jgkurz
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Posts posted by jgkurz
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Tube on back bumper of TonyD's car: parachute, its a speed record car.
Daeron, I know a little something about a "speed record car" as you say and that doesn't look like any parachute I've seen on any race car or at Bonneville. You could be right but every chute I've seen on a non-streamliner looks something like the enclosed pic. I know our LSR 280ZX uses a normal chute.
Tony, please educate me. Is that a parachute on the 2+2 like Daeron suggests or ?????
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Until SCTA changed their website recently you could find shots of us at the World Finals, in 2000, 2001.
It's a Silver 280Z 2+2, with Red Sides and Blue Accents. Double Limo-Tint on the windows side and back with Moons.
Shoot me a PM and I can send you some shots to your email account....Oh, waitaminit! I just remembered these online:
Everybody seems to like the last one best...
D'jya think the trailer, residing and bought in SoCal has been to the salt a couple of times? LOL
Great pics Tony. What's the tube coming out of the rear bumper? That can't be the exhaust or is it????
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Now that's funny!!
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Congrats Phil. The GT35R is a great turbo for the L28. Did you go with the Garrett compressor cover? How about the turbine side, is it a .63 or .82?
With a GT35R/.63 turbine, HBZ user JeffP made an estimated 658 crank HP with his radical L30ET. I hope you get close.
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My first car was a 1966 Chev Malibu/Chevelle. It was hugger orange with a black interior and bench seat. I built a .030 small journal 327 for it with turbo 350 transmission. The car and engine had a bunch of great speed parts that could of made for a fast car. Unfortunately I went cheap on the build and machining which ultimately caused the engine to have bearing problems. I tore it all down and left for the military only to have all the parts stolen while I was in boot camp. Oh well, it was a good time in my life and a great learning experience. I will always wonder how fast the car would of been if the engine was put together by a professional.
I'm just sorry I never got to take advantage of that big bench seat.
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You're such a one-upper Tony...
All these cars and no favorite?
Uh....1970 240Z Yellow
1971 240Z Green
1971 240Z Orange
1971 240Z White
1971 Fairlady Z (S) White
1972 240Z Red
1973 240Z Green
1973 240Z Black (Sharkie)
1974 260Z Grey
1974 260Z Blue
1974 260Z Orange (Getting Cut to Parts soon...)
1974 Norskog 350Z 2+2 Conversion (HybridZ Sourced) Maroon
1974 260Z(T) 2+2 Red (Fat Bumper)
1975 280Z 2+2
1976 Fairlady Z 2/2 (Standard with Plastic Mats)
1976 280Z Blue (non A/C Car)
1976 280Z Silver (with A/C)
1977 280Z Brown (LeMons Car)
1977 280Z Brown (Cutting to parts currently)
1977 280Z Brown (Last Years LeMons Car, Cut to bits awaiting trailer)
1977 Fairlady Z 2/2 (GL with Power Windows)
1978 Fairlady 280Z (Manufactured July 1977)
1979 280ZX 2+2
1980 280 ZX 2+2
1981
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Current:
1977 280z - My baby
Previous:
1978 280z - My 1st Z while I was in the military. Unfortunately I rolled it on a trip home.
1976 280z - This was the car I found with no motor or trans. I converted it from auto to 5spd using the drive train from my 1st Z.
1978 280z - This was one of my favorite Z's. It was a beautiful black on black near perfect car. Unfortunately it was stolen and stripped.
1978 280z - This was my late cousins Z that I acquired after he passed. I eventually gave it to my sister who sold it sometime later.
1986 300ZX - I bought this car to resell. I think I made a quick 500.00.
1984 300ZXT- I bought this car to resell as well. It was a total with only 15K miles. I planned to use the engine and trans in my S30 but never finished the project.
1983 280ZXT - This was a fixer-upper I bought and refurbished. I eventually got it running well and ran a 14.6 in the quarter mile by tuning up the boost a bit. I converted it from a 3spd auto to a 4spd 300ZXT auto. Everything else was stock. This car was also stolen but recovered unmolested.
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Mine works, but I always forget to turn if off since my EQ is in the location where the blue "Rear Defroster" light was.
