twogees

Thanks- yea i did see that one but 30 bux w/shipping was a bit much for it i thought. for another 15 i could get a new one w keys just seein if someone has one on here first.

ok so i am an idiot and i drove off w/o my gas cap today. i would like to see if anyone has one laying around they'd like to sell. i'd take it with key or w/o. aslong as the cap is in unlock position. thanks-Ben

Anyone have any idea what this is? Please, I'm at a loss as to what that box is i haven't seen anyone else with any thing like that. t

crazy wiring. Trying to get a grip on what the PO has going on. i have a 79zx. my car was stripped down 2 years ago with the idea it was gonna get re wired and mS control spark. well that didn't happen and now my car has had to go from just a block to complete again in the last 2 weeks. i am anxious to drive it again but was left with a rats nest of wires and splices to make you cringe. Alot of stuff wasn't labeled for as i say i was planning on putting a whole new MS harness and get rid of the msd btm. most evrythign was obvious but theres a few things i cant get my finger on. Ive searched for ever for someone with a set up like mine and cant seem to come up with it. There's some transformer or whatever it is. I cant figure out what it is for the life of me. Here's a pic of the box i am talking about and the mess... the box is plugged directly to the btm by way of harness w purple,green wires. So there's the blue wire and a b/w switched power wire coming from the car. the blue wire t's off from car to one to the bottom left connection on the ?box. the other one to the dist. now the b/w wire branches off 4 ways,1- to the bottom right on the ?box..2- to switched power on the msd btm. 3- to the condenser thing then that is connected to the spade off the vac adv. 4-then turns into a brown wire and heads to the other spade on the dist. I don't have the factory plug so I need to make sure the blue and brown goes on the distributor ic unit on the right side. Now with the key on,and everything hooked up, i have switched power in the blue and b/w..Is that right? wires are going everywhere and i just need to redo this right once and for all and i need some insight please. im trying to get some signal to the msd and need to confirm i have this right. I also use the tach sig from the msd to control my inj in MS, so those arnt firing either till i get this figured out. Then i can gander that it is a bad dist.I hope that's all this is. It worked when i parked it but it fell one day and that must have broken it inside I'm guessing. The magnets are cracked and the continuity was changing when the red, green wires were jiggled, indicating possibility of a short from the pkup.Does all that sound right? im still learning and just trying to get a better understanding of whats going on with my particular car. It needs to be mobile asap. I don't have a working car and I'm moving very soon. thanks-ben

ok tried to bypass the msd just to see if i could get spark. No go. So my guess is the dist isn't sending a signal to the msd for fire,rpm. Did a resistance check between the two wires coming from the pkup in the dist to the ic unit and was getting varied readings depending how i moved the wire. does that mean there's a short in wire? took the magnet off and it was cracked in several places. i would hate to buy another dist to set it back up like this (i want to go edis) but im on a time crunch cause im moving in the next week or so and my car has to be mobile. does that sound like the culprit to you for lack of signal? should i upgrade to a turbo dist instead of another n/a dist. im gonna try to read more about it but i dont think i can make the switch happen in time.

i dont know if it matters but my fuel pump is not hooked through MS.theres no fidle wire. i dont have a stim board. only the middle led on MS comes on for a sec or two when i turn the key. when MS is open the rpm and inj plsewdth are in red. the MT version i have is 2.25b514 beta.

hey matt-yes i got the ms harness tach wire plugged directly into it .checked my power running from batt to msd box, switched power to the msd, then power and ground to coil. but no power to coil from msd with test light. but no rpm sig to MS either. Im not an expert or gotten real far yet but everything else seems to be reading that i can see tps, clt etc so i dont think (hope) my prob isn't anything on the MS side. where would the msd read rpm signal from. magnetic pickup? could there be a prob with that? but it should still at least get power to the coil i would think. man i hate wiring. :blink:

