nicksoccer22

Hey fusion, I'm also rewiring my car and saw your post and decided to try something like it. I removed the fresh air vent thing on the passenger side. From there I ran a fiberglass wire snake through and it ended up coming out right in front of the inspection light. I don't have pics of the interior side of what I did but that should be pretty self explanatory. I'm using Delphi/ aptiv metri-pack 280 series connectors, and when I was testing things out I was able to fit a 5 pin connector through the cavity, but it took some doing. I ended up only needing a bunch of 3 and 2 pin connector, so routing them wasn't too difficult, but I was careful to stagger the connectors off the main loom, and used plenty of tape to get it to all fish through. Overall it looks pretty nice, still need to sleeve it all and figure out grommets. Imo it's worth the time if you are rewiring. Doesn't take much more time, cleans up the engine bay and is probably a more reliable set up than having them sit on the frame rail

My 240 was rear ended in a past life and the previous owner had it fixed in an interesting way. Instead of the inset taillight panels and stock lights it has sheet metal attached flush to the rest of the panels so the back looks very flat, He also had 4 cheapo round (I think 5" diameter, but I forgot to double check that and I'm at work now, I'll update it when I get home) brake lights with no other functionality. The PO ruined the wiring, and when I was driving it to storage before going to college it started on fire under the dash and I haven't touched it since. So I am planning a new harness using a Eaton Bussman 31S-002-0 and I would like to actually have functional turn signals/running lights/reverse lights, So I am looking for new round tail lights. The things most important to me are Using 4 lights (2 per side obviously) have a red brake light, red running light, amber turn signal, and a white reverse light I would really prefer Non-led, but I I doubt that will be possible with my next point Mount as flush/ tight to the current sheet metal as possible. I wanted to see what the stock tail lights looked like on my car and just held them up to the hole the current lights are mounted and it looked VERY silly sticking out so far. so a flush mount is ideal. I am willing to cut the holes larger, again I will check to see what they are currently. Would love for the "lens" the lights to sit behind to be either all red or all black/smoke in color. Does anybody have experience using aftermarket round tail lights and have suggestions on brands? I don't mind spending some money to make sure I get what I want and not have to worry much about them dying quickly. The closest I have found can be found on ebay by searching "Euro Red Amber LED Combo Multi-Function Round Stop Turn Brake Tail Lights", It's the one for $90. The only thing I don't like about these is I don't like the look of the lenses with the multi color thing going on. Has anybody put a film tint on something like this? I thought that could be a work around for the issue I thought I had a better picture somewhere but I guess not.

From the sounds of it the guys at industry garage are thinking of making carbon fenders, Check them out on YouTube. I doubt they'd be the stock shape though

Retro-spec

Found some cool old videos on youtube of some racing story of the top competitors, Jim Fitzgerald, Paul Newman, Frank Leary, and Logan Blackburn for the 1978 SCCA championship at Road Atlanta. Not all Z related, but if you want to skip to about 9:40 in the video you get some datsun stuff. at 10:47 you can see Bob Sharp blow a tire and roll the car after hitting a barrier.

I'm looking to learn about how to read wiring diagrams and just understand the wiring of Z's better. Anybody have some suggestions on books/ videos That work well for that? Looking at either the diagrams or the actual car has me beyond confused and instead of asking a bunch of beginner questions here I thought it would be better to learn something for myself. Thanks guys!

I'm terrible at wiring, but I've made progress. Nothing I could find could get rid of the foam, gas, acytone, break cleaner, a mix of all of them... I broke off a bit I could reach and just for fun I tried to burn it and it wouldn't even do that until I broke out a propane torch and it still took a while to melt. Ended up running the harness along the wheel well inside the car for now. so here's where I'm at after swapping from a 72 harness to a 71. When I turn the key, I hear clicking on passenger side from one of the flashers? I used a cheap little wire tester that lights up if there's power, All pins have power on the flasher, and the starter/solenoid always has power. I don't have a multimeter right now to test how my juice it's all getting. Sounded like the fuel pump kicked on after the first turn of the key then hasn't made a peep since. I used a screwdriver to jump from the hot wire to the solenoid and the starter kicked on. I've tried 3 key switches, but I've never tested if any of them work. They all make the flasher click, but that's it. From what I've read I'd have to guess that the wires going to the solenoid have broken along the way, or corroded enough to not get enough power to the solenoid. Does that sound right? Or am I missing something? Tried 3 Head light switches, all did the same stuff, turns on the high beam light on the gauge, but there is no power to the connector where it connects to the head light. Again a broken/corroded wire? 3 Turn signal switches, no power to either lights or gauge lights. My hazards work great. Brake lights work. Any suggestions? Is there a flow chart for troubleshooting of sorts to help diagnose these problems for someone like me who doesn't have the best grasp on how this all works? Anybody near eau Claire WI wanna give me a hand in exchange for some beer?

