jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Have I stumped everyone? He he
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Hello everyone,
Well, today I'm working on figuring out the wiring for swapping in a 280zx alternator into our 1973 240z. Now, I know that you must eliminate the external regulator by making some connections. I have tracked down the article here:
http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html
Now, here is where my problems start. Here is the connector to the external regulator first of all:
A: Yellow
B: Yellow
C: Black
D: White with black stripe
E: White
F: Black with white stripe
Now, I go to the article and read the following steps on connecting the wires above together. It is as follows:
"2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code.
3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input.
4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V."
Now, this step only talks about four of the six that are even there. What do I do with the other two? Furthermore, there are two yellow wires present. Which yellow one do I connect to the white wire?
Ok, now, assuming we get that figured out, lets look at the connection to the alternator and the back of the alternator itself:
Now, looking at these connections, we have (from right to left) the white with red striped wire, the black (I'm assuming ground), the two wires (white with black stripe and yellow wire) that connect to the "T" connector, and finally, a yellow with black stripe wire. Now, the next steps are as follows:
"6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator.
7. Re-connect the battery and start the engine. With a good digital voltmeter measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. This is the charging voltage. It should be 14.7V +/- 0.3V, but this voltage is a function of the ambient temperature and the state of charge of the battery. If the voltage reading is not correct, then re-check your wiring. More than 15.0V indicates that the "S" connection may not be connected correctly."
Now, I'm pretty sure the low gauge white with red stripe wire connects to the "BAT" terminal on the back of the alternator, and I also understand the that T connector just plugs right in to the "T" input on the back of the alternator, but where does the ground wire go as well as the yellow with black stripe wire? And one more thing, will this be needed? And if so, where does it go? Im assuming it is some sort of capacitor. Pic:
If you guys can help me, that would help me along the way to dropping in our L28ET. Thank you!!
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Alright, so here is the information I've attained. The 5/16 lines will be fine. It is not mandatory to run a surge tank, just as long as you keep the tank above 1/4 full, and replace all rubber hoses and clamps to fuel injection spec. Does this sound right? And one more question, we are thinking about putting a surge tank set up on the fire wall. Would it be possible to cut those lines by the firewall?
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Actually, when we got the car, there was no expansion tank. So we have both 5/16 lines running back to the tank, so it should be fine. The ideal thing to do would to be to put in an efi tank and 3/8 hard lines, but we actually just redid the stock tank (repainted and coated the inside), so its good to go. I think if we run the surge tank setup, we should be fine, dont you guys think?
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Yes, just as the picture states. So, as long as I use the two 5/16 lines I will be fine? And as far as a low pressure pump, we have one mounted in the rear of the car, should we have a second located by the surge tank as shown in the picture above?
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Heres the surge tank setup we would like to run:
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The 5/16" line is fine, but the 1/4" return is too small for EFI. You want zero pressure (flow only) behind the regulator, so that back pressure doesn't effect the high pressure side.
I'm not sure about using a 280Z line, I think they are quite different. I know people that have use two stock 240Z 5/16" lines, one for a feed, the other as a return.
You can also make new lines using 5/16" aluminum tubing (easy to bend). Don't run rubber lines under the car as they can be easily damaged by road debris.
Pete
I believe two of the three lines are actually decent size. The only one that is too small is one of the two on the passenger side, and I belive that was for an evap system or something, I dont even know. But is there anyone out there that uses the stock 240z lines?
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I'm running stock fuel lines and my pressure is between 34psi and 50psi using a rising rate regulator. Most of the problems I was having were the connections using mechanical clamps. They need to be very tight to keep fuel from leaking around the regulator and filter. Other than that, I haven't had any problems. I run a fuel injected RB20DET.
I have a 75 280z with the stock tank and return line.
Yes, but your car already came fuel injected, mine was carburated, and Im trying to understand what I need to do to successfully provide enough fuel to the engine without leaning it out due to my stock tank and possible too small of lines.
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How about some more information? For starters, What Z do you have?
Yeah, true, sorry about that. It is a 1973 240z. It has the stock fuel lines in it. We are dropping a L28ET into it. My understanding was that it is ok to have these lines as long as you run a surge tank. Correct me if I'm wrong. Here is a picture:
There are three lines total. If it is possible to use these stock lines, which ones do we use? I know one of them is really, really small. If not possible, what is another methos of delivering fuel? We are using the stock tank also. I'm assuming it will go like this:
Tank>low pressure pump>stock hard lines>surge tank>high pressure pump>fuel rail>return line to tank
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Hey guys, I'm worried about the stock fuel lines that run the length of the body, the hardlines. Will these lines be fine as long as we have a surge tank setup in the engine bay? Thanks!
