Jump to content
HybridZ

jayzrocket

Members
  • Posts

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jayzrocket

  1. Lol, where else would you put it?

    Yea lol. With a stock set up on a zx this was the spot I picked out after I relocated the coil. I responded because of the title question, for reference pouposes for others. I heard concerns about how far away from the T/B it should be, Mine works fine from this spot. :weird:.

    Thanks.

  2. I was wondering when and or how do I remove the air valve stuff on the intake of the L28et? Is this part of the BCDD? Iv'e recently installed a bov and was curious if because of this should and can I remove that stuff to clean up the manifold a little bit? Also Im going to the 60mm t/b and the adaptor isn't drilled for the air valve plumming yet.

    Thanks,

    J.

  3. I have purchased a used bov off of an 180sx for my zxt from japan on ebay and was wondering how do i set it up after installation? I guess what I am asking in particular is what kind of and where to tie the vaccume into? This is a blitz super sound bov, and do i need to do any adjusting to the bov itself?

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. :redface:

  4. I need a little direction pleeze.

    I have a mostlty stock zxt w/ a few minor mods. Fresh T-3, 10lb cotroller,

    Blitz bov from 180sx, decent intake w/ 60mm tb, adjustable fpr, and just purchased an 11mm o-ring fuel rail. I was wondering if anyone here has any suggestions for which injectors to use w/ the factory ecu? The gentelman that I bought the rail from said that the yellow top supras would be fine, but I remeber reading in the fuel injector upgrade opions tread that to steer clear of them because of the cc rating. Maybe these would be ok with the fact ecu. And shouldn't I stick w/ low impedence? And are the yellows Hi or Low's?

    Thanks in advance,

    J.

  5. If you havent already, check the cylinder head temp sensor connection or even the sensor. This gave me the exact same issue. If you relace it try and get a nissan one,

    I've had better luck with the factory electrical parts. Also don't over tighten when replacing it so that it doesn't bottom out and get dammaged. This is located on the passenger side of the cylinder head by the back two spark plugs and the connector resembles the fuel injector connectors type.

  6. Absolutely, 1,500 at best. These guys are right, and like the gentleman said before "not trying to be rude" but you can do much better for that kind of $. Just take a little time and keep your eyes open, you will be much happier. I found one sittin in a dry climate field that hadn't been driven or even started for 15+ yrs, 83 turbo 5spd bought it for 800 bux towed it 100 mls to home and all she needed was a fuel pump.

    Rust free, very very hard to find but they are out there.

    P.S. Welcome to this site, it has been the biggest help to me!

  7. Hey there is a guy on here that has a m/s for sale tat came out of or was for a mustang, v2.0 or 2.2. I was wondering if I picked this up if there is a lot I would have to do. He hasn't used it yet, and sold the project he was going to use it for, which was a turbo zx i believe. Can these just simply be reprogrammed to accomodate the vehicle to be used with? Or will I have to purchase different things such as connections and boards, stuff of that nature? I asked the seller these ?'s and he simply sent me a link as to where to buy them and to have them custom made.

    Thanks, J.

  8. Hello,

    I have a question that I need an experienced, educated reply to.

    I have an 83 turbo, pretty much stock. I have a stage three six puck clutch, fresh t-3, decent straight thru exhaust and aftermarket air intake, 10lb boost controller, 60mm t/b, and adjustable fpr. I am planning on an aftermarket fuel rail and upgrade the injectors. I want to keep it as streetable as possible. I havent gone as far as sds or programable yet, so with the factory ecu what route would be the best? Yes Ive used the search feature and still havent found a clear answer. For instance, I found a rail, 11mm o-ring and he suggested the yellow supras. I read in the fuel related issues, injector upgrades it mentions not to use the yellow tops because they are 295cc, but my factory ones are only 215cc, wouldnt the yellow ones be better? Also, high or low impedence with my factory ecu? Some one else mentioned that the low impedence is best for sds, (stand alone system), should I use the high impedence?

    Any input would be much appreciated.

  9. I had this issue as well but it was at the coil. Unplug the electrical connection to the ignitor on the coil, mine is on the bottom side if the coil points to the front of the car, and it will be towards the front of the car if the coil points up. But there is a black plug or connector with two female spades that unplugs from the coil, you sometimes can simply unplug then re-connect and will start. but after a few times of this it was simply time to clip the conector, get a couple new (red) female spades and voila! I hope it is this simple for you. Either way it worth trying.

    By the way the wire colors were, one black and one yellow, at least on my '83 turbo.

  10. Did the pin that holds the cam gear to the camshaft shear or come out?

    Check that before pulling the timing cover. But if your luck is like mine, the tensioner probably poped out. You should be able to shine a flashlight down into the front cover from the passenger side of the car and see if the tensioner is in place, about halfway down the chain. Good luck.

  11. Hello,

    I am looking to buy an aftermarket fuel rail and possibly injectors as well.

    Everytime I look for a set up ar at least the rail, I just miss out everytime.

    So I am posting this to try and get a jump on the next set or one that comes by.

    Thanks,

    Jason.

     

    P.S. I have some '83 Turbo stuff for possible trade.:mrgreen:

  12. I have an issue with the flow meter poping at throttle. could I have poor fuel or maybe dirty fuel filter? Here is what is going on. I found this ZXT in a mechanics lot last Oct. and hadn't been started or driven since '93. The main reason why I bought the car was it has almost no rust, even in the common areas. So when I got it to the house, for giggles I checked the fuel relays and fuses, showed to be good, so I replaced the fuel pump and plugs and she fired right off. Kewel! But I couldn't get it to go into gear with the clutch when it was running, so I pulled the T-5 out to inspect and the bellhousing looked as if it had held water about a 3rd the way up.

    Got a new clutch kit and resurfaced the flywheel, while Im at it, the Z has 191k on the clock so might as well have the turbo rebuilt. So I did. the builder said that I should be safe to set it @ 10lbs. and no more than 12 to 15 without an intercooler. Got every thing back together, fluids are fresh and back in business. Without driving it, it would start and come on the gas decent but when I would drive it, it would go bout a block and try to run out of gas. so I replaced fuel pump, again and filter and FPR, except this one is adjustable. At first seemed to do a little better but kinda fell back into its illness. Well I said, lets pull the sending unit, I honestly don't know how this poor thing was even starting up. The unit was so badly rusted from the years of condinsation build up that I couldn't even see thru the pick up screen. The floats wouldn't even move. I replaced the tank and unit and now I can drive it. But I cannot seem to get her dialed in. I have the FPR set at 42lbs @ idle and even tho I don't have a timming light, Im shure the distributor is pretty close. Not so sure bout the throttle position switch. I did have a flat spot when you first touched the throttle, so I adjusted that till it was gone. And after reserching all of my questions and thoughts on this site I have concidered the "from flow meter to mass air sensor" upgrade. But until I get around to doing that how or what can I look for about the popping back thru the AFM. So that is why I ask, what are the "common" issues that could make this occur?

×
×
  • Create New...