davek

73 240Z Stock gauges Megasquirt MS3 running for a few years now. I just finished an electric steering installation. But this issue started before the steering project. Temp sensor to ground test--- Needle works its way to 250 degrees and bounces around a little with voltage pulse. after 15-20 seconds needle drops to 3/4 range and bounces there then back to full hot. back and forth This test and previous test was with MS3 completely disconnected-fuses pulled. While engine running with tunerstudio online temp is normal and steady. To test both temp & pressure gauges I would need to disconnect the wires at the gauges and reconnect with a different power source like straight to a battery, to eliminate all car wiring correct? And if I could get to the wires I need to check voltage feeding the gauges for a pulse. fun fun fun

I understand electrical problems but what causes a sporadic pulse.

Fellas I can start the car and drive a couple minutes when the oil pressure & water temp gage needles work there way to zero rather quickly. At home I connected my voltage meter to the connector at the water temp sensor and to ground. Turned the key on and I get a 0 - 10 volt sporadic pulse. Every 1-2 seconds-I tried to attach video by it says unsuppoeted Same when I hook up to oil pressure sensor. Steady 12.5v at the console fuse. Haven't tried either wires t the gage itself. Probably a itch to get to? any ideas?

Here are the steps I took to make the unit work in my Z Thanks for the drop box mtnickel https://www.dropbox.com/s/uwtsk97izkkz4uo/240Z-steering.pptx?dl=0

Whee I would say it can be duplicated easy enough. You do have to want it. Once you cut up your steering column your committed:) Grannyknot, I can see cutting lap times. Just my spirited driving in the country I can feel myself pushing the turns harder. The fatigue from a longer race would be greatly reduced I would think. both- send me a message with email and I'll send the .ppt via a one of those free large file transfer sites. its 35 meg Here's a tidbit I couldn't fine on a forum. ------I ran 10ga wire with 30a inline fuse straight from a busbar very near my battery to the pigtail that came with the unit.. The wire never even started to warm up. I was concerned for nothing. Factory has maybe 8ga with 80 amp fuse.

Finished up my install. Equinox unit and Bruno's automatic control. I have about $200 in it. I do have friends in a die shop that wire burnt an adapter for me and gave me access to their machines.This is the 2nd best upgrade/mods I have done so far. The torque sensing differential is the #1 best investment. I couldn't be more please with the steering unit. Works just like it should. The Z's have always been a heavy steering car and this takes care of it. It's not a track car or autocross but I would want this modification for sure if I was an Autocross guy. I have about 1.5 hrs driving so far and love the way it feels. I made a 35meg .ppt of the mods I made if anyone would like to see it. The pictures are huge is why the large file.

Bummer reading these posts. I have my steering column and shaft cut up in pieces. We had a 2003 BMW Z4 that had the "steering unit issue". BMW fixed it I read in 2005 or 2006. Only when it was hot outside 85-90 degrees. Driving along basically in a straight line and try to make the normal small correction if felt like the steering had a detent ball and you needed to overcome the force. I hope that makes sense. Is this similar to what you are experiencing? When the outside temp is lower the steering worked perfectly. It was very annoying. Ruined the driving experience. Dave

I Hi all I bit the bullet and bought the Equinox unit. In process of shoe horning the unit in my 73" 240z. Bruno as an Automatic controller on ebay that eliminates the resistor(knob) and changes the assist by the force you apply to the steering wheel Has anyone tried the automatic unit? And what are your thoughts about it. I need to order one or the other soon. dave

Turns out the CAS was bad however my main problem was I wired the COP's and the injectors wrong. I am embarrassed to say. MS wires are labeled A, B, C, D, E, F and screwed up and wires them to #1, 2, 3 ,4 ,5 ,6 instead of firing order. Engine runs good now.. I still have CAM Fault red light on tunerstidio. Can't find a good answer for that. I also have another wiring problem that I just found. I pulled the fuse that powers MS and the engine still fires up. I'll report back.

change option setting in megalogviewer. duh

I just notice in the data log my rpm's in the 80k to 100,000 range. How does MS let it idle. I've got problems.

I'm back--- weather returned to normal after low teens. Pulled #4 &6 injectors and back flushed them then installed in #3&5 position. Problem did not follow the injectors. Aw crap. Rechecked in test mode injector & coils both function. Recheck cylinder compression-OK. Sill have cam fault light on TS dashboard. Composite log looks perfect. Attached latest data log. Almost like #6 & 4 timing is off. How can this be? #1 & #5 plugs look good. #6 is black #4 is not as black. When pull #6 injector connector the exhaust popping stops and A/F goes full lean. I would expect this. Pull #4 and little A/F change. Neither affects RPM. running out of things to check! Any ideas? What settings do I change to run wasted spark. I look that up & try it. Seems like I tried that this already but may not have had all setting correct. Dave 2018-01-07_18.34.01.msq 2018-01-07_16.43.32.msl

