leecheater

Like the title of my add. Looking for a used Mallory Unilite Distributor, model 4563901 in good condition. Send me a PM or an e-mail to this address leecheater@hotmail.com

dj, the latest: I drove her over to Midwest Motor Sports and talked to them about my issues. I have not been hearing pinging but the car is loud and so I wanted to check if I was doing it correct. I listen carefully when I have her in high gear going up a decent sized hill. Lug her just a bit. I can honestly say I don't hear it pinging. Perhaps my ears arn't trained well for this, but I am fairly confident with running a combo 110 octane combined with 93 octane she isn't pinging. We did talk a bit about timing and I will be adjusting it towards a more stock setting. The biggest news that really sucks is that yesterday we got our first snow here! Many years we can drive cars with sticky tires into November. I have the Z parked in my attached garage as I have been driving her to work each day. The forecast is not looking good so until we get a warmer non freezing day, she will sit. I have been compiling my list of winter upgrades. 1. Figure out this compression issues. I am also seriously thinking of biting the bullet, remove the head and look to see what's going on in there. Might be easiest solution, plus the valves need adjusting anyway, so if I have to take the valve cover off, might just do it. I have talked to the guy who converts carbs to e-85 and may go that route. E-85 is so cheap here it's hard to argue with 100+ octance at $2.30 a gallon 2. Install the RT differential mount 3. New wheels, looking for a set of light 15" 4. Install limited slip differential 5. Minor touch up paint work 6. Continue to work on my exhaust smell in cabin with windows open issue. I have reduced it by 85% or so by installing a new inner shift boot, and plugging several small holes I found. 7. Pull off wiper assembly and clean her up a bit. 8. Fabricate the front grill so I actually have working turn signals. Going to be a long winter. I should be able to concentrate a lot on the Z, because the Supra is doing pretty well other than some tweaking of the interior and getting paint touched up.

Xnke, thanks for looking at this thread. The head is an E88. No idea if it is from a 71-73 or if it is from a 74-off a 260z. I understand the 240Z e88 heads had smaller valves then the ones off the 260z.. The block is N42. Here is a bit more about these heads. You z guys probable know this one, copied from zhome.com E88 HEAD '72-'74The compression ratio is around 8.7:1 for all of these years. This is where things get confusing. There are three E88 heads, one for each of the three years. The 72 differs from the '73-'74 mostly in the quench area. This is significant as the '73-74 head has a raised quench area that increases chamber temperatures for improved combustion. Contrary to what you might think this is not good for H/P. These are the least desirable of the Z heads and the only way to tell them apart is to identify the combustion chamber. I think the '73-'74 head only differs in that the 260 has a larger exhaust valve. The '72 combustion chamber is similar to the E31 with the hemisphereical quench area a little deeper than the earlier head. Some IT competitors prefer the early E88, sighting that its valves are a little less shrouded than the E31. I've run both and saw no difference in ET' Here is the link to the comp cam web page: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1152&sb=2 I also went through e-mails from the seller. He apparently moved just after the machine work was done and can't find the box with receipts. The machine shop closed right afterwards and so no way to know for sure. I looked at his emails and no mention of what type of Venolia pistons. He did mention the 240 rods were used. Supposed to be better at high rpms? He also mentioned the valves are bigger than stock. When I get time I will try your method to see if they are flat or domed

dj, I had hoped to get over to talk to the mechanics but it's a Friday and clinics are always busy on them. I did get the #s off the distributor however. D67403 22100N4301 there are several really small #s at the end of the top #, but die to the position, am unable to read them.

