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HybridZ

nicksoccer22

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About nicksoccer22

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  1. From the sounds of it the guys at industry garage are thinking of making carbon fenders, Check them out on YouTube. I doubt they'd be the stock shape though
  2. Found some cool old videos on youtube of some racing story of the top competitors, Jim Fitzgerald, Paul Newman, Frank Leary, and Logan Blackburn for the 1978 SCCA championship at Road Atlanta. Not all Z related, but if you want to skip to about 9:40 in the video you get some datsun stuff. at 10:47 you can see Bob Sharp blow a tire and roll the car after hitting a barrier.
  3. I'm looking to learn about how to read wiring diagrams and just understand the wiring of Z's better. Anybody have some suggestions on books/ videos That work well for that? Looking at either the diagrams or the actual car has me beyond confused and instead of asking a bunch of beginner questions here I thought it would be better to learn something for myself. Thanks guys!
  4. I'm terrible at wiring, but I've made progress. Nothing I could find could get rid of the foam, gas, acytone, break cleaner, a mix of all of them... I broke off a bit I could reach and just for fun I tried to burn it and it wouldn't even do that until I broke out a propane torch and it still took a while to melt. Ended up running the harness along the wheel well inside the car for now. so here's where I'm at after swapping from a 72 harness to a 71. When I turn the key, I hear clicking on passenger side from one of the flashers? I used a cheap little wire tester that lights up if there's power, All pins have power on the flasher, and the starter/solenoid always has power. I don't have a multimeter right now to test how my juice it's all getting. Sounded like the fuel pump kicked on after the first turn of the key then hasn't made a peep since. I used a screwdriver to jump from the hot wire to the solenoid and the starter kicked on. I've tried 3 key switches, but I've never tested if any of them work. They all make the flasher click, but that's it. From what I've read I'd have to guess that the wires going to the solenoid have broken along the way, or corroded enough to not get enough power to the solenoid. Does that sound right? Or am I missing something? Tried 3 Head light switches, all did the same stuff, turns on the high beam light on the gauge, but there is no power to the connector where it connects to the head light. Again a broken/corroded wire? 3 Turn signal switches, no power to either lights or gauge lights. My hazards work great. Brake lights work. Any suggestions? Is there a flow chart for troubleshooting of sorts to help diagnose these problems for someone like me who doesn't have the best grasp on how this all works? Anybody near eau Claire WI wanna give me a hand in exchange for some beer?
  5. So the car was rear-ended at some point in its life. And the person who repaired it did not want to do it right (that's why my taillights are goofy if you were wondering). I also think they replaced the thin metal panel the interior plastics mount to on the passenger side with a new one, because there are weird welds and a copious amount of seam sealer around it. Another bright idea that they had was to fill the area between the thin metal panel that was replaced with a TON of insulating spray foam, and in doing so encased the part of the wiring harness that runs back to the taillights inside of the foam. I tried to yank on it first, didn't budge, couldn't even feel the tension on the other end of the harness. I sprayed acetone and brake cleaner on a chunk that I peeled of off the shock tower and it didn't dissolve it at all. One thing they tried to do was add connectors to the harness down where it goes into the foam by the rocker, what they failed to do was leave enough room to actually plug stuff back in. I cant get my hands in there enough to plug what I had back in. So splicing my 71' harness and connecting it to the 72' harness that's in the foam isn't an option, plus the rear of the harness is already pretty horrible and spliced on the original harness. So Hybridz, any suggestions on how to get the foam out of there/ get the new harness ran in there short of cutting out that panel? I plan to do it right eventually, but I'd really like to get it running by the end of summer and I don't want this to be a project that means I can't drive it before the Wisconsin winter sneaks up on me. I ended up swapping to my 71' dash and harness last night after work and for now I just have the rear section of harness running on the outside of the wheel well.
