bramagedained
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Posts posted by bramagedained
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The second side came apart just as easy as the first.
Some comparisons.
Stock caliper vs the Toyota ones:
Second side complete:
On the ground. I think it will probably sit about where it is for final ride height. I can always drop it down for the "MOAR LOW" look if I for some reason feel the need to wear a flat bill and try to look cool.
This leaves me with about 2"? of up travel before hitting the bump stop. The T3 kit did not come with bump stops, so I re-used the ones I had bought(Energy Poly ones) for the fronts when I did the KYB shocks in July. I live in MN and the roads potholes are fierce. I'd much rather have it higher with a bump stop than it be low with the chance of bottoming hard. It will probably be my DD again once summer comes and I don't want to have to dodge things or work my way over speed bumps or in and out of parking lots/driveways either. -
Yeah, the stock ones hammered out without having to hit them very hard.
The new ones I hammered in, with a bronze drift. I'm guessing the re-install went easy because they had been in the freezer and the hub was warm.
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The last of my suspension stuff came today.
I'll probably by the proper hardware that has a shoulder instead of being threaded the entire way before spring actually gets here.
The T3 setup uses the same Koni damper that I have in the rear.
Now there is a 225lb/in spring in front and 250lb/in spring in the rear. They're generically a 2.5"x10" coil front and rear which makes for a lot of options should I feel the need to change rates.
Stock arm vs new:
As part of changing the front, the wheel studs also needed to be changed. I was someone worried about this since the current studs have been in there since the factory, nearly 42 years ago.
To my surprise they came out quite easily.
I already had new ARP ones, which are much longer and also M12x1.5 to match the rear. OEM was M12x1.25.
I had the new studs in the freezer, with the hope it would make install easier. I don't know if it made a difference, but, it was pretty easy going.
Now that I have all the parts I can also throw in the brake swap that I've had sitting around for a couple of months now.
This involved separating the disk from the hub, there are 4 bolts and it's sort of press fit on. This also came apart without drama, I expected things to be corroded together because well, it's brakes.
Im not super into the drilled/slotted thing, but, that's how it comes from the Silvermine Motors kit. With the provided spacers to space the rotor away from the hub everything lined up perfectly.
I finished one side of the car. I could have worked on it solid and probably finished the second side today too, but, there's no hurry.
vs old:
I did have to clearance the dust shield or whatever it's called so the bigger caliper would fit, the backing plate of the inner pad also needed to be clearances slightly. The inner part towards the mounting point for the caliper would touch. -
My stuff from Japan showed up, and just had to quick throw two of the fender flares on with tape.
I'm quite impressed with the fit/finish of the pieces. The flares are made to very closely follow the body lines of the car. Nearly all of the ones available in the US are much more generic.
There are no voids in the fiberglass on any of the pieces and everything is sanded smooth with not a rough edge to be found.
My front suspension stuff will be here next week. Once I throw that in I can play with getting the car to sit where I want and then put on the flares.
I don't know how much that will actually matter in the end, as there is certainly a sweet spot where the flares follow the contours of the car just right.Since I'm sticking with the SBC step 1 is rebuild the Holley, I've had the kit since I had to pull the secondary bowl when the float got stuck.
I will convert it to a 4150 so there's actually jets for the secondary, but, I won't do that until after the motor is back together. I want as few new variables as possible for that initial start up.
It's a generic 600CFM vacuum secondary, which should continue to be fine for my setup.
I found this right away, and I'm pretty sure I didn't do it taking it off the motor.
That rubber cap is under the bowl so I never noticed it even existed. The cap was brittle and falling apart.
The diaphragm for the secondaries was also bad.Now it's all back together with new gaskets, needles/seats, and clean. There was some vanish from the car sitting in the past.
I went for the secondary housing top that lets you change the springs easily, to make tuning that simpler/quicker in the future. Right now it has the natural-finish spring.
I didn't take a picture, but, I pulled one of the heads off of the motor to get a look at the pistons/walls. They look to be in good shape, still a faint crosshatch and no carbon ring at the top of the bores.
It does have flat-top pistons, since the shortblock is from 1979 apparently there was some risk of it having dished pistons for mega-low compression.
I'm pretty set on the setup I'm going to use which will bump it to about 10:1CR with the felpro .016 shim head gaskets.
The only real hold up is figuring out what headers to use.
My plan will probably take me semi close to the edge of it being happy on the street, but, what I'm willing to put up with in a street car is probably different than most.
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Yeah, March 5th-13th.
