Oaklandjester

PS good catch speed up 1.5 for viewing pleasure the motor sounds good at 9k

Laguna Seca has not been nice to us.. we totaled the car last month and are in process of moving all the parts to a 77 s30 shell... for Sonoma in December .. driver hit tire wall at turn 4 not even a sore neck.. cage, seat and HANS device did their job

Funny you mention that we kept getting suspension and wheels knocked around from minor contact so I made oversized 18 gage fender flares (double wall- one hoop around tire and one plane to the fender with several 1/4# square tube struts to the inner fender well — problem solved...

PS this was taken before going solid. There was a lot of movement in the driveline ...

LLave I agree going to solid bar here is a short video clip of a race at BW

I did mean had, we actually like full metal jacket mode, the car dances beautifully with the solid driveline and we get more power to the ground faster... we have cv axles so no u-joints. The car is already loud , two fuel pumps, diff cooler pump and exhaust, but with ear plugs and a helmet it all gets lost... driver comfort is ok we have a full containment seat and we want to be able to feel in the seat of the pants what the car is doing. We are running 275# springs so the car is soft enough. I have come to the conclusion the bar should not be tied to the drop bars. I believe the TT unit will take the play out.

The bar already hasn’t PU bushings the issue isn’t “firming it up” is the fact the spring bar is the last flexible structure in a solid mounted drivetrain ( solid motor mounts, trans mount and ft diff mont) thus it flexes. I now know I can’t weld the springbsteel (thank you Namor! )!so I orders Technon Toy bar and will diagonally brace the drop mounts and dog bone. No real access issue as rear diff fills from inside car (remote fill) and drains from oil cooler feed line coming from then drain hole. And I don’t see any real disassembly issues as it will come out as a entire unit.

Rebuilding a endurance track car after we totaled last one at Laguna Seca. We are putting a r180 in a 280 shell. ( 220 ho to wheels w/ rear dif cooler) We have a solid mount drivetrain except for mustache bar. Don’t really want to drop $500 on billit ones. Is there any reason I couldn’t reinforce the mustache bar and tie it to the drop mounts and dog bone?

Need R180 3:90 ratio in a K housing have 4:11 to trade or will buy outright Mike@calsubrolaw.com

Slotted the towers, cut the hats down. Relocated the lac bushings much better finished the paint to look like a zero al la forza zero 240 z not bad for a driveway paint job and a harbor frieght airbrush,

I had fitment issues as well. i took a bunch of measurements and found some 15 inch rims would fit but some would not.. (depended on the radius between the rim and the basket.. (we were trolling craigs list for cheap wheels) so we just went with 16" rotas. When you install watch the LCA lip, I ground it 3 times for clearance, (we have the short knuckles with the bump steer drop), In the end I took Dave's advice and just cut off the end. no more clearance issues. When we repack the bearings i may weld a plate across where I cut do it doesn't look like such a hack job.. we cut them with the rotor on.... not the best way to get clean lines..

Thanks for the comments, exactly what i needed, simple, and easy to understand! The measurements on the LCA are much appreciated Mike Morse .

Ok one to many expresso's tonight .... Here is a clip of our last race to give you an idea of how hard we push the brakes http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8EhBUXMtqx0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D8EhBUXMtqx0