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The way I see it, this modification is an insurance policy in any L-6 that gets driven hard.
I agree that the coolant flow mod is good insurance and allows enhanced coolant flow through the back cylinders. The questions is whether it's necessary. My belief is that it's a waste of money on most street driven Z's. If people want to go through the hassle to modify their head and plumb in the coolant lines then more power to them.
Essentially I think we agree, it's just a matter of deciding when the mod offers the most benefit.
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I'm working on a flattop f54 with p90 that will be boosted to the point of encountering this problem.
Since this engine is full of old and high mileage parts, I may substitute one or two dished pistons in 5 and/or 6 for kicks and post dyno and damage results..........might take a month or so though.
It's not the solution but more of a workaround if it works and doesn't kill power/balance.......etc.
You guys doing the research on this thread are heros and should get mucho credit (and money) if you find the fix.
My personal opinion is that the coolant flow fixes that are being recommended in this thread are for a extremely modified L28's (turbo and n/a) that are subject to extended loads on the track or on the dyno. There are many people on this forum with over 500bhp that have not seen a need for the coolant flow mod. Again, this is my opinion, but if your car is street driven, under 500bhp and only goes the track occasionally you probably have nothing to worry about. Just make sure your cooling system is in good shape and you should have no issues. If you are still worried, bump up the pressure of your cap and add Water Wetter.
Tony D and TimZ... flame away.
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Yay!! Happy Birthday John...
Did you get any parts for your Z?
No Z parts for my birthday, bought an iPhone instead. I drove my Z to the store though.
Luv'n this cold "turbo" weather. -
lol you think he'll notice this thread before his next birthday?! conga-rats!
I'm so lame... I'm just seeing this thread. I've not been able to log on much lately....
. Thanks everyone for the well wishes. You know what they say about getting old.... it's not the age it's the mileage. I consider myself a low mileage collector car. So far 40 was just another birthday albeit an enjoyable one with my family. It wasn't hard like some people seem to experience. I figure as long as my body holds out I'll keep the pedal matted and have fun. I even have a backup plan to go to an automatic when I don't feel like shifting anymore. That'll probably be when I'm about 95yrs old. Thanks again everyone. It's much appreciated.
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I have had good luck with Eastco Machine in Gresham. They do high quality work at reasonable prices. They even have a torque plate for an L6. I think they may also be working on a way to accommodate an L6 on their new engine dyno.
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Somewhere in that book, it explains how a reversion damn on the exhaust side of a millimeter or two could help retain heat next to the turbine wheel from within the manifold rather than flowing back into the ports. It helps as the manifold pressure/gas velocity builds up it will push out one way (turbine to exhaust), rather than both ways (back into port, and through turbine/exhaust).
I was reading it on the can yesterday and made note of it because i didn't port match my exhaust ports, which made me feel good again (and even better after I was done).
just thought i'd mention.
I'm going to have to re-read that book. I do some of my best work on the can...
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JGK, you should send JeffP an E-Mail.
He's running a GT53R and is boosting at 3400. Can't remember if it's a .82 or .63A/R turbine he has. And the 18psi numbers you are mentioning sound familiar.
Thanks Tony. I've paid close attention to Jeff's build. He is using a GT35R with a .63 undivided T3 turbine housing. Somehow he's gotten 658bhp out of that turbo. It almost defies physics.
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A divided manifold will yield improvements regardless of the turbine, as what it achieves is keeping the pulses from the engine from interferring with each other as long as possible. Of course this is even better with a divided turbine housing as well. I run a divided manifold with the GT3582R with 0.82 A/R T3 turbine housing.
A T4 housing has a larger inlet, so the airflow will be slower for a given volume, so the boost threshold will be higher.
Dividing the pulses in both the manifold and turbine housing I would expect to bring the threshold down a small amount.
I have no idea on the quantities of these increases/decreases, and hence now idea how a divided T4 would compare with a non-divided T3 housing.
Dave
Thanks for the response Dave. Just curious, have you considered running a divided T3 turbine to improve boost response? Also, do you have any pictures of your manifold? I've never heard of anyone using a divided manifold with an L28.
