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tube80z last won the day on August 8 2021

tube80z had the most liked content!

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  1. SuperDan has now fixed this. It was a problem with an expired certificate. Nothing malicious. Cary
  2. The one thing I would add is a pin in the middle. Unless you are doing a lot of work to close up the front end and exhaust the pressure. I have may pictures taken over the years with various Zs that have the center of the hood bulged up looking like a guppy. Love watching the progress, Cary
  3. I'd personally do plywood until you get the design all figured out. It's cheap and easy to work with. When you want to go all out you can route out big sections and use foam to fill them in. Then put some Kevlar on the bottom and some carbon or s-glass on the top and you'll have a very strong splitter. For the splitter frame make it adjustable and sprung so it can move up if the car gets too low. I see a lot of solid mounted splitters that people grind off. Done right you can make this a performance adjustment but that may get you in trouble with the rules. Leading edge trea
  4. You're welcome. I'm learning lots from your build too. Every time I build anything I always find a better way to build it and make it lighter next time. I love watching the progress. I still come to see what people are doing and what the latest things people have found on newer cars and to keep the Zs going better than ever. My latest find is the Bosch i-brake system. Electronic brake booster rather than needing any vacuum. More later on that. Keep up the good work, cary
  5. Unless there are some missing tubes a strut tower brace is still going to help. On my old car I had the cage tied in similar to this and did some push/pull testing using a hydraulic ram and found the towers would still move. It will be a lot less but they will still move. And I could tell when it wasn't attached, as the car seemed a little slower to respond. I don't know if historic or SCCA EP will let you do this but if you reinforce the top of the tower and connect it to the vertical you'll lose another area of movement. Another way would be to use a thicker camber plate top
  6. Did you see this post is from 2015? Generally we try and leave old posts alone. Please note this topic has been discussed a lot in the aero section, in case you are curious.
  7. Thanks for sharing. That's pretty f'ing amazing at how fast that car is.
  8. I don't have the pictures anymore but my old 240Z race car also had this mod as I ran under GT-2 rules (first spark plug aligns with front axle centerline). Ideally you need a dry sump as the oil pump will end up being the part that keeps you from moving the engine down. If you look at a standard l-series install you can see that it wants to be in the same place as the rack and cross member when you move this far back. So while this gives a much better weight distribution (mine was slightly better but not much 47.8 front) the one thing not mentioned is this makes the car much fas
  9. Great to hear. I was going to ping Dan again but glad you are hooked up. Cary
  10. I just posted this to our admin forum. I think it will take intervention from SuperDan to fix. I also asked if there was a way to link old/new accounts for those of you that had to create new ones. Sorry for the inconvenience this is causing all of you. Almost all of my "admin" time is pruning spam from the threads hoping to keep the information ratio up. best, Cary
  11. And don't forget the custom mufflers or battery holds on each side of the cell that make a wall just like a diffuser. I'd personally 3D print or buy a faux batter top or send some fake wiring to it so that it looks legit. Maybe one could be a fuel cooler? Just spitballing ideas to make the cell closer to a diffuser.
  12. Make the fuel cell a diffuser. You can install it so that it's tipped toward the front. Or keep the cell you have and build a box that holds the pumps and lines. I've seen a few local GT-1 cars that had a setup very close to this. Definitely a grey area that may be called out.
  13. I think you should at least invest in a GoPro that can provide data and use the RaceTechnology software (https://www.race-technology.com/us/gopro) if the budget allows. Capturing data with video will help make you a better driver far more quickly than without. It also would be useful if you wanted to use a virtual coach. There are a lot of people doing this now and from what I've seen it can be super helpful. I also can't stress enough how important it is to have a racing notebook. You can use this to keep all your setup sheets, run sheets, etc. together, and plan out what setu
  14. It's internally regulated and physically smaller, in case that's of any help.
  15. My column is as Clark described, 3/4 DOM tubing held by separate rod ends (specially sized for 3/4 tube) and then I used the Woodward weld in splines and their u-joints for the weld in splines and a special Woodward u-joint for the rack. For the collapsing piece I used a Woodward part inside the car near the steering wheel. It has 5 to 7 inches of telescoping as I recall. My plan was to make a trick system that allowed you to pull a lever and move the steering wheel up and almost to the windshield rather than removing the wheel. It was an idea I had thought for driver changes watching frie
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