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jgkurz

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Posts posted by jgkurz

    Man arrested for doing 164MPH

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    when i first read the tittle i thought you were talking about our member speeder rick bowers!

    that old man should not be driving that fast!!

    just kidding rick!!

     

    Rick's Z will do 164 without even trying hard....:-D I changed the title so people don't think he was arrested.

    S30 drag strip spring rates???

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    240zprace - Mine ran a 12.9@110 on the set-up I described weighing 2,830 lbs plus another 220 for me at the time. I had a 2.0 60' which you ought to be able to reduce to about a 1.6 with your tires and a little practice. If so you should get into the low 12's no problem.

     

    Just Jim - Sweet. Where'd you stuff the motor in that thing? I don't remember there being a lot of room under the hood although the little four wouldn't have been much shorter than a V8.

     

    On my 280z I run stock springs with two coils cut. Car weighed 3040 with me in it when I cut a 1.7 60ft on 245/45-16 street tires. I dropped the tire pressure to 20psi. The Illumina struts were set softer in back then the front.

    External or Internal Wastegate- Cost or Simplicity

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Can anyne else help with this. If the external wastegate will be easier to maintain and use at 12psi Ill go ahead and spend the money, but if its going to be a hassle Id rather just go with all the internal wastegate parts I have.

     

    Thanks

     

    I have thorough experience with both internal and external WG's. An internal wastegate can be improved greatly over stock but I've yet to see one that worked as well as a properly sized external wastegate. Your new DP looks like it does away with the internal wastegate and bolts directly to the turbine. It also look like you just need to weld some WG flanges to accommodate an external WG. I have gone the exact same route as you and have had the best success with my current setup which is nearly identical to your new DP but with an external WG. Hope this helps.

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    Any thoughts on SSAC using you guys header/"mold" to produce and sell headers now and make money off your header spec?

     

    I'm not sure how we could restrict them from profiting from our mold. I'm guessing that's one of the reasons they have paid for jeffer949's shipping of the OEM manifold. If the HybridZ price is right I don't think I care too much about them making money after the group buy is over.

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    Update:

    The money has been mailed to VinhZXT and should arrive by the end of the week. My guess is the header will be shipped to me the following week and delivered around 8/11. Once I get header I'll do an assessment then mock it up on a local S30 and S130. Some local guys have volunteered their non-running cars so hopefully they will still be available when the time comes. For the mock-up I don't plan on doing a full bolt up of the header and intake manifolds unless it's absolutely necessary. My plan was to install a few bolts then take photo's. Let me know if that will be adequate.

     

    Regarding cost, I will expect to be compensated for the shipping and the delta cost between the group buy price and what it takes to make my header the same quality. It would be a bonus to be compensated for my time, effort and fuel cost as well. I doubt there are enough people participating in the group buy for me to be fully compensated for the total header cost, but of course I'm willing if the majority agrees.

     

    Can someone send SSAC the pictures of the header so we can get a ball park estimate? We need this before asking for funds.

     

    Pics are here:http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13138&ppuser=7949

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    Thanks for doing this for the Group.

     

    One thing you may want to do first is do a mock up to ensure we want to go forward. Not sure if you have motor to try it on but measurements w/ stock parts would be great.

     

    Keep us posted and thanks again.

     

    My car is finally running so I won't be able to take it apart to mock up the header. I will ask some local Z folks if they could help. Stay tuned...

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    VinhZXT and I have struck a deal for the header. It will cost me $800.00 delivered to my door. We now need to determine how much money is needed from the group so I come out even.

     

    Here's what I will need funds for:

    1) Shipping with insurance from my zip 97045 to SSAC @ 27522.

     

    2) Shipping with insurance from SSAC @ 27522 to 97045

     

    3) True-up for delta between cost of VinhZXT header and group buy cost. (This will likely need to be estimated once SSAC see's pic's of the template header)

     

    The risk for me is two fold. I have no idea what condition the header is in and what it will take to make it reliable and usable. (Like a new SSAC header would be) I may need to have the flange's surfaced and welds repaired....etc. Second is the shipping to and from SSAC. I will not worry about this too much but I want to make it clear to SSAC that this loaner header needs to be sent back to me in the same condition as they received it.

     

    Once the group agree's to the costs I will accepts funds by snail mail or PayPal. I will post a running ledger of deposits and when we have the full amount we all agreed to I will ship to SSAC. Thoughts?

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    All, I would be willing to buy VihnZXT's header outright and send it to SSAC, but I would want some financial assistance for the trouble and risk. I figure if everyone kicks in some dough we will have great header template to build from.

     

     

    Okay well honestly, I haven't made much progress in the design. I've mostly been doing researchrying and tto figure out how to accomplish this. The flange was not difficult at all to draft in 3D, but as far as the runners' paths go, they are extremely difficult (at least for me) to draft in 3D. Plus, just drafting is not enough; we would have to describe each runner's 3D path in terms of bend radii and such so that SSAC could build it. It would be extremely difficult to ensure accuracy in describing a 3D path. So, at this point, I'm thinking we have a few options.