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It is my understanding from reading Maximum Boost and How to Tune and Modify EFI that the primary method of spooling a turbo is from the heat differential across the turbine and not so much the exhaust gas velocity.
Don't you mean pressure differential? The hotter the exhaust the better the velocity.
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Hi Folks,
I have started a project to build a divided turbo header for my L28. My goal is to build boost sooner but still achieve more peak HP. I know this sounds like an impossible project, but I believe that modern turbo improvements coupled with flow improvements in my engine will net positive results. Today I'm at 535bhp/455rwhp with a VERY modified T3/4 hybrid at 26psi boost. I would like to achieve 500rwhp but at a much lower boost, say 18psi. This should also help lower intake air temps.
I know that turbo spool is affected by many things, but the turbine A/R size and the turbine wheel are the largest contributers. For the sake of conversation, let's say I have a GT35R with a .84 A/R T3 non-divided turbine that hits 20psi at 3800rpm.
How will spool and peak HP compare if I use a .84 A/R T4 non-divided? How about a .84 A/R T4 divided turbine?
Does the A/R translate across T3 and T4 turbines in that 20psi would still be achieved by 3800rpm with the same A/R turbines?
Does a divided turbine with the same A/R and flange as a non-divided turbine allow earlier spool but less peak HP capability? It seams to me that divided turbines might be more restrictive.
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1 fast z, The only clutch I found that could hold the torque is one offered by Clutch Specialties. It uses a 240mm ACT clutch cover with a sintered-iron sprung disc. The co-efficient of friction actually increases as the clutch gets hot. I had it slip once when it was cold but after it was warmed up I had no problems. This is the same clutch that TimZ, TimO, and Speeder use. I would LOVE to find a streetable clutch that didn't slip or chatter. For the time being the Clutch Specialties unit is the only one that has held the power. For now I'm choosing a clutch that is guaranteed not to slip until I can find something more friendly. I would be very excited if you could find a way to use a 250mm setup. I personally would help with development costs if it meant I could use a Z32DETT clutch. Please let us know if you pursue that project.
On a side note, I do not trust most clutch manufactures torque specs. My experience is that the rating is not necessarily for cars that have a torque curve that ramps quickly. If the torque comes on gradually then the manufactures specs might apply.
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Me too. I thought it was a Firefox issue... I cleared my cache and it still has the error occasionally. A refresh usually solves the problem.
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Yasin, I'm a little late to this thread but I wanted to chime in none the less. You have done a beautiful job to say the least. I have not spent much time making my engine look as impressive so I know the effort it took. The best part it's not all show..
. I'm confident that with good gas you will be well over 400rwhp. My guess is that you will be limited by your turbo and/or injectors first. I can't wait to see you start flogging your car on the track. -
It's about time!!!! Looks great. All your upgrades should make a huge difference.
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JeffP had a terrible time with one configuration of 650cc/min injectors getting a decent idle. Swapped over to another configuration (I think he went away from the ring/disc style) at 720CC/min and it idled MUCH better as the injector was controlling the fuel much more efficiently.
Tony, are the new 720cc/min injectors that Jeff is using a low impedance peak/hold pintle style?
See here for reference: http://sdsefi.com/injectors.htm
. Thanks everyone for the well wishes. You know what they say about getting old.... it's not the age it's the mileage. I consider myself a low mileage collector car. So far 40 was just another birthday albeit an enjoyable one with my family. It wasn't hard like some people seem to experience. I figure as long as my body holds out I'll keep the pedal matted and have fun. I even have a backup plan to go to an automatic when I don't feel like shifting anymore. That'll probably be when I'm about 95yrs old. 
DC Water Jet's 202mph Z-Car
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted
Cool. I'm not sure where you got that picture but here's the detail. The car is a 1978 280Z that was my friend Oz's first attempt at a land speed record. The picture was taken in 1979. The car had a turbocharged L28 and eventually went 188mph for the record at the time. The car was retired and sold to a guy in California. Unfortunately it was in a garage during a major earthquake and suffered fatal damage from falling shelves and engine parts.