  6. My second Z(First pic), a 71' with great interior and most importantly, a prefect wiring harness to swap into the 72'. My biggest regret with my cars so far was getting rid of this one. It had a lot of cool history behind it. It was owned and raced by a doctor on the east coast. He took it to Panama in the winters to race. It was relatively stock other than bigger sway bars. My 3rd z, a 78'. I bought it for less than I could flip the wheels for and I figured I could use more parts. Car is now resting (for now) in a farm in North Dakota. Hopefully be a drift car some day. Wheels are now on a fb rx7 set of offset work equip 02's.
  7. Hey Hybridz, been browsing for about 4.5 years after seeing some videos on Youtube of sbc swapped Z's. I'm 22 in college and this is my first major car related project. My first Z, 72'. Bought her right before I left for Army basic training in July 14'. Bought it without brakes, a cut, spliced and mangled wiring harness, and it was missing the panel over the wiper motor and the body panels under the front bumper. I was told they were still getting paint, but when I called the paint shop they said they never had them, when I went back to the previous owners place I was told he left the country. Over the last 4 years not much has been done other than saving money and "fixing" the brakes. Short term goal is to get it running again. Fall of 15' the wiring harness caught on fire while driving and it hasn't ran since. Hopefully by the end of summer 18' I'd like to get it running, refresh the suspension, and upgrade the brakes. Long term goal is an LS swap that can be a fun summer daily. I'll probably post just big updates on Instagram, If you want to follow I'm @nick.steffens.s30
  8. Well, I fell in love with the white Common Snapper Z car, and after looking through the gallery tab in their website I saw a picture of the white Z with 5 lug hubs and Brembo's. The picture has a label under it that says z33 caliper and rotor. Does anybody know if they sell a kit for a brake/hub swap? I haven't seen much on these guys on the forum, and a lot of the info I have found about them leads to dead links. They also have some really nice looking Coilovers, but they are very expensive. Anybody from the states work with them before? How was shipping times and prices? How was customer service? Thanks guys, Nick
  9. I've been looking into the Japan racing wheels as well, are you going with the 8 spoke style? When they come in I'd appreciate it if you commented on the quality of the finish and your initial impressions. They have two bolt patterns cut into them, I don't want to derail your thread, but have you or anybody in the community heard of that making the wheels less durable? Thanks, Nick
  10. This is definitely not for everybody, but a very cool build in progress with lots of carbon fiber.
  11. Looking to price out a set of Work Equip 02's. I bought the car at an auction for some interior and suspension stuff and it came with these wheels. One has some curb rash, I'll add a picture of how bad that is when I get a chance. I've seen some on ebay from 800-1000, but I don't know if they are selling at that price. Any advice would be great, Thanks guys!
  12. Thanks for the info NewZed, I had figured that's how it worked, but I didn't want to drop 600 bucks on a set of brakes that I would eventually have to swap out. And thank you NeverDone, I'm a 4 hour drive from my car and any of my manuals. so the description of how the power got delivered was helpful, I'll be sure to reread the sticky's a few more times.
  13. I should have been more specific when I said I was getting off topic. I was just trying to see if I was understanding that post on the sticky correctly when asking about the 280z with a long nose r200. I'm still interested in the q45's short nose, but it seems like there is a lot more involved in it, and with my limited knowledge on this, I might need to reconsider. To my previous post, if I did swap the 280z long nose and it's companion flange and stub axle, would I then be in the market for 280z brakes? I just want to make sure I'm understanding the basics of this before I get too deep down the rabbit hole.
  14. Sorta off topic, but I just want to clarify something on the first post in this sticky, Jmortensen gives a list of things to do to put a long nose r200 into a 72-73 240z 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts Of these components Diff Output Flange>>>Axles>>>Companion Flange>>>Stub Axle>>>Tires, the only parts you'd need from a 280z with a long nose r200 would be the companion flange and stub shafts/axles? And because the stub axles are being changed, brake upgrades for a 240 would no longer fit, and I'd need 280z stuff, assuming I sourced the stub axles from a 280z?
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