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Gmagno

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Posts posted by Gmagno

  1. I want to change my stock SU setup to a more reliable solution for endurance racing. At first I was considering triple webers, then realized the ITB availability. I have looked at the options below and cannot find much info on others experiences with these products and suppliers, or if it's worth the expense. Should I choose the Megasquirt MS3-Pro or some other system to compliment this setup? 

     

    Engine is an N42 L24 block but I think I may find it is bored out once I get the head off. Attempting to decipher the CAM numbers it references a 420-02 Cam tech grind CWC camshaft.. The tach in the car has a redline mark at 7000 RPM so maybe I have something decent here? If I find this is a 2.4 stock block, I have a rebuilt F54/P90 flat top I could use and just transfer the head/cam to this engine. Looking for experts on this. I am good at teardown and rebuild but no engineer. Thanks in advance for the help.

     

    1. Top End Performance - Datsun Z Car Triple ITB Package with Air Horns or Air Filters. https://www.racetep.com/ztripitb-horns.html

    2. EFI Hardware - Universal 6 Cylinder Throttle Body Kits. https://www.efihardware.com/products/c387/Universal-6-Cylinder-Throttle-Body-Kits

    3. Datsun Spirit - DSI 50mm ITB setup. http://datsunspirit.com/shop/dsi-50mm-itb-setup/

  2. Just now, Invincibleextremes said:

    My advice? Sell the bc coilovers,  and do what I did for the front, then use my rear knuckles with bolt on 240sx 5 lug hubs and 240sx cv axles, that way you get cheap 5 lug setup and also cheap cv axles that work with your r200....

     

    The cv axles alone will eat you alive in costs, you know that.

     

    I have the Futofab rear axle CV conversion kit. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=175:datsun-wcr-cv-axle-kits&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122 

  3. 1 minute ago, Invincibleextremes said:

    Have you been following what I'm Doing?  I have 5 lug front and rear, and a monster diff and badass axles and monster 4 wheel disc brakes and it cost me around 2k to do on my 240z...

     

    I haven't but I already purchased a front/rear set of BC Racing coilovers that I cant use with anything other than the Datsun components. I have an R200 rear with a Quaife LSD and just wanted a better wheel choice. Not pushing the HP you are. This is an endurance race car with about 250HP at the crank.

  4. I realize this is beating a dead horse but just checking to see if anyone has been successful at this with available stock auto parts. I know most everyone has the front 5 lug hub for about $400.00 but the only one I found that has the rear is Arizona Z. I talked to Dave today and he said the front/rear set is $2200.00. Dave makes some great stuff but I am looking for a less expensive way to have better wide wheel choices.

     

    I just found this and am checking now on availablilty. 

     

     

    Thanks in advance for the help.......

  5. 1 hour ago, jhm said:

    Nice parts list!  👍  Dropping some serious change on this build.  You may want to consider some adjustable tie rod ends, while you're at it....there's a couple vendors out there; I've got T3's, and am pretty happy with the quality.  Apex Engineering just released some, but I don't know anyone that's used them yet.

     

    Thanks. I figure buy what will last or you will buy it twice at more cost. In fact I did order those from Dave at Arizona Z, just forgot to put them on the list.

     

    2 - Adjustable Billet Outer Tie Rod Ends $69.00 EA.

  6. 5 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

    They have a datsun set from rota if you aren't above using knockoff wheels, although from a more reputable source. At least better than using a knock off wheel and a wheel spacer.

     

    They have them in their RKR and RBR variants and come usually in 17x9-13 and 17x9.5-19. You could get sqaure 17x9.5-19. Depending on the tire it may be a bit of a balloon, or you could step down a size. 

     

    Rota grid classic also make a 16x9 -15 wheel which is a bit wider than what you have and may fit some wider tires.

     

    Caveat emptor, racing on knock off wheels has its own realm of concerns. Some people do it, others say they would never do it.

     

    Personally 17's look a bit too big to me. Granted tire choices in the 16 size is pretty poor.

     

    Thanks for the insight. I appreciate it.

  7. I have a headache looking for 10" wide wheels for racing my 240Z. I used XXR 527 16X8.25 0 offset with 245/45/16 tires on the old race car. The RE-11 or any decent track tires stopped making that size. I am considering going with 17" wheels since the track tire selection is greater. I have heard great things about the VENTUS R-S4 and it comes in 255/40ZR17 which fits the 10" wheels.

