bramagedained
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Posts posted by bramagedained
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Step by step on the axle thing.
Some of the pictures are of the wrong axles from my previous post. The steps are the same either way.
First thing's first.
Get the correct axles. Either from Ford or Ford Remans. Cardone(online places+amazon) and MasterPro(O'Reilly brand) are both re-mans done by Kragen and are correct.
Masterpro(O'Reilly) part number: 60-2112
CARDONE SELECT part number: 662112
There should be a Ford logo stamped into the CV housing.
Looking closely at my pictures, I now realize that I could see splines on the shaft of the incorrect axles and could have compared them to the 930 axles and it would have been obvious something was awry.
F150 axles, these need to be cut apart to disassemble the outer CV, which is used along with the new 930 axle shaft and a 930CV as the inner joint.
The shaft needs to be cut off so you can spin the star far enough for the ball bearings to come out so that you can take it apart:This is the wrong axle, on the correct re-man'd Ford pieces you cannot see any of the splines where the shaft goes into the star of the CV.
Good thing a pipe vise is in the garage, it made this part fairly easy, I spun the axle around the other way before I actually cut it, this just made for a better picture:Done with a cutoff wheel, care taken to not ding the CV joint itself:
Outer CV cut free from the rest of it:
Now you can spin the star far enough to get the balls out, which means you can get the whole thing apart:(Yes, beer belly used to hold it up for the picture, this is before I realized the hubs make a good stand while working on this step.)
Star and balls:
CV Joint separated and cleaned, shaft still needs to be pressed out of the star this is now a picture of the correct axles:This is the spring clip that needs to be pressed into the shaft to get the shaft out of the star. As mentioned by Will earlier it's much easier with two people, one to run the screwdrivers and another to give it a whack. With a ball-peen and bronze drift it popped right apart.
Outer stub fits into the Dodge Intrepid hub like it should:The hub actually makes a really handy stand to put the whole assembly into while you're rolling the star/cage around to remove the ball bearings.
That leaves you here, with all the parts ready to assemble:
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Well. I learned a lesson that not all CVs are the same.
I spent the day tearing them both down and on assembly(both CVs themselves greased and back together) find that the stars/axles on the pair that I bought have different splines than the 930 shafts/CVs.
They are for an F150 in the correct year range.
The CARDONE SELECT 662112(which I'm assuming are what others bought) are re-man'd FoMoCo ones.
The SURTRACK FD8023 ones I ended up with obviously are not.
Both are on the same RockAuto page when you search the 3L3Z3B436AA number in the pdf from Will.
They do still fit into the intrepid hubs. Without taking them apart(at least peeling the boot back) there's no way to tell that there is a difference.
Getting the axles that looked like they were $13 cheaper, cost me a whole day and the $100 for the ones I've now cut apart.
I also noticed while cleaning up the 8.8 I bought from a junkyard that one of the rubber washer deals is missing from the mount near the pinion.
The axles in question:
Apart:
Still fits in the hub:
But, clearly won't work with the 930 axles:
At least having a pipe vise made cutting the axles easy:
I didn't see a reason to take the inboard side apart, I only pulled the boot to see if it would have been worth the trouble.
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I just searched on the mentioned car-part and one of the local used parts places had one with a 3.73 and LSD from an 03 explorer, paid $300.
I'm just waiting for the pair of gland nuts from Koni and I have all the parts, my school semester ends on the 18th(giving me the 19th->05JAN without class to get it done) and I plan on starting the swap the next day.
I plan on fully documenting every step of the swap with pictures.
The tag on the diff should have an "L" to denote it's a track-lock LSD.
