socorob
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Posts posted by socorob
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Without the proper equipment it will work you really hard.
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So it just started overheating? Maybe something is clogged? Steam vent ok? When I took my wife's car to get the timing belt changed there was a Toyota truck in there where a guy put the new radiator in and didn't take off the plug that was in the lower radiator port and it overheated and blew the head gasket.
Also maybe the thermostat is too low. If it stays open the water may not be in the radiator long enough to cool. That's where the water restrictors come into play. Isn't 160 a little low for an LS thermostat?
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So it just started overheating? Maybe something is clogged? Steam vent ok? When I took my wife's car to get the timing belt changed there was a Toyota truck in there where a guy put the new radiator in and didn't take off the plug that was in the lower radiator port and it overheated and blew the head gasket.
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I would love to have a nice tow rig setup. This would be mine as long as I'm dreaming.
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A coworker I had a long time ago said he bought one when they first came out. He said he got tired of not being able to find it in big parking lots with all the other huge cars back then, so he put a go kart flag on it so he could easily locate it.
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Is that the car that legends say they dumped a bunch of them into the ocean?
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Its like this, probably something you cant do yourself, but in the time he did the whole car, i doubt you'll have 1 door done with a small home sandblast setup. Compressor is a must, little home ones won't handle it at all. If you have a large tank twin cylinder, you may be able to sand blast but you'll be stopping a lot waiting for the compressor to catch up. It needs massive amounts of air.
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You should use a supplied air respirator with sand. Silicosis is very bad. A friend of mine does media blasting. He uses plastic, sand, and glass. Plastic won't remove rust, but its a little cleaner and he does that in a booth. He is able to scoop it up with a shovel and run it through a filter to reuse it. He will then use sand on the rust spots. The glass is nice. It is mixed with a liquid solution so it makes no dust and you barely need any ppe. I'm not sure how much a setup for home use is, but there's a video of someone doing it in a garage and it only makes a mess a few feet around the perimeter of the car. It doesn't go everywhere.
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Aren't those tired only rated for 40mph?
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With the Taurus fan and Volvo relay, you get 2 speeds with the single fan. The low speed grounds the low speed relay and the high speed grounds the high speed side of the relay. There is a wiring diagram I think I found it on LS1 tech for this setup.
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What kind of anti squat are you shooting for with your 4 link? I would imagine you would want a lot for a drag car. On my Sunbeam I got it pretty close to 0 so the back wouldn't really move up or down under acceleration, but I would think for best straight line traction you would want the back to rise up as much as it can.
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You asked in your car's build thread about a suspension design program. I'm wondering what, if anything, you found? For the same reason you asked, how to figure out how long the upper arms should be, etc.
I have an idea brewing and I want to see if it's feasible.
I used performance trends suspension analyzer to design the 4 link in my straight axle car. It was pretty easy to use for that. It may be much more difficult to do an IRS.
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Nice. I like when people put the cameras on the center of the roof so you get the view of the hood out in front too.
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Just this week here a kid broke his back here in a crash because he slipped the shoulder part of his belt off and got in a wreck. He also got a lot of internal organ damage. Factory had at least some sort of crash testing, where your homemade seat belts probably won't undergo any sort of crash testing.
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Stivva, you sure do like bright shoes on everything!
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What is the purpose of the heim/clevis part in middle of the section?
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You're a brave one. I would have walked away from much less rust than that.
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Were you able to cover those back pieces with a solid piece of material with the curvature of it? also what type of glue did you use and how is it holding up? I want to do some pieces in alcantara when I get to the interior.
I started trying to cover the plastic panels in the hatch. The quarter window piece has a little bit of exposed plastic but it was a first attempt and the underlying plastic is black so its less noticeable. I still need to work on the other side. It is black suede but the sunlight kind of throws the color off. It is the same material I used on the piece in front of the dash.
Here's another pic of the overhead plastic piece where the dome light mounts.Its covered with headliner material.You can see it a little bit in the picture above as well where it meets the quarter window piece. I'm contemplating covering it in the same suede material. -
May be the ones they sell at thebusdepot. They have glass lenses and are failrly inexpensive.
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If I ever get around to getting the outside painted it will definitely go back to the original silver.
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I'm borrowing it on the weekends. Car has to be able to go on skates to slide out the way during the week.
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I was only going to metaphorically cut them. I'm trying to work on getting everything possible off of the front so I can sand, scrape, grind, weld....you get the picture. This is how far I am. Anyone need anything I'm pulling off, let me know.
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You may want to bring a wench along too, in case the battery dies and you need someone to push the car up the ramps.
z32 swap
in Drivetrain
Posted
I got mine from a 1991 Infiniti Q45. It has the larger CV shafts with 6 bolts, and is a 3.54 ratio. As mentioned above, try a local u pull it type of yard. I got the driveshaft to the brakes for $180.