So the car was rear-ended at some point in its life. And the person who repaired it did not want to do it right (that's why my taillights are goofy if you were wondering). I also think they replaced the thin metal panel the interior plastics mount to on the passenger side with a new one, because there are weird welds and a copious amount of seam sealer around it. Another bright idea that they had was to fill the area between the thin metal panel that was replaced with a TON of insulating spray foam, and in doing so encased the part of the wiring harness that runs back to the taillights inside of the foam. I tried to yank on it first, didn't budge, couldn't even feel the tension on the other end of the harness. I sprayed acetone and brake cleaner on a chunk that I peeled of off the shock tower and it didn't dissolve it at all. One thing they tried to do was add connectors to the harness down where it goes into the foam by the rocker, what they failed to do was leave enough room to actually plug stuff back in. I cant get my hands in there enough to plug what I had back in. So splicing my 71' harness and connecting it to the 72' harness that's in the foam isn't an option, plus the rear of the harness is already pretty horrible and spliced on the original harness. So Hybridz, any suggestions on how to get the foam out of there/ get the new harness ran in there short of cutting out that panel? I plan to do it right eventually, but I'd really like to get it running by the end of summer and I don't want this to be a project that means I can't drive it before the Wisconsin winter sneaks up on me. I ended up swapping to my 71' dash and harness last night after work and for now I just have the rear section of harness running on the outside of the wheel well.

My second Z(First pic), a 71' with great interior and most importantly, a prefect wiring harness to swap into the 72'. My biggest regret with my cars so far was getting rid of this one. It had a lot of cool history behind it. It was owned and raced by a doctor on the east coast. He took it to Panama in the winters to race. It was relatively stock other than bigger sway bars. My 3rd z, a 78'. I bought it for less than I could flip the wheels for and I figured I could use more parts. Car is now resting (for now) in a farm in North Dakota. Hopefully be a drift car some day. Wheels are now on a fb rx7 set of offset work equip 02's.

Hey Hybridz, been browsing for about 4.5 years after seeing some videos on Youtube of sbc swapped Z's. I'm 22 in college and this is my first major car related project. My first Z, 72'. Bought her right before I left for Army basic training in July 14'. Bought it without brakes, a cut, spliced and mangled wiring harness, and it was missing the panel over the wiper motor and the body panels under the front bumper. I was told they were still getting paint, but when I called the paint shop they said they never had them, when I went back to the previous owners place I was told he left the country. Over the last 4 years not much has been done other than saving money and "fixing" the brakes. Short term goal is to get it running again. Fall of 15' the wiring harness caught on fire while driving and it hasn't ran since. Hopefully by the end of summer 18' I'd like to get it running, refresh the suspension, and upgrade the brakes. Long term goal is an LS swap that can be a fun summer daily. I'll probably post just big updates on Instagram, If you want to follow I'm @nick.steffens.s30

Well, I fell in love with the white Common Snapper Z car, and after looking through the gallery tab in their website I saw a picture of the white Z with 5 lug hubs and Brembo's. The picture has a label under it that says z33 caliper and rotor. Does anybody know if they sell a kit for a brake/hub swap? I haven't seen much on these guys on the forum, and a lot of the info I have found about them leads to dead links. They also have some really nice looking Coilovers, but they are very expensive. Anybody from the states work with them before? How was shipping times and prices? How was customer service? Thanks guys, Nick

I've been looking into the Japan racing wheels as well, are you going with the 8 spoke style? When they come in I'd appreciate it if you commented on the quality of the finish and your initial impressions. They have two bolt patterns cut into them, I don't want to derail your thread, but have you or anybody in the community heard of that making the wheels less durable? Thanks, Nick

This is definitely not for everybody, but a very cool build in progress with lots of carbon fiber.

Looking to price out a set of Work Equip 02's. I bought the car at an auction for some interior and suspension stuff and it came with these wheels. One has some curb rash, I'll add a picture of how bad that is when I get a chance. I've seen some on ebay from 800-1000, but I don't know if they are selling at that price. Any advice would be great, Thanks guys!

Thanks for the info NewZed, I had figured that's how it worked, but I didn't want to drop 600 bucks on a set of brakes that I would eventually have to swap out. And thank you NeverDone, I'm a 4 hour drive from my car and any of my manuals. so the description of how the power got delivered was helpful, I'll be sure to reread the sticky's a few more times.