When I run the high octane gas, I don't think it is pinging. The timing was set by the guys at Midwest Motor sports. They work on all the import cars around here. I trust their advice. They felt with race gas I should be OK. I have been driving her back and forth to the clinic and to some of the outreach clinics, not pushing her hard. With Minnesota weather, it's only a couple more weeks until I park both her and the Supra until early April. The "shop" I work at daily specializes in vintage homo sapiens with pain issues and opioid dependence. The big shop out behind my house is a 30 x 50 building with 12 foot wallls and a hoist. I can store most of the toys in there and it's a great way to relax, even if it's just changing oil or rotating tires, or shooting the bull with friends. Nephew is usually hanging around. Thankfully he's a better than average back yard mechanic. Right now we have a 72 and 73 Toyota Landcruiser in the shop. Sean is restoring the 72 (only 26K original miles) and doing a v8 swap into his old Volvo. His day job is at Fat Joe's Racecraft. They do pretty much anything to do with drag cars. He's a wiz at both tig and mig welding and fabrication. No idea why the previous owner had it put together with such high compression. I think he had the machine work done by a shop in Duluth and assembled it himself. If I would have known, (should have done a compression test before buying) I probably would have bought the red 280Z vith V8 swap that he also had for sale. I didn't like it as much because it was an old carbed 350 with a 3 speed automatic. If it had an LS engine and a 6 speed, the choice would have been easy.

NewZed: No need to buy a timing light, we have several of them in our shop.The timing is 18 degrees with vacumn line pulled off by my testing. When I reved her up she retatrds to about 32-34. I don't know how many rpm's it was but I will guess 2500, was alone in the shop, couldn't see the tach. I fully realize that my stong suit is not auto mechanics. That's why I am on here trying to learn as much as I can. I bought the 240 this way, no idea the compression was this high. I also pulled a spark plug & tried to take a pic but with my old camera couldn't get it to turn out. The top of the pistons have just a light brown color to them. I can see plenty of the metal as well. I would say carbon build up is not the issue.

djwarner, I am going to check on the timing degree. I do know they mentioned it when I had the compression done. I think they backed it off a few degrees. Still a bit unsure about the acetone. I will do some more reading on this. I don't want to open up the engine but if I had to I would want to go with a different head all together. I know the one I have is not considered the best. I am fine with the performance, she is pretty fun in 3rd and 4th gears. I just don't want to shorten the life of the engine by not proving enough octane.

Snow performance Stage 2 system (#20020MC) includes a 4150 carb plate and a controller that references vacuum as well as an rpm signal to command injection. http://www.snowperformance.net/stage-2-boost-cooler-muscle-car-n-a.html

I was told by mechanic (these guys are really experienced) that it was pinging. I do have experience with e-85 as I run it in my MKIII 2jz zwap. It has AEM engine management so much easier to controll fuel. It would be nice to know how much adding a thicker headgasket would drop it? I honestly did the math tonight while out bow hunting. At $8 a gallon for race gas and say 15 mpg, it wouldn't take long to save enough to either buy the meth kit or have Holley carb converted. Now that I think about it, pulling the head might help me have insight as to what was actually done to the motor since the previous owner didn't have paper work to show what exactly was done.

Hello all, I am a new 240z owner. My Z had engine rebuilt by former owner. It has the 2.8 L-92 engine with E88 head and N42 block. It has Venolia pistons with ? head work, 280 cams, arizona racing exhaust manifold/headers, holley carb, MSD ignition. Short video of the Z When I bought her I wanted to be sure I had the correct A/F mixture. The guys at the shop did a compression test, average 265 per cylinder. There is around 3K on the rebuild now. They recommended race gas. If I remember correctly, they estimated over 13-1 compression. Not sure how to figure it but I do know the Z loves race gas. I am concerned about detonation. Here in MN e-85 is cheap. I can have carb converted to be set for e-85 for around $400 http://marksullense85carburetors.com/contact.html This guy does the conversion on a lot of upper midwest cars. My other thought was water/meth injection. They make kits that are around the same $400-500 price. After doing a search, it seems there is a lot of controversy about this. All I know for sure is at $8 a gallon, it won't take long to be at that $400 mark Please let me know your thoughts. Links appreciated. Anyone in my situation??