Eric JB

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Post up some pics if you get the chance.

81 and later trucks had the nap Z engine. It was slanted the opposite direction in the engine compartment. It's pretty common to have to swap bellhousings to put it behind an L motor. Also be aware that the truck transmissions had a lower 1st gear, so there will be a broader gap between 1st and 2nd. That is a 71B, since the shifter is different on the 71C.

Here is an OE bus joint. notice that it is heat treated. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=en0wyf45idbrq145embfxj45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1285826@BUS, CAMP, TRANSPORT &year=1971&cid=17@Drivetrain Parts&gid=2292@CV Joint And here is an OE Porsche 930 (911 turbo) joint. Also, heat treated.http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=en0wyf45idbrq145embfxj45&makeid=800019@Porsche&modelid=1262629@911 TURBO&year=1981&cid=17@Drivetrain Parts&gid=2292@CV Joint Also notice how much thicker the outer body of the 930 is than the bus. The Bus can take 17 degrees of constant angle, and 19 intermittently. The 930 joint can take 19 degrees constant, and 21 intermittently. That is why they are preferred by the off road guys.

Thank you for the clarification. This topic has bothered me for a long time, and this discussion needs to be had. Being an old VW guy since the 70's, as soon as I saw the $1000 kit that is offered by some, I recognized it. As I said, your stuff looks very nice, actually the only kit I would consider if I had the $$$. I might be able to pull the trigger on a pair of stubs, someday. The main reason people step up to the real 930 cv's, is because they will survive with more angle than the bus cv. Not something we would be concerned with. Nothing wrong with a bus cv. But I wish people would call it what it is.

Well at least you didn’t get the silver , made in Taiwan shafts that many other vendors sell. The Cv joints are stock VW bus. They already come with heat treated internals but the vendors like to take credit for it. They are plenty strong enough for the task. Just sad that the vendors can’t be honest about what they are selling, and hide behind the Porsche 930 “style” description. The axles are most likely a VW bus trans to a beetle chassis conversion axle(15.625). Silver zinc is cheap EMPI crap. Powder coated white or red is usually Sway Away. Made in USA. Black I’m not sure but they look to be a stout piece. I would like to find the source of those. The MM stuff looks really good, but way too rich for this old tight ass. I will be buying my pieces separately and making the rest myself. Good luck. BTW the $1000 kits that many sell, can be bought on EBay for $480 without the adapters.

TrackZpeed, sorry to hear about your problems with your CV axle kit. And sorry for the people on here, who take sides with the vendor to the point of insulting your ability. Much like yourself, I am an old gearhead wrench spinner, and If they only knew what I know about these "Porsche 930 style" kits, they wouldn't be on the vendor's side. But please indulge me for a moment, and give me some info. What is the OAL of the axle shaft? 16.250, or 15.625? Is it silver zinc plated? or powder coated? And if so, what color? Did the CV joints come in a box wrapped in a greasy brown paper? Does the box reveal where they were made? Is there a 9 digit number on the box or part itself? Does it start with a 931 or a 211? JMO, for $2600, they should practically install themselves.

Hey Racerteck, So are you running the same 35 count, 30 degree pressure angle splines on the outer stubs and flanges as well?

Most of them sell 930 "style" cv's. What they really are is VW bus cv's. The original German cv's used, will be better than new Chinese ones. I drag raced and sand duned for years with those joints and broke a LOT of parts. Never a bus CV. Off road racers prefer the 930 cv's because they will worker at steeper angles than the bus cv's.

A part number for those bearings would be helpful.

I would agree that even real NHRA inspectors are very much on the honor system. I have been asked if I have a driveshaft loop, and saying yes was good enough. Even when they find something they don't like, they usually let you run, but ask you to change it for next time. But I have also seen where they will give you warnings about approaching a milestone ET and not being equipped for it. .

Way pro active. I'm just thinking about where I want to go with my racing. Right now I am in Sportsman. (12.00 and slower) but the car will go 11.8x. So I spent the last year trying to slow it down to stay in the class. Not much fun. I could move up to Pro, but I really don't like racing from the rear view mirror. Which leads me to making the car go faster. (way more fun) I like racing the Z, and have done pretty well with it. It works well and runs the number, but I know there will come a time when I have to do something about the ass end. It might be due to breakage. But it might be due to rules. I don't care much for the big tire solid axle thing. I like the way it looks, and drives right now. The easiest thing to do is add weight, choke it off and stay in Sportsman. Not my style. So as you can see, I'm waffling back and forth.

I have found that mine has way cooler engine compartment temps with lots of initial timing. What dist does it have? Do you have a vac can? If so, try setting it at 34 degrees full advance without the can, and the hook the can to manifold vacuum, instead of ported vacuum.

The driveshaft loop I built for my truck was a 1/4" wall piece of pipe cut 2" long, and then welded to a bracket. The one on the Z is two pieces of strap bolted together. Since the Z isn't a swingaxle design, I am thinking a couple of clam shells bolted to the transverse arm might appease them. Kinda surprised no one else has run into this issue.

right out of the rulebook. "Cars running 10.99 (*6.99)or quicker that weigh more than 2,000 pounds with independent rear suspension without upper and lower (both) control arms must replace swing axle differential with conventional differential housing assembly (Example 1963-1982 Corvette). Cars with independent rear suspension with upper and lower (both) control arms may retain swing axle assembly regardless of weight or e. t. " Yes, sorry for the confusion. The point I was trying to make was, since the Z only has one trailing arm, transverse arm, control arm, (you choose) there is no way to mount halfshaft loops between the upper and lower, since the upper doesn't exist.

I am 76 280z. mild 408sbc/700r.