     

    Volk wheels are the only ones I have found that can be made with a custom offset in 114.3X4 at 17X10 and up but they are 700+ bucks ea. I found some that seem to be Meister Work knock offs on Fleabay http://r.ebay.com/Vs7yDu but not sure they would hold up. With the +10 offset would it be advisable to use the 114.3X4 to 100X4 one inch adapters. They can't be much better than the XXR wheels and they lasted many races in the old car and only cost $85ea. 

     

    Any opinions and/or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance........

  8. 17 minutes ago, Ironhead said:

    Looks like a great project, congrats!

     

    Some of the things that have been done to old race cars always intrigue me.  I wonder why they added the framework under the driver and passenger floor?  Seems like it would add no rigidity but a lot of weight....

     

    I hear you, not sure about 70's engineering minds. Putting it back to preserve the way it was and also using it as a framework for the full belly pan.

  9. Thanks JHM. Just purchased the following components for the build.

    1. BC Racing Coilovers Front/Rear DR Series Low Option( race and track use, not for street driven cars) (Silvermine) $1474.00
    2. Billet Aluminum Tension Control Rod Pair (Silvermine) $208.00
    3. Billet Aluminum Rear Lower Control Arm Pair (Silvermine) $799.00
    4. Billet Aluminum Front Lower Control Arms  Pair (Silvermine) $295.00
    5. Stock 280ZX Stub Axles (California Datsun) $120.00
    6. Stock 280ZX Front Differential Crossmember (California Datsun) $50.00 
    7. Billet Steering Knuckles/Bump Steer Pair (Arizona Z) $198.00

    8. Billet Aluminum Mustache Bar for 1970 240Z with R200 Diff (Arizona Z) $239.00

    9. Billet Rear Differential Brace Kit (Arizona Z) $329.00 

    10. Billet Aluminum Front Differential Mount (Arizona Z) $36.00 

    11. Stock 280ZX R200 Differential 3.54 (Clark Cars Arizona) $280.00

    12. Quaife QDF7L ATB Helical LSD Diff Limited Slip Differential (Autoplicity) $1158.29

    13. FutoFab, LLC WCR CV Axle Kit (FutoFab, LLC)$900.00

    14. TTT Billet Steering Coupler (Techno Toy Tuning, LLC ) $55.00

    15. Adjustable Billet Outer Tie Rod Ends (Arizona Z) $138.00

  10. The reference to "an actual race car" is a little cloudy. It was an actual SCCA race car in the 70's with that suspension technology. I had a 1973 240Z that had Ground Control coilovers and it faired well in endurance racing so I expect the BC technology surpasses that and should be fine for what I am doing. Already pulled the trigger and will keep everyone informed. Thanks for all the replies.

  11. 16 minutes ago, Gmagno said:

    Thanks seattlejexter,

     

    I heard bad things about the OBX, made in China, knock off, etc. MFactory is a grand. http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/partno/MF-TRS-05R200 . I saw that old post realted to you and exlifesaver. Would he be a good contact to save a few bucks or stay away and buy direct?

     

    I just picked up an 81 turbo r200 diff for $280.00 and planned to purchase a Futofab WCR CV Axle Kit for $900.00 so I guess another grand and its all done for the price of what Whitehead is suggesting.

     

  12. 25 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

    I think the suggestion was if you need it in a racing environment, you might as well weld the differential.

     

    The way that is designed it either won't work (weak springs), or it will work but will supply excess load on the bearings, which aren't designed to be under that kind of force constantly. Which means it will wear prematurely, that can lead to seizure and would be bad in a normal environment, but in a race environment where you are going fast with loud noises might go un-noticed and be catastrophic.

     

    Thanks for the info. So weld it and call it a day? I can't see spending 2K on a Quaife equipped 3.54 R200 LSD diff .

     

    i have a newly rebuilt Quaife equipped 3.54 R200 LSD diff here right now that is ready to go out. $2000

    Otherwise i may have a used clutch type lsd unit to put into an open 3.54 r200 diff here.  and that would be same price as listed on the site.

    I have a 3.54 R200 LSD diff waiting to be shipped to me on the next container. I can air ship it over for an extra $250

     

    Thanks,

    Mike Hanson
    Manager, Whitehead Performance
     

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