Copying a post by SunnyZ:
The 8.8 IRS was offered in the following vehicles
99/01/03/04 Cobra
1989-1997 Thunderbird Supercoupe (All Posi-traction)
1992-1997 Thunderbird V-8 models with rear disc brakes(some posi-traction)3.08, 3.27
1992-1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (All aluminum carrier, most non-posi-traction) 3.07, 3.08, 3.27, 3.55, 3.73
1989-1992 Mercury Cougar XR-7, supercharged V-6 (All posi-traction)
1993-1997 Mercury Cougar V-8
02+ Explorer/Mountaineer = 3.55 and 3.73 open, 3.73 LSD , 31 spline
To determine the gear ratio, and whether or not the unit has posi-traction, look at the tag that is attached to one of the differential cover bolts. The first 4 spaces signify the gear ratio and whether or not it has posi-traction. If the unit has posi-traction, then the second space will have an L in it representing (limited slip), the remaining spaces specify the gear ratio. For example, 2 L 7 3 means posi-traction with a 2.73:1 gear ratio. Most people pay a salvage yard between $300-$400 for the donor parts. Also, Ford Motorsports sells a 15lb. lighter aluminum carrier with gears and posi-traction for around $650.I can't comment on if any mount different on the rear cover, or which have 2 mounts on the snout vs the single that the explorer/mountaineer diffs use and that the kit is designed around.
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I didn't realize that much head room was possible in a Z...
hah. I never noticed that.
I think I would have to cut a hole in the floor and set the seat on the ground to have headroom like that.
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Odd. Maybe I'm just retarded.
I kept coming up with dead "No longer available" listings.
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I finally got around to ordering the off the shelf parts today. It seems QA1 quit making the 2.5"x10" spring with the 300lb/in rate, in a powder coated version.
The spring is no longer available as an option on QA1's site powder coated silver, either.
Summit/Jegs does have the chrome version.
Part number is: 10CS300
The part number from the pdf that is no longer available:10-300
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I will this winter. I bought the car already SBC/TH350 swapped. I picked up the 8.8 swap kit so I'm doing that, brakes, suspension, wheels, tires, and if I have time/money leftover a NA LS for now.
Next winter the plan is turbo and a TH400.
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hey i never met another person trying to do this swap. Thats awesome!! The mounts r pretty simple. you do need a welder tho lol. One thing i was researching about is trying to use a sr20det mount from www.mckinneymotorsports.com but i doubt it would work. So where in SD do u live?
I considered it for awhile before I decided on going LS. I had Buschur's 2.3RPM with matching head, etc from my Evo when I parted it out. I just wanted to do the cheap and easy way to make power after that car.
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Got my kit last night. Unbelievable. These parts are too nice for my car.
Everything arrived in beautiful condition. I have never seen so much bubble wrap in my life.
I know it takes a lot of time to do something like this and I hope you are rewarded for all your hard work.
Thanks again.
-Mark
I actually kind of chuckled about that. Here was a box of powdercoated steel that came packaged better than my last order of computer parts from NewEgg.
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I got my parts from Will today.
For anyone that has already been running this, do you think it is worth putting a zerk where the bolt/spindle pin is?
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I felt better about my planned winter projects before reading that you did the math and it's ~30 weekends.
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I bought my car the way it is in June of this year. The guy I bought it from had also purchased the car in it's swapped state and unfortunately, he didn't know much about it either.
I found a receipt in the document protector with the original window sticker that leads me to believe that the swap on my car was done in 1989/1990.
The receipt is for trans and engine stuff dated 04/1990 in New York state, which I would assume means it was someone's winter project for that year. Quick googling pulls up that the JTR book was first copyrighted in 1990.
The SBC(which I assume is a 350) I'm pulling this winter for a 4.8L truck motor that I will eventually turbo.
Amusingly, the current motor has an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake which was only made in the 70's and ram-horn style cast exhaust manifolds.
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I wonder what difference just having a turndown would make, so your exhaust wasn't pointed at the Db meter as you went past.
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Bucket list trip. Let me get my last one into college next year and maybe we could do something in the spring of 2016 or 2017. My car may be getting a cage in the spring of '16 and out of commission. Would want to have our own little ZCON with a road course (Motorsport Ranch) and or a drag night.
Can I vote? I'll be done with school spring 17 and I should have the turbo 4.8 by then. I'll be swapping in a NA 4.8 this winter along with the 8.8 IRS setup, then turboing it next year.
