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About 280ztracked

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/29/1972

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  • Location
    Birmingham, AL

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  1. The picture you have posted is the steering column. I need the end that attaches to it via a rubber connector and then attaches to the steering rack on the crossmember. It is approximatly 13" long and 5/8" in diameter. One end has a small universal joint with a spline and the other end has a tee with 2 bolt holes in it to attach to the rag joint on the steering column like the one in the picture. matthew
  2. looking for the steering rod and splined coupler and shaft, the part from the steering column rag joint to the steering rack. This is a 1974 260z rack but most all S30 racks are the same. Please contact if you have one for sale. matthew
  3. I think the main difference in the 79-81 MC is that they have front and rear reservoirs. I think the 82-83 MC has only one reservoir. I don't see why the later models wouldn't work the piston inside is the same size (15/16"). Physics would be the same.
  4. I need a brake booster check valve and hoses that connect to manifold and booster.
  5. I am looking for the steering linkage that connects to the rubber bushing on the steering column to the steering rack. I need the rod and the ends that attach to the rack and bushing.
  6. As the ad says looking for valence to complet the front end on a 280z.
  7. I wish I were able to make the drive I certainly would I am not needing the stub axles I just need the tube. I am going to send them to a buddy who is going to make me some caliper brackets.
  8. I am looking for a set of rear strut tubes from a 280z or late model 260z (larger tube diameter).
  9. You can buy the consumables for the cut 50 on ebay. Most of the sellers have a 20 piece set.
  10. I have a adjustable one but I do not have the handle, it is a Hurst and is in great shape ($50+ shipping). You could probably find the knob and handle to go with it in summit. I also have the original shifter that came in the factory T5 in a 85 Camaro but no knob($35 + shipping). Matthew
  11. I dont think mixing the two would look bad at all. Shoot Doublexl240 a message I know this is the setup he is using. I have the 280yz full kit and I love it. The IMSA rears are just a bit more bubbly but they have the same amount of flare to them.
  12. I have the Cut 50. Bought it from a company off of Ebay. Most of them will run 220v. Try to find one with Toshiba Mosfets in the description. Both of mine have them and when I was purchasing a guy told me to get them because they were better form some reason.
  13. I have had 2 of them and they cut but not the thickness that they say they cut. I use them to cut sheet metal up to 3/16" easily. It will cut 1/4" and 1/2" but you need to run them on 220v and only cut very short distances. The duty cycle is a lot slower than other machines. Like I said I cut sheet metal a lot it cuts it like butter. The metal has to be very clean no paint and no rust. I would buy another one if these gave out. I have had one for 2 years and its still working. Give it a good work out for the 1st 15days if its gonna blow it will do it then.
  14. I have one and the defroster works but I am in Alabama.
  15. I have experience with the Everlast 50 Plasma. I have also have experience with a Miller 50amp. They both cut well. The price difference is the big difference (Miller+ $$$$). Most people say the chinese won't hold up to extensive use. I must have gotten a good unit because I have literally cut 5 miles of metal. The duty cycle is about the same on both units I use I have actually cut up to 1/2" steel with the 50 amp chinese model but you have to use it in short runs when maxing out the amperage. One very important thing to remember is to always use some sort of air dryer or water trap on the un
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