zclubhouse
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Posts posted by zclubhouse
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Something is up with Pontiac GrandAm drivers, I don't understand. I swear I get 4 idiots a week trying to shift automatics into neutral so they can rev their fearsome motor at me. Absurd. Everyone else tends to leave me alone, for which I am grateful.
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Doh! That's what I didn't do
. I'll read up in my manual and online to see if reversing the polarity is required (you're probably right though).I need to weld a -6AN bung to my upper thermostat housing soon...hopefully it will turn out okay.
Nismopick, yes it was homemade. I shortened a wand to ~3 feet and there was no "birds nest" from the aluminum spool.
Be careful when you weld the -6 fitting. I tried to weld a 7075 (I think?) -6 fitting from goodridge to my valve cover (cast alum) and it didnt go so well. Granted I'm a mediocre TIG welder at best, but the fitting would flow before I could get anything happening on the valve cover even with preheating it. At least it was just for an oil catch can, the weld would have never passed for any structural purposes. Maybe you guys know someway around this issue of welding two types of aluminum together?
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My car idles warm at 10, as soon as you get on the throttle its up from there until it hits about 70 lbs around 4k. It holds this pressure till redline and then its back down to 10 again for idle. I haven't had any problems at all, my motor has about 5k on it and I am running full synthetic 10w-30.
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All the triumphs and MGs in your area teleport it so they can continue the eternal leak...
Seriously though, a couple of quarts?
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Theres the distinction between "Ive got the car and the car's got me!" Mere mortals lift while crazy folk keep it to the boards during 160+mph wheel spinning/bump steering/ spastic steering input whatever the hell you call it craziness. I was expecting a K-rail pinball session the entire time. You know its nuts when youtube has you crying for your mother.
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I am far and away from being a SU guru, but I was under the impression that if a SU is tuned properly you should have a slight rpm increase that settles back down to normal speed? Other than checking for vacuum leaks, I would start with normal tune up procedures so you can isolate the carb variable. A fouled plug or two and you will never be able to tune it proper.
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Well after somewhat finishing my car I decided to finally bring the thing down to school. I had maybe 100 miles of shake down/testing on it and so I was a bit nervous about doing the milwaukee to indy trip, but I am so glad I did. No gas gauge / ?mpg / no odometer made for an interesting situation at 1am in wabash (see B.F.E.), but for once in my life a cop actually helped me out! I sure I am preaching to the choir here but there is nothing that brings you close to your car then your first long trip together. Regardless of how my back felt after many hours in a worn out corbeau clubman, I had a great time. I only took the freeway to get through chicago and bushwhacked the rest. I can't say it ran awesome, but it ran, so I am pleased to be down here and reunited once again with my rusty pride and joy. Quite a few strange looks from farmers and a few idiots in GrandAms who take FnF too literally, but it was great. Really a surreal experience to drive roads you have never seen before, downshifting as much as possible not because you need to, but because you want to hear it, and constantly taking crazy spur of the moment detours searching for 20mph corner signs. So glad I drove it and didn't trailer it.
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Latest EP motor off the dyno
Haha very cool, but good luck getting that one past tech! How does that thing run?
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I have the orginal article kicking around here somewhere, I'm 95% sure it was in a copy of popular mechanics... Sound familiar? I know this won't help the hardcore tech discussion, but if I can find it I'll scan it for an interesting read. It's been a few years since that came out, but if I remember right, this indian guy was making significant imporvements to the crapola super econoboxes india produces. But take it with a grain of salt because when the story went to print he was trying to get meeting with some bigtime automakers and the engineers were shooting him down. I am assuming that there's a big gap between making a glorified gokart burn poor quality gas a bit better and making improvements over high end engineering. Keep in mind that we are talking about a guy with a dusty dremel vs. flow benches and engineering degrees....