Ok, i didnt want to start a new thread, im having the same prob..my MS 1 v2.2 used to be hooked up and ran fine. just got the car hooked back up tonight after 2 years and im getting no rpm signal or inj pulse width readings. im only using ms for fuel. im using a non turbo dist msd btm and msd coil, the btm is run of a magnetic pkup. theres power going directly to the msd from the battery but theres no spark from coil , power to coil from msd or rpm signal.IM wondering if the msd went bad from sitting so long. now from reading this i now understand that with no rpm the injectors wont fire. IM getting power coming outta the injector resistor box to the injectors, the plugs smell of 0 fuel but theres definitely plenty of pressure at the rail. im itching to get this baby fired up and help or ideas is appreciated thanks-Ben

OK sorry for the stupidity in advance(no pun intended).... i thought i didn't want advance, since it is turbo? i thought i wanted it to retard, thats why i had the msd btm to retard (x) amount of timing per psi of boost? I should set what conservatively? the boost level? and by "pulling" timing under boost you mean pulling it advance or pulling it retard? yes i am a retard. lol. so what should i do now as a fix to this ? run a 82-83 dist w/o MS for now? or just stick w what i have til i can get MS/S working and controlling spark? basically any tuner should know what to do (if they are good)? yea it doesnt seem like i have been able to find anyone else running the same stuff i have like the pick up, dist i have, and btm. it must be an outdated way to run , but its what i have .no wonder ive been having trouble trying to figure this out.

heres the wire and capacitor hooked up to the vac part of the the dist i believe. heres the pick up connected to the msd

Gollum- thanks for the reply. OK that's what i thought. i figured, hell as long as i get a good tune done, then i figured the drop in comp should be ok. just wanted some confirmation.. I do like the idea of those pistons you described. i will try to look into that. the msd unit you posted the link for, is that the same/similar as the msd btm i have ? just with a rev limiter/2 step? give me a few mins and i will post some pics of the dist. my whole goal is eventually upgrade my M.S. to control spark(whole nother can of worms!!) then i wouldnt need to worry bout a dist if i go distributor less. Then I could get rid of the msd btm. I do know thats my weak link now(and most important go figure).. but with the power levels i would like to achieve right now in this car i thought it should fair well up to 300 hp or so( i just cant let my boat have more hp than my car)lol... plus i thought id keep it mild for now its a rust bucket. don't want it falling apart. i have no actual goal..what ever the car can run at w/o blowing up is what it ends up. there's no reason to blow it up from trying to boost beyond the cars means. Doesn't make sense.(i do have a bigger turbo and another block i plan to put in my other 280) I had looked into doing the crank trigger but the mods ive seen are for a pulley w/o A/c. I live in fl, there's no way im getting rid of that. my fuel side (knock on wood) should be good the MS was already programed for this setup already aside for lower comp, and i relocated the intake temp sensor to in front of the throttle body instead of in the air filter before the turbo. so its gonna need a tune for sure. I really plan on having it tuned as soon as i can get it to the dyno. im only waiting for $$ for head studs, a few bolts, odds n ends and i should hopefully have it running again very soon. So as far as the timing, now i should put the timing chain on crank and stock cam gear like normal, set dist at tdc aswell so timing is all at 0, but should i leave the BTM where it is, or should i make it 0 aswell to start out with?

brad- unfortunately i dont have spark control on the ms just fuel.I haven't gotten that far.this car was built in 05' im sure alot of things on it can be done differently. thats the stuff im trying to figure out. A more efficient way of running this car than previously setup. A lot needs to be redone..but for now i just need this car mobile..im moving in a few weeks, time is limited and i cant tow it everywhere.

my head is spinning... im still trying to get this car figured out..trying research to figure out exactly what i have and such but it is slow going process. i went back through the paper work and the receipt for the dist says 280zx dist w/ vacc advance not w/o. the wire leading to the vacc advance w/ the capacitor leading to the blk/white wire was hooked up so i would imagine it was working. the mechanical advance, i have to try and search for that cause i have no idea. as far as the timing i dont know what that was set at either. as far as what the timing was ..all i know is the msd was set between 2-3 on the retard dial and the dist was just about clocked all the way clock wise. it is still in the same position it was in when removed. i never did any timing readings in the short timee i had the car and it was running. im still trying to figure out timing and how to set it to get it running again with boost.