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Wiring is 99% finished. Neutral safety and reverse lights still aren't hooked up due to being part of the shifter swap. However, everything else is done(wipers/heater/etc) and the wiring is bundled and tucked away.
I had ordered the T3 rear adjustable control arms and they showed up this week so I threw those in, so I can adjust toe. Again everything came right apart on the car, including the bolts that hold the stock bushings to the stock arms which as far as I know have never been removed since the car was built. The stock bushings pulled right off the stock arms too.
The whole thing went so fast I forgot to take any pictures. I just eyeballed the adjustments for now. Once It's driving I'll take it to a shop that a friend of mine owns and set it up properly.
I'm still waiting on to arrive:
T3 front coilovers/arms/TC rods.
Maruguen Shoukai ZG flares and Wing
Once the T3 front parts come, I have a bit of a project. When those come, I need to change out the wheel studs, rotors, and calipers. After that I can swap the master cylinder and mount/plumb the proportioning valve.
I've decided against the 4.8 swap this winter. I could make it work, but, it would limit my budget for events this summer. Instead, I'm going to spend a little on the SBC and call it good.
I still need to pick a new fuel cell and buy the lines. I'm going to rip out all of the factory lines that are not being used.
Which leaves me with this todo list:
- Install front suspension parts
- -Change front wheel studs
- -Change front brakes
- Install Wilwood MC
- Install Wilwood Prop valve
- Pull the motor/trans
- While the motor is out
- -Strip factory fuel lines and a/c hard line
- -Strip factory clutch line
- -Replace gaskets
- -Change cam/intake and possibly heads
- -Rebuild the Holley, I have the re-build kit.
- -Look into heads/cam/intake/converter
- Swap shifters
- -Wire in neutral safety
- -Wire in reverse lights
- Buy and install fuel cell
- -Also need to buy a filter and run the line.
- Re-install motor/trans
- -Have a new driveshaft made.
- -Buy mufflers and fab exhaust
- Install Flares
- Install Wing
- Order fiberglass replica 240z bumpers
- Take the car to RSMotors and setup the suspension.
I have ~10 weekends and 9 full days of spring break to get this done.
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When is the next time that you'll be able to cross some more items off your list? I would feel pretty terrible if you beat me to the flares but hell if I get there, anything I run in to I won't hesistate to let you know. I have no problem helping but I have some gauges that need to be mounted and wired now
I've actually been behind in updating my thread here. I've crossed a few more things off.
Though, I made the decision to abandon the 4.8 swap this winter. I'd rather put a little money into the SBC and spend the rest of the budget on events this summer instead.
The flares will be done during my spring break which is the 5th-13th.
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I'm using the same tires. 245 front on 9" wheel, 275 rear on 9.5" wheel. I have the rear tire mocked up with 5.25" backspace (which works out to -2mm which seems weird) and I like the look. I'm trying to keep the rubber inside the flares. Clearance on the inside is better than it appears in the photos.
I was going to go with -13 in the front but that may change. What are you guys doing for wheels? I'm using an American Racing custom built. These are also Marugen flares from RHDJapan.
For curiosity sake, can you eyeball a measurement from the factory fender to the shoulder of the tires in the rear, at the middle of the arch?
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Continental Extreme Contact DW. It will be my DD in the summer so tires that don't suck in the rain made more sense than the extreme-performance group of tires.
I didn't mention, but, I ended up with 17x8.5 -10 in the front and 255/40 tires.
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I have 17x9.5 -20 RKR with 275-40 tires and my Marugen flares should get here from Japan in the next couple of weeks.
If you're not in a hurry I'll have a writeup of that as I'm doing in my project thread.
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Nice! Is that a big flame in the engine compartment at :23?
It looked like it, on the header wrap.
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Heh, my flares aren't projected to be here until the 15th.
If I try and throw a 4.8 in this winter I'll pay in beer if you come help me with that, lol.
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Alumalite sheet seems to work well. I know Andy's put up with mowing the grass/shoveling dirt a few times.
http://blog.365racing.net/2012/04/02/evo-front-splitter-part2/
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I had it started and running today, everything checks out.
The now minor to-do list for this leg of the project:
- Mount the terminal blocks and fuse/relay panel
- Connect hazard switch-Every thing is there, I just ran out of solder/connectors.
- Wire in neutral safety and reverse lights-This involves installing the ratchet shifter which is a project on it's own.
- Deal with the wipers-I've still not really looked into this.