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That's exactly why my car will get a 4.8/5.3 to make power. I did the hard/expensive way on my last car and vowed to never do it again.
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@rebekahsz
Which flares from which vendor do you use and what is the offset of your drag wheels?
I know I'm going to need flares, I'm just not 100% on which ones. I'll be going with wfritts911's IRS rear setup.
I was looking at maybe a 17x9.5 -20 for the rear with a 275/40 and 17x8.5 -10 front with a 245/45.
Mostly those wheel sizes because the Rota RKR come in 4x114.3 and 5x114.3.
My napkin math makes it look like the wheels will clear the suspension, and the extra width dealt with by flares. The rears would stick out ~2.5" over the stock wheels/tires I have now.
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Andy's car is legit. There's a few nifty things done to his car.
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I need to go snap a picture of it sitting in the street. I didnt think to take any pictures while I was re-assembling stuff.
Shocks came at about noon and I started working at 1pm or so.
I just got back from a test drive and cleaned up the garage.
Man, do new shocks completely change the feel of the car. I also added progressive bumpstops for the front that it never had before.
Front brake circuit was flushed and is now new fluid, I'll get to the rears. Car has 2 separate reservoirs.
The ratio box also came so now it has an accurate speedometer. -
Got the other side apart this morning. That last bolt did take a little heat and using my torque wrench for leverage. It was set for 100 ft-lbs and never clicked before the bolt broke free.
The cordless impact I have is pretty wimpy, especially as the battery drains.
Progress stopped until the shocks arrive. I did crack open the bleeders on both calipers to make sure they would come free for when I flush/bleed the system as it goes back together.
Both sides look like this:
and a side by side:
My 2-month to-do list is coming along nicely. -
The little QM clutches take some getting used to.
My Evo had one of their 7.25" twin disks in it. From driving that all the time it makes me look like a fool when I drive something with a "normal" clutch in it.
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I didn't take a picture, but, the new speedo/tach are mounted.
I had to order a ratio adapter to correct the speedo as the trans is already geared as far towards correcting as possible. It should be here Monday/Tuesday.
In hind sight(and what I'd recommend everyone else does) is buy the Speedometer Sender/VSS that Autometer makes which connects right to the tailshaft along with the electronic speedometer.
I couldn't wait any longer on the front shocks as the driver's side was completely gone.
One of these things is not like the other:
The blue one is what I took out, and, it's totally blown. Where it slides into the strut tube was full of the oil that is supposed to be inside the shock.
...the KYB is also a rear. Someone fucked up and sent me the wrong set. I opted for free overnight shipping on a front set. I'll need the rears this winter anyway.
Fronts not expected to show up until Monday, since I was too late on the call for today.
Originally I was going to order a wheel bearing kit and just replace what was there.
When I got things apart I'm glad I didn't, the side I have apart was in great shape with no wear visible of any kind. I cleaned out the bearings and re-packed.
Bearings:
Spindle:
I don't know if these were replaced at some point or not. There is still the tooling marks on the spindle from when it was made, as it is not smooth.
Outer Races:
Nearly everything came apart nicely. One of the two bolts that holds the steering arm to the whole assembly will not budge. I am only using a cordless impact that maxes at <100ft-lbs of force. Leaving it to sit with some penetrating oil overnight. If that fails it will get a little heat. The brake line fittings took a little coaxing with the proper kind of wrench, but, came loose without too much effort. Pads/rotors are in good shape. -
Got back home from Road America at 5:30 or so.
The Hawk vintage race is something everyone needs to go to, seriously. It was cool as ****, and hands down the coolest racing event I've ever been to. So much stuff, from 1930's race cars to a 2014 prototype. 70's Can-Am/Formula 1, muscle cars, 90's Formula 1 and IndyCars, etc. Multiple classes were 50 deep, and I got to have some very interesting chats with a couple different guys who were racing S30s there, mostly about chassis stiffening.
