logr
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Posts posted by logr
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I Y'd the return line from the engine to both the chassis return line and the smaller line. It has worked fine for 2 years and an SR.
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23" tall tires? Isn't stock height around 24.7"?
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Didn't look at the pic but always put bleed on top. If it's not, the calipers are on the wrong sides.
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Pretty sure they are like SX calipers so you need to twist the piston to take out most of the play. The piston itself turns. I use either needle nose pliers or right angle snap ring pliers.
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OK, It's official, a 280Z tach will work with an SR.
What I did.
I wired in an MSD tach adapter box using the red/blue wire that goes to the coil packs.
I used a 280Z tach and wired it to the MSD box(temporarily out of the dash so I can adjust it)
I temporarily wired in an SR stock tach for comparison.
Fired it up and matched the tachs at 3500 rpm using the tunable pot on the back of the tach.
It is almost perfect from idle to red line, hardly any variance between tachs.
I then took both tachs out of the housings and swapped them so it will all bolt in and look completely stock.
I tried the 240Z tach but it is not the same and won't work. It has the adjustable pot but doesn't have a good signal hook up.
Thanks to Wheelman for the idea.
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I might have some available. I need to check out a guys collection of early ZX's. What do these go for?
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It seems the adaptor will work fine if I have a distributor, which I don't. Ken(Wheelman) thinks there is a good chance a 280Z tach will work and it is adjustable which might take care of the 4 vs 6 cyl problem. I'm thinking a box for a fake coil output and the 280Z tach has a good chance of working. I will keep you posted.
Am ordering the diff mount.
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Thanks for the link. I wonder if that is the same as the msd adapter but I like his diff mount a lot.
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I could not find anyone that has actually used a stock type tach with an SR. Does anyone know if it is possible. Wheelman used a 280Z one for his LT but I don't know if the SR output is the same. I have been considering using an MSD box to fake the signal which would probably make the 240Z tach move but 4cyl versus 6cyl seems like it would be a problem.
Any ideas?
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So, in your opinion, could a guy go with an 8.5" 35mm all the way around. Your fenders are completely stock? I would prefer to be able to rotate tires. I'm thinking 245/40/17's but I need Star Specs which tend to be wide.
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Sent you a pm and money. logr
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I did use 8" springs but 10" would have worked too. The closest point between the tire and strut is at the lower spring seat ring. My 9" rear wheels have a 48mm offset. I needed a 35mm offset for the front but they only made a 45mm in the bolt circle I needed so I used that wheel with a 10mm spacer. Front and rear fit perfect with no rubbing at all. I even think that a 275/40 would fit on the rear but the 265s are just fine.
Mike Mileski
Tucson, AZ
What size tires did you use. I'm interested in the height too. Those wheels look great. I have been considering doing this very thing but was planning on rpf1's. May change my mind now. I'm looking for how wide a tire can be put under stock fenders. Thanks, logr
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A common mistake is to put fuel into the return line instead of the pressure line. The return line is the one coming out of the regulator.
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I cut the crossmember so I could leave the suspension where it needs to be and still leave room for the sump. The steering shaft will slide out of the column enough without any modifications.
Here (#36) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138637&page=2 is what it looks like.
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SX for now. I have the longest steering wheel extension known to man. I am keeping it SM. They changed the headlight rule so pop up's can be changed. I took out one and it weighs 9 lbs but I need to put back at least 3-4 lbs with the new set up. Is a total loss of 10-12 lbs worth the trouble? Not sure I will change that or not.
I want to work on the Z. I like the balance and feel of it very much. I sure didn't move the weight that I thought I would, with the SR, but it is still 50/50 with me in it. I need to decide on springs and struts. The way it hooks up is a great thing. Wish the SX was even close. This whole spring thing is nuts. I just can't decide on rates. There is too much variance with good results. A 150/150 does about the same as a 650/225 on the same type car. I need more study on it I guess. Stiffer seems to be the new way but 750's on the front of a car with 1200 lbs in front just doesn't make sense to me.
I think I may try 10 inch 225's on the rear of the SX. The car with 450/300 has NO roll at all even with no rear bar and the stock front one.
