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G-Tech

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G-Tech last won the day on May 13 2017

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About G-Tech

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  1. I had a small block chevy in my 280zx and it was very nose heavy...the car lost alot of handling....when I switched to the LS (which was alot more work, believe it or not) the car got all its balance back. Its lighter now then it was from the factory....well worth beeing alum block if you ask me IMG950995.3gp
  2. if your saying 3-1/2" is from the lowest part of the car to the ground. id say your at the limit of going low and still driving most places. im 4" and i clear most things. you just have to know when you pull in somewhere to pull in on an angle to help clear the front end if thats low too.
  3. The bumper on top I've only seen in pictures from cars in Japan, so not sure you can get it in the states. The front end on the bottom looks like someone made the grill and lower air dam from an older z fit somehow...it actually looks like they did a good job. I dont know how easy it would be cause I've never seen that before. I would check out MSA (motorsport auto)...you can do a simple lower airdam to add a different look or I bought their full front bumber with the fog light buckets molded in. I'm pretty happy with it, definitely changed up the front end. Alot of people (me included) like the look of the older z front grill but you will find that the 280zx is very different from the 240,260, and 280z...many people have tried to make the zx front look like the older z's and I've seen only a couple good results...all depends on how much knowledge and experience you have with doing body mods
  4. Sorry that I dont know about your exact setup but when I put an MSD ignition on my zx I had to get a tach adapter to get the tach to work...dont know if the msd tach adapter only worked with their ignition box or not but mayb that gives you a direction to research. Good luck
  5. I would say it's better to replace things like the exhaust with a better exhaust or replace suspension with better than OEM parts....the turbo model was the top notch option for zx's...if it was a turbo model and not already modified, then I would say it's best to keep it pure for resale value....the 280zx isnt getting alot of appreciation and unless its absolutely original, I dont see anyone paying top dollar cause its 10th aniv. It also cost alot to make a zx pretty fast with horsepower and all that. So you wont get your money back. I think someone will pay respectable money for a good running one with mild upgrades... That's my 2 cents anyway
  6. Very cool to hear!!! I've been seeing your post for while now. Never really followed to close as I'm a s130 guy but to hear your driving it is awsome!!. So often there are threads of builds that go longer than expected. I've been a victim of it too. So congrats on beeing a guy that's completing one to a point you can drive it again. They are never done, so keep it up...
  7. I will say with all the support from this forum which I didnt know about when I did mine you can mayb do it in a months time. But there will be things like the driveshaft that u dont know what length u need until u fit everything then have to have someone make one.
  8. I like to encourage people to do the sbc swap cause it is alot easier to do than a ls swap into the 280zx but u should get another beater for a daily driver temporarily...you will never be able to think of every part u need and do the swap in a weeks time...there will always be a fitting or hose or random pieces u will need to get along the way....I rented a barn for 2 months and I knew it had to be done in that amount of time. It was a grind getting it done in that time.
  9. congrats!!! good job sticking with it. i think the best thing i learned is you found a different oil pan that works. also probably helped going turbo so you didnt have to squeeze headers down by the steering shaft. what did you do with the power steering? i bet it pulls real good beeing turboed. i would definitely get some frame support in there, get that Rad support put back some how. i think beeing an automatic will help wear and tear on the rear end, cv joints, and stub axles. i blame hard lauches with my standard trans as the reason i snapped stub axles. cool, you have something fun to mess with the big boys now. stock mustangs and camaro's will be no match.
  10. I used PSI wire harness. It was very good harness, u can choose options like a/c or not and auto or manual trans and which trans it is. I used the harness just for the motor and accessories....I left the chassis wiring (headlights, taillights, interior lights) alone.
  11. as long as its a hydraulic clutch you'll be in good shape. you wanna get a better clutch master cyl from willwood the stock master cyl is not good enough, but they are not too badly priced. a great thing about a SBC is there is no wire harness necessary. you have ignition wire for distributor, mark your original wires for tachometer signal, the starter, power for alternator which i think the JTR manual explains, you'll run new wires for any sensors you want. it is very simple, just take it 1 piece at a time and at some point the list gets shorter. if you have power steering, make note of which hose is the pressure line and return line. make special note that power steering rack is metric so you need to make a hose to go from English pwr steering pump to metric pwr steering rack. i dont think there is any specific radiator hoses, i just made a diagram of what i needed and went behind the counter of autozone and looked thru the selection. you can always return them and switch out for others if you dont get it right. and last thing that im thinking of is make sure you ground the motor to the body. i ran a cable from the back of the head to the firewall. i think i just wrote a book , write down what you need to know for a check list and just cross things off as you go. let me know what else you need as you go.
  12. thats right, we can practice social distancing in our cars no doubt!!! amazing build, everything was done to just the right caliber!!!
  13. im not around you but ive done this swap. whatever you can get from JTR will help alot (motor mounts, headers, radiator ) they make the best stuff for this swap. you will need to upgrade the fuel pump but a Holley Red or Black (depending on HP requirments)will fit right in place of the original without too much work.the pump is a bit noisy but best fuel pump on a budget. i think it was motorsport auto that makes a speedo cable for an turbo350 trans to connect to your speedo (didnt quiet read right but once you figure out how far off it was then atleast you have something). you can easily make some autometer gauges fit where the 3 in the dash are for oil pressure, volts and trans temp if automatic. save the ignition wire when your stripping the things out. youll need it for the distributor. its going to be a lil nose heavy so you'll lose some handling but it will be a blast in a straight line. and alot less work then doing a LS swap.
  14. Sounds like you know enough about the car then. Just be careful buying a parts car. Its mostlikly gonna have the same problems. But if u can find a solid one then sounds like a good idea
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