bahelion89

first off i hate posting vids, i always sound like a tool, and dont know whats going on..plus i seem to run out of words. that being said... 1975 280z 5spd swap, headers, newer motor...all done before i bought it. i've been chasing electrical and have finally said screw it and going megasquirt 2 with v3.0 board. confirm bad AFM? first video: i have the afm unplugged and in default it runs fairly well, the idle varies slightly it will sit at 900rpms if it runs for a while(wish it would all the time) but the purpose of this is to show that everything runs fairly well. second video: plugged the afm back in. if it does decide to stay running it idles at about 500rpm. any time you touch the throttle it backfires or dies. like i said one of the guys on atlanticz has a way to reset the afm and it still didnt help. no matter what i do with the afm plugged in it doesnt run right. let the trolling and comments begin!

to truly get the most out of a high comp turbo motor its all about the TUNE AND FUEL. I have some expericence with smaller high comp turbo motors and you need to feed it properly or it will blow. unless your willing to do a total overhaul go with a different motor.

Alright guys, My car is almost stock...6-2-1 header and 5spd swap The stock electronics in my car are junk and i need to get my car up and running soo.... I've been doing a lot of research on MS2 v3.0 main board and what it takes to run it. I know right off the bat that i need : -Coolant temp sensor (CTS) -Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT) -Throttle Postion Sensor (TPS) (most likely 240sx throttle body) -Oxygen Sensor (EGO)(highly recommended) -Stepper IAC (is this needed?) My question is can i use the stock ignition setup and stock injection to begin with? I will have LS2/Yukon coils wired for wasted spark, ford injectors down the line...but i need a starting point. I know LS2 coils require that you run a trigger wheel and sensor which takes fab and i cant get a clear on required parts. -which trigger wheel and sensor do i use for an N/A setup?...there seems to be confusion. I've found this link and its and extremely good write up but i'm not using my stock harness because its pretty fried. i also believe he's using a 80's distributor. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48292-msii-installed-running-in-78-na-280z-stock-wiring/ Am I missing any components? any recommendations? the final product over the next couple of months should look like the below image. My Ultimate Goal is a high comp L29, E85, ITB, Twin turbo monster....No i will not do an engine swap L28 all the way! Thanks guys!!!!

you apparently have never had to look at the electrical in your car. the dual relay is a crucial part of the fuel system, not blinkers. read the fuel injection manual.

2 relays on the passenger side? as far as i know i have the one dual relay that controls just about everything and it is loacted on the drivers side. if there is other relays neither my efi bible or fsm give me any info on them.

So, I've been doing electrical troubleshooting on my 1975 280z. The afm hasn't been messed with, and the fuel pump is good(i ran a jumper and it runs good). i had an issue with my starter not getting enough juice but fixed that issue with a relay. the motor was swapped with another L28e(previous owner) and has 40,000 miles. the car also has a 5spd swap and a 6-2-1 header. it had been messed with electrically but i turned everything back to stock. Now to my issue, when i turn the key to the on position i get the fuel relay click as well as my belt interlock click(aka put seat belt on or no start) i then turn the key and the starter cranks but no fuel. i have disconnected my starter and tried listening to hear the fuel pump but nothing. the fuel injection manual says that if the fuel relay clicks then to check the 35 pin connector for the following leads: Results: 1) Lead 10: 12.25V 2) Lead 1: 11.52V 3) a) Lead 5: 1.4ohms Lead 16: 1.7ohms c) Lead 17: 1.6ohms d) Lead 35: 1.4ohms 4) a) Lead 14: 12.2V Lead 15: 12.2V c) Lead 30: 12.2V d) Lead 31: 12.2V e) Lead 32: 12.2V f) Lead 33: 12.16V are these the correct readings? if so i still have zero power to my fuel pump.. i have been cleaning a bunch of my connections and using electrical grease afterwards. i also have no power to my tail lights. i have cleaned the 2 connectorson the passenger side several times and still getting nothing. I'm stumped. i will be following the entire trouble shooting section of "no engine start" later also do you have any idea how to delete the belt interlock unit? Thanks for your help!

Well, My car, when running had monetary power to the pump. As soon as the key went to the on position, the pump started cycling. There was a quiet ticking noise, the tach danced, and flip the ignition toggle switch to start the car.

i have both the efi bible and fsm downloaded onto my laptop. both have a lot of knowledge and its hard to learn when you only get an hour here and there. thanks for the input on the trans swap i was not informed one was ever done. its part of the mystery of this car...and frustration. guess its back to the drawing board (aka Fsm) i will be going through it with a fine tooth comb.

Not sure about the swap.. I'm learning as much as possible through the fsm. 1975 280z My knowledge is with early turbo dodges. Please school me exactly how it gets power so I can get it on the road. From what I understand..u turn the key to the on position and the pump cycles.power goes from the battery to the ecu and relay then to the pump....

well guys...it started as a simple fuel tank flush, and now its a nightmare. so the car turns over but the fuel pump is not getting any power. first things first i yanked the pump and ran lines to the battery and the pump works just fine..some of the coating on the wiring was cracked off so i just snipped the lines and in the process of running new wire. after that i will be checking power before and after the relay to see if the break down is there...meaning new relay? Second and kinda disturbing is the fact i found a group of wire/connections just dangling next to the trans...do the sensors in the trans connect to the starting system? the more i dig the worse things get.. i also have a random toggle switch in the section of the harness where the radio is...any ideas what thats about? any and all ideas appreciated sensor on top of trans random toggle in radio harness all the other funness hiding in my car the relay that is missing here is sitting inside currently they bypassed the key that was having issues and did this

well i know its not the fuel pump, runs just fine. fuel lines push out plenty of fuel and ive changed the filter because i cleaned the tank, and the old one sounded like a baby rattle. fuel damper? i'm guessing thats not the issue seeing plenty of fuel shoots out from it. either a wire is touching metal or the relay is out...seems to be the old options left... unless anyone has other ideas?

1975 280z

all right guys finally got my tank back in the car went to start it and... got the pump to cycle, turned the key and it almost started. turn the key again and no fuel pump cycling!! keep in mind that the car was running before i dropped and cleaned the tank...like crap but it still ran. i found that one way to check if it was the relay was to turn the key to the on postion and then open the flapper in the air flow center..did that and all i hear is a click, no fuel pump cycling bad relay right? the pump was replaced before i bought it and the car ran fine when he started it for me, so i'm guessing relay. i've already found the relay in the drivers side, but now i'm trying to find a replacement and cant!! is there an upgrade for these? where can i find an oem unit? thanks for your help!

cars already injected..wire broke inside the permanent connector. the only thing with mine is i dont no if emissions will reject it for not telling gas usage

has anyone used a autometer universal sending unit in replace of their old broken unit? i dont need a low fuel light so im not worried about having that. two of the three wires are busted and i dont feel like spending 200 on a new unit.