double check the size on the bung .. i know some factory narrow bands are smaller than the bosch for instance. it was like that on my old 240sx.

brad- yea i was just trying to keep it how it was set up (w/ lower compression) yea i know it lost some torque by having it low. maybe the car will feel better when i get it up and running w/ the bump in comp.. i do currently have a spearco front mount and piping still have my stupid stock down pipe though, but 3" exhaust back from there. i double checked the last megasquirt settings and the car was dynoed at it was(according to this) 15lbs, not what i stated earlier. I seemed to have read that many places in other threads..I decided im not gonna stack em.. just gonna stick with one. and go with new arp studs instead . its gonna be a stock type gasket. i had a metal one on there.

LOl...i dont understand what that thing is jeff,(oh i see now) but have you seen these ..i plan on getting one.At 35 bucks less than half of the price. http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1583/aem-no-weld-o2-sensor-mount.aspx

yea I read that in a thread somewhere match the gasket to the block. i just ordered a complete gasket set today. as for efi i have ms 1 v2.2 , injectors 440cc walbro pump. the timing is just being controlled by msd6 btm the knob is between 2-3. the distributor is non turbo 280zx with vacuum advance locked according to the receipt . running off a magnetic pickup plugged to the msd. as far as timing curve, if your talking about in the Megasquirt its not in there. actually i wish i knew. i only have a bunch of old MS setting pages from the previous owner.I'm not even sure what values (fuel)the board is set to now. im guessing what ever the table opens up to when you open mega tune would be whats currently on the board? im not sure. ill have to wait to get it hooked back up to tell.

yea ive read about the shims, but as it was mentioned, I took it that the small gain wasn't worth the risk of having that thing flapping around if (and when) the gasket blew again. the car was already running and tuned with the thicker gasket. it was previously running at 12lbs. seemed like it had no lower end torque . 1-2 sucked but then 3-4 pulled real nice and strong when in boost. it is stock cam gear. i was gonna replace the timing kit cause there seems to be some groves worn on the guide. and everywhere it says to just put a new kit in. i think im just gonna put a single gasket on and have it re tuned on the dyno and see what happens. im figuring the compression for the p90- std bore p79 flat tops to be 8.5 /8.8 -1 .which is not all that high for boost, just not ideal for our cars ... some know better? and im guess my best bet for a gasket now days is the felpro permatorque? since ishino doesn't seem to have one that i can find for the n42. i can just drop the boost a notch maybe run it at 10 psi (or lower) depending on the out come of the tune. and be good for some mild driving. no racing or anything crazy just to have my car mobile and drivable again. Just to mention all this is temporary . i have a few upgrades set aside for the future, along with a new shell w tops im throwing this motorset in. eventually. as far as the ringlands im being optimistic in thinking since it was two joining cyls that were leaking (according to my findings) and there is no scoring on the two cylinder walls it was the head gasket. looking at the gasket in between cyls 4-5 there seems to be a clean wash so to say of the carbon ring . unlike the other cyls that have a solid ring indicating a good seal.i dont know that just my 1st theory. i could be wrong. The thought as crossed my mind of another scenario, ok so the metal gaskets are strong, the ringlands apear to be ok from that i can see so whats the weak link? the head bolts? they are known to be weak. maybe they stretched and caused a leak that way? what if i just bought arp's, and torqued everything down again. maybe it would be ok then? wouldn't be that strange of a theory i dont think...what do you guys think?

ok so ive been searching all day off and on and all i can find for the n42 other than metal gaskets are the felpro, beck arnley and the nippon. i was hoping to find ishino but by the looks of it i can only find it for the f54...seeing from thread to thread gaskets /suppliers come and go all the time, does anyone know where i can currently get one? .. if not which out of those 3 those would you recommend? i haven't read much good about any of them. Is there away to tell for sure if my metal gasket truly is blown ? i was still wondering about putting the two gaskets together though. do it just like normal? Do i really need to double it up? Considering the mods i have, can i get it to run right with one gasket on the flat-top/p90 combo.. . i plan on getting it tuned on the dyno after its running. After reading alot of guys running much higher comp #'s boosted i feel 1 gasket might be sufficient. Please any help is appreciated. thanks-B

I'm guessing thers no difference if he's n/a and im boosting? any trick if i use two, or just put the two on top of each other and torque like normal? sorry never used two head gaskets before.

