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Fairlineguy

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  1. So my R180 diff is stripped and I’m replacing all the bearings . Question is the item described as a crush tube actually a crush tube ? I ask as mine had a shim under it which wouldn’t be required if it actually crushes secondly I see the tube in question is available in different sizes Both make me think it doesn’t crush and you either fit shims or fit a different size tube to set the preload
  2. So it seems slipper piston skirt contact isn’t unusual can’t say I’m convinced of longevity of them in road applications I’m using a 15/50 synthetic oil as recommended by the piston manufacturer but wondering if a zinc additive might be worth adding ?
  3. So a bit more info I build the l28 last year with the Kameari pistons the second clear picture is of that engine at 150 mile when I had to have the head back off. At the time I was a bit concerned to see evidence of skirt contact with the bore but I went on running the engine for a few thousand miles until for some unknown reason the bottom end bearing failed. When stripping the engine for rebuild the bore scoring was really quite bad unsure if it could be cleaned up I took it to the machine shop who said it would need a fresh rebore . Not wanting to buy another set of larger pistons they said that if I supplied another std block they could rebore it using the original pistons with new rings Anyway long story the fresh engine has now been totally rebuilt (bore and ring clearance are to spec.) Having now run the engine approx 150miles I decided out of curiosity to look inside the bore with an endoscope (see picture one) there are the same signs of skirt contact with the rebuild engine . I’m obviously now wondering if skirt/ bore contact is normal with slipper pistons
  4. I’m using 87mm kameari street pistons I had cause to remove the cylinder head after approx 150miles running in and was surprised to see evidence that the lower skirt is contacting the cylinder wall. Anyone else witnesses simulator wear ? If anyone is running slipper pistons and has a endoscope I’d be very interested in seeing a photo of your cylinder wall .
  5. Worth mentioning if you using a aftermarket ecu with wasted spark cop coils . Forget the ecu tach output If you power your coils through the original inductive loop tach wiring (same way the original coil was feed) you tach will work
  6. Quick up date . Jenvey loaned me a set of there 45mm bodies fitted up with Bosch 350cc injectors the same as where fitted in the heritage units. back to the tuner/ rolling road. Car is now running great no more pinging,plugs are burning equal and ign timing advance put back in So the heritage units have gone back and I’m running the normal itb
  7. Well bit of a update swapped out the heritage units for a set of there standard bodies and had the car back on the rolling road Car is now running great pinking has gone ,all plugs are burning the same colour, looks like I’ll be sticking with standard throttle bodies
  8. Suppose I could refit the old manifold and injectors and load the old map and see how it runs it’s just a pain having to rewire the old injectors resistors plus it’s not very sexy . The engines crank has been balanced and has alloy light weight flywheel. I’ve used maxsppeading rods ,electric water pump cop ign i just hoped the throttle bodies would give a sharper response and finish it off Photo of old plenum set up
  9. Here is a photo of the angle of fitment of the injector in the throttle body . these bodies a 48mm with 350cc injector. also can’t help thinking there probably on the large size for 230-50hp I’m thinking it might be worth seeing if I can try a set of standard itb with the injector firing straight, my question also would be what size would be recommended to work well and has anyone else found that they need to pull timing out
  10. As mentioned engine was running great in another car with same set up but a single stock plenum. until the engine through all it’s oil out. Engine has been rebuilt now with kameari pistons .35 above deck. But now has jenvey heritage itb. we removed the spark plugs the centre cyl plugs feed by the centre manifold where clearly running richer. we swapped them to a different cylinders and ran the car again on removal they where showing richer. this lead us to the conclusion that the is a mixture in balance and that only the centre cylinder are running correctly .The ideal of itb that all cylinder a receiving the same fuel. we had the injectors out and tested them on the bench they are all good Chatting with the tuner he’s having to pull about 10deg of timing out to stop the pinging . so where on the old ign map it was a 20 deg it’s now at 10degs I forgot to say the ping is at low rpm open throttle under load at higher rpm the timing has still had to be pulled by a few degs Clearly there is wetting of the wall of the outer manifolds as the angle of the injector fires directly at it I’m guessing that higher rpm there is enough air flow to ensure it mixes and never hits the wall .
  11. The problem Pinging whilst setting up new jenvey heritage itb on rolling road Brief story /Engine spec F54 block with kameari flat top pistons (10-1) Ported F42 head Comp cam 480 duration / 460lift Ms2 ecu (wasted spark /batch firing) Last year I ran the same engine in another car but with a single plenham manifold (stock 280z) I had the car rolling road tuned but the feeling then was that the manifold was restricting its performance. The car mapped and ran well 230hp no pinging issues and ran with a normal amount of ign advance The engine is now installed in my new 240z build the engine has been refreshed with a rebore (kameari 87mm street pistons ) I’ve now fitted jenvey heritage itb to a cannon intake manifold in place of the old single plenum manifold and injectors . On the first rolling road session to set up the jenveys the tuner detected pinging / detonation with his det can sensor attached to the block. He had to pull out up to 10degs of timing .His initial thought was that I should adjust the camshaft timing from 110 to 108. But last week when returning for a second session the pinging /det was still there so we pulled the spark plugs on very close inspection the plugs on 3 and 4 cylinder appeared richer. As it’s on itb you would not expect to see this . So Looking at the manifold the center cylinders intakes are fairly straight where as the outer cylinder manifold tracks are angled inwards. Heritage itb also have there injectors at a angle 15degs i think ? where as most stock itb the injectors fire straight What I’ve now found is that the injectors in the two outer heritage unit when injecting fire there fuel which hits the side wall of the manifold about halfway down the track but the centre unit pretty much fires it’s fuel directly down the manifold missing the side wall Also when removing the manifold the tracks where wetter than I would have expected and looking into the cylinders with a endoscopes the piston crown looks wet with bore wash My tuner says that it’s near on in possible to map it if all cylinders are not equal Come on guys give me your thoughts and experiences plenty of you must be running similar set ups
  12. Got there in the end 220degs my strobe just wasn’t playing ball ended up borrowing a cheap strobe any managed to see the mark.
  13. In need a bit of help guys with basic ign timing for first start up. I’ve recently purchased a 280z as a non runner with a missing ms3 ecu. The car is running coil over plug with x2 Quad spark units and a turbo Distributor fitted with a diyauto tuner 1-12 wheel. I’ve a new ms2 ecu and am having trouble setting the basic start up timing with a strobe. I simply can’t see the pulley mark at cranking speed to adjust the trigger1 setting Anyone have a similar set up and know a rough setting that might let me get it started so I can set up with strobe Any thoughts
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