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Fauxre

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Posts posted by Fauxre

  1. I decided on an inexpensive stereo for the time being. Basically all I need is a radio for a ball game and a way to play my ipod music. I chose an inexpensive Boss unit with a pop-out ipod dock... no CD/DVD player. Once it arrived, I immediately saw that in the stock mounting configuration, my ipod would hit the plastic heater surround. I modified both the console and the surround to move the stereo forward.

     

    post-4015-095062400 1346557889_thumb.jpg

     

     

    It will even take an iPhone now.

  2. Here's the exhaust. Pretty simple. Unbolt at the collectors and one more at each muffler, and the whole thing drops straight out. And everything tucks nicely in the center tunnel with no ground clearance issues.

     

    55408d1346033570-does-qualify-hot-rod-tankshot.jpg

     

    55409d1346033578-does-qualify-hot-rod-trannyshot.jpg

     

    The pipes extending through the valance are just wedged into the muffler outlets, so I can play with some tips.
    biggrin.gif

     

    55407d1346033564-does-qualify-hot-rod-butshot.jpg

     

    But now that engine noise is low, the fuel pump noise is very loud. I'll need to deal with that at some point.
    frown.gif

  3. It's not 'just you'. The Datsun based kits look much taller than the original GTOs. And that's just fine with me, since my intent was to make my own custom car... not a replica. The Velo Rossa is really just inspired by the curvaceous Ferrari. Boy from Oz is doing a 250 GTO that is much truer to the originals. Here are a couple of his pics from the GTO Owners thread that depict the different profiles and some of BfO's work to create a true replica. His attention to detail is amazing.

     

     

    post-308-083302200 1293146985.jpg

    post-1266-096696300 1304416891.jpg

    post-1266-085465500 1304416919.jpg

     

    I don't know much about the original 250 GTOs, but it's my understanding that they were all hand built, giving them each their own unique set of dimensions anyway. No two alike. I don't even know if they all had the same wheelbase.

     

    Dropped mine off at the muffler shop today... she'll be purrin' by Wednesday.

  4. After hours of trial and error, the gear shift lever is in it's final position. A small metal plate is welded to the shortened shift post. The gear shift lever (from a Datsun 510) is bolted to the plate. The lever has flat sides from the bottom threads to just below the bend. If it starts to spin in the bolt hole, I'll add some flat stock on top of the plate to keep it straight.

     

     

    post-4015-035703600 1345177280_thumb.jpg

     

     

    It looks pretty simple, but it took forever to get the plate angled just right. Too much twist one direction and the lever was hitting the console in 1st,3rd and 5th gears. Too much in the other direction and I'm knocking my drink out of the cup holder in 2nd, 4th and reverse.

  5. Started to move the gear shift lever to the center of the console opening today.

     

    post-4015-064536200 1344908852_thumb.jpg

     

     

    The old lever is made up of an outer hollow tube attached by rubber to an inner solid steel post. Using my small grinder with a cut off wheel, I cut off the upper portion of the tube just above the rubber, split the lower portion and rubber down to the post and peeled each section off with a screwdriver.

     

    post-4015-039214900 1344908854_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Scraped most of the remaining rubber off with a utility knife...

     

    post-4015-035728200 1344908855_thumb.jpg

     

     

    and ground the post clean with the grinder and a 3M flappy pad.

     

    post-4015-036510200 1344908856_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Back in the car, I'll do some eyeballing to get the right angle before welding an adapter plate to the post.

     

    post-4015-048185800 1344908857_thumb.jpg

  6. More minor progress.

    Found these generic power window switches here, Express Parts.

    post-4015-040753900 1344821462_thumb.jpg

     

     

    They were cheap, easy to wire and fit nicely in the center console.

    post-4015-039464100 1344821463_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Gathered together all the seat belt pieces for reinstallation. Problem!! The unibody reinforcement interferes with the original mounting locations on the door side. Not confident that I can make modifications to the original units, so I guess I'll be looking for after market solutions.

  7. Hey Pete,

     

    I'm gearing up to order a set of panels, probably in a few weeks. If I read this thread correctly, you're in San Jose? I'm about an hour and a half away. Just curious... how much lead time would you need to make a set, if I were to pick them up.

