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Tomzern

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About Tomzern

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  • Location
    Norway
  1. Thanks for the offer, but I am located in Norway so It's cheaper to find one here
  2. Well I guess I am a cowboy then I just handed my engine mechanic the block and one of the pistons and told him to make it fit. It's my stupid fault of course. Should have done more research, but now it's done. At least it's good to know that there are F54 blocks that are thick enough. I will get it sonic tested and just take it from there. Thanks guys!
  3. Hi! Sooo, I have an ongoing stroker build and just AFTER I got my F54 block resurfaced and bored to 89mm I found out that the best block for an 89mm overbore is the N42 and the F54 is a rather terrible choice for this. Wish I would have found this out before I bored it, but it's already done Now I am stuck with a finished F54 89mm block and I am unsure of what to do next. This engine is going to be a street engine and not a 10000rpm race engine. Is there anyone here who is running an F54 based stroker? Will it almost certainly fail? Any constructive input
  4. I did the swap yesterday and can confirm that the only difference between the stock 1970 240Z smog manifold and the W48 manifold is the bolt pattern on the outlet flange. Since I didn't find any info on this subject myself, I might as well make a little guide now if anyone else wants to do this Here is a couple of comparison pics of the two types: Stock on top, W48 bottom The W48 manifold has larger runners compared to the stock one. Don't know you gain anything out of it though. So here is how I solved it. on the W48 manifold the bolts on the outlet flang
  5. Hi! I have a 1970 240Z with the stock exhaust manifold with emission tubes in it. It is in a bad shape and I think it is leaking when heated up (sounds like a leak from one cylinder). I have a stock manifold from a newer L24e engine with the N47 head, and I am wondering if this manifold will fit the exhaust system on my car? I know it bolts right up to the engine, but is the outlet flange in the same position? It is marked W48 and looks alot like the 240Z manifold but without the emission tubes. I have tried searching for this everywhere, but can't seem to find an answer.
  6. Sorry, I know the rods are forged . I meant H-beam rods for added strength, but the original L24 rods are strong enough? It would be nice to rev it past 8000 rpm
  7. I am in norway, so it's a little different here. Not many Z's here, especially not many stroker builds Good to hear Mack! Anyway, I just made another good deal! I asked for an L28 in the Patrol owners club here in norway, and found a guy that had swapped out his L28 with an LD28 So I am buying his L28 and he's taking my LD28 + about $80 extra as payment for the L28. I am of course keeping the crankshaft and also the intake manifold from the LD28. So then I have the LD28 crank, an F54 L28 block, and three heads to choose from. N42 from the L28, N47 and E88. I gu
  8. A bit more info about my standpoint and thoughts: As of now I have a stock L24 with the E88 head in the car. It runs good and I plan to use this until I have the 3.1 stroker ready with everything. I also have another L24 which is the original numbermatching engine with the E31 head (the car is a low-vin 1970 Z ). This engine is currently being restored to perfect original condition and will be a "backup engine". The end goal is to have an L31 with megasquirt in the car and the numbermatching engine as a "backup" in good condition. The L24E bottom end needs to be bored beca
  9. Hi! This weekend I bought a complete LD28 engine and a complete L24e with a N47 head. I was only going to buy the LD28 but the guy also had the L24e so I asked him what he wanted for it, and ended up paying 200 bucks for the lot:) SOO that calls for a stroker build. I took out the V07 diesel crank and it is in perfect shape! Are there any other parts from the LD28 that I should keep? I have read about converting the LD28 intake, but is there anything else worth saving? What about the L24e? It came with the intake and electronic distributor. How is this intake pe
  10. Quite alot has happened since last update. I mounted the engine that came with the car, hoping to get it to run good enough to use it this season, but I could not get it to run on all 6 cylinders even with good spark on every plug. A compression test revealed ZERO compression on cylinder number 4, so I lifted the head off and both the head, and cylinder no. 4 did not look good. It looked like there had been water in the cylinder for a long time because there were small pores and marks on the wall. Some pics: Head came off: Bottom end went out: Since I have an
  11. Thank you for your answer! I have been thinking about buying new molded foam inserts for my seats as well, but then I read about poor fitment and so on, so I just decided to go with the old ones. I am sure many upholstery shops in the US will redo them cheaply, but the problem is that I live in norway, where nothing is cheap That is also why I want to buy the covers from exotikleather on eBay. Because they offer an affordable shipping alternative.
  12. Hi! I have a 240Z which had 260Z seats in it when I bought it, but they need new upholstery. I want the 240Z style upholstery, but I am not sure if it will fit my seat frames. Does anyone here know? I am thinking of ordering from these guys on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-Nissan-240Z-260Z-Synthetic-Leather-Seat-Covers-/171190749454?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbc3890e&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Has anyone here any experience with the quality on these covers? Regards, Tomzern
  13. I went with the RB20 because the guy I bought the car from here in norway had a good running RB20 package available so I got the car and the engine for a very reasonable price. I am pretty sure it will also be easier to get it streetlegal because of reduced displacement compared to the original engine. Of course an RB26 would be even better, but I think the RB20 will be a lot of fun with about 350-400hp in a car this light=)
  14. Well pictures tend to lie a bit when it comes to finish. The car was "restored" in the US a while before it came to norway. It has been repainted in the original color and when you look up close it is'nt really that nice. I suspect alot of bondo underneath the paint around the rear wheel arches among other places, and the rear bumper senter piece is painted with shitty black spraypaint. The rear bumper sides are covered with chrome finish tape (!).. The reason why I have bought a 70-model is because of the regulations for modifying a car here in norway. The rules changed in 1971, so it i
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