sx240z

thanks Guy for the response, I'll check it out. Jason

I used the EO-IC method last time. I think my mistake last time was, I didn't realize that when the rocker arm is down the valve is open. I think I did it reverse (valve is open when rocker arm is up), I'm not sure. What would be the symptoms of bent rods? Or a wiped cam? My car runs and idles fine but has a clicking noise due to the valves and seems to be slower than usual. Jason

Well today I wanted to adjust my valves because I felt like my 350 isn't running like it should. I adjust my valve while the engine is off. I pull the covers turn the engine and turn it again and none of rockers move. If they do it's barely noticeable. I have hydraulic lifters, and a stock cam. I'm guessing the last time I adjusted them I screwed up. Should I try to adjust them while it's running? Any ideas? Jason

yeh I just got ziexes on all four and it was like night and day compared to my old worn out tires. It's so much smoother driving on the street and steering in a parking lot is much easier. I got em cheap too but I wouldn't recommend them for autox. They are great street tires for the cost. Jason

hey marcus, where'd you get those turn signals from? I was planning on doing something similar, with taller signals to fit the whole grill area. I was thinking of doing that cuz when I cracked my airdam it was dragging on the floor and I lost my driverside turnsignal somewhere. And just trying to find that signal at the pick a part is hopeless. For the airdam I was planning on filling the whole signal light area with fiberglass, unless I find a driver side light for cheap. Jason

This exact same thing happened to me, cuz I was using the stock clutch with a lightweight flywheel. What I did was grind down the bolts very slightly and then sanded down the inner recess of the wheel. After it fit fine. Hope this helps. Jason

Damn Marcus I love that hood. Great job! Jason

Here's my v8z most engine and suspension work done. Now I need to work on the body. The front airdam came from marcus' silver z. Thanks again marcus! Unfortunately it got cracked and was dragging on the freeway cuz I ran into an unseen shredded tire recently. But don't worry I'll fix it soon.

Welcome to the site Wingnut, I too have a 240sx and it's a 97 same as yours. I was in your situation a while back and also wanted to do an sr20det swap or turbo my ka, but back then I knew little about the actual mechanics that went into a swap. What I did was kept my 240sx as a daily driver since it was my first car I bought with my own money and I love how it looks and drives. Then bought a 73 240z locally for $700 with a blown head gasket and RUST FREE (it has to be rust free or it would be a waste of time) and dumped about $3000 worth of parts including the engine. Now I have a v8z car that actually scares me when I floor the gas. And I learned so much when doing the swap and maybe when I have the funds I'll turbo my Ka on my 240sx or something. Hopefully I gave you a little inspiration . Well good luck! Also use the search button up top I couldn't have done it without it. Jason

Hi, I was wondering what are the exact bolts you guys are using with your chevy truck mounts. I ask because I'm using 3/8x24x1 1/2 and I think I messed up the thread cuz I can't tighten them. Thanks! Jason

1997 240sx se, pretty much stock with a magnaflow exhaust and an injen cold air (first car, was almost in ricer mode hehe) 1973 240z, my baby with a chevy 350, t-5 tranny, and almost ready to drive legally on the street.

I'll be there! Jason

Count me in too. I'll bring my hybrid but I dont want to be next to tims car, he'll make mine look bad hehe.

cool thanks a lot!

so where did you get that coil element? jason

Well I got a spa a while back from a family friend and all the jets work, but i can't get that damn thing to heat the water. I've read somewhere that you need to bleed the water, but it still doesn't heat up. The previous owner said it was working fully. I don't know it could have gotten damaged when we tried to put it in our backyard. Anyone got any ideas, i was planning to fix it as a present for my parents since i got no money. Thanks! Jason

nice car man, keep up the good work

yeh thanks for everything, It was nice to finally see u guys in person. Your z looks great tim, matts and owens looked very clean too. Can't wait for the next meet. Jason

SHE'S ALIVE...yay i'm so happy right now. The problem was thosed damn crimp connecters. I went to check if the pipe fitting I used that connects to the fuel pressure switch was not clogged or anything, and when I pulled the wires off the terminals i noticed the fuel pump wire was cut inside the connector. I guess i crimped it too hard and it got cut. After i replaced it I fired her up and checked to see if the fuel pump was running and it was. So I was all smiles after ! I let her idle high for 30 minutes with no problems, temp stayed about at 185. Man I'm so happy ! Now I'm gonna try and drive her tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys! Jason

I'm thinking my fuel pump pressure switch is the problem. It cuts the fuel pump with oil pressure being below 15psi. But I've read that at idle 10 psi is normal at 1000rpm. So how do I keep my fuel pump on? Or should I get the holley fuel pressure switch. Well first I'll fix my oil leak problem at the pan and filter. Then use my oil pump primer to see if I have good oil pressure. If I do i'll probably replace my fuel pump pressure switch.

yeh it does run, when i prime the carb i hook up the pump to a switch then straight to the battery. Also its a carter 7-8 psi fuel pump

Ok guys I started her up and the same thing happens. Good thing is I know what the problem is. Basically when I start the engine the fuel pump doesnt turn on. But to get it to run I have to prime the carb manually with a switch. After the fuel in the carb goes it dies. 1. my fuel pump works 2. don't know if my fuel pump pressure switch is bad or my wiring is wrong. It's a mr.gasket switch with 3 terminals. On the instructions it says the left terminal goes to ignition, right goes to fuel pump, and bottom goes to starter relay. I have it so the left goes to bat at hei, right terminal goes to fuel pump, and the bottom goes to the green white wire (73z). 3. or my pressure switch is working and im not getting enough oil pressure. I also saw a small leak at the rear of the oil pan. Could that cause the low oil pressure? Well these are the things i'm thinking are causing the problems. Please I need help! It's my first project and I can't wait to get her on the road. Thanks! Jason

actually after seeing my video taping of me trying to start it, it was more like 5 seconds. Yeh and i think it is the fuel. I'll go try to start it up again tomorrow. Thanks for the input guys. Jason

but unfortunately only lasted 30 secs. After I tried cranking it again it wouldn't fire. I'm thinking its my battery cuz it's only reading 12.35v, but the starter was turning the engine. I don't know I'll probably check the timing again tomorrow its probably that. It's good finally hearing the 350 though. It sounded pretty loud cuz there's no exhaust and only the headers. Well wish me luck tomorrow I'd do it now but it's getting late and don't want to be a nuisance to the neighbors also I have a calculus midterm tomorrow . Laters! Jason

Hi guys, I have some concerns about wiring my fuel pump safety switch. I have a 73z and the switch is from mr.gasket #7872. The safety switch has three teminals: to ignition, to fuel pump, to starter relay. In the jtr manual I'm kinda confused on which wires to use. They say the easiest way is to wire the green-white wire to the fuel pump wiring. So does that go to the ignition side of the terminal on the switch? Also jtr says to splice the black/white to the bat terminal and this goes to the switch. Which one do I use? And do I still need to splice into the black/yellow solenoid wire on the starter? Also, where can I pull 12v for my electric choke? Thanks! Jason