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jeromio

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Everything posted by jeromio

  1. I've got a line on a pair of Mark3 supras. Apparently one was a project and the other is the parts car. The guy wants $1500 for both. One has had the engine rebuilt with the head milled and the HKS gasket (and a port and polish and valve job apparently). The other is missing front sheetmetal and has a blown HG. So, my devious mind is thinking: get these (perhaps for a skonch less than asking price), drop the good motor and trans in my Z, then, if I have the energy left over, put the other engine together and put it in the good car to sell cheap, $1000 maybe, as a driver. Misc. parts for the swap (driveshaft, mounts, hoses, etc) probably cost about $350. But, at this point this is all simply devious conjecture. I've also found 2 280ZXTs for $500 each. But they're much farther away (6 hours in opposite directions vs 2 hours for the Supras). And they're both Autos, so I'd still have to find a 5speed. The ZXs do have the rear axles and calipers that I could use though. And it would be an easier swap. But, they'll need rebuilds - about $400 by my calc. Hrm. I likely won't do anything. But it's fun to ponder such possibilities.
  2. Well, I finally got the response to my inquiry about CV halfshafts. The following is not really indicative of their ability to deliver good parts at a good price (which I will agree is what's most important in the end), but I found their response to be, well, just really wierd: Whenever I fill in a website form, I always use the name of the site in the email address I give them. It's a habit - helps me to organize my Inbox and it's also a great anti-spam technique (for instance, when I started getting a bazillion "Get rich quick" emails addressed to ebay@jeromio.com, I added a bounce to that address - no more ebay spam). So, I get the reply back, $138 inclu. shipping. But, the guy is all upset that I've used zbarn@jeromio.com as an email address! He's talking about copyrights and trademarks and "legal action" (which he graciously will not pursue - I'm so relieved). Very wierd. Clearly knows nothing about the internet and is perhaps a little too tense in general. Also signed off with "God Bless", which creeps me out. I'm not comfortable with business/professional stuff mixing with religion. Makes me wonder if they're one of those companies that puts the bible verses on the invoices. At any rate, looks like my local price is cheaper anyway....
  3. Well, I haven't got them in hand, so I shouldn't jinks myself, but my fears of MSA may have been unfounded. They're gonna sell me a set of front braided hoses for $40+shipping. I have no idea who makes them, so I hope - They don't suck - They show up in a reasonable timeframe - They end up being the right part. We'll see.... ------------------ 240Z.jeromio.com
  4. So far only 2 vendors have responded. One said 6 weeks and $150! The other was 2 weeks and $130. This is for the complete car, which leaves me with extra hoses (I'm keeping the stock drums in the rear, at least for the forseeable future). So, I'm just ordering them from MSA...
  5. Who sells the Earl's stuff on this continent? I'm having no luck finding a vendor.
  6. Can anyone point me to a vendor for braided stainless hoses? I emailed Russell 2 weeks ago - no response. Earl's is English - don't feel like waiting (or paying) for transatlantic shipment. Summit and Jegs don't list any Nissan. Do I really have to go to MSA?
  7. I don't know all that much about the various GM offerings, but I do know that they make a 5sp auto. BMW puts it in their cars, believe it or not. They also make the auto transaxle that Porsche uses (at least they used to) in the 928. Doesn't the Corvette use a 5sp auto?
  8. That 4" lamp is perfect. They have some "beehive" lights in red and amber that would be the right size to serve as running and directionals. Don't think I dig the look of those though - too pointy. Their website is really hosed. They list some 2" lights, but the pictures don't match up. Waiting for code to compile, I drew this up (with PaintBrush - no graphics tools at work): (edit: odd how sometimes the forum accepts html, sometimes not...) Each light would need it's own lens. The cover would be clear Lexan. Too geachy? [This message has been edited by jeromio (edited January 30, 2001).]
  9. The idea is that although the stock companion flange works with the 240 stubs, the 280 stubs are stronger. Therefore the 280 companion flange must be adapted to bolt to the CV joint. Now that I mulled it over, If I do decide to go CV, I think I will just go with the 240 stubs. I really need to do the shafts now since my car is all in pieces - so that counts me out.
  10. I see on their site where they list "driveshafts" for various Z models. But it's unclear whether they mean drive shafts (trans to diff), or axle shafts (diff to wheels). If they are the latter (which makes more sense anyway), they list $150 for 280zx turbo. Do they have different (perhaps more current) prices over the phone, or were you able to talk their price down (or perhaps they gave you the hubs for free)? I wonder if they'd throw in the companion flanges for those CV axles. I guess I'll just have to call them.
