RagingPanda
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Everything posted by RagingPanda
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Its almost my anniversary, My progress, Lots of pics!!!
RagingPanda replied to MJLamberson's topic in Non Tech Board
quick question about the air dam. I plan to do the conversion for my 280z also and I like the lower turn signals instead of the upper ones. What do you use to cover up the upper turn signals once you take them out completely. No point of having the upper ones when the lower ones are working. -
I totally know where you're coming from. I have a huge front mount kit for ca18det in a 240sx(s13) but I cannot ship it because they consider it freight price and that's $200. Who will buy a fmic + $200 for shipping.
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yup. I just used a sharpie and color the part to make sure where it was hitting. Then put it in and shifted into the problematic gears before and when I took it out the problem was visible. Then just grinding and more grinding.
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sorry guys, didn't sleep last night at all studied for an exam so I was a little retarded. Thanks a lot for being so helpful. I got it and fixed the problem
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I'm sorry but I have no idea what your post mean. I don't know anything about car
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The car is a 78 280z but I have a 79 5spds. At first I had the straight shifter but the transmission insulator won't fit so I got a "z" shape shifter. Everything seems great but now going to 2nd is really hard and near impossible into 4th. It's not like it won't go in but it feels like it barely goes into 2nd & 4th so it popped right back into neutral. Here are some images. The first pic is the straight shifter I had before. The "z" shape shifter now
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From the album: parts
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From the album: car
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From the album: car
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I didn't have to take out the cam and all that stuff. I just pressed down on the valve and took out the rocker. The car is running like normal now but I sitll have one problem. Even with the socket I still couldn't break the exhaust valve #1 loose. I think I'm near stripping it. Is there a way to replace 14mm and the 17mm bolts by taking it completely out?
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I did loosen the jam nut first but like I typed, the 14mm nut won't break loose at all. All my valves work the same way except for the last one where clockwise=tighter clearance...i don't know why.. So it's best to do it cold(.008 for intake and 0.10 for exhaust)
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how you know if my valve is burn or not. How would I burn the valve when it's already way out of adjustment already to begin with and it was running fine.What I want to know is how you loosen up the 14mm when it's stuck. I really can't move it at all.
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I have no idea because I even tried 0.06 and it didn't fit. I think it's really tight. One thing for sure was if it's too tight you loosen the 14mm or if it's too loose then you tighten it, but how come for the last valve it's the opposite way of doing it. Is the first vavle(the one I'm having problem with) operates the same way? I'm at the point where I'm stripping the 14mm on the first exhuast valve becuase it just won't move! Is there a trick you guys know?
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The car was doing ok before I adjusted the valves but after I adjusted the vavles(0.012 exhaust and 0.010 for intake) the car is terrible.Lost in power, stumbling at idle and when step on the gas. The only valve I had problem with was the first exhaust valve, the 14mm adjustment bolt won't turn.