I'm not sure what I'll tackle next. I'm really tempted to either convert the front or just buy the T3 setup. I need to change the studs in front and install the brakes, master cylinder, and proportioning valve that I already have.
I have no idea when the flares and spoiler from RHDJapan will show up. I'm just hoping it's before spring break when I'll have a solid week to get things done. It's also then that I'll have to decide on trying for the LS swap this winter or just pulling the SBC to replace gaskets.
I'm still planning on making a detailed write up for the painless thing so it's all in one post in the sticky to make it work.
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Text only updates are lame.
I have a ton of hours into this wiring project.
Today I have nearly everything finished. I need to get a couple of connectors and hook up the engine stuff, which is all of 7 wires including the senders for gauges and the starter/alternator.
The lights all work, including my indicators on the dash. The high and low beams are noticeably brighter now that they run through a relay instead of the full current through the headlight switch itself. -Even running off of the battery that is just sort of rigged up.
It's satisfying to hear the relays trigger that I added when turning on the headlights, running lights, or clicking the key to start.
I've not yet tied in the reverse light or neutral safety switches as they are part of the new shifter which will be a project all on it's own. I left provisions in the wiring to make this easy.
The same goes for the hazard switch, which is also a simple tie in. The leads are there, just not hooked to anything right now.
The fuse/relay panel. Not yet attached, but, exactly where it will sit on the firewall in the passenger footwell in the space that the old A/C coil used to occupy.
It's not totally as clean as I wanted, but, the work involved to make all the runs exactly the same length just so the bend is the same for all of them simply isn't worth the time. I took those yesterday before I had everything connected.
This is how the wiring mess started, I hooked everything up with wire nuts and applied power to check everything out first. This was done without the relays.
I'm quite fond of the new look from behind with the new tires.
However, I 100% need to change out the studs in front, which I planned on doing anyway. Stock is M12x1.25, the rear is M12x1.5 which is much more common. When I pull the hubs again to swap the front rotors I'll take care of that, too.
The threads are only about half way into the generic short nuts I grabbed from the auto parts store.
Hopefully it's up and running tomorrow, which will be fun with no exhaust.
Oh, I still need to figure out the wiper thing. I have which lead does what from the switch figured out, but, that's as far as I got on that. -
On mine anyway, I'm definitely changing the wheel studs up front. With the RKRs I don't like how little thread engagement there is(it's actually probably fine). But, it would also be easier to get lug nuts started with a longer stud.
I got mine from 18racing who is mostly an ebay seller. I had them in about a week and they were willing to sell me a mixed set because of my two different bolt patterns.
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I still plan on making more kits. Hopefully pretty soon, been crazy busy as usual, 95 hour week last week. Bramagedained, huge props to you for the pictures and how to! Sorry for the issues with the spare tire well, my cars was cut out already when I got it, so I never realized it was so close.JustAFantaZ, I sent a PM back to you, you can convert to cobra brakes by cutting off the mounting ears for the caliper on your current upright, and just bolting on the cobra caliper bracket. It bolts on with the same bolts as the hub, so all you have to do is lose the wilwood caliper mounts.
Thanks for all the support guys, I will keep you guys posted when I get ready to make more kits.
Thanks,
-Will
It's all good. It was always the plan to eventually cut it out anyway. Because of some other stuff that's happening this winter anyway.
Put me down for a kit also Will. I think you can sell more than a few kits so a second run NEEDS to happen!
PM'd you a few minutes ago without reading through to end of thread cause this looks like a great kit.
Can anyone with first production run kit chime in on their installation and subsequent performance. I plan on HPDE and road course TTs so will be driving the car hard. Excited about not having concern as to whether the rear can handle LS3 power and torque.
Joseph
I should be to a few AutoX/HPDE and possibly a TT event this summer. Which may or may not be a useful timeframe for feedback depending on when Will makes more.
The car will also be my DD in the summer.
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It should sit pretty nice with adjustable arms, flares and an alignment.
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I now have 6 pages of notes on which wires connect to which Datsun thing. Once everything is finalized and working, I'll make a thread about that as currently the painless wiring swap info is spread across a few different threads. I'm adding relays for the headlights/running lights/starter which are not part of the kit as well.
It was cheap enough that I ordered a 2W 10K Ohm pot from amazon which is shipping along with a distribution block that I'm going to use to split off the ground/power for all the gauges. They should both be here tomorrow.
My goal is to have the car wired to the point that I can start it and check light functions by Sunday night. I'm not cutting wires or permanently attaching them, yet. I'm still planning on just using wire nuts at all the connections to test.