  11. One other thing to consider: there are at least 2 cars on this site forsale. I've seen a few more at zcar.com. The thing about any auto project is that it will have terrible resale value. You can take advantage of this by buying someone else's project. Now, obviously there are dangers to this. You have to know what to look for (and what to look out for). But for the most part, if you consider that you're, for example, buying $8000 worth of parts (with the actual car being a fairly bulky "part") for maybe $5000, you'll have some room to redo a thing or two if you need to. For me the actual car was very difficult to find. I searched for almost 8 months and had to pay over $2K for a car that was far from perfect (box stock and rusty - 240Zs are rare in NC). If, for whatever reason, I had to sell my car, after putting about $2500 into it and many hundreds of hours, I'd be lucky to get $3K for it. That'd be pure tragedy for me, major windfall for the buyer.
  12. Those little Spitfires are so cool looking. Back in the 70s my uncle bought a bunch of them - wrecked, crapped out or whatever. Fixed them up, drove 'em around and then sold them. That was basically his job for a few years. Grassroots Motorsports did a Spitfire project recently. They put a rotary in it. It was set up for autocross (I think, lost my copy). They did quite a few chassis/suspension mods as well.
  13. To answer Roamer's question regarding swapping the entire ZX rear: ZXs have a completely different rear suspension As far as this topic goes, it's amazing to me how many widely differing swaps there are to consider for this car. I can't think of any other sports car that has as much variety of engines to choose from: L6, 24valve L6, OHC V6 & V8 (I've seen pics of a Z with a Lexus 32valve V8), pushrod V6 & V8, V12 (pic posted recently), turbos, super chargers, etc, etc. Very cool. As to the auto vs. manual thing, I definately prefer the manual (and I'm old too). They're more fun. I've never driven an auto that agreed with me. There always seems to be shifting when I don't want it, or not shifting when I do. I wonder if the GM 5 speed auto could be bolted to a GN? That might make it more palatable. Prob'ly expensive though. The GN seems to have an incredibly nice power to dollar ratio going for it. (I'm basically going to wander back and forth on this engine decision for the next year or so, piling on to which ever discussion about the virtues of various engines, being very fickle and wishy-washy. Prob'ly change my mind like 15 times or so.)
  14. When switching to the 280ZX calipers (with 300ZX rotors), what brake hoses work best? Should I just order a set of 280ZX hoses, or Do I need to get (or make?) a custom set?
  15. Obviously dealing with a company on the opposite hemisphere might be a challenge (can't imagine the shipping charges), but this company seems well equipped to provide an adapter for the Supra 6speed to Nissan L28: http://www.rodshop.com.au/ They've certainly got a loooong list of various adaptations (although I couldn't find Supra6 to L28 listed).
  16. And just to further clarify (over-clarify? ), as per Terry (http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html and Pete's (http://members.home.net/pparaska/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm) web pages, the 280ZX turbo Companion flange is compatible with the 240Z stub axle. Therefore, you need an adapter to use the 280Z stubs, but you do not if you retain the 240Z stubs. I hate to be redundant, but if I have mis-understood any of this information I definately need to know.
  17. The main reason that any car has a strut suspension is cost - much cheaper to manufacture. This is mostly due to assembly - one less part (the upper arm) to bolt on and one less thing to have to adjust. I failed to mention before that the stock MII's camber adjustment is highly prone to slippage. Granted, I have a very heavy truck, with a very heavy big block mounted directly over the xmember, but I cannot get the upper arms to stay put. My impact wrench is a beast too, but to no avail. There are better ways to allow for upper arm camber adjustment (heim jointed arms for instance).
  18. I am going seriously long term with my car. I'm doing everything up front - chassis, suspension, brakes - maybe even cage. I'm going to save the engine for the very last. But, I'm on the fence about the CV axles. I can get a set of used axles for $110. This seems really high, but that price took some haggling (and then I ended up not buying them which prob'ly pissed off the yard owner). In my area salvaged Zcars are really rare, and turbos are even more so. I've only found 2 and both are at the same yard. One place used the "network" to find me some for $100 each!! It's especially sucky because I could get a rebuilt set for $150 (incl. core charge), but this does no good since the companion flange is required also. So, I guess my questions are, how much are people paying for the shafts (with the companion flange)? Is my local price as ridiculous as it seems? And what's a good power handling estimate for the stock shafts (with solid Us)? I'd like the car to be able to handle whatever engine I end up getting (at least a year from now). I don't want my sporty Zcar to be slower than my truck (worked over, 10.5:1 429, if I can ever get it back on the road...), but I also don't imagine I'll be doing anything as extreme as Scottie with it. Probably peak 350hp and it'll never have slicks. I'd imagine these adapters won't go for less than $100 (likely more, right?). Ugh. I need more money. Two kids in private school equals no fun.