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I'm going to be building the motor that's in my current DD 1992 240SX.
It's an SE hatchback in pretty good shape. I did a compression test and all cylinders were at 185psi or above.
It's a nice car but could use a little more power, I ran across a T3 turbo from a Merkur for basically nothing but the cost of a rebuild and decided "Why not?".
Ken, 1 count it, ONE autox and you bought a turbo. What happened, Makenoskenokaskosy ribbing us about Pax got you didn't it. I think you will like it much better with power. You need power as much as I do. See you this weekend. I got more weight on the back tires but how? Let's just say I can be my own backseat driver.
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The front lightened up 30 lbs with the swap, according to the same log truck scales that I weighed it on before. Total 2280# Not saying it's totally accurate but it does seem to say that there isn't much difference from the original. Seems to me you don't have to move the L6 to compare to an SR swap but I love the power, efficiency and ease of the SR. I'm happy with the swap but there isn't near the difference in weight that I had hoped for. Mine is still 120# heavy on the front, empty. With me in it, it changes to 20# heavy on the front. I plan on moving the battery to give me the 40 or so heavy on the back and drive it.
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For anyone interested, I replaced the lightweight flywheel and clutch, it seems fine now. I believe the Z mounts are much stiffer than SR mounts and puts more vibration into the body.
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Thanks but none of those fit. The rumble is on deceleration, even just a little bit of deceleration. You can feel it through the seat and it seems to be from the back. There is no noise with the driveshaft out and the trans in gear and the shifter always seems smooth. The noise goes away if you step on the clutch.
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Just installed SR20. Have bad vibration on decel, even just barely off throttle, in any gear. I have raised and lowered the front and rear of the diff, raised and lowered the rear of the trans. Changed diffs, checked mounts and everything 44 times for touching. Changed out the turbo due to vibration at certain rpm's. Checked fluid in trans, balanced driveshaft, disconnected half shafts and felt everything I can, all to no avail. There is almost no angle to the driveline but I changed the angles while the car was on stands in the car and nothing changed. Any ideas?????
Do other people use the L28 motor mounts? I am wondering if the mounts are too stiff for the engine. The vibration is BAD and really seems to be in the rear. I also isolated the exhaust and ran it that way, no change.
HELP PLEASE, logr
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My SR had a broken tailshaft housing so I changed it to a KA housing. It worked fine. The output shaft on the KA was approximately 1/16 in. smaller at one point, than the SR version. I could see no readily visible differences than that, at first look. That said, I have had 2 bad KA trans in the last couple of years on cars I swapped to SR's. They both had metal chunks in them. Haven't seen a bad SR one yet. Have seen worn syncros on second though.
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She runs!!!!! That is always a good feeling. You need 3 relays to make them run and I was going to use bosch type but I figured out something else, SX to the rescue again.
The SX fuse box is modular. I took one apart and used one half. I moved a 3 fuse box into it as well as 3 relays. I then had a neat little package that can be mounted anywhere and it uses Nissan fuses and relays. The fuses are on the left, kind of hard to see.
The throttle was very easy. KADE throttle cable bolted in the firewall and cut the end off the SX pedal top and weld on the Z.
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Ok, I'm gonna add a change in topic here so mods feel free to change the title. In an average SR20 swap in a S30, does the shifter come through the Z's shifter hole (don't know exactly what to call it) perfectly? For the suspension I wanna do, I'm starting to think that I'll need to move the engine back a few more inches and wondering if the shifter will still be going through the hole or if I'll have to cut it out more.
I just installed mine and yes it came through pretty much centered. If you move it back then the exhaust might be a problem, mine was. Top mount turbo might give more room, i'm guessing.
Gathering some info
in Nissan 4 Cyl Forum
Posted
SEARCH, head gasket, turbo, fuel, ecu, cams for that much hp. This question has been answered 63 million times so do a bit of research and all will be revealed. You are pushing an SR for that. It is doable but not the easiest to drive. A stock SR with a T28(S15)turbo is a very nice way to go and will give you a very fast car that CAN get 30+mpg. Must keep foot off floor to achieve.