logr
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Posts posted by logr
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I will go back and look at your build/turbo but those numbers sound great. I love mine with a T28 so those numbers should be fantastic. Glad it is on the road finally. Good luck and have fun BUT keep the shiny side up.
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Beautiful weather in North Idaho so I am leaving the garage door open or I won't get any other chance to see it. I am buried in a race car. The guy wants it ready for a road race in 2 weeks. Finished the lca's and boost pipes yesterday. Need to install the rear suspension and wire the engine today and tomorrow. No rest for the wicked. Have a drifter car to put a bottom end in right after this one. I added one of the new GTX 2863 turbo's to the drifter car and the bottom end lasted 5 days of tearing up the town. He didn't want to spend the money the first time so he has to the second time.
Need to decide if 5 lug and RPF1 17x8.5+30 will fit under stock fenders on a 240z with 300zx fronts and JSK brakes AND if it is too much money to get 245's AND look right too. big decisions
Congratulation on the graduation. You ever autox with SSSCC?
We are all having a better day than the people that this weekend is commemorating!!!!!!
Thanks
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The Oregon Region puts on some great events there. There are normally less racers and more runs at the Oregon region than the Washington region events. http://www.oregonscca.com/content/view/1286/288/
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Here you go.
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I've raced with and known Dieter for 4 years now. He is like most of the autox community, willing to do all they can to help in every way possible. Glad everything worked out.
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There are either bolts, bolt holes or tie downs at the back of the floor, right up against the tail light cover. If there are holes, plug them to stop another leak. There are 2 bolts on each side of center about a foot out.
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It is an easy check. Pull a rear tie down bolt out and shoot in compressed air. If it hits your feet, there is a problem. The only question then is if the rail ends are open inside the car.
Glad this is a help.
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Nothing but satellite available and the people on it say it isn't much better than dial up. It is a down side to living in the boonies of North Idaho, well sort of a downside. It's not that big a deal mostly.
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Ain't it a *****?
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It takes me a long time to upload pics due to dial up but thought I would pass this idea along. I will try to do a pic later. I have an SR but like my intake air to be a cold as possible which can be difficult. I found a stock ZX filter housing(the shorter one but not sure which year yet)will fit in front of the radiator on a 240Z(sort of the stock ZX location). It bolted to the radiator top support for both mounts on one side of the housing and I brought a strap up from the horn bolt for the 3rd one. It is solid as a rock and looks stock while giving my engine cool air and no rain water to worry about. Not sure it would work for 500hp but it works great on a 300hp SR.
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I searched but couldn't find this anywhere so thought I would pass it on.
I have been fighting exhaust in the cabin on my 240 but only when driving with a window down. It has been driving me crazy and from my searching, it is common and usually accepted as part of owning a Z.
I have an SR that is fuel injected and clean burning, getting over 30mpg.
The exhaust goes to the stock location.
The hatch seal is new.
The tail lights are sealed.
All holes are sealed.
It still smelled very badly with a window down UNTIL
I found the rear frame rail that runs side ways under the tail lights was not sealed underneath the car anymore. It is still sealed into the cabin from the top but after much checking I found that there is a hole on each end(rearmost part beside the tail lights and inside the side panels but all the way at the rear bottom)of the rail. You can not see it but you can feel it on both sides. I stuffed some plastic sheeting in both ends to seal it off. This is the same tube that the rear tie downs are bolted into. I blew air into one of the tie down holes and felt it come out the bottom of the car and out of both ends inside the car. That is what convinced me to close off the ends. It solved the exhaust smell completely.
I CAN DRIVE MY Z WITH WINDOWS DOWN AND NOT SMELL EXHAUST. HIP,HIP,HORRAY
Moderators, I did not know where to post this so feel free to move it or delete it if I am the only one that did not know this.
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No pics as I have dial up but I have had an oil pick up tube head break off twice so I thought a heads up would be in order. The early SR Red tops have a brace welded to the tube but Black tops have it welded to the head. The head of the pick up has broken off on 2 Red tops in my shop. There appeared to be no damage so I have attributed it to vibration until a better explanation comes along.
Easy fix is buying a newer pick up or welding a brace to the head of the pick up.
I no longer let an SR leave my shop without the fix as it is cheap insurance.
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I don't have pics handy but I made a cradle that sets on both frame rails. I used the L28 motor mounts but would use the SR ones if I do it again. The mounts should be pretty much the same for both the KA and SR since they bolt into an SX.
For the trany mount I cut the stock support on both sides of the rubber mount and welded a plate in on each side to move the rubber to the correct location.
It is a pretty straight forward easily done swap as swaps go.
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I keep trying to put one back on my SX but always end up taking it back off. I have sure wondered which way is best with a Z. I could see a stock rear with a larger front might be worth trying.
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It's still Datsun, only a newer version.
Not that anything is wrong with going a different direction.
I am very happy with my 240Z T28 SR and it looks stock until you open the hood or get in a race.
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Not the tilt. It has to go out. The forward and backward lever for the whole seat can be on either side. That's the one I don't know about.
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I am recovering my 240Z seats and do not know which side the forward and backward lever goes on. I have seen it both on the outside and the inside. Does anybody know where it should be?
Thanks,logr
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You can get the following performance tires in 225/50-15:
BFG gForce Sport
Falken ZIEX ZE 912 and 512
Toyo Proxes 4
Toyo Proxes RA
Hoosier A6/R6
Yokohama A048
The A6 only comes in 225/45/15 which is less than 23". The R6 comes in the 50 series though.
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Rereading your post, I hope that is what you were looking for, not sure("change it to a wire speedo"). Did you mean cable?
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You can use the cable type from many transmissions from the stock Z one to Datsun pickups. The question will be which one you need to get an accurate speedo. I am using a black gear with an SR and 4.11 diff. I believe there is a link on here about the different ratios and color of the trans gear. You may need to rotate the gear housing a bit to get the gears to mesh well.
Check out my thread on using a 280Z tach in the 240Z housing to get an original looking tach that works with an SR or most any engine, if you are interested.
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I had trouble with my swap too, SR. I tried to keep the angles equal and opposite but in the end I shimmed the diff both ways until it went away. All it took was a 1/4 inch up to eliminate the issue.
Ron, do you mean an aluminum driveshaft makes it better or worse? A Z driveshaft is so short the weight difference would be minimal, unlike my SX one.
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Looking for the whole thing. Anybody?
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Well my wife can't rebuild cars but she can talk the talk without her eyes rolling back in her head, unlike most other women I know.
She has been supportive of the many and varied car projects throughout our 40+ years of marriage. We have owned over 70 vehicles so it has been a long road. A while back she got sick and ended up in a wheelchair. She still wanted me to race and have hot cars even though she couldn't ride in them. She took her confinement with more grace than I believe I could ever muster. After 6 chair bound years she can once again walk a bit but every day is a struggle for her. She pushed me to build an autox car and go to Nats where I took 8th in SM last year.... on her birthday. She's a pretty good gal and I'm gonna keep her.
Hope you guys can find one of your own. Having another half makes a whole.
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Sorry but I can't agree on that one. If you want serious info by knowledgeable people try http://nissanroadracing.com/.
Ground Control coilover issues
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Looks to me like you have a non-issue. Preload your springs some to raise your ride height. You haven't said what your spring rate is. They could be compressing quite a bit. I don't remember what all the write-up says but there is always room for deciding for yourself. You haven't mentioned where, in the stroke, you are at ride height. That is pretty important.
Easy fix is screw up the adjuster. Preload on the spring is fine. They come that way on all stock cars.