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tube80z last won the day on July 30

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  1. You need about 20 heaters added to your rig for realism of the cockpit
  2. You can heat them with a torch until they fall apart and remove some of the top ring. You can get about an inch doing this. Then you have to modify the metal body of the isolator but cutting the cup in various sections so you can fold it back over the shortened rubber isolator and then tack weld the folds. This was very common before the widespread adoption of camber plates. For a street car it's nice as you get some lowering but also it tightens the strut top so in cornering you don't lose as much camber. Think of it as halfway between stock and camber plates.
  3. Awesome job on the exhaust, well awesome job all around! Those headers were pretty common on all the tubeframe cars running hear in the northwest. They get very hot in the car so you'll want a lot of shielding. You might be able to vent some air from the cowl into the fabbed transmission tunnel to help cool it down.
  4. What are you looking for in this book? I have and have only went through it one time and now another. The author seems to either be an academic or someone who has no real experience with racing cars. Almost all the examples are trivial to explain some vehicle dynamics concept with a nice easy to solve formula. I think if you're totally new to FSAE this may be okay as a starter but even then I have a lot of reservations. The author often throws out some rule of thumb or says this would make a nice starting point. In FSAE you better have the knowledge of why and not say rule o
  5. They are worth the 30% just for the CAD models of all the hardware they sell. Another company I've been very happy with is MSC. While I haven't bought anything in the last couple of years they always seemed to have it in stock and shipped it very quickly
  6. I think one thing you have to temper the don't use braided line for all the brakes is probably based on hose that was available 30 to 40 years ago. Someone respected said it and then it was passed down as lore. I think you have proved modern lines are fine and it's really up to the owner in what they want to run. The one area where a single master cylinder can help is when they use fast fill. That's where they use a stepped piston to move a lot of fluid initially and then it steps down so you have even force between the axles. I don't know if fast fill is the right term but tha
  7. The flow by the time it gets to the back of the car is a total mess. If you want to extract a better option would be to create a vent behind the spoiler and wing to help extract any high pressure air. Ideally your duct would be on top of the tire somewhat forward of centerline. This is where you'll see many of the fender louvers on race cars. This could all be done and contained in a duct that can be bonded into the inner fender. I'd run some pressure taps to see where the high pressure is and if the differential is enough either for the side exit to work or a rear exit. You don't need to
  8. Makes perfect sense to me. If they haven't been built maybe something to look at. Cary
  9. One thing I add to these are safety washers on the outside of the rod ends on the strut. In case you need a link here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Washer-Prevent-Twelve-Through/dp/B07RB7RWMB. I think if you search around you can get a better price but it's been years since I've bought any. Cary
  10. For the lower mount you can probably save more weight by doing away with the bolt that goes all the way through and rotate those mounts 90 degrees and it can be a double shear mount with two smaller bolts. I know that's not much weight but every little bit helps. And ideally use a toe-link rear arm design. Just a thought.
  11. I'll take a moment to reply to the tone of this comment. On HybridZ we (admins) are not suppressing feedback about vendors. What we are doing is trying to make sure a thread stays on topic so that future users will be able to use search and find good quality content that is helpful and relevant to their search. Ideally the original thread should have stayed on topic and a new thread started about vendor feedback. A link could be left in the technical thread and both discussions could happen and be more likely to be found be search in the future. Hope that helps, Cary
  12. I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.
  13. I guess one question is how low RPM do you plan to drive? When racing I'd think most of the time you'd be above 2500-3500 on the low end and a light flywheel will be helpful.
  14. I used to street drive a 10 pound flywheel with no problems. I personally think it has a lot to do with you set the bite point where the clutch hooks up and this can vary widely between pressure plates. That requires some fiddling between master and slave cylinder pushrod lengths. This isn't so much a problem for the inline 6 because they make decent torque off the line. It also depends on clutch disc material and if it has a sprung clutch hub.
  15. They do. But I've seen this interpreted different from time to time. My car has a separate metal box over the cell and the lines where they are in the cabin. I got busted at a hillclimb (GCR rules) that I didn't have metal over my fuel lines (braided hose didn't count) so I did what any normal person would in the middle of nowhere. I built a cover using aluminum foil and riveted it to the floor here and there. Technically it was a metal cover. Rules were changed after that to be more specific.
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