Soundmasterg
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Posts posted by Soundmasterg
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They put Egypt in the wrong place...it should be on the left of Israel and Iraq should be where Egypt is......FOX news are dummies
Greg
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I've got a T5 driveshaft out of a 2+2 that I'd sell cheap. You might be able to get it shortened....
If you're interested PM me.
Greg
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Sure, but sending me pics would be quick and easy. Just PM me if you have any available that I can look at.
I just took some pics and I'll PM you. Thanks!
Greg
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That looks like a pretty cool track! I'd be interested in joining in if people from the Z community were going to be going there.
Greg
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It's not easy. Look at the casting of both the compressor and turbine housings. There should be some number(s) inscribed on the side indicating A/R. BTW, a .82 A/R turbine housing is the max I'd use on a street L28 but only if I was willing to sacrifice spool for peak HP. Personally I prefer a .63 A/R turbine.
Thanks,
I'll have to see if I can spot any numbers on it. I got this one because the price was good and Hugh talked me into it, but I'm not opposed to selling it and getting a .63 or something more correct. I haven't built the engine yet so I can tailor it to whichever turbo I end up with. Since you're local to me, maybe you might be able to look at this turbo and tell me what it is that I have one of these days?
Greg
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I have a subscription to GRM, how does Classic Motorsports compare? More focused on classics I presume, but do they keep the DIY and budget mindful aspect? And how do they define classic? British and Datsun I guess, but Detroit?
Just got a '86 325E and now must go find that article on the 200x challenge team who turbo'ed one.
Classic Motorsports is just like Grassroots, but dedicated to classic cars only. It is the same publisher, and has all kinds of classics and has the same grassroots mentality. Its a cool magazine for sure! Try it out...you'll like it.
Greg
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Remember, you only need a spacer if you have a compressor housing larger than .50 AR. The larger .60 housing is actually better if you plan to use a spacer.
How do you tell which housing you have? I bought a rebuilt T3/T04E at the Canby show and I don't have much info on it besides that the exhaust is a .82 or something like that. Still trying to figure out what all these numbers and A/R ratios and trim stuff means and how my turbo fits into the equation.
Thanks,
Greg
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I've got a good extra door with a window regulator that is good. I got the door last year from Bryan Miner. I'm local too, so if you're interested, send me a PM and I can send you my phone number. I'll be at the vintage races this weekend at PIR also.
Greg
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The 240Z never had wind tunnel testing before the shape was finalized (who did tunnel testing at all in 1968 for street cars?) and no changes were done to address what it lacked in high speed aerodynamics during the entire 10 year production run. Changes to the 240Z all had to do with bumper/side safety, emissions reductions, some differential placement problems, the advent of unleaded fuel, and increasing engine size just to keep performance from slipping.
Counter that scenario with the ZX. The ZX already had the mature driveline available so it spent a lot of time on new chassis optimization. Shape optimization meant that there was a lot of wind tunnel testing on the chassis shape done before the a shape was finalized. Low drag and high speed stability were designed into the car and (other than the turbo and rear disk brakes) was one of the few high points in the entire design. The car is marvelously stable at 120mph in stock form because it was made to do that and Nissan did it well.
It all came down to focus. The 240z had to be stylish and reliable to beat the competition; the 280ZX built on that reliability and style and added aero improvements when they did the chassis redesign. Really nice, subtle use of filling several gaps, adding a chin spoiler, and adding a shallow depression just before the front seam of the hatch just to name a few. NOW the car was one of the slickest ever made in the 80's.
The weird thing with aerodynamics is that something butt ugly like the Audi 5000 had a drag coefficient of .29 in the 80's, so Nissan could have done better with the ZX I guess. That said, I bet the ZX is more fun to drive......
Greg
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I was hit by someone who had Geico about 6 years ago and it was one of the worst companies to deal with. The rep that I had to talk to was in LA (I'm in Oregon) and he wouldn't return calls and kept stringing me on even though his client was at fault and had admitted guilt. I finally reported them to the state insurance board and got it settled within a week after that. Hope you don't get the same experience but despite all their advertising, Geico isn't a very good insurance company to deal with IMHO.
Greg
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I think you missed this thread because you must have been out driving your Z, right Skib?
Greg
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I have a book that came from dealerships when they were first introducing the ZX.
It mentions extensive wind tunnel testing and explains the Cd (drag coefficient) went from 0.467 for the S30 down to ~0.385. Clf (lift coefficient) went from 0.41 to 0.11 and Cmv (yaw coefficient, how well it handles side-winds) went from 0.10 to 0.04.
