust, etc. are the best. i'm just using it as an example. another example i was reading about would be skunk2 and asr (both american companies) getting their designs counterfeited and lesser quality parts branded as theirs. i do agree with you on a lot of companies overcharging for their (JDM) name. personally, if a american made or no name company can make a product that is as good or better (with quality and proof that it works), then of course i will consider them. http://www.topsecretjpn.com/accessories.shtml lol @ the last product listed. i love top secret a ton, but would never pay $295 for a SHIFT BOOT.
  21. burninator is correct. the name branded parts will almost always have tons of research and development behind the part to make sure it's a quality part. i've experienced/seen/heard way too many horror stories of generic parts not working as they should or even damaging the car. for a personal example, on my old mr2 turbo i installed a trd replica short shifter and it sucked. it refused to get into gear, sometimes it would pop out of gear and back into neutral, etc. i then purchased a genuine trd short shifter and it worked like it was supposed to. the replica was a huge waste of 50 bucks for me as i couldn't even sell it after to anyone to the mr2 community for $20. also i refuse to buy replica parts because they rob the companies that put the money into the R&D. case in point: voltex (one of the BEST jdm aero makers in the biz) stopped selling CF hoods for the evo 8 and 9 in the US because seibon ripped off the design and undercut the price. sure everyone knows if you can sell a product for less, that's business. however, voltex windtunnel tests their aero and is crafted in japan, while seibon copies designs and is made in china. if replica companies keep copying designs then how long will the big companies be able to afford the R&D to keep putting out quality parts?
  22. quick question for you. i've just installed nearly the same suspension set up in my 240z. i've got techno toy tuning camber plates and top hats, ground control coilovers, shortened struts with tokico illumina mr2 shocks in the front and 240z shocks in the rear. i'm not too sure what brand my bumpsteer spacers are (previous owner installed them). i've got everything welded up and sitting tight, but everytime i hit a bump or a patch of bad road (lots of them where i live), i get all kinds of rattles. is your set up like this? is there anything i can do to combat this?
  23. fantastic tool! the spindle pin came out with very little effort. not too sure if it's because my car doesn't see the rain very often or if the suspension was redone recently, but it came out with no problem. MAHALO JOHN!
  24. trying mines out tomorrow! will report back with results!
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