[Body work... 18 gauge sheet???]

I used a 18 guage section for the rocker panels on my car and it worked great. However, I tried forming over the old battery tray rot with the same metal and I found that I couldn't stretch or pull the metal like I wanted so I switched to 22 gauge and made it happen. However, I am no body shop pro. I would assume 20-22 gauge would work fine. Good luck

[Spark Plug Wire Routing Options on an L28]

This looks so much better than having the wires go across the top of the motor, I guess I'm going to have to add these MSD wires to the list.

 

I think thats the best option. Heres the direct datsunspirit link for anyone interested.

http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=43

[Spark Plug Wire Routing Options on an L28]

That actually looks like an L6 wire set. From the factory they were wired over the valve cover. Those little bolt holes on the top are for tabs which hold clamps that separate the wires. As far as the longer wires, I personally can't help you, but I have seen them routed around the front. Here's a thread that dealt with a similar subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128816

 

Thanks alot blue72. I dont know how I missed that thread in my search. I am glad that routing them over the top is not a problem, I think I will just pick up some better wire separators and clean up the routing a bit. Thanks again

[3" Exhaust L28E N/A]

I ran a 3 inch straight pipe set up on my L28 (Dual SUs, hot street cam, 6-1 long tube headers,) and it was absurd. I recently switched to a 2.5" system and have the exhaust exiting before the drivers side rear wheel. It's still way to loud to be considered a daily driver, but my car is more of a dedicated loud toy anyways. Power response seems to be better than the 3" system, but I have no dyno results to back up that claim. Regardless, in my experience, any straight pipe system on a L6 is going to be foolish loud, but the 2.5" had more of a race motor sound and the 3" was so loud you could hardly make sense of it. Unless one was building a full on race car or going forced induction, I would echo the opinion of others on this board and stick to the 2.5".

[Spark Plug Wire Routing Options on an L28]

I already made the mistake myself and bought what I thought was a Taylor wireset for my L28 and was dissapointed to find that it was an universal wireset for a 6 cyl. Due to the length of the inline 6 and the placement of the distributor on the opposite side, the wires are not long enough to run without draping them across the valve cover. See picture below (warning: do not look if you are disgusted by a cluttered engine bay )

 

 

So it begs the question, where can you find a wire set that fits? I have seen others with a neat, clean and organized routing around the front of the valve cover and down the side of the head. I understand that most ignition companies produce "custom" D.I.Y. sets of wires and boots, but does any company make a set that is already properly measured? I do not think that my valve cover will get hot enough to damage the wires, but if I do need another set, I would like to get the right one. I couldn't find anything from Taylor, MSD or Accel. Any other options? What do you guys use? Thanks in advance.

[Fuel Pressure : Return Line?]

nobody knows the answer to this question? I have looked around the internet and my service manuals for a while I still can't find what I need to know. I am ordering the plumbing on tuesday so I suppose I will just have to throw together a return. Any help before then would be fantastic. Thanks

[Fuel Pressure : Return Line?]

I have a L28 with a mild cam, headers and dual flat top SU carbs. I am running a Holley Blue fuel pump and a holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am starting to plumb the fuel system from the cell and I am wondering if I need to run a return line. Most of my research has confirmed that anything over 7psi of fuel pressure to the carbs has to run a return. The FPR has a range of 5-9 psi. Can I run 5psi with my setup and skip the return? Do I need to run 7 or higher? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[Nitrous L28]

Hello everyone. I am a new member (been reading the forums for some time) but now I humbly ask for some info I havent been able to find on my own. I plan on introducing my project properly with documentation of the build in the near future, but for now, here is a quick bit of background info on the cobbled together project: 73 240z with a R200 with some 3.91s, 1978 N/A L28 with a 5 speed tranny, dual SU carbs, long tube header, mild cam (do not have exact specs,) stock internals and rebuilt to stock specs 2000 miles ago with the exception of the cam and a mild port and polish of the heads. I plan to autocross the car in the summer but I want to install a nitrous kit for a bit more fun while not competing. I had great success running a small 50 shot on my VW 2.1L 16V, but that was with a fully built motor and DIGI 1 fuel. So what I am wondering is if the crank in the L28 can take a 50, 75 or 100 shot and any experience people have had with this. I understand that common wisdom involves triple carbs, forced induction or a V8 as the next logical step, but I have this love of the spray. Is this sort of set up rare due to the above wisdom, or is it rare because it doesnt work well? I will be running a 140gph fuel pump but I wasnt going to run a seperate/aux fuel system for the nitrous. I have never ran or installed nitrous on a carb set up and any help or suggestion of maintaining or even reaching the extra few psi of fuel pressure without a controller would also be appreciated. The system is very basic and I am planning on running it on a WOT switch for the occasional 1/4 track day. Thanks in advance for the help.