bramagedained
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Posts posted by bramagedained
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Their website is down so I cannot find the specific part number.
But, the "Hardened Hub" disks look like this, each friction has it's own splined hub:
The "Gear Drive" disks look like this, where there is one larger hub and the 2nd friction rides on that:
I had the 6 leg 7.25" V-Drive clutch in the Evo I had for ~40k miles. I went through a set of hardened hub discs every 8-10k or so, while the gear drive lasted a bit longer. That car made 897hp/715tq to the tires and the clutch held fine.
There is certainly a learning curve to that clutch and the hydraulic TOB, especially with the race compound friction discs.
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FWIW, the "Gear Drive" disks for the QM clutches are definitely worth the extra cost over the hardened hub version if they exist for that application. Quieter, longer life, and less input shaft wear.
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I also have a pair of the 7" VisionX lights. I already like them, and I know a lot of people that with their offroad lights that get beat pretty hard and they hold up.
They fit just like the sealed beams did without modifying anything.
The High beam pattern is like an offroad spot light, while the Low is like a good HID with a sharp cutoff. This means they can be adjusted properly without blinding oncoming traffic.
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Someone caught video as you were leaving that was posted in the C&C facebook group, too.
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It's going to end up with how much HP are you willing to trade off for being quiet.
When I decided on the layout for my car, after digging it seemed that glass-pack type mufflers were the best balance of performance vs sound reduction.
I read through a bunch of Vizard and other's stuff. Actual testing across manufacturers on the same setup is shockingly difficult to find. Half the articles about mufflers cite professionals from one company or another who always insist their own design is best.
I did find this post when I was looking: http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/tech-section/3202-some-muffler-test-info
I ended up with a pair of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-633222 tucked up next to each other where the stock muffler should be. I don't think what I did will fit with the stock bumper shocks.
I have this video, but, I have no idea how much normalization my phone does by default for sound being recorded. It is noticeably quieter when the car is actually on the ground. And probably because you're then much higher than the exhaust compared to where my phone recorded this from.
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Yeah, it's not supposed to do that. I found a setting that should not have been on and turned it off. Might take a little while to take effect.
True.
Thank you. Even if you don't click on the links it still helps. It's the number of impressions per day that matters.Since people have started using ad block our number of impressions has fallen over 50% and revenue per click is down to about %20 of what it was years ago.This has been an issue for EVERY website owner with google ads.Just an FYI, I will be upgrading the forum software early next year and it will require that you turn off adblock to access it.The issue is that as a whole, 3rd party ads have proven to be untrustworthy, serve malware, hijack links, etc. So the safe option is to block everything, everywhere.
This issue is just another example.
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Oh, I'm stealing that idea of welding the rods to the pins in the pistons and using them to support the glass like that.
I think I have an Evo trans input and output shaft, some gears, a clutch/flywheel, SBC camshaft, 4G63 crank/rods/pistons, bent stock Evo aluminum wheel. Probably a SBC timing set, too.
After this winter I'll probably have the ring/pinion out of the 8.8 and the stock traclok as junk parts, too.
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I wish I could find a shortblock for that around here. Since I'm going to end up doing it in stages I'd like to find a LQ9 shortblock so I can throw some L92 heads on it for the higher comp(vs a LQ4) for the year or so I'll have to drive it around N/A. The L92 heads just seem to be so much better than the cathedral ports that come on the LQ4/9.
Then either throw just a little boost at the higher compression LQ9 short block, or, first make it a 408 then throw boost at it later.
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You say "300" block...do you mean $300 block? I'm looking to build a turbo motor (preferably a 4.8) for ONE landspeed race, assuming the car goes 200mph on the first outing, which is a big assumption. A minimum power goal is 600hp, but it could take as much as 800hp, depending on who you believe. I'm hoping to show up to the standing mile track with tunes for 600, 700, and 800 hp boost levels and the ability to start small and "turn it up!" as needed. Mathematical modeling says 600hp is all I need, but I am suspicious that I will, in fact, need more. Some form of traction control will be part of the plan. Can you describe the modifications you did to the "junkyard" motor to prep it for your turbo kit? I find some of these "junkyard" claims to be hard to believe-help make me a believer!?
