iDev

I might have a pair of BZ3015 in the garage from my car that I pulled off prior to disassembling my Z. PM me and I'll let you know.

I have a S30 radio, in great condition. Let me know and I can send pictures.

PM me. I have a nice looking series 1 heatshield for SU's.

I may be selling my rear disc brake kit, PM me for more info.

As the title states, would like to find a pair of T3 TC rods and Cusco Front & Rear strut tower braces on here first. Thanks!

bump, need a pair of Tokico Illumina BZ3016 rears for a 240Z, got the fronts!

Bump, need a set. New or used of either the HP or Illuminas. If someone also has Koni Classic Ds for a 240Z that may work too.

Hm odd, I sent them an e-mail yesterday and they said they were out. Maybe you got the last set /:

As the title states, like to buy a pair of Tokico HP or Illumina struts for a 240Z. These will be used in a Non-sectioned strut housing. Also shipped to 90807, CA. Thank you.

As the title says, would like to buy a series 1 240Z front diff mount for a 71 240Z as my car has the earlier rear design opposed to the later 72 and up models. Interested as long as the rubber is still in good condition and not separating. Shipped to 90807. Thanks!

Looking for a 5 speed transmission in the LA/OC area in Cali to pick up locally. Preferably a early 5 speed but a ZX 5 speed will do as well. If you have one please let me know where and how much. If your out a ways and could ship please also let me know how much and a shipping quote to 90807. Thank you.

As the title suggests, I'd like to buy a 240Z horn pad that goes onto the steering wheel as my 240Z is missing it. Shipping would be to 90807 CA. Thanks for looking!

As what the title says, would like to get one for a cheaper price than MSA site if possible, thank you.

I believe taking the screw out would richen the mixture and closing it off would lean it out. I believe that is a bypass for air to go in during idle.

I'm guessing its a killswitch. I flipped it and the car wouldn't start. PO never told me that it had one.

Hey guys, I'm still having issues with my car that I can't seem to figure out. I have a few questions regarding the state of the car in which I received from the PO. I'm post some pictures/videos up. Is the fuel relay hooked up correctly? Isn't it supposed to be attached to something? Is there a ground for this? This AFM only has 5 pins instead of 7, and doesn't have the ground cable. What is this little switch beneath the driver side footwell? Do 280Z's have this switch? Killswitch? I'm a bit of a time crunch so I'll post my symptoms when I get off of work, but to start, car keeps losing power, no power under load, constant backfiring, really rich smell, black smoke out of the tailpipe, can't go WOT or otherwise it will bog down and die if I keep it at WOT, have to feather the throttle ever so gently to bring the rpms up.

Thanks for all the responses guys! Appreciate the advice/tips. I don't think my water temperature sensor is bad, it was within in spec of ohms of the water temperature of the engine. Still need to clean the connectors though. Is a good cleaning solution such as deoxit good? I pulled my plugs and they have this really sooty/black carbon deposited texture on them. For some reason the plugs inside were Autolite instead of NGK so I need to get some new plugs. Would NGK BKR7E 0.9 gap be good? I run them in my 2004 Nissan Pathfinder. Could the car be running rich? On the distributor, is the marking on the side of it? Also this is a bit off topic but is there a specific coolant that goes in the coolant overflow bottle? I just put some 50/50 Prestone antifreeze/coolant that my mom had for her Cadillac.

It's been about maybe 1-2 years since it was last running well?

HybridZ members, I have a 1976 Datsun 280Z with a L28E. I've been having quite a few problems lately that maybe can be addressed since I've been running in circles. To start off, when I start the car it has a quite rough idle and high idle, like around the neighborhood of 1-1.5K but sometime goes to 800RPM's but is really rough and shakes the car quite a lot and it sounds like its missing on some cylinder during idle, constant popping from the exhaust. If I give it some gas, I can hear this sort of sucking/hissing sound by my air filter and the engine bogs down but starts to gain RPM rough as well like its also misfiring on cylinders as well. I thought it was the PCV hose because it had a hole in it so I replaced it but its still makes the noise, still a vacuum leak somewhere I believe. If I give it full throttle, it will just bog down to the point where it will die if I don't get off the gas. I did some checks in the EFI bible and that everything checks out except the fuel pump relay seemed to not have and continuity and that the air regulator didn't continuity as well. I already replaced the fuel pump and filter and checked all the connections though I still need to give them a cleaning. If the fuel pump relay was bad, wouldn't it not start the fuel pump at all? What will a bad air regulator cause? What other things can make the Z run poorly besides the FI components. Also my AFM was missing the ground cable to it when I got the car, I since found another one but could a missing ground cause these problems as well? I'm pretty new here so I'm still getting the hang of things, sorry if I come off as ignorant or dim witted.

