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G-Tech last won the day on May 13 2017

G-Tech had the most liked content!

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About G-Tech

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    rochester ny

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  1. i love hearing about all the different solutions s130 owners come up with for different obstacles. Like a dodge omni steering rack!? Mine is doing great, so i dont even want to ask how the apex front crossmember is or how you did the s13 rear sub and etc, etc...i am trying to leave mine alone right now. Cant wait to see some pics though. here is a couple from mine this year. Anyone else want to check in!? received_359124161793853.mp4
  2. i too have the MSA kit but i have the front bumper with fog lights. the side skirts are a pain to hold close to the fender. i fiberglassed a 6mm stud to the back side and drilled a hole in the fender for it. you are able to reach in thru the wheel well to put a nut on it. Skillard.com just came out with a different body kit for it that is nice looking. and there is no great option for widebody kits other than some old 80's design's. there are some wheel flare options though As stated before STAY AWAY from Showcars.com, i had a horrible experience with them. PS: 280zx is different car tha
  3. Hey, would you happen to have a yoke for an r200 diff with all that stuff? 

    1. G-Tech


      are you talking about the splined shaft and flange that the half shafts mount too? i have a set of stock half shafts that have them on there? if your talking about something for the driveshaft end of the r200, i do not have anything  

  4. IM NOT A BIG SELLER OF THINGS, JUST TRYING TO MAKE ROOM ON MY STORAGE SHELF. IF MY PRICING IS A LITTLE HIGH I AM OPEN TO OFFERS. All Pricing DOES NOT include shipping. if your interested, send me your Zip code and i will get you the cost for shipping Stub axle and Companion Flanges are $150 for the set, i will sell just companion flanges for $100 for the set. Or just stub axles for $50 for the set (1 SET LEFT) Custom Made Companion Flanges Adapters (280zx flange with 280zxt CV-joint adapter welded too it) $50 for the set 280zx Universal Joint Hal
  5. Before i ask, i want to point out that i did donate to the site. So i dont want to be taken as someone trying to sell stuff without following proper procedure. Time to get rid of some things i no longer need. Looking for an opinion on what they might be worth. i currently have a couple sets of 280zxt stub axles and companion flanges and even a set of adapter companion flanges that i made (in my machine shop), also i have a few 280zxt CV-joints that i think i need to sell individually cause somehow i ended up with 3 driver sides and 1 pass side. 1 has good rubber boots, the other 3 need ru
  6. I went to take pictures of the plug but the wires are completely wrapped and you cannot see any colors of the wires. Here are the pics but dont think its gonna help
  7. If no one does before I get home later I'll get you the pic this evening
  8. 1st should be which ever has the better body. If they are both similar in condition you should keep the 280z. The zx has less support from companies for parts. Possibilities are endless with the s30 chassis. You could always get the zx running and just drive it while you get the 280z ready for the motor swap.
  9. Basically what you have are generic tractor trailer tail lights. They are nice and simple and there are lots of options for them. i would atleast find LED ones so they are bright and look a little more custom. When you do LED's the car might think that the bulb is blown cause there is little resistance with LED lights. if it does that, you may want to get a resistor to put inline so the blinker doesnt blink 100mph. They are only like $7 each and install super easy. i use that style light also but i kinda went crazy and made my own tail light buckets and lens to house the tail lights to g
  10. i have a 280ZX with LS swap that has 400WHP and a 6-speed. i have the stock r-200 with Quaife internals. that has held up flawlessly. there are other options for internals for the r-200 also. that diff should handle it fine.The problem you will have is if you still have universal joint half shafts and then stub axles was the week link i found. Mine beeing a stick shift though is harder on the drivetrain. you might be fine if you just upgrade to 280zxt CV joints and you will have to switch the stub axle companion flange also. (both of which i have that i would sell if you decide to go that rout
  11. This was what i did for mine. This is a MSA front bumper that i fiber glassed over the blinkers and found headlights with blinkers. but nothing like an older Z either
  12. You kinda have the same dream as alot of zx owners. Unfortunately I've never seen it done to great success. Your car is surprisingly different than the older 240,260 and even 280z..if your very talented with body work and or have some money to pay someone talented, you can be the 1st. My suggestion is embrace the uniqueness of the 280zx (s130 chassis)...i have a 280zx also so I'm on your side...
  13. depends how well it ends up running as is. chances are you will chase down a handful of little issues. in which case you mine as well go for the swap so that you can get to know it better and make things right. it will be a little faster also. Value wise i think going for the swap is going to be better too. it doesnt look like an original turbo car so there is not big value for it the way it is. older Z's are getting good money for original but i dont know anyone that specifically searches for an original 280zx. only turbo 280zx's are worth leaving as is, the rest are free to do whatever with
  14. i dont see why you would need to swap crossmember, the motors are the same as far as bolting to the car goes. the suspension is the same, no need to change that either. i think the hardest thing is going to be swapping the harness. the rearend is possibly different. turbo cars are R200's with 3:54 gears. you will have to find out based on what exact model you have to know what rearend you have. the CV joint style halfshaft in the turbo car is much better. for that you will also need the outer stub axles that mate up to it. Bottom line is i think you will want to swap the entire rear subf
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