bahelion89

Any news?

any update

So i went to put the back end of my 280z back together with my energy suspension kit and to my surprise the rear sway was huge compared to the bushing so i took a measurement and couldnt believe it, so i had someone else check it and sure enough the rear sway bar measure at 1in diameter. Now the measurements where taken by using a tape measure but two sets of eyes never lie. Anyone know who even makes these? or possibly the energy suspension part number for the front and rear sway bar bracket bushings?

your correct in the orientation of the springs. i'm unaware of any issues with the bump stops but i installed kybs with vogtlands and separate bump stops.

thanks!!!

not sure if i worded it wrong but couldn't find anything... so when upgrading the ignition to edis and removing the distributor do you have to modify the oil pump shaft to keep it working correctly? simple question right.

i tested the EDIS setup with the stock computer before setting up megasquirt

does anyone have a base setup/tune for a stock l28e running EDIS? the edis is running ford coil on plugs like 1 fast z's cars? i just want to make sure everything is setup right before starting the car. thanks!!!

so i have an n42 block that i may want to overbore to 90mm.. any idea what issues i would have? just curious thanks

thank you Boog! so i also have some weird stuff going on with something mixing with the oil so i'll be pulling the head and replacing the head gasket.

alright so i have a 75 280z that i'm redoing the suspension on and i cant find any real information on the strut bearings/mounts. my question is do i need to replace the "strut bearing/mount" in the front and the bushing in the rear when installing the new components? i have new kyb's, vogtland springs and a master energy suspension kit, and possibly getting st sway bars thanks!

so your telling me that an engine that has sat for 10yrs, you wouldn't want to check it out and make sure everything is okay? a 1/2" of sludge in the pan wouldnt be a concern to you? you guys are focusing on the little details of the conversation and not answering the real question. If i dont know the history of a motor/car and can see it hasnt been properly taken care of i am going to check/replace everything especially if i need to depend on the vehicle. just think of my car as a total restoration project What kind of timing chain set would you use?

Well right now i'm installing megasquirt and c.o.p's and i have a big leak from the valve cover because the threads were stripped by someone prier. so i was planning on getting megasquirt running and then taking the head off to take care of the leak problem, at the same time, overhauling the motor just to ease my mind...i know compression is good so i wont be tearing the pistons out unless something is terribly wrong...i'm use to dealing with troublesome motors and don't feel like having to rework anything twice. and yes i know that the metal composition in the block is wonderful, but i don't trust previous owners. p.s. i also have about a half inch of sludge in my pan from sitting for ten yrs and not being run and that makes me cringe

really? all those looks and no one has an input?

75 280z motor is stock and supposedly only has 40,000 but sat for 10yrs. alright so i'm taking the engine apart and rebuild/refreshing my motor depending on how everything looks. My question is what brand of timing chain/set is everyone using? ITM, Beck/Arnley, Cloyes Thanks!

i'm seeing alternators on the drivers side of the l28 engine and i'm curious if its just a simple bracket swap or more complex? I would like to use the bolt holes in the block from the alternator for a different bracket im making.... Thank you!

alright i understand that when wiring your injectors for batch fire they are wired in 2 sets of 3 injectors. My question is how are you actually wiring them? 3 injectors to 1 wire and then a jumper at the db37? or 1 injector to 1 pin and 2 injectors to the other pin? Pics would be great because with what i have shows wiring 3 injectors to a single wire Thanks!

Hey so are you saying that I need to add a resistor to each injector and run a certain program setting in ms2?

running megasquirt 2 do you have to use the resistor pack for the stock injectors or is there another way? i know that megasquirt runs both high and low impedance injectors and that is why i ask. Thanks!

75 280z stock l28 pretty much all my wiring is junk due to hot summer heat and sitting for 10yrs. got tired of chasing wiring and just wired my fuel pump to a separate switch, and its apparent that all my wiring is going to end this way. Also my cold start system has been removed due to problems and the warm temperatures, no a/c, or heat, radio....pretty much taking a minimal approach to the car/race car lol. Anyway my question is, with the fuel pump out of the way does anyone know if the fuel pump relay be deleted and a smaller newer relay replace it to control the the rest of the EFI system?

i understand that the cell itself needs to be supported. but the real question is does the car itself need the extra support due to the loss of material in between the rear frame rails the link below shows someones race Z and the cell is just bolted to excess metal and not the frame itself. if the design in the link below is a decent one then i will be building it this weekend. http://www.typeischeap.com/pics/FrameSet.htm

alright guys! 1975 280z mostly stock So started cleaning out my tank with muriatic acid just to find out my tank is way to far gone to save..so i pretty much made up my mind to install a fuel cell. my question is, after cutting out the spare tire does the frame need to be reinforced? ive seen fuel cell setups that simple bolt the fuel cell "cage" on to the car and are not connected to anything structurally...

Alright guys back again with yet another episode in the saga that is my 280z 1975 280z L28 with headers 5spd I've tested fuel once before and was fine, tested it last night and at idle I only have 28psi before the rail. The car will idle decent but touch the gas and it wants to die So is an 8psi difference enough to mess with how the car runs? What do you think are probable causes? P.s. Fuel filter is new, installed a second filter, injectors are clean

Z-YA: i realize megasquirt is not just a drop in deal, and i'm prepared to do the electrical/fab work needed. i live in az so my electronics are not in the best shape due to extreme temps and everyone complains that its the supporting systems that make the l28 fail. BLUDESTINY: my fuel pressure checks out in the normal range. its one of the first things i checked after rewiring my fuel pump. NewZed: Thank you for the better explanation. any idea what be causing the rich mixture? i've tested injectors, fuel pressure, spark...just about anything i could think of and what was recommended in the EFI Bible. its true about the pop can concept, but multiple people have used it with sucess and even a local specicality shop made the recommendation. The coolant temp sensor and thermostat are brand new, that was something replaced first..the car sat for several years before i bought it. As for my plans, I'm sticking with the l28 (to me its part of what makes it a 280z), it will be a good first step as i will be swapping in a pallnet fuel rail, and using ls/suburban coils, down the line. Using MS gives me an excuse to upgrade all the supporting electronics.

guess i should have added that...I've cleaned just about every connection i can think of, replaced just about every hose, etc... pretty much everything that's recommended when you buy a z car. if i play with the afm i can get the car to run the same as in default mode aka stupid rich. at that point the spring pressure is none existent. I've also run a bunch of electrical test showing everything is fine. That's why i'm going with megasquirt. its finally just caused enough irritation that i'm saying screw it. the car was suppose to be my daily driver. but that just seems to be my luck