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Two months ago I tore apart both my carbs like a 4 year old on christmas and of course now I do not have the foggest idea how to hook up the linkage between the throtlle shaft and the choke adjustment. Now that I have cleaned every part and rebuilt the carbs, I am stuck unless I plan on hiring a midget to sit on my valve cover with two pliers. The diagrams in the books I have differ from the appearance of the the linkage components on my carbs. I think my carbs are properly described as 4 bolt roundtop SU hitachis. That being said, does anyone have a parts fiche diagram they can help me out with? I'm thinking that possibly the blow-out diagram in the haynes manual might be a start, however I left my manual at school:(. I have looked around a bit on this site and using google, but still haven't found what I need. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Naaaa..there are many you can trust. Just dont be naive and use your noggin!
Just a quick little detour along those lines... Friend of mine in high school gets his drivers lisence, takes mom's brand new car to school the very next day. In order to impress a girl, he lets her drive "his" car to lunch. No sooner did she leave the school parking lot when she wraps it around a stoplight pole, tearing the pole out of the ground and flipping the car on its top. Apparently camry solaras cant handle city block turns at 60... And she didn't even have her temps yet! Many lessons to be learned there...
Now back to our regular programming....
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Its a tough act to follow, little embarassing to post my insignificant powerplant! At least I now have a pretty red anodized mallory ignition box to liven it up a bit and draw the attention momentarily away from the rust/dirt/grossness
I painted the vacuum chamber and fuel bowls of my SU carbs high temp balck with a clear gloss so that should help the eye candy factor out a bit. Should be back on this next week once I figure out/remember how to put the throttle linkage back together
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I would store it at your buddy's place. You don't NEED to have the car within 5 minutes of you at all times, it's just more convenient. You also don't NEED to work on the car, it's just fun to do so, since I'm assuming it's not your DD. Doesn't sound like it is. IMO, the extra charge for a place with a garage sounds like a luxury fee in this case just to keep your Z close.
Thats true. Obviously its pretty sweet to be able to step out into the personal haven for a hour every now and then, but nothing is lost if the car sits for a while. And being at school prepared me for the concept of limited tinkering time. But I still miss it, I can amuse myself by the hour just poking around in my personal kingdom. Nothing beats the feeling of finishing the 6th one and realizing you have just spent 4 hours and accomplished about 30 minutes worth of work
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Calling all hybridz members who have some much needed wisdom on this matter! Finishing school in may and getting married in june. Been looking for places to live (in indianapolis where my fiance will go to med school) and I am trying to decide what to do about the garage/z situation. Basically I can rent a place with a decent garage on average for $150 more than a comparable place w/o a garage. Obviously I need a place to keep the car, but a good friend offered to clean out the back bay of his garage for me to keep my car/tools in free of charge in exchange for helping him with fab/wiring work on his car. But my friends place is a solid hour commute from indy. So do I try and stretch the budget and get the garage in these shaky times... wait until we can move into a better place in a year or so... what to do? How to balance the commuting costs/ wifey complaining at me being gone with the car a few nights a week at the distant garage vs. killing the extra car parts budget for a year and renting a place with a garage? Im sure some of you guys have gone through the same thing with getting married and getting a new living situation. (selling the z is NOT an option!) Thankfully she is cool with the car being the third family member (we are driving away from the wedding in it:lol:!) So what do you guys think? How did you work the car/garage into the equation when you first started out? Obviously money is going to be tight (fed school loan bill just came in the mail
) and I'm trying to make the wisest choice. Any advice appreciated. Thanks -
I think BlackDragon sells the inner liner? Not 100% sure but I'll take a look at my catalog tomorrow. Do you need the liner or the whole inner piece (lateral edges of engine bay?)
Heres one option, however at 850 its pretty steep, not sure if this is the piece you need or not? http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-exterior1.html refer to part F? Otherwise arizona z parts has a cutout used listing here http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/56608/catid/7765/Inner_Fender_with_frame_rail__body_cut___70_78__79_83
Is this a 240z or a 280? I thought about going down this route with my car but I'm going to just make my own patch panel instead of replacing the whole thing. Like the other guys said, junkyard would probably be the most cost effective if you want to get the orignial peice. Hope this helps.
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wow
Right by the wheel well!?
Yes sir! Doubles as a seat heater
Nothing like coming of redline at night and seeing the blue cone light up the road in your side view mirror...
