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G-Tech last won the day on May 13 2017

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  1. The Differential will swap but you have to look at the flange that the driveshaft bolts up too. If yours is round, you will have to swap that over(FYI, it doesnt just pull off, you need some sort of puller. Even just a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight). The 300zx half shafts and stub axles i do not believe swap over. If you want something stronger than universal joint half shafts you need to source 280zxt companion flanges and CV-joints. I have custom made stub axles that allow me to run 300zxt cv joints. The company that made mine are out of business. Z car depot might make something. If you do the 280zxt cv joints, they will work in any R-200 (longnose) Diff. And you will only need the 280zxt inner stub axle (called companion flange). Your stock outer stub axle is the same as a 280zxt. Which if you are running alot of HP (400+) and a stick shift. The outer stub axle is your week point. If your under 300hp you will be fine.
  2. The only thing i can really answer for you is the Diff question. That Diff will be plenty strong but you will be doing 1 wheel burnouts until you put some sort of LSD in it. I run Quaife LSD and love it. There are other makes out there that people like too. Good luck with the swap!!
  3. Selling my Techno Toy Tuning Strut brace. I love that it ties into the firewall. It just gets in the way with my LS motor setup. I had the 2 firewall ties Anodized Black to match a little better. There is 1 spot on each side that i had to remove a little material for clearance with my motor set. It is on the underside so it won't be visible and i touched it up with some paint. Goes for $350 plus shipping ( i just put one in cart on website and with tax and shipping came to $405) I will sell mine for $250 +$25 shipping (in the states/ maybe Canada too) $275 shipped
  4. I don't know much about that swap but i have put a LS in my 280zx. At the end of the swap you will have the chassis electrical (interior/exterior lighting and any accessories you choose to keep or add), and you will have the engine and drivetrain electrical (engine, trans ). I have the stock computer still for chassis stuff and i have a 1999 Camaro computer that controls the engine and tranny. What i think you need to focus on is first getting the computer out of the G35 and either stripping the wire harness and sorting out the engine and trans portion of it or if you can, sourcing an aftermarket standalone wire harness just for your motor and trans. Basically, you want the motor to still think it's in the G35.
  5. I used them along time ago. They worked great. Fitment was real well. I have them hanging on a wall still because i had a couple welds crack and leak. I wouldn't let that make you not order them though. There isn't many options out there. They can get re-welded. I have rack and pinion steering for what is worth
  6. Dude!!! My inspiration!!!! Welcome back. your car is what convinced me to go v8 like 15yrs ago. Started with SBC 300hp. 4 motors later im at a 416 LS3. Your car is looking good! You still running a LT1? I was super impressed with what you did with that motor
  7. Looks great, really clean looking body! Eibach makes 1in lowering springs. That is what i started with. The pic is with 1in springs. Probably all he needs. If he wants to go any lower, he will need Techno toy tuning coilovers. That is what i have now. The front can only go down at most 2in before it needs the shortened struts that Techno toy makes.
  8. i think you are spot on for a sure thing fit. I have 17x7 front and 17x8 rear 225/45 up front and 235/45 rear. the only thing i did different then what you are talking about is i have 0 offset. but +4 is less than 3/16 of an inch so i dont think that will hurt you any. The front you have to make sure the tire doesn't hit the strut (i think you will be fine). The rear i had a problem with mine when the car squats, it would actually hit the front of the wheel well lip. That is from V8 torque. if it is still 6cyl you will be fine. Mine is lowered 2-3in
  9. Just to put my 2 cents in about stock aftermarket cv-axles. I bought the same trakmotive axles from Rockauto. They worked fine in my 280zx (different car i know). The main thing i noticed was the main shaft is a noticeably smaller diameter than stock. They worked fine other than that. I swapped them out after finding used OEM cv's. Ill keep them for backup but i was a lil concerned about strength for high HP
  10. Have you tried zcarsource or zcardepot? there used to be a company called black dragon and that is where i got my rack 10yrs ago. One of those companies bought all of black dragon's stock when they went outta business. Let me know what you find. I may be in need of another one myself
  11. Buyer beware with show cars in Ontario. DO NOT give him any money till something is completed. I dont feel like going into my huge mess i got into with him. I will say it was like 10years ago so maybe things got better but i would most certainly NOT give him money unless he has something done and ready to ship. You run into issues when a business you have problems with is technically in a different country. I ended up sending a shipping company to his door 1yr later just to take whatever part of a hood of mine he had. I sold it for $50, that's how bad it was. If he has something in stock and sends you pictures of it then you may have no choice but to get it. I know how hard it is to get things for s130's.
  12. Do a lil research to determine whether you have an r180 or r200 diff now. There is info based on what options your car has that will help u figure out which diff urs came with. or look up pictures of the 2 different ones and look at urs. The r200 will be fine as is for atleast 300hp and an automatic trans. A stick shift puts more abuse obviously. You will only do 1 wheel burnouts. There are options for a limited slip center section that u can have installed, all are pretty good. You might want to have cv-joint half shafts that came in the turbo models. U mostlikly have universal joint halfshafts ( again, do a lil research to determine). If you switch to cv-joints, you will need companion flanges for them to bolt to. i have an extra set i would sell for like $150. The companion flange is the other half of the stub axle. The stub axle is the main weak point but again, depends on the HP and auto vs stick shift. I have a 1983 280zx with 400whp LS, Stick shift that i drag race and beat on constantly. it still has the r200 with Quaife Limited slip, W/ 300zxt CV-joints and custom heat treated stubaxles.
  13. Those are for 280z not the ZX. Unfortunately i dont have any better advice. i made my own patch panels and got fenders from a company that doesnt exist anymore. Zcarsource might have fenders if it comes to that.
  14. I just rebuilt my Diff. Z car depot and Z carsource both sell Nissan Bearings. I too wanted Nissan Bearings. I don't think Whitehead is delayed because of adding to the order. I think they are just overwhelmed with orders. He was supposed to get back to me about a price on a built diff and never did. And my stubaxles i ordered 5yrs ago was something he said would be done in 6 weeks and i waited 9months. I only dealt with waiting that long because it was winter and im in NY. I was breaking stock axles and they were the only ones at the time offering stronger ones.
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