Spike243
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Posts posted by Spike243
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Hi I'm having a problem with my 82zxt where it wont start at all and I believe its because its too rich. Car was running extremely rich yesterday (~10AFR) and now today it won't start at all. I have checked the chts and replaced it with a new one. The sensor read about 2000 ohms at 60 degrees. I also completely replaced the wires to the computer as to eliminate the sensor reading too much resistance all together. The car has been having recent issues where it will run at stoich up till about -7 vacuum and then immediately plunge to under 10 afr's. The only idea I have at this point is the FPR could be faulty and causing excessive fuel pressure? Oh and I have gone through and cleaned all the grounds and electrical connectors I could find.
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Will a speedometer cable from a s30 work on a s130? My car is an 82zx, the speedometer cable is from an unknown year.
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Still looking for a good RPM signal
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Oh shoot my bad. Its a 1982 l28et all stock ignition. If the negative terminal of the coil provides a bad signal would the tach wire or ignitor wire be any better?
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You probably make a GM HEI module do the job. Details on your engine management system would help.
The ignition system is completely stock. It sounds like I would need some kind of Module to get the proper signal?
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Hi, I recently installed an Eboost Street and was wondering if there was anywhere I could tap in to obtain a square wave RPM signal? I tried using the negative side of the coil and that produces a very erratic signal, possible due to low voltage? (<3.5V)
I read on another site that older cars do not produce a useable square wave signal so I may need a converter. I just wanted to double check here first to make sure. Thanks
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Well I hooked up the tach signal to the negative side of the coil and I'm getting a very erratic rpm signal. Yes I checked and the eboost street is set to 6 cylinders. Is this due to low (<3.5V) signal?
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Hi I am about to install and EBoost Street on my 1982 280zx turbo and was wondering exactly which wire to use for square wave tach signal? It isn't necessary for the controller, I just want to have it for convenience.
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To answer your quesiton: no, edis is setup for a 36-1 signal, sending it a 12-1 would probably confuse it.
I would ditch the EDIS and use three BIP373 ignitors with megasquirt. EDIS is a left over from the olden days when MS was less developed. I'm sure there's other reasons, but in my mind, it's just superfluous hardware. With a trigger wheel (anything divisible by 6 cylinders: 6-1, 12-1, 30-1, 36-1, etc), MS-extra has all the information to control a wasted spark setup by itself.
With the DIY 12-1 wheel, all you need to run wasted spark is three ignitors or something like DIY's Quad Spark ignition module.
So when along with megasquirt, all I would need for wasted spark is the DIY Quad Spark ignition module and a six tower coil pack (or three coils)?
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I am looking into converting my 280zx to the ford edis6 setup along with megasquirt and I have a couple questions. Is the 36-1 wheel and hall sensor necessary to make the edis run IF you are using the Diy trigger wheel to signal megasquirt?
Basically, can EDIS be used with megasquirt and the diy trigger wheel?
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redbull z might still be selling a turbo if you need one. I was going to buy it from him a few days ago but found another deal so you could message him.
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Bump, z-ya's sale fell through
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Hi I am looking for a stock turbo our upgraded turbo for my 82zxt. Preferably in good running condition
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Ok, so I decided it was time to rebuild and upgrade the turbo so I ordered a rebuild kit from gpop shop. It was the complete t3 kit with the one piece carbon seal and I opted for the 360degree thrust bearing upgrade as well. In the midst of this I decided to upgrade to a TO4e housing and wheel.
My first question is what kind of seal does the stock turbo use? I pulled the turbo apart and I believe that the stock turbo uses a dynamic seal as opposed to the carbon seal that gpop shop states (there was no carbon seal that I pulled out but there is the 270degree thrust bearing with the thrust collar that I assume is also the dynamic seal with the piston ring on it?) . Because of this I dont think I can rebuild with this kit.
My second question is that I opted for the 360degree thrust bearing and I want to know how this is supposed to fit together with the carbon seal? The instructions on the site do not show how a 360degree thrust bearing is assembled with a 1piece carbon seal?
So to sum this up does anyone have detailed instructions how to rebuild with the kit I have? I assume the kit will work with my TO4e compressor housing and backing plate.