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I disagree with the general consensus that a N/A L28 sounds bad without an muffler. I run an equal length header to 2.5" straight that exits through right before the drivers rear wheel. I agree that it is pretty damn loud, however, rowing down through the gears puts a smile on my face everytime. Granted my car is not a daily driver, and by the time I finally get around to driving it I am in the mood for some inline 6 decibels. Ive heard my car through a free flowing muffler and with the straight pipes and the high rpm off throttle transitions sound incredible. True, it would be irresponsible to piss off everybody in your neighborhood and act like a redneck jerk, but I just stay out of the throttle until I'm actually in a place where I can apply it which is generally far away from any population density. So in summary, to each his own but when I'm driving my TDI jetta to school, I'm dreaming about my L28 screaming WOT
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I picked up a mallory hyfire 6al so I do not need a ignition box anymore. Thanks
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You know you don't have to go his route... Just get a Tee fitting from the hardware store and screw it into the oil pressure hole, this way you have pressure and oil in the same spot. I have a Tee that came with mine however I'm using it for a low pressure light, but they should come with any l28et I THINK since the oil to the turbo comes from there.
Atleast mine did.
My oil pressure hole is BSP, and I am running an mechanical temp gauge so it might be more trouble than its worth to get that inside a piece connnected to the tee. I'll take a look at it again when I get back to my car. Thanks
If you have a L28ET, there is already a bung in the pan. You just need to make a metric to NPT adapter. I took the stock L28ET oil temp sensor and drilled it out. I then tapped it to 1/4" NPT so that I could screw my Autometer sender right into it. I have the oil temp gauge mounted where the clock used to be.Pete
Sorry I did not specify that I have a N/A L28. I dont think there is a bung in my pan but in a week when I get back home there probably will be! I put all the 2 5/8" gauges in where the original gauges were too. I made a little aluminum adapter so that I use the autometer mounting bracket but it connects to the orginal support hardare for the oem gauges. Then a little piece of weather stripping behind the gauge bezel trim inside the dash keeps it from vibrating at all. Thanks for the advice anyways. I wish I had a L28et!
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I'm impressed. I like how you tied in the front drivers lower corner cage support with the firewall/front subframe instead of going straight to the floor. IMO that will actually add some stiffness to go with the weight instead of just safety. Well planned, well executed. One question though, why does the main hoop go directly to the left of the drivers head? Does that have to tie into the floor or could you have gone behind the seat/ rear fender wheel area? So stoked on the 5" through the battery location, that is going to redefine rowdy! Good luck with the racing.
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Looking for an ignition box. Brand really doesn't matter; MSD, taylor, crane, mallory, summit... All fine. Doesn't have to have any fancy timing or rev limiter functions, but its fine if it does. Please PM if you have one you want to sell. Looking to spend under $100 if possible. Let me know.
Thanks
Andrew
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Since you didn't post a link to 2savage's thread, and I don't really want to search for you, I'm not sure how his setup worked. But I would just drill a hole in the oil pan, weld in a bung (or nut), and screw in the sensor.
Sorry I forgot
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124065&highlight=oil+temp+sensor
I didn't think about putting the sensor right into the pan, that might be the best. Thanks for the input
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Ive looked around for some options but so far all I have found is 2savage's thread where he buys adaptor #22-565 from Canton and installs the sensor right in the side. That looks like a great idea, however, I am not too excited about spending another $80 to plumb a $50 gauge. I certainly want to have access to my oil temp reading, so is there another way to go? I can't look at my car until spring break (2 weeks) but I wanted to plan ahead so I could get this gauge installed. I'm assuming that the oil system runs BSP threads? Any info/advice on the oiling system would be great (my car has stock oiling, not dry sump.) Thanks.
Andrew
. I'll read up in my manual and online to see if reversing the polarity is required (you're probably right though).
haha
) and I'm trying to make the wisest choice. Any advice appreciated. Thanks
Just bought an aluminum welding kit for my MIG
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Thanks John, good info. However even if 6061 fittings are suitable for welding, how do you weld this to a cast aluminum structure? I understand that the great majority of my problems could be due to operator error/lack of skill, but in my experience I can't ever weld anything to cast.