     

    First, I could contunue designing the header, but instead of 3D drafting, I would build an actual mockup that we could send to SSAC. This would take me a while to complete, and it sounds as if some of you here are on tight schedules. So this might not be the best option for everyone here.

     

    Second option would be to buy the header that VinhZXT has offered to us and have SSAC replicate it with certain modifications available to us (turbo flange, wastegate, etc.). This could probably be done in short order and would be better for those who are looking to buy in the very near future.

     

    I guess it really is up to the masses since, in order to have a successful group buy, we need to have a lot of people involved. So, everyone chime in and let it be known what you think should be done.

    Good Twin Turbo Manifold Design?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    What seriously unequal runner length? The manifold runners are about equal in length. What you are looking at is the equivalent of the "downpipe" of a single turbo application. The "seriously unequal" pipes connect to the exhaust housing after the turbine.

     

    It looks decent to me. I wish people would get off this equal length kick. The difference between the OEM manifold and ANY type turbo header is substantial. If you were designing an all out max power engine where 100% of every exhaust pulse is needed to achieve your power curve goals then yes, equal length is beneficial. Assuming the welds are good and the flanges seal, the big problem with this twin turbo header will be getting all the plumbing to fit. A/C is out for sure.

    Traction Issues with the RB's

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    This is exactly what I'm going to run on my LS1 Z, 245's out back and 225's in the front. I still have to roll the fenders when the car gets out of the shop.

     

    I'm also running 245/45-16 rears and 225/50-16 fronts. The tires are Bridgestone RE750's. I think the right tires can make all the difference. With 462ftlb torque I still have to drop the clutch to get the tires to spin. If I had a V8 with "insta-torque" I'm sure my experience would be different.

    Calling Air Conditioning Guru's

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Even using the special tools, it’s not easy…

     

    First, get the FSM and read the procedure in the AC section. The clutch hub must be removed using a special puller that most ac shops would have and maybe would let you borrow. I made mine by modifying a GM clutch hub puller by re-treading one end with the correct metric thread pitch.

     

    There are locknuts and shims that must be carefully removed and saved for re-use, and then the clutch pulley can be removed with a standard three-jaw puller. However, the clutch coil is attached with six Phillips head screws that have been “caulked†by the factory so they will not loosen. To remove them you can try an impact wrench but that usually just strips out the head of the screw. I generally end up removing them with a left-handed bit and drilling them out. Fortunately, Nissan supplies new Phillips screws with a new clutch, but I don’t know about the aftermarket guys.

     

    During the re-install you must set the correct clutch hub gap using shims. It sounds tough, but like changing rear wheel bearings, the first one you do will be the worst. After that they get simple (and I‘ve done about six or seven).

     

    Great info. Thanks Steve.

    Calling Air Conditioning Guru's

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

     

    I have a 77 280z that has the original R12 A/C. It works well except for a slow leak at the compressor front shaft seal. It takes a couple years to stop working but I'm sick of refilling it. The local A/C guy did a refill today but when I got home I noticed a fair amount of bubbles still in the sight glass. I called him to asked if he could add a touch more R12 and he said no problem but he said having the freon a bit low would reduce the pressure on the high-side a bit which might stop/postpone the leak. He also recommended using it more to lube the seals. I'm not sure I buy into this so I want to ask the question here. He would add more R12 for free didn't recommend it on such an old system. Is there any truth to this? Should I have enough R12 added so the bubbles are reduced?

     

    Also, is swapping my good A/C clutch to a new compressor a big problem? The rebuilt compressors without a clutch are half the price of ones with a clutch.

     

    P.S. I'd rather not convert to R134 unless I absolutely have to.

    Looking for a tuner in all the wrong places....

    in Wolf3D

    Posted

    I'm not sure why many people think the Dyno is so much safer for initial tuning :hs:. With a Mustang dyno (versus an inertial dyno) you can have a constant load across RPM ranges. This will help rough out the map in the least amount of time.

     

    Hugh is right on with this recommendation. Tuning for real world loads is always best. The Mustang dyno is one of the better dyno's if you cannot datalog SAFELY on the street. I prefer to use 4th gear when datalogging but the speed at peak RPM is usually way to fast. 3rd gear is good but it's doesn't load the engine as well.

    Plexiglass gauge lens

    in Interior

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

     

    I am installing my wideband O2 gauge where my clock used to be. The location work well for me but the red LED's are far too bright at night. To solve this I want to find a piece of dark Plexiglas and cut a circle to act as a nighttime lens. I know this sound a bit hokey but it's seems like it would solve my problem perfectly.

     

    Any idea where I could get a dark piece of plexiglas? Most shops want to charge big $$$$ for a whole sheet, sometimes as much as $50.00 - $100.00.

     

    IMG_3369_thumb.JPG

    Methonal Mixtures

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    You'd probably be best off asking coolingmist. I would run at least an m15 sized nozzle or nozzles to start.

     

    Thanks for the nozzle recommendation. I just called Cooling mist and I do need a valve for each "controlled" nozzle. I could use one valve for two nozzles but they would be not independently controlled.

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