Had the box from summit with the gauges and another from vatozone with new gas shocks for the front end as one is leaking oil(and probably original like everything else.)
I got right to work tonight on the new gauges.
Just sitting in place.
I did get the wiring for the tach and all the lights done, which was actually much simpler than expected.
Factory was 2 bulbs per light, and individually wired, so, I just removed those and added the bulbs/pigtails for the autometer ones.
Same with the switched IGN ON power for the tach.
I still need to make a mounting bracket and run the new speedo cable, which I'll start in the morning.I'm trying to decide how I want to deal with the parking brake/highbeam/turn signal bulbs.
I'm waiting on replacing the shocks until I can get a new set of wheel bearings. It doesn't feel like it needs them, but, if I'm taking the front end apart anyway, I may as while do it while I'm there.
I very nearly just ordered coilovers for the front, but, I don't actually want to lower it any, which nearly all of the pre-fabbed ones seem to do. -
Under the car for a bit yesterday.
None of the U-joints had noticeable play.
Hit all the zerk fittings, which didn't take much grease. None of the suspension parts had any unexpected play in them.
I decided on the black faced Autometer Pro Comp Speedo+Tach which should be here in the next couple of days, along with a speedo cable. I totally forgot to check what gears were in the TH350 to see about changing them to make the new speedo correct.
The 2 gauges will be the first actual modification I'll have done.
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I recently bought a really nice 260z, that already has a SBC and automatic. Swap was done sometime in the 90's and apparently saw nearly no miles after it was done. Not enough miles for either of the 2 previous owners to be bothered to get the right combo of drive gears to correct the speedo, for example. When I bought it, the tires were from 1992.
Disclaimer fullsize picture is quite large.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/ic8Bx#tokFrVf
The car is really in amazing shape. There's one small spot underneath starting to rust. The hatch, battery tray, tool/spare wells, fenders, hood, are all pristine. It still has what I can only assume is the OEM spare with a date code of 473 which I assume corresponds to 47th week of 73. It also came with the OEM manual, window sticker, radio guide, tool kit, jack and wheel chocks. The electric rear defrost, map light, and motor to raise/lower the antenna work. The light under the hood still works, too. Brake pads/shoes were replaced last year.
I actually saw it posted via reddit from craigslist. Car was near Richmond, VA and I have a buddy from the Army that lives in DC so he checked it out for me. I bought a ticket from Minnesota to DC, cash in hand, without ever seeing the car in person myself and planned on driving it home, which I did.
Eventually, it needs to be as fast/faster than my last car, which was a 900whp Evo IX. But, at the same time, needs to hide what it is as much as possible.
How it sits now:
350 from 1979.
-Originally 170hp.
-It has a cam(unknown).
-Holley 600, Accel HEI
-Edelbrock Streetmaster intake(apparently these were a 70's thing).
-Holley fuel pump.
-Electric fans on a thermostat. Super awesome, I got stuck in traffic when it was ~90° and it didn't get hot.
TH350 I assume from 1979 with the motor.
-Feels like there's a shift kit.
Issues as it sits:
-Couple of oil leaks to chase down. It appears to be timing cover and oil pan gaskets. Not major, but, it bothers me that it leaks at all.
-Speedo quit working in Iowa, it was ~10% off anyway.
-In dash tach doesn't work, an old Sun SuperTach is mounted on the dash.
-Mystery clunk from the rear, doesn't feel like any of the U-Joints.
-Outer bolster on the driver's seat has wear, not quite to the point of tearing, but, it's fairly close.(Yes, this level of nit-picky of things not 100% right with the car)
-Turn signal doesn't reliably auto cancel. I'm not sure if it's worth taking things apart(with the risk of damaging something else in the process) to try and get that working correctly, I've already developed the habit of turning them off manually. I have a background in electronics, my concern is over the parts I'd have to remove to get to the switch itself.
-Rheostat for the dimmer died. It worked until I started playing with it.
