sandman825

Hey guys, I have a 77' 280z that I bought from a fella who had swapped in a turbo L28 motor out of an 83' 280zx. Although he had drawings showing what he supposedly did to the wiring to make it work, I kept having issues and finally decided to just utilize a set of Weber DGV carburetors I have from an older project, hoping to just get the car moving and gain a little momentum with the project, which has had me pretty unhopeful for a while. I've since installed the DGVs, but am still running into issues on startup. Will carburetors work on an engine that was designed to be turbo? One of my buddies brought up the compression ratios used on the tubo motors and how the carburetors will not supply an ample amount of fuel/air to make the engine run.... I've searched and have been unable to find the info I'm looking for. I hope that doesn't mean its a completely obvious answer.... Help set me straight guys. Thanks for any info, Alex

That thread sounds just like the problems I'm having. I tried dropping the tank once before to clean it out, but I just put some...idk degreaser or something in there to swish around. After that I just shoved a vacuum in it to pick up the solids I could see. I'm guessing I'll have to try your more thorough cleaning method. Might as well as remove the electric fuel pump and see how that goes too. Thanks alot, I appreciate the help.

Hey guys I've been having a problem with my '73 with Weber DGVs thats really got me stumped. Its kind of a long story but I would really appreciate your help. It started out when the accelerator pumps stopped spraying, so whenever I stepped on the gas pedal the engine would just sputter out and die. It would idle fine once it got started though. So I figured it was clogged up with junk since the car had been sitting for a very long time. I took them apart and rebuilt them, replaced fuel filters, and also blew out the fuel lines with compressed air. This worked for a little while, but after a few starts of the engine, (Its not being driven, just getting worked on) the pumps quit spraying again. Soooo, I dropped the gas tank and removed the carbs to clean them out thinking maybe gunk was still getting pushed through the line from the tank and into the carbs. After re-installation I had the same effect as before. It worked for a short period then the accelerator pumps gave up again. I've repeated this process once more, dunking the carbs in those big cans of cleaner, but I'm still at square one. I read a thread by a guy having the same problem but for the life of me I can't find it again, sorry. But he solved his problem when he found out the coarse filter on the electric fuel pump was clogged with garbage. I've replace mine already but still the same problem. So do you think maybe I still have crap in my fuel system somehow? My uncle proposed that the aftermarket/universal electric fuel pump might be creating too much fuel pressure, filling the bowls too high and causing the floats to stick in the closed position. Does this sound plausible? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

So could you do this with the stock steering wheel? or does it only work with the aftermarket ones?

I decided to take a stab at this project as my first bit of fabrication on the car (although it needs much more). Had some free time with the brother, so we went for it. Used the oxy/acetyl torch to cut the flat pieces. It took some grinding to make them look nice, seeing as I wasn't too great with the torch. Had a little trouble drilling the holes, but we managed. After that, cut the piping with slight angles and beveled the edges. Set the bar in place, and tacked it in. Then pulled it out, and my brother welded it up. Sorry about the blurry cellphone picture: I'm pretty darn happy with it. Thanks for the directions MONZTER. What do you guys think?

Oh I thought it recirculated some of the exhaust fumes that arn't completely burnt back into the combustion chamber.... Thanks for the heads up on the belt

My '73 240z runs a little rough, and boggs down when you step hard on the gas. The other day I noticed that the air pump for the smog system had no belt on it, and that the hoses are in pretty bad shape. Furthermore, only one hose goes into the air pump, and it looks like there should be another on it that maybe draws air in from somewhere. I was looking at a diagram on Autozone.com, and I guess thats what I decided haha. But I have DGV carbs, so I'm not sure where that hose is supposed to go. But anyways, I've been searching around this forum, and I can't really find anyting about removing the smog equiptment. So I guess my question is, would me not having the air pump running, and not having that one hose attached cause problems for my engine and maybe be the cause of my slight lag? Would the old hoses maybe be causing some kind of vaccume leak? I checked a few parts stores, and none of them seem to know which belt I need for it. Does the belt for the smog pump just run from the pump to the crank? AutoZone suggested maybe a belt that did Air Conditioning and the smog, but I thought those two components seemed awfully far away to be on the same belt. Thanks in advance

Thanks guys, I was kinda leaning twoard the retractable ones mainly because of the convenience. But I mean, I'm 6'3" and I think I'll get taller....so would that make it any easier to reach things about the cabin if I was strapped in with a 4 point? I've also read that height can have an impact on the seats that you can get, so I've kinda ruled out the attractivley priced Corbeaus. Seeing as most sites I have been to don't have dimensions, is there any other brands that can be easily ruled out?

Okay, now trying not to be too trivial here, but I kinda need some advice on seats and belts. After searching and reading quite a few lengthy threads on saftey belts, I think I am a little overwhelmed with information. I got a 73' 240z about 2 months ago, and I def want to get some new belts, and maybe seats. It seems that many people on the site have 4 or 5 point harnesses in their daily driver. I was wondering if the stock belts were considered unsafe and whether the common concensus was to install 4 or 5 point safety harnesses in their place? I'm going to drive the car as a daily driver....hopefully do a little racing in street class, maybe, but thats later on. Obviously 4 or 5 points would be better than the stock, but is it nessescary? I want to do everything I can to have the car as safe as possible, and I know the car is old and is not quite up to todays safety standards, so the question is: Will new seats and harness really keep me that much safer? or are the stock belts good enough? Also, I'm going to be starting my second year of auto mechanics next fall, so you can kind of gauge my experience. It sounds like installing these harnesses is kinda and exact art. I know my teacher drag races with a camaro, but I don't know his experience w/ safety equiptment. So where else would be a good place to get some assistance in instalation? Thanks in advance for helpin out the new guy.