I dunno how it's hard to believe, there's thousands of threads across basically every possible chassis platform of it. LS1tech has everything you would need to know.
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Looks like that fits good, how tall is the cowl?
How much does it weight vs the stock steel one?
The last C&C for the year is this Saturday, the 8th.
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Do you think the header just cooked it?
I can't remember what your headers looked like near the starter.
I kind of want a cowl hood as well, but, have the same fears as you for buying a used one.
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A supercharger is definitely more linear than a turbo.
Too bad you didn't make it to that hillclimb, it was good fun.
There was a guy there with an orange 5.3 swapped car that I don't know-who did better than I did.
I'm still waiting for the e-mail with everyone's results. I think I made top 10, beating one of the pro-touring built cars. My fastest time of the day included a 2 second penalty, too.
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FWIW, Will's kit has gone in 240/260/280s so they must all be very close, at least between the mustache bar mounts and the welded nuts for the front mount.
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Do you mean timing is set to when the motor is at top dead center? If so, that is way too retarded.
Depending on what is done to the SBC, initial timing should be 8 to 20 degrees before top dead center.
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PM sent.
It funny after putting in all the time last winter, but at you understand when the weather is nice, the to do list gets put off to the side.
Definitely. Just today I was under my car just to check fasteners and inspect stuff. Also tried to bandaid the exhaust leak with some copper RTV until winter comes-we'll see how that does tomorrow.
I forwarded the email, while doing so realized I could have just pulled yours up from PayPal.
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There's not really a good way to watch. I'll most likely be there to run, though.
PM me your e-mail and I'll forward you the one that Tom sent out about the event.
I can't find the time to seal my quarterpanels up yet. Yes they are still open :/ I get that tire rub on really hard bump or dips in the road.I'm surprised you've not taken care of that yet. Then again, I've still not bought the welting for the flares.
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I don't think I will have time to prepare for the hill climb in Waumandee, WI this year. It looks like a hellufa time.
I mean, if it makes the drive there, it's prep'd enough for the event. It's not at all a serious thing. Actually, if you hit a cone or a hay bale setup for chicanes you're done for the weekend.
One guy did it in a 50's Dodge PowerWagon last year.
I'm still not actually sure if I'll be there or not. I know there are still spots open, but, the return road has like 800' of gravel due to temporary repairs from flooding and the paddock is somewhere besides the pizza farm as there is a wedding there that day. With the wedding, I dunno what there is for places to stay nearby either.
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Ahh. I was trying to remember what it was from the one picture I saw of just the front half of the car.
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Funny seeing you today on the road a block from my house.
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Will just sort of disappeared. About the time of making the last kit(mine, AFAIK) he pulled the motor from the Datsun and threw it in a Volvo.
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This is from my early 260z so YMMV.
Datsun colors are the color at the plugs/switches.
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Getting spotted is funny. I took 61 down to Wabasha then 60 across to 52 and home, it was a nice 4 hour cruise. Mostly trouble free aside from the header bolts getting loose enough to leak on the driver's side. I had never checked them after putting the headers on.
Maybe the pump is just bad. I know a lot of people who have used the actual 044s for years without problems.
I doubt you move enough fuel with it to have it heat up the fuel significantly. My last car had a really big pump(Magnafuel 4303) and two walbro 255s and never had an issue with that.
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Heh, I was going to go out and see how my car did in the heat here on Friday, too.
But, after just a short drive to Cub in it I decided that if it's that hot outside I'll just be driving the other car with A/C anyway.
Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0
in Drivetrain
Posted
FWIW, under it's own weight and with the mustache bar from Wfritts kit, my 8.8 really doesn't move just supported by the two rear bolts.
I don't think it would be a big deal if you had the above linked setup and dropped it to remove the control arms. You could always just quick re-install it after dropping them.