latest update new CAS in the distributor. Started with my foot tweeking the throttle. After is settle down off ASE it would idle. Adjusted timing to 10 degrees--very steady timing light. Then switch over to the table. Still rough missing idle & exhaust popping. no sync error but I do have CAM Fault red lght Composite logged looked very steady. pulled #6 injector connector(straight 6 engine) and popping stopped. Reconnected injector and pulled #6 COP connecter - popping stopped. No RPM difference either way. Pulled each injector connecters one at a time. #4 makes no change to engine idle. Swapped #6 & #4 COP to other cylinders. Problem did not follow the COP. all 6 plugs are filthy black. #4 & 6 are dry as are the others I assume from trying to run the last couple weeks with no success. Changed out all plugs and ran engine for only a couple minutes. All plugs looked new. Next step is to swap the 2 injectors to other cylinders to see if symptom follows the injectors. Thought process is dirty injectors. Why a CAM fault??? From reading other posts this fault is not my idle issue. I did start it once today and had no CAM fault. Never had any RPM sync error. composite log attached all comments welcome. Dave 2017-12-26_15.45.59.csv

yes I installed that resistor in MS a few years ago when I assembled MS3X. Instructions were pretty clear now that I reviewed the instructions. I had forgotten this. Does the log from previous post tell us anything? Rain the next several days. Rather not work in the rain. Will post more when I get something to share.

Received the CAS unit today. Bench test green wire was about the same at 1.3v. White wire was only 0.1 at the high spots. On the engine it started better. Had to keep my foot on the throttle some to keep it running. Still has a miss but sounds more like one or 2 cylinder missing. Stinks rich. attached a composite log. What does the log tell us? I am by myself so couldn't check timing but sounds like way more than timing. It almost would run at idle. Tomorrow or sat I'll get it outside(exhaust reasons). Adjust the butterfly screw or IAC to keep it running. Determine which cylinders are not firing etc. megalogviewer says I need to register to read the full log file. $39.95 I though this license came with tunerstudio registration? 2017-12-21_17.47.47.csv

SleeperZ the link is DIYAUOTUNE direction for using the trigger wheel in an L28ET distributor. It does require a pull up resistor as you stated. This is done inside megasquirt. Or can be done right at the wires are you said. MS manual says this to do this or internal to MS. I followed these direction when I assembled my MS. It worked fine. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/ Just ordered CAS on EBAY. Out of California via Taiwan. We see mid next week. New $49 delivered.

cgsheen What you post about 5v is what I keep hearing. However my distributor is not doing that. If you look at my previous post that has my various logs there is something wierd going on. Maybe this is typical results of a CAS fault. Not defined. I will continue trying to locate an older Nissan with a VG30 engine this week.

No luck at Pull A Part today. oldest maxima was 94 and it had the newer style CAS. with the connector sticking out the side instead of downward. I did bring the CAS home. It won't fit in the distributor of course. No pathfinders or frontiers old enough at Pull A Part. Villager and Quest as well. Can someone confirm ZXT CAS white wire has zero volts when powered up like sleeperZ's instruction's. Check green wire also. cheers

WOW For several thousands of miles I had the black distributor wire grounded to negative battery. MS pin #1 was not used. The distributor has a heavy paper gasket at the base that would not help grounding to the engine but does directly contact the front cover enough for a ground. I will connect the ground wire to pin #1 per MS wire diagram. as I skimmed the article. I have all grounds going to my fuse panel which has direct ground to the battery terminal. Nothing grounded directly through the engine, frame etc.

SleeperZ With 2.2k I get a steady 0.44v then a rise to 13.5 at that one spot on a revolution. I used the resistor on white wire and got zero to open line to 14v turning very slowly. Are we confident enough it's shot for me drop $120 on a new one? I will see if the junk yard has one tomorrow. Its been too long and I didn't take notes when I assembled MS but I'm sure I followed the direction on DIY and installed a resistor as described. so what about white wire and no voltage. Actually reads 0.035. CAS seen better days!!! I'll follow your install info chickenman. report back soon as I can get used one. thanks guys.

here is latest MSQ, data log and composite log. This engine ran OK for a couple years then I rewired using DIY MS & MSX wire harness. I mixed wired the green, white & black wires in the dizzy during the process. I hope it didn't burn anything but the optical sensor. Dave CurrentTune.msq 2017-12-12_17.43.26.msl 2017-12-11_19.02.48.csv

The 1.3v on the green wire is one place per evolution.

Thank you for replying. FYI-I have the DIYautotune trigger wheel in the distributor. Green wire is cam signal, white is crank position per DIY. I get zero to 1.3v as I manually turn the distributor on the green wire. Zero voltage on the white wire. I'm checking these back to the black wire I have my power supply hooked to. I don't understand the resistor instruction. My ignorance. Bridge a resistor directly across the 2 connectors? What size resistor. Not much to choose from in my garage shop. 10k, 2.2k

Hi guys Can someone check the ohms on the crank position sensor of 83' turbo dizzy. I have big problems with my megasquirt re-install and would like to find out if my CAS sensor is bad. Green wire to Black(ground) I get 103 ohm. White to ground I get open circuit. green to red(power) is 106 ohm. white to red is 6.8 ohm I'm no electronic guy by any means I barely know what an ohm is. Please don't get to technical on me. Another question s how does one change the sensor? Do I use a puller to get the center round dics off(see pic) then I assume the circuit board and sensor can be removed. I posted this on Classic Zcar yesterday and had no response. I read on a forum an older Maxima has the same sensor, can anyone confirm?

I put a white gear in the tranny and gained a little ground. Reads 10-11 mph fast now. Sorry I should have posted this a long time ago. Been driving with GPS for a year or better. Time to start looking for a solution. I'm thinking swapping in the guts of an electric speedo and use the original face. Thanks what I did for my tach. I'm running. MS3X