Basically in a nut shell what i want to know is , with the items and set-up i have, can a good re-tune get this thing working properly(not a band aid fix) w/a felpro gasket, or will i have to stick with the thicker head gasket to keep detonation from knockin at my door. I know i can run an additive like aces if i had to but id rather be on pump gas alone. http://www.americancleanenergysystems.com/products_gasoline_catalyst.php alot of guys i know run this in their performance boats with high comp heads. so i know it works. If so, im buying that gasket tomorrow so i can get this thing purrin'

im wondering if maybe the gasket didn't blow, considering it was a metal one. I know they break too, but if some thing else happened, maybe the weak link was the stock bolts and they gave from overboost and was loosing comp because of that instead. Might be a dumb ? but, is there a way to tell if the gasket really is blown or not?

I dont know who that is, but I had thought of that. I was told it was a big no no. The way they seat on the surface. i dont know im not an expert by no means. So it can be done? maybe, but do want to find out the hard way..lol. you say he used to..is anyone donig that anymore?

I have been searching for quite some time. Found a few things that are similar , but nothing that pertains to my particular set-up. I have a basic idea but trying to figure out what i can get away with as far as comp ratios go. First, a run down of my setup pertaining to this ?- n42 block w/flattops , p90a head, turbo, front mount, old ms1 for fuel only, msd btm,and i have a wideband that will be installed when running again . That being said, i have a certain level of control so that leaves me with a lil wiggle room for adjustments at the tuner if im correct. Why it was setup this way, i dont know( i ask myself that about half the stuff on this car) but im stuck with it now. So it is what it is. Just to give you an idea of power range, I saw past dyno sheets from it, and he car was making about 240 hp at one point. Whether it was making that when i got it i dont know. I'd like to be in that ballpark again if possible maybe 240-275 range,(haha) likely . I had a metal head gasket on there. It is over 2mm, maybe 2.5 new not sure. It is reading lil over 2.25 mm now. Which was used to bring the comp down obviously.( i didn't build this). Well long story short(lol) i wont bore you with details, but the gasket i believe blew from an over boost error. Never mixed coolant /oil, but never ran quite the same after that either. Did a compressed air test in each cyl, and 4-5 both had air leaking to the each other when other cyl's didn't . since the cyl were next to each other i figured blown gasket. got the gasket off , and tell me if im missing some thing, but the gasket bore is 90mm and the block is 86mm. So that cant be right. Second the gasket doesn't seem to be matched to the block, it has passages the p90a has that the block doesn't. i feel they should be blocked at the head not the other way around..no? had the head taken to the machine shop said it was really flat so ok good there. not sure how much exactly the head has been cut since new, gonna try to get a # on the thickness of the head that i will post later . i need a head gasket either way. I'm tapped for cash an forking over 300 or so just for another 2+mm gasket is hard to swallow right now, among the other things i need to get this car moving. I mean if i have to, i eventually will. Changing to dished pistons which is ideal i know, but is outta the question at this moment. So my ? is , with keeping my comp down as much as i can , can one of you gurus tell me whats the minimum gasket i can run. id like to buy a reg gasket,( for $$ reasons and to keep it my weak link) like a lot of you have but not sure if my set-up can handle it. My car's been sitting for a long time, and i just want to hear it run again. I've been racking my brain trying not to ask, but i need some help. If i missed anything, let me know and i will post back up. thanks a lot. I wanna hear this thing scream again!! -Ben