     

    Wes

  8. Where’s the satisfaction in that?

     

    Where’s the 1000s of hours of your life wasted.

    The 1000s of dollars wasted.

    The abuse from your wife – see previous.

    The frustration at having to redo something because you took a wrong measurement.

    The utter frustration of redoing again because you actually got the measurement right first time but stuffed up the calculations.

     

    Where’s the garage full of stuff you bought but later realized you didn’t need.

    The physical scars from the lacerations you sustained when the wrench slipped off the nut.

    The hole in the garage panel where you threw the wrench – see previous.

    The emotional scar when you realize you’ve taken on a project you can’t finish

     

    Where’s the…

     

    Sorry, it's time for my medication.

     

    I believe I've experienced all of these situations. But my favorite is the ratio of hours I spend contemplating how to do something ... compared to the minutes it takes to actually do it!

  9. Okay. So, after what amounts to three full days using the "trial and error" technic, I've finally installed the drivers side regulator. Rather than explain what I actually did during this arduous process, I think it would be better just to post pics of the final result, with a little commentary. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

     

    I compared the curved path of the Camry actuator track with the door's outer guide track. It doesn't take much force to bend the actuator track to match the guide track. In fact the actuator track is so thin it would be very easy to put a kink in it if pushed on too hard.

    post-4015-083927800 1342399401_thumb.jpg

     

    Cut off the old mounting brace. It's unnecessary and won't allow the track to fit.

    post-4015-052224800 1342399403_thumb.jpg

     

    Using the two videos of operating windows in this thread, I approximated the actuator tracks upper mounting point. Getting all three tracks (actuator, outer guide and inner guide) to line up took forever. Here's the final positioning.

    post-4015-008465300 1342399400_thumb.jpg

    The window frame attached to the actuator. There's a nut spacer between the window frame and actuator. The Z bracket will be replaced with one that doesn't require a spacer.

     

     

    post-4015-023594700 1342399398_thumb.jpg

    I cut too much sheet metal, and had to add the strap in order to mount the motor.

     

    I ground the lip down on the top of the window frame in order to clear the back of the motor during operation.

    post-4015-046350100 1342399405_thumb.jpg

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Here's how it turned out.

     

    Power Windows

     

     

     

    Hopefully the passenger side will be easier.

  10. Keep us updated! I've been hoping for a lightweight affordable electric option to be found.

     

    Are they from the front or rear doors? What controls are you planning on using?

     

    These are from the front doors. Haven't decided on switches yet.

  11. I know it's been a while since anyone has posted here, but I'm finally in a position to start this conversion on my 260Z based Velo Rossa project.

    I picked up '94 Camry regulators today at the local PickNPull. Under $80 with warranty.

     

    post-4015-074797800 1341886171_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Bench tested... both work perfectly and seem very quiet.

     

    I don't have a time frame to complete this project, but will try to post any significant progress as I go.

  12. The VR left the garage today under it's own power since... well, ever!

     

    I spent the last couple of weeks working out the ride height and desired spacing of the wheels within the tire wells. The front wheels got 1" spacers which lets me use the Rota center caps, avoiding the ugly dust caps protruding through the center holes. The rears needed 2" spacers to allow the tires to fill out the wells.

    I really like the stance.

    Unfortunately, pushing the wheels out created a couple of clearance issues with the body, when turning. Easy fix. A little trimming to the corners of the tilt bonnet and to the edge of the inner blockoffs I made for the fenders, and everything is in the clear.

     

    I'm still waiting to install pipes and mufflers, but I just couldn't wait to see if she'd actually drive. So, with more than a little apprehension unsure.gif, I fired her up and backed her down the driveway into the street. I took a couple of laps around the court and to the corner and back. And although the total distance travelled was probably less than 1K feet, it was exhilarating.

    There were no loud bangs, no rubbing noises, no strange vibrations and none of those tell tale smells indicating a major problem. Once back in the garage, I did find two small leaks. Fuel, from a fitting not completely tight and oil, from the pan-to-timing cover seal.

     

    I was feeling so good, that I took a few pics to commemorate her first day in the sun. And with the bright light, I was even able to approximate a metallic paint finish.

     

    post-4015-046084700 1341298369_thumb.jpg

    post-4015-065800900 1341298257_thumb.jpg

     

     

    All in all... one great 'feel good' day.

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