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The problem is HybridZ has no idea how to deal with a ".jfif" file extension so it only shows as a download. change it to ".jpg" or a ".png" and it should work fine. Hope that helps, Cary

Hey Mike, great to hear from you. I'd also take a look at https://www.race-technology.com/gb/gopro software for pulling data on most newer gopro cameras. And if you want to be able to mix and match data Track Attack is nice software to use. It also can integrate most action cameras into a feed with overlaid data. Cary

So sorry to hear the news Stony. Glad you're alright and we'll all morn the beast you created. Cary

Hey Aydin, I would do one small mod that will save you down the road. Use a small section of flexible brake lines that goes from the masters to a block on the firewall that terminates the hard lines and has a high spot for a bleeder (one with a check valve). When I got this advice I thought it was stupid until I needed to fix a master that was leaky. I had it removed, new one installed, and blead in about 5 minutes. When a friend had a similar issue the hard line kept leaking and this similar process was a half hour or more. Cary

The LV1 only came in vans as far as I know. The LV3 is more widely available but has displacement on demand (DOD) that needs to be removed. You can pull the balance shaft out and they work fine from what I've read. For some reason these are super pricey, which seems odd as there should be a bunch on the used market. They came in a number of trucks and small SUVs. The LV1 and LV3 are 100 pounds lighter than the equivalent V8. Scoggin Dicky has some dyno videos where they used a pulled LV3 with DOD delete and a new cam and it made 368 HP and had over 300 ft-lbs of torque at 2 or 2.5K.

Almost all the new throttlebodies have them as a cam and you can either borrow one or make something similar. If you wanted to do it so that the linkage looked stock you probably could hide this under the dash or put the same on the firewall for the cable from the pedal would wrap onto. I think you could make different options to fine tune the response to where it works best for you. I stole the idea from John DeArman (sp?) who used to have a Z car technical magazine. And was a prolific poster on the old. alt.hotrod Usenet news channel. Cary

One thing you can try to make the ITBs more drivable is to create a progressive throttle cam so the throttle moves a lot less on the initial pedal movement. I had a car with light-switch SUs and this helped add some drivability to the car. Cary

@Dat73z Give it a try now.

Hi Randall, I added your unbanned your old account (Randall/K12) and you should be good to go. I probably screwed up and banned you by mistake. We've had a lot of problems with spammers and scanners lately so all the forum admin tasks are manually done edited rather than allowing them to be automated we switched to manual. This helps keep accounts from spamming after they site dormant for a while. That shouldn't have bothered you with an existing account so I'm not sure what I did make this happen. I'm sorry for any inconvenience this caused. If you have any problems getting back into the account please let me know. Thanks, Cary

Also check out the MaxxECU range. Andy Whittle has many nice things to say about them. They have a lot of inputs/outputs that can be configured any way you want. Andy is the MLVHD facebook admin and has been dealing with club racer tunes and hardware for years. I like that he's always looking for deals and using OEM parts for sensors rather than the $$$ branded versions. Cary

Nice work Aydin! Here's my trick when it comes to back purging stainless exhaust tubing. I use a pig. Maybe that's not the right term but it's a device that you can run down the tubing connected to a cable/hose so that you only purge a few inches (8-10) near your weld. You're probably thinking this is some high dollar piece of equipment. It's not, it's a water balloon (more than 1) connected to the end of an air hose I put through the exhaust. I use a valve to inflate/deflate on the other end. When you need to weld the next bit of tubing you pull out enough hose, keeping track of how much you need to clear the weld area. Sometimes you need to use foil to protect the "pig" from sparks or sharp edges. Maybe this will work for you maybe, maybe not. I'm just a huge cheap ass who hates wasting expensive gas. The last time I filled my argon was 2016 and I complained about the price then. I just checked how much it costs now and almost broke my office chair from falling over.

PM me, I can help. Cary

Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team

Hi Clarke, Have you contacted any of the dealers that sell Race Technology equipment for help? I was thinking RT and Veracity perhaps as a start. I have some code from an FSAE project that used Aurduinos and CAN to send along data into a CAN stream. It has sample code but I haven't verified if it works or not. I'll look for that and forward to you. Cary

Costco has a god cleaner with no ammonia called sprayaway. I used to have to get it from an industrial cleaner company and it was expensive. I also highly recommend the Novus products.