tube80z

I don't have the pictures anymore but my old 240Z race car also had this mod as I ran under GT-2 rules (first spark plug aligns with front axle centerline). Ideally you need a dry sump as the oil pump will end up being the part that keeps you from moving the engine down. If you look at a standard l-series install you can see that it wants to be in the same place as the rack and cross member when you move this far back. So while this gives a much better weight distribution (mine was slightly better but not much 47.8 front) the one thing not mentioned is this makes the car much fas

Great to hear. I was going to ping Dan again but glad you are hooked up. Cary

I just posted this to our admin forum. I think it will take intervention from SuperDan to fix. I also asked if there was a way to link old/new accounts for those of you that had to create new ones. Sorry for the inconvenience this is causing all of you. Almost all of my "admin" time is pruning spam from the threads hoping to keep the information ratio up. best, Cary

And don't forget the custom mufflers or battery holds on each side of the cell that make a wall just like a diffuser. I'd personally 3D print or buy a faux batter top or send some fake wiring to it so that it looks legit. Maybe one could be a fuel cooler? Just spitballing ideas to make the cell closer to a diffuser.

Make the fuel cell a diffuser. You can install it so that it's tipped toward the front. Or keep the cell you have and build a box that holds the pumps and lines. I've seen a few local GT-1 cars that had a setup very close to this. Definitely a grey area that may be called out.

I think you should at least invest in a GoPro that can provide data and use the RaceTechnology software (https://www.race-technology.com/us/gopro) if the budget allows. Capturing data with video will help make you a better driver far more quickly than without. It also would be useful if you wanted to use a virtual coach. There are a lot of people doing this now and from what I've seen it can be super helpful. I also can't stress enough how important it is to have a racing notebook. You can use this to keep all your setup sheets, run sheets, etc. together, and plan out what setu

It's internally regulated and physically smaller, in case that's of any help.

My column is as Clark described, 3/4 DOM tubing held by separate rod ends (specially sized for 3/4 tube) and then I used the Woodward weld in splines and their u-joints for the weld in splines and a special Woodward u-joint for the rack. For the collapsing piece I used a Woodward part inside the car near the steering wheel. It has 5 to 7 inches of telescoping as I recall. My plan was to make a trick system that allowed you to pull a lever and move the steering wheel up and almost to the windshield rather than removing the wheel. It was an idea I had thought for driver changes watching frie

Look for a Kubota tractor alternator. Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-100211-1670-16231-24011-16241-64010-16241-64011/dp/B00S6MW70A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=kubota+alternator&qid=1628200900&sr=8-5 Cary

I've done that in the past. I can tell you that going forward I'm not for the simple reason is you need to lug around another battery to hook to the car before and after runs. And forgetting to turn something off really screws up your day. I made a quick connect on the side of the car where I would drive off and the base battery connection would pull out. While that worked it left a battery hanging around where I was. Not a big deal if you have friends that will move it but if you're a one man show someplace that might be problematic. I like AIM products but hate the

You need about 20 heaters added to your rig for realism of the cockpit

You can heat them with a torch until they fall apart and remove some of the top ring. You can get about an inch doing this. Then you have to modify the metal body of the isolator but cutting the cup in various sections so you can fold it back over the shortened rubber isolator and then tack weld the folds. This was very common before the widespread adoption of camber plates. For a street car it's nice as you get some lowering but also it tightens the strut top so in cornering you don't lose as much camber. Think of it as halfway between stock and camber plates.

Awesome job on the exhaust, well awesome job all around! Those headers were pretty common on all the tubeframe cars running hear in the northwest. They get very hot in the car so you'll want a lot of shielding. You might be able to vent some air from the cowl into the fabbed transmission tunnel to help cool it down.

What are you looking for in this book? I have and have only went through it one time and now another. The author seems to either be an academic or someone who has no real experience with racing cars. Almost all the examples are trivial to explain some vehicle dynamics concept with a nice easy to solve formula. I think if you're totally new to FSAE this may be okay as a starter but even then I have a lot of reservations. The author often throws out some rule of thumb or says this would make a nice starting point. In FSAE you better have the knowledge of why and not say rule o

They are worth the 30% just for the CAD models of all the hardware they sell. Another company I've been very happy with is MSC. While I haven't bought anything in the last couple of years they always seemed to have it in stock and shipped it very quickly