Things found wrong on the way home:
-The fuel pump had a bad gasket internally, and the era of holley pump that was on it came with weep holes for oil when that gasket failed. So, $100 for a fuel pump from O'Riellys and I was good to go.
-The other leak was the valve cover gaskets, another $22 from Autozone.
-Ate the v-belt, luckily right before an exit on the interstate with services. I think it was $13 from an actual service station, which was about a mile walk into town from the gas station at the interchange.
Things already done:
-New fuel pump. $100
-New valve cover gaskets. $22
-New Tires. $250(lol)
-New V-belt. $13
-Oil change. $? I had the oil at home, didn't pay attention to what the filter cost.
Things coming soon™ in the next couple of months:
-Autometer speedo and tach. I'm sort of torn between the at-a-glance of the Phantom Series(which will stand out in the dash with the white face) and the Pro-Comp ones which have a black face.-Do something about the lighting of the OEM oil/temp/amp gauges to make it a bit brighter and more even.-Fix remaining oil leaks.
-Get it dyno'd to have the timing/carb jetting checked out.
-Make sure the clunk isn't a u-joint, the whole rear end will be changed out this winter anyway if it's a bushing.-Address the one rust spot. Sort of addressed. Rust cleaned up and painted until I can have it apart for a patch.
-Check out the rheostat for dimmer. Either see if it can be repaired, rig something up with a pot, or, use a variable resistor to get to a light level I like and leave it alone.Everything on full-bright is finePlanned changes for this coming winter(2015-16):
-New rear suspension/diff/brakes. The "ultimate" one on here with the 8.8 and such that bolts in place seems really attractive.
-New front suspension/brakes.
-Poly bushings for whatever is left.
-Wheels/tires.
-Flares? I've actually had quite a few people tell me(on here and in person) that the car is just too nice as it is to cut the fenders for flares.
Plans for next winter(2016-2017):
-Turbo 5.3 It's so widely done, I can gather parts over the summer so there's not such a big hit all at once for cost.
-Built TH400
-Cage? Probably worse than people telling me it's too nice to cut the fenders for flares. I don't like the idea of a cage in a street car, but, something would need to be done to keep the chassis straight with the power and a sticky tire. At least I've decided against having it back-halved for a 4-link, right?
-NHRA safety stuff. If I'm honest, the car will probably rarely see a track, but, get used quite a lot.
My last fun car was a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, the project got out of hand and it ended up being a ~900whp/700wtq car. I spent way too much money and in the end it would just eat gears in the transmission.
That project thread: http://www.evomn.net/showthread.php?5900-The-source-of-my-fun-and-frustration
I kept it very subtle looking, and with the relatively small cams it didn't lope at idle. The drag radials were on stock wheels.
The "Ultimate" IRS Swap for S30s
in Drivetrain
Posted · Edited by bramagedained
Posting to keep them in line.
I assembled the axles today, for the most part it was so simple forgot about steps and only took 3 pictures.
I'll upload the pictures later tonight.
As a note, I had to chase the threads of 3 holes in the diff side flanges as they had paint/powdercoat in them and the bolts would not go in.
I already had the CV greased and sitting on it when I found the first one, for the other two in the second axle I tested all the holes first and found 2 more that needed to be cleaned up.
On another minor note, despite my F150 axles both being from the same place I noticed today that the cage for one of them was just slightly different. The windows in the side that the ball rests in were just a slightly different shape than the other 3 axles I've had apart.
Notice that this cage is more "D" shaped. The other 3 axles were all more of a rectangle:
I'm pulling my car apart tomorrow and hopefully getting most of it re-assembled.
Once everything was back together and loaded with grease I used the 930 shaft to work the joint around. I figured it's better this way to make sure the grease got everywhere vs it happening while it's under load:
I forgot to take pictures of assembling the 930 CVs to the inner stub. It's really simple. I did it slightly different tha Mikelly in that I had it bolted together before putting the boots on, so that there was less chance of cross-threading.
Pair of assembled Axles:
I just used zip-ties for the outer boots.