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Hello everyone,
I was reading on importtuner.com and came across this article:
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0808_cooling_mods/index.html
I think it is worth the 10 hp gain, what do you guys think?
Here it is on ebay:
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Jacob80 are you using the ZX oil pan ?
Chris
Yes, its a turbo oil pan. We attempted patching a hole ourselves, then once we realized we couldn't, we took it to our local metals shop to have them weld it. The engine is being completely rebuild with new stock replacement pistons. We have also had a head rebuild and everything magnafluxed. We hope to be at about 300 whp and it will be a daily driven street car.
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Heres a small update....
Working on cleaning up the engine bay. I have a question though. For those of you that have filled holes with a mig welder, what are your settings? Here is the welder we are using:
If you look close enough at the engine bay pics, you can see some useless holes. When we attempted to weld a hole in our oil pan, we blew holes right through it, but we were using flux cored wire, so who knows. If you guys could give me a little walk through on how to fill these, that would be great, thanks!
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Hey guys, getting ready to paint an engine bay with all the lines, master cyliner, and most all other accessories in place. Of course the engine and tranny are out right now. My question is, for you guys that left your brake/clutch hard lines in, how did you paint around the lines? I think we will be Por-15ing some light rust spots and repainting the whole engine bay the original brown color. Will we need to grind off all the paint or can we give it a 180 grit sanding by hand and primer and paint? Thanks guys!
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Ok so now I want to drop the driveshaft...how easy do the bolts and nut come off? There is snow on the ground so I don't want to be laying in it very long!
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Then engine is out, so will I need to even unbolt the driveshaft from the differential? I should just be able to unbolt the transmission crossemember, slave cyliner, and tach wires from the transmission and pull it out through the front, correct??
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There are no bolts that connect the transmission to the driveshaft. It's a slip-yoke. You'll need to undo the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the differential, not a big deal. Replace the seals in it, and put some Redline MT-90 in it when you're done.
Are you saying we have to take out the drive shaft I order to take out the transmission? We wanted to just drop the transmission if possible. Also, how do you disconnect the the transmission at the slip yoke?
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Hey guys, we're working on putting an L28ET into our '73 240z and we thought while we have it out, we might as well take the transmission out and have the seals replaced and transmission looked over. I was just wondering how involved this is. My concern is that the flange bolts that connect the transmission to the driveshaft are going to be a pain in the ass. What are your guys' experience with this and how hard is it to break these bolts loose? Is there anything specific we should do with the transmission once we have it out? I am also going to be replacing the insulator. Thanks!
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Of course it is not needed, but I guaratee you the engine is going to have less leak down than if you wouldn't. It is also likely that the overall life of the engine will be longer. I've done some reading and you might as well. Here is some discussion:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/archive/index.php/t-201035.html
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Exactly!
Just torque the main bearing caps.
Yea...considering those are on the opposite side of the engine. The torque plate simulates the head being torqued down on the top side of the block, which "flexes", if you will, the block as it would be assembled.
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Actually nevermind, just called our machine shop and they said they'll just make one for us for $200
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$900.00? Now I do not feel bad having this one made for My RB motor for $500.00
Would you ever consider renting that out so our machinist can hone it with that on it? I believe it will bolt up to an L series engine. Of course it is not necessary, but these practices are what seperate good from great engines.
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Hey guys, been reading up on using a torque plate to simulate a cylinder head being torqued down on the block to simulate the distortion while honing. We did find one, but costs $900! Does anyone have an alternative that is just as effective or possibly a torque plate that someone wouldn't mind renting out
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One question. I know that 2 wire sensors are much better than one wires, so would the head temp sensor threaded into the head work better with megasquirt than the one-green wired sensor on the thermostat housing?
280ZX alternator swap...anyone who has done it, help!!
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Assuming the black with white stripe that goes to the capacitor is the same wire on the regulator connection, it says:
4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V."
Now why would this wire go to a capacitor? Furthermore, the whole time we have run this car, it has just been hanging! Someone has to know a little more about this swap.