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G-Tech last won the day on May 13 2017

G-Tech had the most liked content!

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About G-Tech

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  1. as long as its a hydraulic clutch you'll be in good shape. you wanna get a better clutch master cyl from willwood the stock master cyl is not good enough, but they are not too badly priced. a great thing about a SBC is there is no wire harness necessary. you have ignition wire for distributor, mark your original wires for tachometer signal, the starter, power for alternator which i think the JTR manual explains, you'll run new wires for any sensors you want. it is very simple, just take it 1 piece at a time and at some point the list gets shorter. if you have power steering, make note of which hose is the pressure line and return line. make special note that power steering rack is metric so you need to make a hose to go from English pwr steering pump to metric pwr steering rack. i dont think there is any specific radiator hoses, i just made a diagram of what i needed and went behind the counter of autozone and looked thru the selection. you can always return them and switch out for others if you dont get it right. and last thing that im thinking of is make sure you ground the motor to the body. i ran a cable from the back of the head to the firewall. i think i just wrote a book , write down what you need to know for a check list and just cross things off as you go. let me know what else you need as you go.
  2. thats right, we can practice social distancing in our cars no doubt!!! amazing build, everything was done to just the right caliber!!!
  3. im not around you but ive done this swap. whatever you can get from JTR will help alot (motor mounts, headers, radiator ) they make the best stuff for this swap. you will need to upgrade the fuel pump but a Holley Red or Black (depending on HP requirments)will fit right in place of the original without too much work.the pump is a bit noisy but best fuel pump on a budget. i think it was motorsport auto that makes a speedo cable for an turbo350 trans to connect to your speedo (didnt quiet read right but once you figure out how far off it was then atleast you have something). you can easily make some autometer gauges fit where the 3 in the dash are for oil pressure, volts and trans temp if automatic. save the ignition wire when your stripping the things out. youll need it for the distributor. its going to be a lil nose heavy so you'll lose some handling but it will be a blast in a straight line. and alot less work then doing a LS swap.
  4. Sounds like you know enough about the car then. Just be careful buying a parts car. Its mostlikly gonna have the same problems. But if u can find a solid one then sounds like a good idea
  5. Zcar depot and zcarsource will have alot of that stuff and are good for original parts. Motorsport auto is good too, just sometimes are lil more money. Not sure about the quarter panel replacement, how it comes off. If it's not easy mayb look at using a quarter panel to get the pieces u need off it. They are unibody so there is no real frame. Just frame like structure that u will probably need to fix. Just keep it as simple as u can and do piece by piece. There is alot of places for rust on them. So you know the 280zx (s130 chassis) is not at all like the older 240, 260, or even the 280z. It's kind of the black sheep of the z's. It just looks like the older ones. I have the same car as you and it was my grandfather's from new so I feel your want to keep it for sentimental reasons. Goodluck, it's a good and fun car you have. try to do piece by piece. And save whatever you can cause some parts are not accessible anymore or cost alot because they are hard to get.
  6. last thing ill say is you probably wanna stay with -3 all the way around. you dont really want the rear to stick out anymore than it will. i know you mayb wanna a staggered look, thats why i did 7 wide in front. but if you look at this pic you will see the rear looks inside the wheel well at the top but near the bottom the tire is wider than the fender and thats 0-offset 8in wide. if you do 16 then your going to be 5/8in wider than what you see in this pic. good luck with your choice, its stressful i know cause once you purchase them, thats it!!!
  7. i run front 17x7 0-offset with 225/45/17 and rear 17x8 0-offset 235/45/17 and they fit with no issue. i know some can fit wider but im happy with my setup and its not pushing any limits so its one less thing to worry about. because i have 400whp (via LS motor) it squats real hard and i had to trim the front of the rear wheel well cause as it squats the wheel pulls forward cause of the trailing arm design. i have since bumped my rear spring rate from stock 125lb to now 400lb springs to keep the squating to a limit...but the pic will show what it used to do with 280lb springs. bottom line is what i told you that i run fits fine, no issues at all other than minor trimming if you run higher HP. you can probably squeeze a lil more if others are saying they have. also if you have a 9inch wide rim and running 225 wide tires your putting less rubber to the road than my 8in wide with a 235 wide so an extra 1in of rim doesnt mean anything.
  8. the plastic dash covers are almost as good as the real thing. i just found out not to leave the car sitting in the sun cause the sun will warp it. i just use a sun shade in the windshield and its been mint for 5yrs now. no one has ever noticed its a cover. not like those carpet covers ... motorsport auto sells them and i know there is others that sell them too. this is the only pic i was able to find. and i dont know that ive ever seen a whole dash for sale in good shape. if there is your going to have to pay whatever they are asking.
  9. Idk why your on a datsun forum asking this question but because I love escorts I'm going to answer it and tell you to lay out cause they look great that way and dont do any performance mods because its WRONG WHEEL DRIVE !!!!. If you had $500K I'd tell you to make it all wheel drive.
  10. im pretty sure thats not an easy one. they are different chassis.
  11. you talking front or rear? either way they should be the same part. no real change i dont think from 81-83. idk if the rear springs are mayb stiffer in a 2+2. that im not sure of. if you wanna do a slight performance upgrade get tokico or kyb struts. they are pretty cheap and will give you a lil more performance ride. you can also do eibach springs all around that will give you more sporty ride and only lowers the car 1in, also pretty affordable. thats how it all started for me.
  12. The other one is Joe from chequered flag racing. I just forgot the other website that he has that is more up to date...if driveshaft shop makes stub axles for a 280zx that would be good to know and worth looking into
  13. Yes, there is Whitehead performance in Canada but there is also another one in the states that I forget the name of. They are not cheap but if your running 400+ hp and have a stick shift it's going to be a necessary upgrade. If you have slightly less hp and an auto trans you will be less likely to snap it I'd say. I went all out and did 300m 39spline stubs and converted to 300zx cv joints and I've been beaten on it for 5 yrs now, no issue at all
  14. yes, you can use 280zx cv joints. i have a quaife rear in my r200 and love it. put many of miles @ 400whp to it and the 280zx cv joints held up fine. the stub axles were the weak point for me.
  15. if you look at the pan like there is 3 different depths to it. the middle depth of the pan will be too low for you to get the motor down low enuff. it will sit on top the steering rack. i wanted the motor down low enuff to clear the strut tower brace. i have a power steering car so my experience is from that but oil pan and headers is where i spent the most.
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