I figured you'd find a use for that book sooner or later Hugh. Glad you seem to like it!
Greg
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It is 38 1/2" long. That is from the back of it to the front of the T5 slip joint where it would go into the transmission.
I'd sell it for $35 + shipping.
Send me a pm if you're interested.
Greg
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I liked NASCAR when I was little and Richard Petty was racing, and when they still used a "stock" car as the basis of their race cars instead of building a tube frame thing that just looks like a stock car.
Greg
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Happy bday Rob!
Greg
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How long is the driveshaft you are trying to put in? I've got a T5 2+2 turbo driveshaft here also that I don't need. If it was longer than yours I'd sell it cheap. How much longer of one do you need?
Greg
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Grassroots Motorsports and Classic Motorsports are my two favorite mags.....I keep all of them and refer to them sometimes. They're not too expensive either....there are more expensive mags out there that don't give you half of what these do.
Greg
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I can't understand why people are having trouble getting the Honda wiper motor working....its pretty easy. You either find the right one that fits right off the bat or get the one you have to grind the shaft on, but they aren't that hard to put in........
Greg
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Have you made sure the valves are correctly adjust before you check the compression? Having the valves out of adjustment will give you inaccurate readings.
Greg
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I did this to my 240Z and it works great! The Honda motor is a little faster than a normal Z motor in good shape, and is easier to get and cheaper. If you luck out and get the Civic one that already has the correct shape it is much easier to put in, but you have to hunt for those ones. I found one after looking in about 20 Hondas and put it in. Before that I had one I ground the shaft on and while it worked fine, I ground the shaft at slightly the wrong angle and the wipers wouldn't rest in the right place.
Greg
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Well then I should be able to use the one I have......which makes it easier. My friend has a manual trans one though that the bolt holes had to be drilled out to fit up to the T5, and it was supposedly from an F54 block....so maybe they aren't all quite the same?
Thanks for the answer regardless!
greg
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Yeah, I was kidding and giving you a hard time for posting to this thread: Youngins: How'd you end up with a Z?
I think Roger is nutz for building a high-comp motor with 0.550" lift and eyebrowed pistons for street use. He'll have to bring a barrel of Sunoco 260 race gas on the cruises, lol.
I think he still lives off Jackson school road. I wonder what happened with the place he bought out at Hagg lake...his shop was giant, but I hear the one at Hagg lake is the size of a hanger.
Yeah, we'll have to see how well Roger's motor runs. The way I figure it...he's got the money for race gas...haha.
He does live off Jackson School Road, and he still has the Hagg Lake place too. He's been trying to sell the house in town for awhile, but with the economy tanking its a hard time to sell. The shop out at Hagg is very nice, and large. You can fit 5 or 6 Z's in there I would think!
I live in between his Hillsboro and Hagg lake houses in Cornelius, though I don't have a nice shop to check out...haha.
Greg
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I'm wondering about something here, and I haven't been able to find it with a search or three, so I thought I'd ask....
If I swap a T5 into my 240Z on the back of the L24, do I use the stock backing plate that came with the engine? Further, later on when I swap a turbo L28ET into my 240Z, do I use the L24 backing plate or do I have to find a L28ET backing plate? My L28ET was an automatic so that backing plate won't work.....
I haven't found any mention of backing plates anywhere when people talk about these swaps, so you would think that any old one would work...but I know someone who is doing a swap of a F54 block L28 into his 240Z with a T5 and he's having all sorts of issues trying to find the right backing plate.
Anyone have any recommendations for the correct backing plate for each conversion?
Thanks,
Greg
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Diesel engines typically get about 30% better fuel economy for a given amount of fuel, are simpler in many ways (no spark plugs, no coil, no cap, no rotor), are usually more robust and last longer, have gobs of low end torque......
The downside to the Maxima diesel engine is that its an old school indirect injection engine instead of the modern direct injection engine style, which means when you compare them to a modern diesel it has less power and torque, less economy, more noise, and more pollution.
I'd think a modern BMW diesel 6 cylinder would be a great choice, but good luck finding one outside of Europe......
Greg
Phlebmaster's 240Z Evolution, 56k fah-getta-bout-it. ;-)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Looks like you're getting good with fiberglassing Aaron? I'd love to learn how to do that myself one of these days if you feel like sharing your knowledge?
greg