Once everything checks out, I'll take it all apart, fish the wires through the body and cut to length/solder all the connections.
My wheels and tires came in yesterday and today I threw them on the car.
It looks weird but they are both 17's:
255/40 Front and 275/40 Rear.
Old vs New(front):
I didn't take a picture of the old tires vs the 275s in the rear.
Stockers on the front:
New:
They don't actually stick out much, but, they do hit the front of the opening without being turned much. This gets cut out when flares go on:
I think that's due to both the new tires being a slightly bigger overall diameter and a change to the scrub radius because of the negative offset. Well, and that they're much wider. It doesn't look like much would be need to be taken out so that they clear the airdam/fenders.
The rear sticks out quite a bit more than the front:
Farther away showing both:
Ignore the positive camber. It's adjustable to -2°(according to Will) or so at the upright before I would have to weld in camber plates. When I put the suspension back together I just bolted it up without checking where it was or even making sure it was even side to side. I'll probably pick up a set of adjustable control arms so that I can adjust toe.
The rear is actual coilovers from Will's kit and I can adjust ride height. I don't actually plan on lowering it much, if at all. Much lower and the exhaust would hit all speed bumps instead of just some of them. It will always be a streetcar first.
I need to get under it and actually check, but, the fronts do clear the stock diameter springs, which was a concern of mine. It's by very little, the tire doesn't rub, but, I can't fit my finger between the tire and the spring either.I'll likely go ahead with trying the $40 chevette springs and cut them to length. We'll see if they rub under load when cornering. If they do I'll just end up with front coilvers sooner than originally planned.
Either way, I'm not messing with the fender flares or front suspension/brakes at all until the wiring is done.Something I knew, but, had forgotten about until now is that with the 8.8 swap, the threads on the wheel studs are different front to back now, too. Front is M12x1.25 while the Intrepid hubs on the rear are M12x1.5. When I have the front apart to put on the new rotors I'll get some M12x1.5 studs for the front.
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Heh, had I logged in a day earlier perhaps we could have tried to save on shipping. I'm likely ordering a set of flares from RHDJapan tomorrow.
I still find it really funny that we both have more or less the same project planned, just starting from opposite ends.
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I
Just an FYI a 5 point is really uncomfortable. If the crotch strap comes into play for any reason (hard breaking) it can get real uncomfortable. A 6 point is better as it more or less holds your inseam, but at that point you really are strapped in, very very little mobility. I'm replacing my 5 point with a 4 point schroth antisub setup. Might be worth looking into.
I totally agree with all of this.
I had a car with 6-points and once you were in, you couldn't move much. Though, there wasn't and discomfort under hard braking.
5-points try to crush your nuts.
I've been in a friend's car(amusingly the same car I had 5/6 points in) with those Schroth anti-sub 4-points and it was surprisingly comfortable. Whenever I get to changing the seats and adding harnesses to my car it's what I'll go with.
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I got my LEDs from digikey today and they should work out perfect.
I'm going to need to buy some resistors for the blue one as it is way too bright, which I thought might be the case going in.
It's not a big deal, I'm going to be ordering some more stuff from Digikey anyway.
The green ones should be the perfect brightness as turn signal indicators.
I ordered wheels yesterday. 17x8.5 -10 front and 17x9.5 -20 rear which fit perfectly with flares based on a couple cars I've seen with the same wheels/size/offsetI needed to get something done today.
So, I got the LEDs in the dash.
Size of the LEDs:
Mounted:
Turn signals lit up, the light level is perfect. They're clearly visible with all the lights on in the room, and, not too bright when it's completely dark with all the lights off.
I had to hook them up to a battery to see what it looked like.
Even with the camera flash on:I very carefully used a drillbit to make the initial hole that is just slightly smaller than the body of the LEDs. After that I got a piece of coat hanger hot with a torch and used that to make the holes through the foam to the back side.
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It's all just metal, I'm sure something can get figured out when I get there.
Long term v8 260z project.
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
The higher treadwear and being better in the rain of the Extreme Contact DW was at the suggestion of my friends who compete.
There's not a lot of options for something in a 275 on a 17" wheel anymore.
When I had my Evo I went for the extreme performance summer tires and went through a set every summer. Hankook RS3s and Dunlop Star Specs left a lot to be desired in the wet, IMO. The continentals are supposed to be better at it.
In the past from the Evo I tried Dunlop Star Specs, Hankook RS3s, Bridgestone RE-11s and RE-01R. They all worked well, though I simply am not a good enough driver to tell the real difference between them at the limit.