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For that amount of boost, you don't want an internal wastegate. It probably wouldn't be set up right and could cause bad boost creep.It probably won't be big enough to work properly. Generally for new turbo's made, t25's and t28's are internal, anything t3 and up almost always requires an external. Unless you buy some china crap, but then all kinds of crap can go wrong. They are all almost turbo and water cooled as well.
Also all those turbos I named are pretty much $1k+.
I do believe there are some holsets that are internal (hx35 or hy35), and you can ship those off to pretty much any diesel truck repair place and they should know how to fix it.
Heres a better question I suppose. Will adding an external wastegate flange cause fitment issues on an otherwise stock 83zxt? I do have the AC compressor removed but i am more concerned about issues with the steering shaft?
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For that amount of boost, you don't want an internal wastegate. It probably wouldn't be set up right and could cause bad boost creep.It probably won't be big enough to work properly. Generally for new turbo's made, t25's and t28's are internal, anything t3 and up almost always requires an external. Unless you buy some china crap, but then all kinds of crap can go wrong. They are all almost turbo and water cooled as well.
Also all those turbos I named are pretty much $1k+.
I do believe there are some holsets that are internal (hx35 or hy35), and you can ship those off to pretty much any diesel truck repair place and they should know how to fix it.
A holset hx/hy 35 with a good boost controller sounds like my best bet. Those diesels are running those turbos 25psi+ easy on the stock wastgate right?
A good boost controller should be able to control boost creep as well?
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You can either machine the housing to accept a bigger wheel, or just buy a new turbo. Generally installing a bigger wheel will be cheaper.
Turbo Selections: GT35R, GT30R, or a Precission 5558, 5858, 5862. Each one of these has a different flow map, which is something you'd need to consider for you choice.
I'm feeling like machining wont be an option because there really is no easy access to machine shops, performance shops, turbo shops where I am at.
Can you recommend any turbos with internal wastegate and oil cooled? I want to keep this setup simple and lower on price. Thanks again for all of the help.
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Yes the stock turbo can be rebuilt. G-pop makes a rebuild kit, about $150 if I recall. "best bet" to upgrade depends on your goals. If you want it cheap, rebuild the stock one. If you plan on running more boost, get a QUALITY brand T3, such as a garrett, turbonetics or precision.
You can put in a bigger wheel, the compressor housing can be machines out. I know the z31 turbo can take a larger wheel, and since your turbo still spools, it would be worth looking into getting one of those to rebuild so your car isn't down too long.
New turbos will bolt to the manifold as long as they are T3, but the downpipe will probably have to be custom made. Any competent exhaust shop should be able to do this if you give them a flange.
So if I understand right to do a T3/T4 hybrid I have been hearing about requires the compressor side to be machined?
My goals are to run ~15psi by next spring so I am starting to lean towards a new turbo. Any immediate suggestions come to mind? I know the holset hy/hx 35s are a solid choice, it just depends if I can find one for a good price.
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So I pulled apart the rubber boots to the intake and discharge side of the compressor while installing an intercooler. When I pulled the boots off I found a good sized puddle of oil on both sides of the compressor and to top it off the compressor wheel has a good amount of side to side play in it. Note the car was running and spooling well before I discovered all of this.
My questions are:
1.can the stock turbo be rebuilt or is my best bet to upgrade the turbo to a T3/T4 hybrid?
2.If an upgrade is necessary, is the stock turbine housing reused and with new wheels, bearings, full compressor side, etc. used?
3. If a full turbo is needed is there one that will bolt directly to the stock manifold + downpipe with no modification?
I want to stick with an internal wastegate and oil cooled because I want to keep the whole system simple.
Thanks for all the help and sorry I couldnt find all this information by searching
Car wont start/way too rich
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Quick update. I tested the fuel pressure and it is holding about 33 at cranking so that is correct. I pulled the clips off the injectors and manually powered them and they all click open and closed so I don't think the injectors are seized open. I cranked the car over with the injectors disconnected and it will fire and run for about 5 seconds so I know for sure its not a spark issue. I also retested the AFM and it checks out fine. I'm at a total loss to why it is flooding.
The car will not fire with the injectors connected.