davek

I removed the guts from a SunPro tach and fitted to my stock tach housing and face. Didn't take that long and works perfectly. You may have seen my thread on MS Extra trying to get the stock tach functional. now the speedo mystery

OK madkaw I'm finally ready to do the tach adapter. Are you using MSD #8910 or 8920. Or some other make. Sounds like the 8910 will do the job. thanks

Thanks Matt Any idea if I can get an OEM tach from a later model car at the junk yard to work?

Like all of us trying to get our 240Z tachs functional. I was thinking about these cheap tachs on ebay or amazon--Sunpro, Sun super tach 2 About $30. If meagsquirt will operates these tach I could strip it down and fit into my 240Z tach housing. Probably swap the needle. Anyone tried this?

Good to here it's possible madkaw. What year is the tach you got working? On the old tach black/white is the coil wire I think, what is the green/white wire you refer to? Like Isaid I don't have my tach out of the dash. I'm working off internet pictures of old tachs and the 76 tach on by bench.

I mean --red/black wire of the tach.

I no nothing about electronic so I need to ask. This 76 tach I purchased should function or not by attaching + & - to 12v and the tach wire #26 from MS3X to the red wire terminal of the tach?

My Z is a 73. I have not tried connecting the tacho wire from megasquirt to the tach yet. I just assumed it would not work. I haven't removed the tach to see if it has the single green wire signal wire or not. I did buy a 76 tach and was told it is a working unit. Well what do you know? It does work when powered to battery and signal from Megasquirt. Using an analog multimeter wouldn't I see a flicker on the megasquirt tacho wire at 900 rpm? That's 15 pulses per second? I see a rock solid 13v. fishing guys just fishing.

Has anyone on here tried this tacho driver. Any success? I nearly have all the components and am close to give it a try. dinoplex.org/tachoconversions Or--has someone derived a better way to drive the old 240Z tach with megasquirt? Thanks Dave

Can I assume the standard Nissan tranny gears will fit the BW T5? Anybody have actual experience. Cheers

I'm leaning toward a blue 18 tooth gear and see what happens. another $30 spent. I will try the rolling car/tire again to check diff gearing. 3.54 to 3.70 is pretty significant. Yes I know both wheel need to be on the ground or tuning the same.

Speedo is off about 15 mph highway speed. Reading faster than actual.

Wow, thanks for the quick replys. It does have 3.54 gears easily checked by counting drive shaft rotations to wheel rotation. I did not drive the car before the tranny & diff swap I did with the donor car. My tires are 195/70-14 very similar to stock 240Z tires so this is not the problem either. Andreas I will check with a GPS are stated later this week if it is indeed a constant speed variation I will move the needle as you suggest. I hope it is that simple. I'll reply Friday or sooner after my drive with GPS. Waiting on return of my fuel injectors. That's a whole other discussion.

I recently installed an R200 with a 3.54 ratio gears in my 240Z. Ratio tested by counting drive shaft rotations per wheel rotation. It has the black plastic gear in the transmission but the speedo is reading faster than the car is moving. I will drive with a GPS later this week to get an accurate speed variation. The tranny is the BW T5. Both tranny and diff came out of a doner 1983 Turbo car. Anyone have a known solution. Everything I have read says the black gear in the one needed. The black gear was in the tranny unmolested when I bought it. Stock 1973 240z speedometer. Dave

That worked easy enough. I'll let you know after I drive if not correct.

It's linear nobody to talk to here in the garage so I will ramble my thoughts. 8.5/20=.435 volts per AFR unit .435 should be my offset. I'll change MS to 8.065 -- 19.565

I'm all for that but there isn't much to there to fudge. A little more detail please. something like this: I programmed the wide band to 0v = 8.5, 5v = 20 so calibrate ECU like this 0v = 8.5 5v = 21 seems you could play for hours finding the right offset. for 0 & 5 volts. It seems you could find a match at say 13AFR but at 11 or 15 they would be off. 2 different curves with only one common point on the curve. Am I missing something? Do you know a simple way? cheers Matt

Finaly got to getting a cable. No excuses. Followed Megruires vid-James Murray. Everything appeared to program as explained. Made no difference at all. MS still reads about 1.0 to 1.1 leaner than my wide band. Anybody have anymore thoughts? I don't know anyone anywhere to borrow one for a test.

Hello Matt Both are grounded to the same place on my fuse/relay panel I made. From there, master ground goes about 10" to battery post via 12ga wire. Out of town this week. will get back into it Sat or Sunday. Should I try the programing shown above or you might have other suggestion?

I just noticed the program cable in he Innovate box. Now I need a 9 pin serial to USB. Serial port getting a little old school.

Sounds good Meguires Now to find a program cable.

L28ET with MS3X sequential spark & fuel. Innovate MTX-L wide band I have it idling pretty good right now. but wide band reading about 3.5 and TS reading about 4.5 Which could be correct and how do I synchronize them. Tuner Studio user guide wasn't very clear. When starting a project my choice was wide band(default) or lamnda. I chose default. and ideas?

about 1/2 second pulse using analog volt meter. Voltage jumps all over with digital meter. Ground at sending unit is good. Fuel gage doesn't work. reading 60 ohm at sending unit. I read on the forum 90 ohm empty 10 ohm full. Ohms do change with various levels of fuel. I had am MG that had a pulse to the unit to level out fuel sloshing around in the tank. Is the pulse normal for a 240Z. The manual doesn't indicate a pulse. Any ideas what might cause this if not normal? I hate to pull the gage but do need fuel level. thanks guys Dave

thank you Matt

Several questions as I am a nube at electronics. Using MS3X/v3 hardware manual to assembly 1) Step13. Not using coil-ve as a trigger input instead install C30 in H1/boot. I'm using L28ET distributor with DIY trigger disc. If the above instruction good for me? Does the C30 spot stay empty? 2) Step28 Did not install Q16 as I am full sequential with Toyota logic coils. Is this correct not installing Q16. 3) Step 26 line 4 I installed the DIY Tip120 mod kit to control my Ford 2 wire PWM. Installed per DIY at Q4 and jumped R39.. Is this OK. I know I can use the MS daughter card to control my PWN valve but I did it this way. Want to varify I don't need to do anything else. 4) Do I install JP7 using the L28ET & DIY trigger wheel. at One point I read to assembly as using VR trigger but I assume the distributor is optical. It's not real clear for someone not knowing the terminology. hoping Matt can chime in here. or anyone with much more knowledge than I. One other comment. While testing the tach fine signal on the Jimstim I get a solid LED then start to blink extremely fast the back to solid. I mean so fast it's almost solid. Testing the primary POD I get no LED. Testing voltage at CPU socket all passes. While hooked to TunerStudio I get no tach signal and say "not tach synced" Other signals are OK. TPS, O2, CLT Should I move on to the car or resolve the Jim Stim, TunerStudio tach thing first? cheers Dave