280ztracked

The picture you have posted is the steering column. I need the end that attaches to it via a rubber connector and then attaches to the steering rack on the crossmember. It is approximatly 13" long and 5/8" in diameter. One end has a small universal joint with a spline and the other end has a tee with 2 bolt holes in it to attach to the rag joint on the steering column like the one in the picture. matthew

looking for the steering rod and splined coupler and shaft, the part from the steering column rag joint to the steering rack. This is a 1974 260z rack but most all S30 racks are the same. Please contact if you have one for sale. matthew

I think the main difference in the 79-81 MC is that they have front and rear reservoirs. I think the 82-83 MC has only one reservoir. I don't see why the later models wouldn't work the piston inside is the same size (15/16"). Physics would be the same.

I need a brake booster check valve and hoses that connect to manifold and booster.

I am looking for the steering linkage that connects to the rubber bushing on the steering column to the steering rack. I need the rod and the ends that attach to the rack and bushing.

As the ad says looking for valence to complet the front end on a 280z.

I wish I were able to make the drive I certainly would I am not needing the stub axles I just need the tube. I am going to send them to a buddy who is going to make me some caliper brackets.

I am looking for a set of rear strut tubes from a 280z or late model 260z (larger tube diameter).

You can buy the consumables for the cut 50 on ebay. Most of the sellers have a 20 piece set.

I have a adjustable one but I do not have the handle, it is a Hurst and is in great shape ($50+ shipping). You could probably find the knob and handle to go with it in summit. I also have the original shifter that came in the factory T5 in a 85 Camaro but no knob($35 + shipping). Matthew

I dont think mixing the two would look bad at all. Shoot Doublexl240 a message I know this is the setup he is using. I have the 280yz full kit and I love it. The IMSA rears are just a bit more bubbly but they have the same amount of flare to them.

I have the Cut 50. Bought it from a company off of Ebay. Most of them will run 220v. Try to find one with Toshiba Mosfets in the description. Both of mine have them and when I was purchasing a guy told me to get them because they were better form some reason.

I have had 2 of them and they cut but not the thickness that they say they cut. I use them to cut sheet metal up to 3/16" easily. It will cut 1/4" and 1/2" but you need to run them on 220v and only cut very short distances. The duty cycle is a lot slower than other machines. Like I said I cut sheet metal a lot it cuts it like butter. The metal has to be very clean no paint and no rust. I would buy another one if these gave out. I have had one for 2 years and its still working. Give it a good work out for the 1st 15days if its gonna blow it will do it then.

I have one and the defroster works but I am in Alabama.

I have experience with the Everlast 50 Plasma. I have also have experience with a Miller 50amp. They both cut well. The price difference is the big difference (Miller+ $$$$). Most people say the chinese won't hold up to extensive use. I must have gotten a good unit because I have literally cut 5 miles of metal. The duty cycle is about the same on both units I use I have actually cut up to 1/2" steel with the 50 amp chinese model but you have to use it in short runs when maxing out the amperage. One very important thing to remember is to always use some sort of air dryer or water trap on the unit. Moist air makes a very messy cut, and the metal has to be very clean no rust. In conclusion by the chinese model if you aren't cutting thick metal that often. If your cutting sheet metal to 3/16" you will be cutting like a hot knife through butter.

Are you talking about the seal plates? I have a set that is in good shape but I think they are silver in color and are made from aluminum.

JohnC nice link. I wish I had have had that link before I did my frame rail on the 280zx. I know it was overkill with the 3x2 but I had it in the floor of the shop and het lets just say I wanted to get out on the track. I will use that link you posted next time. No need to wory about my frame rails then, LOL. Speed anytime man. Keep me posted love to see some pics when you begin.

I think the larger tube would be overkill. If you plan to use the rectangle tubing you are adding a lot more metal than was orignially there. I just finished doin this to my 1979 280zx and I left the tube complete as a tube. the 2x3 worked great and made it very rigid. I have been out on the track recently with it and can feel the stabilty that it added. I am not running the horsepower that you are but I can tell it could take a tremndous amount. PM me if you have any questions i would be glad to talk to you. Matthew

I have one of these benders and have 1.75 die and the 1.50 die. The build of this product is great. It works very well, a very tiny amount of grease on the die works well. This is a very simple and very easy to use product. When bending the main hoop you may find that a tubing indexer is a great tool to have. It allows you to have the bend in a perfect plane to each other. I found the indexer on a rock crawling web site.

I use the Harbor Freight guns a lot. The cheap $20-30 guns when dialed in work well with primer. I have a Binks and a devilbiss but for the money I cant for the life of me se what the difference is between the HF gravity gun and the Binks. I even shot gel coat for fiberglass with the HF models. You just got to take the time to set them up properly and clean them well.

I got a brake pedal for a 1974 260z that I would be willing to part with. I am pretty sure that it will fit up to a 78. let me know if you think that it will work for you. what you got for trade? matthew

It sounds like it might be a coil pack. You need to do a power balance test. Unplug each individual connection to the coil packs one by one while car is running. the Z32 is bad about the wiring harness is bad about going bad. This is caused by heat in the engine bay. Also you can check the onboard computer to see if it has stored a code it will help you narrow the search down.

I think I have the pulley that you want I will get you pics in a few min.

Looking for a used set of ZG fender flares. Cracked or broken ok. Matt

Rent a bottle if you have too instead of buying one. Once you use gas you'll never go back.