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About adam.

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  1. Gday all, Hope you guys could give me an idea into what could be happening. Bit of background, I have a '73 240z running an L28 with a 280zx electronic distributor, MSD 6A ignition, stock tacho with MSD tacho adaptor/booster. My issue is the tacho fluctuates with every indicator flash, drops dramatically when the headlights are on (relays installed) or if my heater blower is on. Note, driving/revving does not change, purely a tacho reading issue. I have just bought a new battery and had a 280zx internally regulated alternator installed about two years ago. A
  2. So the solution to my lean hesitation with the #55 pilots installed was to simply adjust the pilot screws/idle adjustment screws out another half turn or so.. Putting them around 2.25 turns out from full lean (ideal is 2 turns +/- half a turn). With the #55s installed, 29mm fuel float level and 2.25 turns of the pilot screws, the car cruises with an AFR of 13.5, idles rich around 12.5-13, but light acceleration is now smooth being around 13:1 AFR and creeping up to about 14:1 in second gear. Although idle is a tad rich, drive ability has improved which I guess is more important in
  3. Yeah, I am aware of the float adjustment as well as the accelerator pump adjustment screws but if I must be completely honest, I thought the pump adjustment was more to do with its 'load' or amount of fuel it releases, not duration of its fuel release. I will have to have an experiment with that though to confirm. Been too busy with work to really have a play.
  4. What confuses me is that it may run lean on acceleration but it will run rich at 12.5:1 AFR on cruise.. I will need to double check timing, float levels, throttle position etc.
  5. Is that so? Interesting because I did not know that.. It is leaning out while my foot has been down for a few moments. I will have to experiment with it also.
  6. I will need to double check using a different timing light as the one I'm using is a bit dodgy actually. And I'm running a 280zx electronic distributor. I don't think increasing the pump will do much as the lean is a few seconds after the throttle is pushed. I will need to have a play around with the float levels I think. And it may be hard to tune now but that satisfaction of having done it will be worth it. I could have easily paid someone to set these up but money can't buy experience.
  7. Update: I checked the timing and I don't know how you guys do it but it seems like the motor is reving too fast to tell what exactly the timing is at 3krpms. I have received #55 and #57.5 idle jets, the #55s are still too lean to even accelerate, while the #57.5s have a cruise AFR of 12.5 and acceleration is in the 13s - 14/15 which cause stuttering (around 2.3-3krpms). Idle is about 13. Any ideas what could cause this lean spot causing the stutter? I cannot get my head around it. I have tried checking timing and best I can do is 15 degrees at idle. It seems like I can't get cruise any lea
  8. OK, noted Steve, regarding adjustment of floats for idle jet. And you can definitely run the car without the mains installed. There has been a delay in ordering and receiving of the new jets so no new information to be mentioned. It should hopefully be here by early next week. I have access to a dyno at work again which will help dial everything in. And I think my OER emulsion tube and jets should do for the moment! Will get too expensive otherwise
  9. Hahaha it's all part of the fun though, isn't it.. Building a car, you're in it for the journey, not the finished product. And I have seen/read that method of tuning. You first remove the air corrector, emulsion tube, and main jet assembly, block or remove the accelerator pump and drive with just the idles. Note the AFRs at cruise and adjust float levels to up to richen the mixture or down to lean it out. If you cannot achieve a good AFR with the range of float settings, either go up or down a jet size depending on which way you need to go. It is only then that you reinstall
  10. Yep, that makes perfect sense. So when I was running the #50s, they may have idled on their own, but only because I 'turned out' too much, using fuel intended for the progression holes on idle. Therefore when I got to rev the motor, it dies due to running lean. Excellent. Thanks for explaining that.
  11. I have been mentioning 'full turns' which I think is pretty obvious as being 360 degrees, but I understand your frustration. My 'turns' are 360 degrees. And the main question of this thread was whether a #60 - #50 idle jet was big. I wasn't sure whether the AFRs reacted the same as say going from a #140 main jet to a #130. I thought since the #60 was producing AFRs of 11/11.5 at cruise, maybe the #50s should run and produce 13/14 AFRs (and maybe the #55 and #57.5 would produce in between around 12 and 13). But my result was that they didn't run at all and I wasn't sure whether tha
  12. Okay, just another quick question.. With the #60s installed, my acceleration is now a tad lean in the high 13s range, causing hesitations and misses, but cruise is still rich at 11.5-12. I am only suffering from the lean acceleration when take off is very slow, in the progression port area. Solution? I think I might need a weber idle jet.. Thanks
  13. Hmm interesting.. I have an old SK-Racing manual here and they mention that it only needs to be unscrewed 3/4-1 full turn from full lean. I would have thought OER basically being the newer model carbs of SK-Racing, it would have been the same. But at the same time, depending on which Weber DCOE model you have, they also require 2.5 turns. Newer models required 2.5 and older models require 1.5 or vice versa.. So it might depend on the actual carbs? I will try the #50s again with a the mixture screws out a little more and see if it makes a difference. As for OER idle jets, I have not
  14. From about 3krpms, afrs increase to ~12.5-13 which is spot on. I have not yet checked to see what they are above 5krpms.
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