jeromio

It did sell. On it's way to England...

Sale is currently pending.

As requested, I finally put up some interior shots on the forsale page http://240z.jeromio.com.

Time to give up my Datsun to someone else. I just don't drive it much anymore and I'm now just too old for such an impractical vehicle . Owned it for almost 20 years and put 30K miles on it in various iterations. Lots of info on this particular car can be found in these forums. I have a little web page write up slash ad here: http://240z.jeromio.com. I have a punch list of what I would consider minor things to take care of - all relating to the interior. I've been chipping away at these over the past few weeks so there may be no todos left in the next month or 2. It does have fully functioning A/C. Seats are a bit worn. Wheels are kind of dated. If I were to keep it I would buy some 17x9 Rotas and install ZG flares. But probably better to leave these choices to the next owner of the car. As it is, it is fully functional and enjoyable. I would drive it across the country. I would arrive pretty worn out tho bc it rides like a skateboard and it's loud as f**k . Gets great fuel mileage tho. What is it: 1971 Datsun 240Z (well, that's what it started out as) What's in it: 1999 LS1, stock tune, stock manifolds, no cats, 2.25 into 3" w/ single stainless 3" muffler. T56 w/ McLeod clutch. 3.54 R200 diff. 83 ZXt CV Half Shafts (rebuilt). Chassis: Fully de-rustified, full subframe connectors. GC Coil-overs, 250lb springs, all poly bushings. Custom double poly front diff mount. Relocated front lower pivots. Sectioned struts, Tokico blue carts. Brakes: Front 84 Z31 vented discs. Rear 83 ZXt solid discs. 83ZXt master + booster. Cosmetic: Fancy Ford SVT Grabber Blue paint. Front poly airdam. Aluminum re-enforced fiberglass front bumper (which makes it functional). Location: Philadelphia, PA Price: $16,500 (or trades considered for more practical, manual transmission car such as Focus ST, Volvo C30, MazdaSpeed 3, etc.) (Also - I'll transfer ownership of http://facebook.com/datsunz to whomever buys the car. Has over 31K followers)

This is a really old thread. Actually came back to this site because the time has come to pass my Z on to the next enthusiast. Site is super different now...

Ok. Answered my own question. This is NOT a new end cap. Rather, the boot came apart (before I got it) and this is the part that keeps the boot in place. I tried putting it back together with no luck. Have to return it.

I think this article answers the phasing question: http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/ But I have a question about the "end-cap". My boots came with a replacement for this cap that fits over the input shaft. But I'm hesitant to try to remove the old one under the "if it ain't broke" principle and also bc it is not obvious how to remove the old one or how to re-install the new one. Anyone have insight?

?? http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=909799&postcount=208

Another no to parting out. I am biased (and perhaps naive), but I would presume you could get $30K+ for the car as a complete package. I would also suggest focusing some non-trivial energy on marketing. Hire a good photographer that specializes in automobiles to find a good background (maybe a race track), take the photos and retouch/photoshop them. Consider an auction service and/or placing ads in the high-end "rich-boy" listing mags. Maybe a consignment in an exotic dealership a major city like Miami.

The diff in that car is an R200 and the shafts are not specific to the diff. That is, the diff could accept 'normal' U-jointed shafts. No reason to sell the whole thing as a package. The shafts can be used with any other S30 or S130 R200 ('75-'83).

Hardest part of this job is the filler hose. I would cut and replace the various vent lines. They tend to be really dry and brittle anyway. Shall we bet on where the leak is? My guess is that it's right where the spare tire well touches the tank at the 3 o'clock position. It's a quick fix if you have a welder.

How much grease should be used to pack the bearings? Packed full, or allow for some space? Any recommendations on a type of grease?

Or maybe just a parts list and some rough measurements. Actually, if you could gather up the parts, do a line tracing on some craft paper and package it up, I'd buy it. "Cut here, length of square tubing cut at this angle, weld here, bracket welded here, drill here...etc" I have an extra set of control arms and I could make my own leveraging your research and parts sourcing (which I've found to be a PITA). You could add sufficient mark-up to make it worthwhile.

Front tire, as in a blow-out? Or was there some suspension issue?

YOu say "bad" downshift, but really any downshift is going to push the nose of the diff down with considerable force. Not as extreme as accel on launch, but certainly a significant force that the mount is going to see over and over. I also wonder about the added ease of diff R&R w/out the diff x-member. Two bolts instead of 4? Added exhaust clearance is definitely a plus though.

My car is back up on jackstands and I am doing massive amounts of chassis work. Mostly rust abatement. My front chassis "torque boxes", which lie below the vent drains, are totally rusted out on both sides. In the dreaded "while-I'm-at-it" death spiral, I am pondering an alteration to my mount scheme. I too have the K and I have almost 100% of the tower mounts on the arms of the K, using the stock fbody motor mounts. I do have some latereal "stabilizer" arms that tie to the upper part of the (re-enforced) frame rail to squelch any side to side movement. Trouble is that these arms will interfere with headers - I have stock FBody manifolds on now. I like your variation and it shouldn't be too hard to adapt to it from what I have now. You said that you used "SBC to LS adapter plates". Which rubber (or poly) mounts did you use: stock LS1 fbody style or SBC units? What did your passenger side end up looking like - the same SBC adapter plates used? If possible, I would love to see more pics of the headers and how they fit - I think my K is almost identical to yours, but I can't imagine headers fitting - there's barely enough room for the 2 1/4" pipe off the manifold on the pass side to run betw frame rail and starter as it is.

PCM looks odd - looks much thinner than mine? Where are the fins? What year is the motor? The stock Delphi ECM is normally mounted in the engine bay - it can handle the heat. You will obviously need to protect those wires though.

I had this exact same problem on my s30. Accel it would turn one way, deccel it would turn the other. And even mild accel would peel one wheel. Hard deccel would skid one wheel. I thought it was the diff. Turned out to be a loose bolt on the front of the driver's side rear arm. Well, loose as in no longer there. Bushings were still on, but obviously the arm was no longer tightly secured. JT1 mailed me his spare boltand washer (not available for order anymore) and I was on my way.

Don't go by the website - it's out of date. You have to call them I called, checked stock on the fender patch panel. Said they had it, gave me the price, I ordered - part was here 3 days later.

Harbor freight bender is for pipe, not tubing. It will not work on DOM or other tubing you would use for a cage. (BTW, he did say this was for a cage, not exhaust)

My plan is to engrave my name on the shafts, along with corresponding "RIGHT" and "LEFT" labels and then take them to a local shop to be rebuilt...

Ha! It's probably the same one they sent me....

No problem with the clutch. I have the hydraulic throw-out and a 1" master. However, the T56 is not a smooth box. I've driven dump trucks with better shift feel.

Those tc rods look like technotoy - are the LCAs also?

For the sake of my savings account, please try and make it unreasonably expensive...