Figured out the problem, broken PCV hose, big o hole right in it causing it to have a huge vacuum leak. New hose coming in soon and hopefully solves my problem

Also after looking around the forums for some time, is there supposed to be some sort of grounding wire for the AFM because I don't seem to find one nor the bolts that go to the afm since the PO took off the AFM. Could this possibly lead to the erratic problems I'm having?

I'm kind of lost on where the vacuum lines go to, there is this yellow bottle which I'm guessing is a vacuum bottle, then there are a few solenoids. They split into a Y shape piece and go into 3-4 hoses, which two go inside and I think two go with the firewall and hook up somewhere, one was connected to some little pressure pump on the top of the intake by the throttle, maybe choke? and another was just completely severed to which I didn't know where it was supposed to go. I've been looking a HVAC hose diagram but its so pixelated that its a bit hard to read. I'll upload a picture on the site on the hoses and connections. I know the fuel pressure gauge hooks up from the fuel filter before the fuel rail so i'll let you know on the reading.

Hey guys, I just picked up a 1976 Datsun 280Z for 1.2K here in LA, not bad of a find, pretty nice interior everything is there, no cracks in the dash or seats, 5 speed tranny, R200 LSD, A/C, 6-1 Monza Header to straight pipe, has its fair share of rust but nothing too bad for a CA car, 101K miles. Pretty much a nice little find for me since it's my first car, let alone, first Z. To begin with, the car was sitting for quite sometime, unknown length of time as the owner had it in storage. When I first got the car, the car wouldn't want to turn over and start, let alone hold idle for about a few seconds or rev up the RPMs, it would just end up dying about 10 seconds later. I did some cleaning, emptied gas tank which he relined about a year ago so there isn't rust inside, changed fuel filter and thats about it for now. Now the engine will turn over and start most of the time without hesitation. Now heres the thing, it seems to idle quite fine and it revs up but it seems really hesitant and pops frequently from the exhaust and I have to slowly bring up the revs, I can't just floor it otherwise it just falls on its face and either runs rough or dies and there seems to be a noticeable air leak in the front of the car but I don't know where it is. So far I've check the fuel pump with a battery and it is running but I'm not sure if its sending the appropriate pressure of 36.3 PSI during idle let alone if its sending enough when the engine is revved up so I need to check but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge on me yet. Also it's not using the original AFM meter either, seems to be off a later model Z since it only has 5 pins instead of 7 pins like on my AFM connector and it doesn't have the fuel cut off switches. There are some loose vacuum hoses for the HVAC that needs to be worked on as well so I don't know if that's a cause for the trouble as well. Any tips on what to look for to troubleshoot this? I've been using the FSM and looking on forums but I'm kind of running around in circles. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Or if anyone is near the Long Beach, CA area here in LA and could possibly lend me hand that would also be a HUGE HELP to me! I'm also going to be at the Z car show in Orange later this month so catch me there if I can get it running nice by then. Thanks for reading, if you have any questions regarding my fiasco please feel free to let me know, I can clarify on some things that seem out of wack.

I just bought my first Z yesterday, a 1976 Datsun 280Z with 101K, Near perfect interior, some minor body work here and there, new FI system and rebuilt engine, needs a new fuel pump/filter for 1.2K. Im 17 at the moment but I'm in love with this car even though the fuel pump is hindering my ability to drive it (plus it has backfees, curse you california and PO for not putting it as non-op lol), hope to share my little build with everyone in the coming months. My godfather had a 280ZX back in the 80's up until early 2003 when the 350Z had hit dealer showrooms so the Z car presence has been in a good majority of my life. Long live the Z!

Hey guys, I just picked up a 1976 280Z today and I need a fuel pump to get it running, if anyone has one that they want to sell or can point me to the right direction in getting one I'd surely appreciate the help! Thanks guys!