Hey all, its been quite some time since I last posted and I wanted to give everyone an update. I have completed the turbo 5.3/4l80e swap in my 82 and i figured you guys would like to see some pictures of the swap. I've got some final clean up work to do in the engine bay but for the most part everything is complete. I will list a basic list of parts that I have used and tidbits of knowledge that may be useful to someone else that wants to pursue a similar swap.
Engine - 2002 LM7 w/ unknown mileage
Trans - 2004 4L80e 2wd from an express van.
Converter - Stock 2004 4L80e converter for now.
Cooler, fittings, lines - I bought 90 degree banjo fittings to allow for clearance on the cooler lines. Bought from Ebay. -6an stainless braided PTFE lines with a generic trans cooler.
Trans dipstick - Spend the money and get a flexible dipstick. Clearance is tight and the flexible dipstick is worth the $100. I bought mine from Lokar and its 24 inches long.
Shift kit - Transgo HD2 kit. My limited research tells me a 4L80e with the HD2 kit (or other dual feed style mods) will easily hold 600whp in a light car. Check out LS1tech.com for advice on shift kit install.
Flexplate - 2003 silverado 6.0 flexplate. The flexplate spacing is different for different transmissions. Do some research and make sure that your torque converter will bolt up.
Driveline - 4L80e slip yoke with 1350 u joint on one end, other end is 1310 u joint to adapt to stock r200. You will need an adapter flange from JTR to convert to a 1310 u joint.
Diff - Stock R200 with 280zx turbo cvs. I also welded the diff for a short term traction fix.
Oil Pan - Jegs 50228K2 Street and Strip LS swap oil pan. This low profile pan needed to clear the steering rack it comes with a remote filter but you have room for a pan with an integrated filter if you can get the clearance on the steering rack.
Mounts - JTR 280zx V8 kit w/ trans mount. You will also need to get SBC to LS adapters. I used ICT Billet adapters and they work great.
Fuel - Currently a Walbro 255 inline pump. I used 5/16 hose barbs to adapt to the stock lines. From the hardline up to the intake i used 5/16 to -6an compression fittings.
Intake - LS1 intake. Truck intake is too tall to clear hood. I used aftermarket fuel rails and some 42lb injectors. -6an fuel line. Stock truck cable throttle body.
Throttle cable - Lokar LS throttle cable. You can adapt this to the stock pedal and firewall fairly easily.
Valve springs - PAC 1218 springs. Research tells me that the valve can float under boost/high rpm if you don't upgrade springs.
Accessories - I used a 5th gen camaro water pump because it has better outlet/inlet locations for me. 5th gens/trucks share the same accessory spacing. I also used a low mount alternator relocation bracket. No power steering or AC.
Cooling system - universal griffin radiator. I cant remember dimensions but I can measure if needed. Taurus 2 speed cooling fan modified to fit my radiator. I used a universal flexible radiator hose kit and its holding up so far.
Timing cover - Motion raceworks gen 3 LS turbo timing cover. It has a -10an fitting welded in for the turbo oil drain.
Harmonic balancer - ATP 20% underdrive pulley. I needed this to clear the timing cover drain. I recommend looking into crank pinning kits for LS engines if you are replacing the balancer.
Manifolds - Stock truck manifolds with 2.5" v-bands welded on.
Hotside - 2.5" stainless piping. I used a universal kit and made everything myself. T4 flange for the turbo. VSR 44mm wastegate. 3" stainless downpipe.
Cold side - 2.5" piping with no name BOV and intercooler. I chose to place my IAT sensor in the piping before the throttle body.
Turbo - ON3 perfromance 7875 (same as VSR 7875 i believe). Some people use Ebay GT45s also.
Turbo Oil - -10an drain to timing cover. -4 and feed from a port on the drives side of the block towards the back of the engine. Its down low near where your oil filter would be.
Coils - Stock truck coils. I used ICT billet relocation brackets and placed the coils on the frame rails because I was nervous about melting coils/plug wires in the stock locations.
ECU/PCM - I used the stock PCM and converted the stock harness to be standalone. I HIGHLY recommend taking a look at LT1swap.com for instructions on this. Awesome info on that site. I also decided to run completely open loop for now and delete all stock O2 sensors. Tuned using HPtuners.
Notes on the swap:
I decided to cut out the radiator support and angle all of the coolers forward just to give myself more room for the turbo. I haven't come up with a plan for bracing that back up yet but I'll get to it eventually.
I would highly recommend relocating the battery to the trunk to save on engine space and save the battery from heat. I moved my battery to the spare tire well and it fits perfect there.
The stock transmission mount is cut out and removed. I drilled holes in the trans tunnel and bolted the JTR kit straight to the tunnel. It seems to be holding up well with no noticeable flex.
I also recommend removing ALL unnecessary stock wiring that you can. You will save yourself so much heartache and engine bay space if you do this. Plus, you are going to have the engine out anyways so there's no better time do do it.
I did end up cleaning up my mess of wires in the stock battery location. It doesn't look so mangled now.
The trans tunnel takes a bit of "motivation" to get the 4l80 to fit. Nothing a hammer cant do thought. Space is most needed around the electrical connectors and the cooler fittings. Some work around the bell housing bolts is good too.
Car runs very well right now on 8psi. I have maxed out my 42lb injectors and possibly the pump. Research tells me that it should be around 450whp and that is plenty to boil off the stock size 205s in second.
I will try and add more info as I can and answer questions as much as possible.