  19. I think there is at least one Aussie company that supplies bellhousings and etc. for using the Supra trans in various other cars. I have seen some write ups with the Supra 5sp replacing the Volvo 4+1 for instance. Here it is, Dellow Automotive. They also do a conversion for Jaguar 6s and 12s. I don't know that I've ever seen info on any Supra transmissions being adapted to Nissan though.
  20. I've been looking at the back of my jacked up Z sitting in my garage and contemplating doing something interesting, but sort of subtle with the tail lights. I really like the look of the Lexus tail lights (on their new "3 series" car and their dorky Camry/SUV). The sort of round reflector inside a clear case look. It wouldn't be too hard to replicate the basic shape of the current Z Car tail light lenses in plexi or lexan. I'd do a more basic, boxy kind of shape though - but still with the same approximate shape to retain the rear black valance piece. Anyway, inside these housings would live simple, round, reflector tail lights, or LEDs. A red tail light, a larger red brake light, an amber turn signal and then maybe one of those little micro fog lights as a reverse light. They'd have to be mounted in something shiny, like a piece of polished aluminum or stainless. Anyway, I have a looooong ways to go on my car until I can focus on the appearance. (crap - had to edit, html is off?) [This message has been edited by jeromio (edited January 23, 2001).]
  21. Well, as to the technical value of the Strut suspension, BMW has done beautifully with it. They are lauded as suspension experts. But, regardless, I think it would be very cool to see an A-arm Z Car and I for one encourage you to pursue it. Personally, If I had the dollars, I would do Heidt's Superide. But, and this is a definate advantage of going this route, there are at least 5 reputable shops that produce complete front suspension systems that you can choose from. The steering and brakes will be, I think, pretty easy to do. Borgeson sells a wide variety of couplers and etc. and I could make an SAE/Metric adapter myself in about 5 minutes. I do think it will take you more than a weekend to do this - but that's obvious. If you want the weight savings, you'd have to go to a tubular set up much like either Ron Jones' car or else SpencZ's car (whatever happened to him?). Otherwise, you need all that (heavy) sheetmetal for structure. But, I'd guess that even if you left the rest of the car alone, weight differences between the strut suspension and the double A-Arm one would be negligible, and would favor the aftermarket (nonZ) setup.
  22. This is an example of a totally custom susp. There are cheaper kits that let you provide some of the hardware from a salvage yard or other supplier (for instance, a C4 kit that has you acquire the a-arms, spindles and hubs from a yard). Most of these come in varying track widths - they mention a 56", narrow version. I'd bet anything that most of these shops would be willing to provide a custom length cross member for an extra fee. MII were all 4 on 4.5, but no one who does this swap uses the MII brakes. I have a MII cross member on my truck and I was able to get a 5 lug (Ford Granada) kit for it. I would agree that if you are considering the expensive aftermarket items for customizing the Z susp., you might be better off going this route and for similar dollars. I was a stupid teenager when I started my 55 Truck project. I got a clip from a junked MII and hacked it apart, stretched the xmember the requisite 4 inches, spent years getting various bits machined, etc. I would've saved lots of time and money in the long run had I simply bought a kit instead. (I'm still not done) Learning things the hard way sucks.
  23. jeromio

    Sr20 Z

    Most states have cut-offs for old cars. In NC, my 55 Ford and my 71 Z are exempted from a tail pipe test.I think 74 is the cut off year here. NC doesn't have a visual inspection either, so, it's really kind of a free-for-all with older cars. Very plus. I think CA has a similar old car cut-off for emissions testing. But, I'm also pretty sure they have a visual, so your OEM equipment has to be in place. Also, if you put a new engine in from a newer car, it may have to have the controls in place from that engine. My guess would be that installing an engine that isn't in the state's computers would generate some bureaucratic head aches. Unless you somehow "cheated" and maybe made it look like say, an 85 200SX engine or something?
  24. The Mustang II front suspension has achieved a very nice network effect. There are alot of companies out there creating variations on this. You can buy very nice dropin systems that include everything, arms, cross member, brakes. Some are very loosely based on MII - geometry and rack only. But, in the same approximate price range, there are systems based on C4 Corvette. I think if you were gonna do it, you would want one of the complete systems with adjustable tubular arms. These range from $2500 to $5000. Pick up a StreetRodder magazine and you'll see lots of ads for various front ends.
  25. This wouldn't be blittle as in Bryan Little, Datsun Z Car Garage, would it?
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